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Thread: Removing the "flags" for alignment

  1. #1
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    Removing the "flags" for alignment

    I checked out these flags, It seems like if I just run the lower bolt all the way out, then drop the flag, put the bolt back.
    THEN I can properly get to the carfixer specs.

    Correct?


    Also does anyone know, is it metric (a 24MM and a 21MM)
    or is it standard 13/16th? and 7/8th?

    Im going to do my own alignment monday if I can properly figure out how to remove the flags.

    I got some auto crossing to do in a couple weeks and I need an alignment.
    Last edited by Black_Noise; 07-18-2009 at 09:24 AM.

  2. #2
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    You don't want to remove the bolts with the shocks/springs still in place, it's best to knock them out with a air hammer.
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  3. #3
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    I dont see why, I would think lifted on a hoist they tension would be minimal if any on the lower control arm, and that maybe the bushing would even keep them somewhat in place.

    And if that is the case why no bend most of the flag out of the way and they cut it off.

  4. #4
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    bump for more info........

  5. #5
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    Its about time for me to do this toooooooo....good timing Black Noise...my front spring are coming out for alittle cut cut tho so i guess I won't have any tension on the lower control tho....
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  6. #6
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    On the lift, we tried to take out those bolts but there isn't enough clearance because they are long. We even tried taking loose the steering rack for clearance - no go. We finally decided to burn them off with a torch.
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  7. #7
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    Even with the car up on a hoist the coil spring is still compressed under hundreds of pounds of force and taking the pivot bolt out is not a good idea! The rear LCA bushing bolt is still there and may hold the spring still in place but why chance it. It is not hard to take the flag off! I took one side off in my apartment complex garage with a hand file, cold chisel, and mini sledge.

    How are you planning on doing your own alignment? I have done my own alignments with a digital level, some stand-off bushings I made so that the level is touching off of the wheel face and not the tire, and then I make two strings parallel to the vehicle centerline and align off of that. Using linoleum tiles with grease in between makes float plates with no resistance to camber change so you can adjust camber accurately on the ground.

    Caster is what is going to be tough to measure, and it may need to be adjusted after you start messing w/ camber. You can turn the wheels a known amount by making degree marks on the floor, referenced from the float plates turning, and figure the change in camber relative to the change in turning angle. But if you don't have a floor that is perfectly level side to side and front to rear, you are going to need to correct your camber readings to zero at multiple points.
    Last edited by Stranger in the Black Sedan; 07-20-2009 at 11:04 AM.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by VicsEvilBrother View Post
    Even with the car up on a hoist the coil spring is still compressed under hundreds of pounds of force and taking the pivot bolt out is not a good idea! The rear LCA bushing bolt is still there and may hold the spring still in place but why chance it. It is not hard to take the flag off! I took one side off in my apartment complex garage with a hand file, cold chisel, and mini sledge.
    Did you record it, like when you changed the tire in your living room then aired it up by filling it with gas and setting it on fire?


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  9. #9
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    Ha, no I have a machine for that, I don't need to do trucker-style tire changes, thankfully. I would blow myself up that-a-way.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by VicsEvilBrother View Post
    Ha, no I have a machine for that, I don't need to do trucker-style tire changes, thankfully. I would blow myself up that-a-way.
    Yeah I kno, that video is just mind boggling to me for some reason. The mention of a tire change makes me think of that now. I mean seriously, who thinks of stuff like that?


    ~But, it makes it a lot easier when he is manscaped.~ Haggis
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  11. #11
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    Truckers. Knights of the Road.
    Steve H., Charles County, MD www.carfap.com
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black_Noise View Post
    bump for more info........
    I had mine removed at the alignment shop on a lift. All we had to do to remove the bolt was to pull the tie rod shaft boot back to get enough clearance to slide the bolt and flag out. Then hammered off the flag and reinstalled the bolt, and then tie wrapped the boot back securely.

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