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Thread: Want to run the MM in the 1/4 soon. Need advice

  1. #16
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    Well, mine being a DTR....... it's slow, runs solid 16's, but it's consistent.
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  2. #17
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    Got a chance to drive my car yesterday. I tried launching it off idle, 12-1500 rpm, and braking it until the tires almost break traction. 12-1500 rpm was the best. Therefore that's what I'm going to try when I make it to the drag strip. Thanks guys!!!
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  3. #18
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    Should I let any air out my rear tires? I have widened wheels with 295's. I usually have 35 psi in them
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  4. #19
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    Drop em down to 18psl
    04 MERCURY MARAUDER build date:02/11/04
    ITS ALIVE !!!!!!!!

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    **WHIPPLE 4.0L CRUSHER!**0000 (FOR NOW) RWHP

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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBeezy View Post
    Should I let any air out my rear tires? I have widened wheels with 295's. I usually have 35 psi in them
    What make and model tires?
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
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  6. #21
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    Do not drop the pressures much on a street radial tire. And only do a light burnout to clean off the tires.
    Neil
    2003 Mercury Marauder - DBP/DC
    2003 Mercury Marauder - BLK/DC
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8UWITH6 View Post
    Do not drop the pressures much on a street radial tire. And only do a light burnout to clean off the tires.
    That will never work on a Centrifugal car.
    04 MERCURY MARAUDER build date:02/11/04
    ITS ALIVE !!!!!!!!

    STAY TUNED!!!!!!!!!!

    **WHIPPLE 4.0L CRUSHER!**0000 (FOR NOW) RWHP

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  8. #23
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    Hankook Ventus or something like that.
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  9. #24
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    A street tire at Steele with 0 track prep is not going to make you happy!
    The track is WORSE than a damp road in the left lane and only slightly better in the right.
    is crazy there on street tires.
    You were there the last time I was. The tight converter will most likely help, but still........

    Chris Stewart
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  10. #25
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    Yea, but I'm thinking being lower on power than you are will actually help. My car doesn't blow the tires away on the street at all. Launching from 12-1500 rpm chirps them a little on take off

    Oh and that left lane is crap. They drug the track for 15 min the last time I was there and the mustang spun bad afterwards.

    Actually here's that run. 1st run it went 11.62 at 116 with a 1.59 60' in the right lane. Same type of burnout on M/T drag radials

    https://youtu.be/tdMNvkr-MQY
    Last edited by JBeezy; 11-08-2015 at 07:30 PM.
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOTOWN View Post
    That will never work on a Centrifugal car.

    I am struggling to understand why the type of power adder has anything to do with a preparation for launch technique? Letting air out of a radial tire reduces the contact patch with the pavement and the sidewall construction is not designed to wrinkle. And doing a huge burnout makes radial tires grip worse as the rubber compound is different than you traditional racing slick or drag radial.

    I guess in short I should have stated that it is pointless to try and launch a decently powered car on street tires and expect good results. :-)
    Neil
    2003 Mercury Marauder - DBP/DC
    2003 Mercury Marauder - BLK/DC
    2003 Mercury Marauder - SB/LF
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    1964 Mercury Marauder - BLK/BLK

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8UWITH6 View Post
    I am struggling to understand why the type of power adder has anything to do with a preparation for launch technique? Letting air out of a radial tire reduces the contact patch with the pavement and the sidewall construction is not designed to wrinkle. And doing a huge burnout makes radial tires grip worse as the rubber compound is different than you traditional racing slick or drag radial.

    I guess in short I should have stated that it is pointless to try and launch a decently powered car on street tires and expect good results. :-)
    I agree attempting to launch a S/C car on street radials isn't going to work well, however neither will launching that same car with a "light " burnout achieve anything other than the car falling flat on its face , and dropping tire pressure to 18psl will not decrease the contact patch it will increase it (did this for years street racing).

    The main thing that will hurt his et is the lack of a stall speed converter, a Centrifugal car needs to spool up to get a 60ft which will make or break a good et if the power is there , and the type of power adder has a lot to do with the way a car is launched the off the line.
    04 MERCURY MARAUDER build date:02/11/04
    ITS ALIVE !!!!!!!!

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    **WHIPPLE 4.0L CRUSHER!**0000 (FOR NOW) RWHP

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  13. #28
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    Exactly. I've raced for years but always had stick cars. I had no plans of doing any type of long burn out. Maybe spin them over to clean them off. As I said before, it doesn't break the tires lose like these root style blowers (low end torque) on the street. Simply wanted input from other centrifugal guys that has experienced this. As we all know, power is made on up in the rpm's.

    I guess I'll just try out a few things to see what happens. I do have slicks and drag radials I could put on the car but I do still have stock axles.
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBeezy View Post
    Exactly. I've raced for years but always had stick cars. I had no plans of doing any type of long burn out. Maybe spin them over to clean them off. As I said before, it doesn't break the tires lose like these root style blowers (low end torque) on the street. Simply wanted input from other centrifugal guys that has experienced this. As we all know, power is made on up in the rpm's.

    I guess I'll just try out a few things to see what happens. I do have slicks and drag radials I could put on the car but I do still have stock axles.
    At your power level i would use the drag radials which will help, and the 28 splines will be fine ,think a full slick may bog the car down more than it will help, looking forward to your results.
    Last edited by MOTOWN; 11-09-2015 at 10:21 AM.
    04 MERCURY MARAUDER build date:02/11/04
    ITS ALIVE !!!!!!!!

    STAY TUNED!!!!!!!!!!

    **WHIPPLE 4.0L CRUSHER!**0000 (FOR NOW) RWHP

    VISIT MY GARAGE FOR A FULL LIST OF MODS

  15. #30
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    I'll take them with me just in case. Friday it's going down LOL! I have a date with my buddies MKS ecoboost
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

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