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Thread: 3.73 or 4.10 gears

  1. #1
    Visionlink Guest

    3.73 or 4.10 gears

    Today I called our local gear shop to order an upgrade to MM 3.55 gears. After learning from you I requested the 4.10 gears. I was told to upgrade to 3.73...slower out the whole, but it's better for HWY driving and will last longer. That's only one jump from the stock gears. If that's the case why bother? He also mentioned how tedious it is to break in the gears. Requires incremental driving...8 miles, 25 miles, 100 miles etc. and let gears cool after each increment. Comments?

  2. #2
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    Don't know who you are talking to...but...You are right 3.73's is not worth the trouble...don't do it...

    4:10's is the way to go...Alot of us have them...and have no problems...as long as it is installed correctly...pinion depth and backlash is very important to get right...or it will be noisy...

    4:10's will raise your RPM's just a little (non issue)...this puts your motor closer to it's power band, making it a rocket when you stomp on it...It will also lower your mpg's by @ 1...

    Also, there is no break in time for rear gears...Just install / put fluid and friction modifier / and go stomp on it...

    Your comment on the advice given you regarding gear break in, makes me suspicious of that person's experience...I would not use them for my install...Besides, saying that one gear ratio will "last longer" is ridiculous...Bad advice again...In short, Gear ratio has NO influence on longevity...

    Do yourself a favor and take it somewhere else...

    Get a tune (from one of our vendors) and 4:10's you will thanks us later...Trust me ...I did...and I'am still thanking these guys for steering me this way...

    ALOHA

    BTW: My car is an absolute ROCKET...with these mods...


    '03 A Build Date 8/02
    F.I.T. #6 ***RESURRECTED***
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    *SCT Tuned *SCT Big Air 2400 MAF *BAP *GT 40 Fuel Pump *Modified FPDM *SSW Headers *MMX Drive Shaft *Metco Drive Shaft Loop *Metco Control Arms *T/A Stud Girdle w/ Diff Cover *Addco Sway Bars 3,500 Stall B/C Auto. Torque Converter *J-Mod *Wilwood 13" Big Brake Kit *Brembo Drilled/Slotted Rotors (Rear) *Widened Rims w/ 295 Nitto 555 *Autometer Wide Band A/F

    When I turn on my car...It returns the favor

  3. #3
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    Break in?

    I have never heard of that in my life. That means every new car coming off the production line has to be broken in...NOT

    Go somewhere else...this guys is on drugs.

    PROCHARGER SUPERCHARGER FROM F.I.T. # 007
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  4. #4
    Visionlink Guest

    Thanks for the real info.

    My bad. I just did a search on gears and found a massive amount of info. Sorry to waste your time. Your search engine is the bomb. I will order the 4.10s and no break in required....man that guy sound like he knew what's up. Came recommended. Anyway, you guys are what car ownership should be all about...what a team. Thanks again.

  5. #5
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    Go with 4.10's. I don't know what this guy is talking about.
    former owner - Extreme Procharger Marauder
    2004 Silver Birch - Built 01-08-04 - Pur. 07-03-04
    "Proud Member of Sunshine State Marauder's"

    Extreme Procharger Bullitt Completed - still on the hunt for another 04 Marauder to build

  6. #6
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    If you don't do much highway, and don't give a rat's @#$ about gas, I'd even go with 4.56s.

    4.10s raise RPM 15%, 4.56s 28%.

    fastcar

  7. #7
    Make sure that the flange that the drive shaft connects to the rear is as close to perfectly round or else you will have vibration/noise.

    I expereiced that this week at Dennis' shop. He fixed same.

  8. #8
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    There is a break in but nothing like was mentioned. For the first 500 miles you should avoid WOT starts so the gears can get a wear pattern.
    After that you can do what you want with them.

    2003
    MERCURY MARAUDER 300A

    Build Date
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    450 RWHP & 405 RWTQ on 93 octane
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    Visit my Garage
    Blackened300a's Garage



  9. #9
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    Find a speed shop that the Mustang guys go to. They will be good at changing out gears, because they do it almost daily. That's what I did, and I was totally happy with their work.

    If they are good, they will suggest a break in period. It seems like a long time, but is the right thing to do. And yes. . . go with 4:10s.

    After that. . . . . . . enjoy!

    John
    (oldekid)
    2004 DTR MM (Reba)
    Build Date: 05/25/2004
    # 3020 of 3213
    # 931 of 981 DTRs

  10. #10
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    Back in the day when I put Richmond 4.57's in my Mopar there was an initial brake in (in the instructions) with the rear tires off the ground for like 30 or 40 minutes in drive at idle, then let cool down for I think about an hour. I followed the instructions, and never had a problem with them even with me beating the snots out of the car.

    '98 MGM LS...sold..................... .............................. ..'03 300A...sold 6/17

  11. #11
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    I went easy on them for 1 tank of gas, then started racing them. Nary a whisper, or whine... I would'nt worry about the heat up, cool down every 10 miles or whatever some say. Just don't beat on them for the first 300 miles, and you'll be fine.

    Also no vibration at 136 MPH, even with stock driveshaft.

    fastcar

  12. #12
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    I must have been lucky, twice...Did smokey burn outs right out the shop...with the Bronco...all the way home...4 tire burn outs on dry pavement and 10 ft rooster tails in the sand all day long the next day...Nothing...smooth...quiet ...Still throwing 10ft rooster tails without a peep from both axles...been in for @ 5 years now...Love the sound of a 4 wheel burn out...Just can't be matched...

    With the MM...Stomped on it right out of the shop also...Went WOT from start at the next corner...did that every day after that...not a peep...been in for a year now...just beautiful...

    I probably put a wear pattern down in @ 20 minutes...the way I was beating on it...LOL

    ALOHA

    BTW: Still working on posting up pic's of the Bronco...This computer stuff is TRIPPY...LOL
    Last edited by Local Boy; 09-01-2007 at 08:55 PM.


    '03 A Build Date 8/02
    F.I.T. #6 ***RESURRECTED***
    *444 RWHP / 401 RWTQ
    *10 lbs. Boost
    *P1SC1 ProCharger
    *SCT Tuned *SCT Big Air 2400 MAF *BAP *GT 40 Fuel Pump *Modified FPDM *SSW Headers *MMX Drive Shaft *Metco Drive Shaft Loop *Metco Control Arms *T/A Stud Girdle w/ Diff Cover *Addco Sway Bars 3,500 Stall B/C Auto. Torque Converter *J-Mod *Wilwood 13" Big Brake Kit *Brembo Drilled/Slotted Rotors (Rear) *Widened Rims w/ 295 Nitto 555 *Autometer Wide Band A/F

    When I turn on my car...It returns the favor

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Local Boy View Post
    I must have been lucky...Did smokey burn outs right out the shop...with the Bronco...all the way home...4 tire burn outs on dry pavement and 10 ft rooster tails in the sand all day long the next day...Nothing...smooth...quiet ...Still throwing 10ft rooster tails without a peep from both axles...been in for @ 5 years now...Love the sound of a 4 wheel burn out...Just can't be matched...

    ALOHA
    They would have to be making alot of noise to hear over the tire hum I assume

    '98 MGM LS...sold..................... .............................. ..'03 300A...sold 6/17

  14. #14
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    Call another shop he is full of crap or an idiot or both.

    I have over 85K on 4:10 and over 180 runs.
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