Big power on built mark viii block?

[minimarine09]

Ok, I have a couple questions,

so I've done a bunch of research and I'm hearing allot of contradicting information. I'm new to the modular game so bare with me. I'm planning on purchasing a Lincoln mark viii block and throwing some Forged rods/ pistons in it . Goal would be 700whp +

From what I gather, the major plus is the teksid block. The cast crank doesn't seem like it would be up to my power goal task (am I wrong?) , so I was thinking a cobra crank would suffice.( Would that just be a drop in ordeal?)

After machining the block, assembly, etc... Would our heads just bolt right on? Oil Galleys/ coolant passages all line up? / motor mount differences? Oil pan clearance issues? Transmission mounting issues?

I'm probably forgetting some questions, but looking forward to hearing from you guys! Thanks!

[minimarine09]

I'm currently running a D1sc Procharger, if you are wondering

[FordNut]

Stock block and crank will be ok. Teksid will work also. Weaknesses are stock rods and pistons in both.
I loved the power from the D1SC.

[minimarine09]

Stock block and crank will be ok. Teksid will work also. Weaknesses are stock rods and pistons in both.
I loved the power from the D1SC.

Nice! My plans are to build a motor on the side, so might as well get a mark xiii short block. would everything be a straight up bolt on affair? (with my current heads, motor mounts, etc...) Or would I have to change anything? You don't think 700-800hp would be pushing it for the cast crank?

[Mr. Man]

Good read about the blocks

http://www.mre-books.com/sa82/sa82_1.html

[FordNut]

Nice! My plans are to build a motor on the side, so might as well get a mark xiii short block. would everything be a straight up bolt on affair? (with my current heads, motor mounts, etc...) Or would I have to change anything? You don't think 700-800hp would be pushing it for the cast crank?

There are minor differences. Knock sensor mounting, early vs late crank trigger ring, maybe the cam chain tensioners and pivot pins.

I think a forged crank will have the 8 bolt flywheel so you would need to find a flex plate. If you can find a forged crank cheap it won't hurt anything, but the cast crank will be ok too.

[MOTOWN]

I would not attempt to push a cast crank past 600 at the wheels, 700 rwhp on a cast crank will be on borrowed time.

[minimarine09]

There are minor differences. Knock sensor mounting, early vs late crank trigger ring, maybe the cam chain tensioners and pivot pins.

I think a forged crank will have the 8 bolt flywheel so you would need to find a flex plate. If you can find a forged crank cheap it won't hurt anything, but the cast crank will be ok too.

So besides the flywheel /flex plate, any connectors would be the same, no issues with crank position sensing since differences in the trigger plate?

I would not attempt to push a cast crank past 600 at the wheels, 700 rwhp on a cast crank will be on borrowed time.

^^^ that's what I mean, contradicting, I hear that the crank would be fine, then I hear that it may explode. Is there any proof to either side?

[Bradley G]

i understood the threshold for the OEM cast crank is @600 RWHP.
I had the car down three years til I got it back together.
all I can say is trust no one here !

[Bradley G]

i understood the threshold for the OEM cast crank is @600 RWHP.
I had the car down three years til I got it back together.
all I can say is trust no one here !
If I had it to do over , I could have bought brand new instead of dragging my ass all over to get misrepresented garbage.

[SGT_MERC]

The biggest problem with a cast crank, in my opinion, is the flex on the snout you'll have with driving the supercharger. Even with the forged crank, some guys, like myself, will stay with the caged lower pulley. I'm not sure how the belt/belts run with a centri. I'm sure there are other weak points with a cast crank, but the flex on the crank snout is the one I read about the most from the cobra guys, when having crank failures, when going with a bigger roots style blower

[minimarine09]

What about the heads? I was reading the b heads are better for boost while our heads ( c heads) are better for low end / mid range n/a. Any input on that?

[minimarine09]

Ok so block wise, I've pretty much made up my mind, I'll go with a teksid block, cobra crank, eagle rods, and around 10:1 Cp, diamond, Wiseco, ect. Pistons. With arp head and main studs I figure the bottom end will be bullet proof.

[F1erceK]

It will work fine. Skip the knock sensor its a waste of time. I obsessed over it for a short period, glad I didn't let it cost me any money. One of the motor mount locations will need some aluminum removed in order for one of the mounts to bolt on properly, I don't recall which side. You can use either the marauder crank gears and timing sensor sprocket, or the set from the mark8, you cannot mix them - you will see why when compared. Feel free to PM me if you need.

[Chayton]

So besides the flywheel /flex plate, any connectors would be the same, no issues with crank position sensing since differences in the trigger plate?




^^^ that's what I mean, contradicting, I hear that the crank would be fine, then I hear that it may explode. Is there any proof to either side?

put it like this.... I have a forged, 8 bolt crank in my NA marauder. So theres no reason why you shouldnt have one either.