Pulling the Engine & Transmission out the Bottom

[FF1077]

The pre luber lets you run oil through the engine before you start it.

[Hadamustang1]

Originally Posted by FF1077

The pre luber lets you run oil through the engine before you start it.

again.. bummer.. I guess it just ran the oil right out of the engine.. Good luck on the rebuild..

[99SVT]

Pull it all out the top in one go if you can. It'll save a lot of fiddling with starter bolts and torque convertor/bellhousing bolts.

Make sure you have a shop crane that'll go high and reach far enough and a sling with a leveling bar. You'll have piles of room if you pull the cowl and radiator. The hardest part will be removing the trans crossmember.

[FF1077]

Originally Posted by 99SVT

The hardest part will be removing the trans crossmember.

I was looking at that crossmember. It appears that the emergency brake cable goes through a bracket that is part of the cross member. Is that right?
Im wondering if I have to unhook the cable or if I can just let it hang there.

[03sport007]

Originally Posted by FF1077

I was looking at that crossmember. It appears that the emergency brake cable goes through a bracket that is part of the cross member. Is that right?
Im wondering if I have to unhook the cable or if I can just let it hang there.

I just let mine hang there. Really wasn't that difficult. The hardest part was removing the crossmember itself. I used a tire iron and spent about 30min wiggling it out. The nuts are welded on so remove the bolts. I left one bolt in so it would piviot or swing down. Do a search over CVN there is more info on removing the crossmember. It really wasn't that bad. Good luck!!!!

I don't mean to add insult to injury but it's ironic that the very thing that caused your engine failure was designed to pro-long it. Again that just sucks. Sorry.

[FF1077]

Originally Posted by 03sport007

I just let mine hang there. Really wasn't that difficult. The hardest part was removing the crossmember itself. I used a tire iron and spent about 30min wiggling it out. The nuts are welded on so remove the bolts. I left one bolt in so it would piviot or swing down. Do a search over CVN there is more info on removing the crossmember. It really wasn't that bad. Good luck!!!!

I don't mean to add insult to injury but it's ironic that the very thing that caused your engine failure was designed to pro-long it. Again that just sucks. Sorry.

Im still waiting from my membership to be approved over at CVN.
Letting the crossmember pivot off that last bolt is a great idea.

Yeah the best part is when the company the makes the system was contacted they blamed me for the failure. The kit has a lifetime warranty, which is very vauge and it ultimetly comes down to the warranty is on the kit only. They even tried to tell me the kit is not meant to be used on a daily driver.
There are two problems with that;
A. My car has 35K miles and the kits been on there for six years.
B. Their own website advertises the kit for use on Farm Equipment.

They dont want to come out and accept any liablity and I can get that. Someone may come back and say you need to buy me a new $10K motor.
They havent even offered to replace the kit. I am going to contact them one more time and if they dont honor their warranty I am going to let everyone I know on the Comet, Merkur, Mustang, SVO, and Marauder sites to watch out for these people.

[03sport007]

Not sure what you are planning on using for a transmission jack but this worked well for me.



Its a rotor from an Audi A6. The hump from our transmission fits perfectly and there is a enough surface area to balance the transmission. When are you making the transplant?

[FF1077]

So I worked on the car this weekend.
It was decided to take the engine out first and then the transmission to save doing any damage to the car.

I am stuck at the starter. I can’t get the top bolt out. With the Kooks I can barely get my hand in there. I was able to get a 10mm wrench on it but I didn’t have enough room to turn it. I’m wondering if I need to take the header off, but looking at it the middle two nuts for that are virtually hidden. So I don’t know if that’s a great idea.

I’m thinking that maybe I need to get some universals to reach the top starter bolt?
What did you use to get that bolt out?
Can I run the starter without that top bolt?

[RacerX]

It's a beotch, but, I've done it a few times. Just this past Saturday actually. Just pulled my engine again. I use a 10mm socket on a universal swivel on a 6" extension. It's real tricky, but, it can be done. Don't run it with just two. The two easy bolts are on the same side and you're asking for trouble.

[99SVT]

Same here, I just put my starter in this weekend while reinstalling the transmission. Just use a 1/4" drive 6" extension from the front of the starter, you might have to disconnect the trans cooler line bracket just behind the motor mount and bend it out of the way to make some room in there. When I pull the motor I just tie the starter to the header so it doesn't fall out, then remove it while everything is out of the car.

[babbage]

Originally Posted by FF1077

I am stuck at the starter. I can’t get the top bolt out. With the Kooks I can barely get my hand in there. I was able to get a 10mm wrench on it but I didn’t have enough room to turn it.

I used a 10mm gear wrench, (with the head that pivots) that way you can do 60 1/4 turns and get it out. Or use a swivel/wobble extension that lets you go plus or minus 15 degrees like Racerx said

[massacre]

I gotta say, with no A/C compressor it's pretty easy to get to that bolt on my car lol.

[FF1077]

I take it that these are all on cars with LT headers?

[99SVT]

Originally Posted by FF1077

I take it that these are all on cars with LT headers?

Correct, mostly those with Kooks, as the SW headers have a bit more room around the starter.

[justbob]

Originally Posted by 99SVT

Correct, mostly those with Kooks, as the SW headers have a bit more room around the starter.

I have PLENTY of room with my MAC's!