View Full Version : Best water pump for marauder
95chickn
07-05-2016, 08:41 AM
Im looking for good water pump for marauder. Anything other than that Autozone Duralast crap. Also a radiator. The radiator on ebay seem to had good reviews so i was gone buy 1 around 50$. Anybody have any experience with ebay radiators?
RF Overlord
07-05-2016, 08:57 AM
Stewart (http://www.stewartcomponents.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=81) water pump or the OEM Cobra. No clue on radiators, but don't cheap out. Overheating aluminium heads is a big no-no.
fastblackmerc
07-05-2016, 11:45 AM
OEM or Stewart for the water pump.
$50.00 from a radiator from eBay, that made me laugh.......... no way I'd even buy it!!!! :eek: :shake: :shake:
MOTOWN
07-05-2016, 12:11 PM
I would buy oem, I don't see where stewart has proven to be any better.
03Merc
07-05-2016, 01:34 PM
eBay radiators? Confused.
#1618 of 3214
lifespeed
07-05-2016, 01:41 PM
Im looking for good water pump for marauder. Anything other than that Autozone Duralast crap. Also a radiator. The radiator on ebay seem to had good reviews so i was gone buy 1 around 50$. Anybody have any experience with ebay radiators?
Don't gamble a $5K (or more!) engine on a $50 radiator. I used the EMP Stewart water pump, but I am sure Ford is fine. If you're looking to save money and still get decent parts buy OEM from Tasca Ford.
Marauderjack
07-05-2016, 02:13 PM
I would buy oem, I don't see where stewart has proven to be any better.
^^^This!!^^^:beer:
justbob
07-05-2016, 03:01 PM
I like to use local radiator shops.
Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk
Blackened300a
07-05-2016, 04:09 PM
I would buy oem, I don't see where stewart has proven to be any better.
8 years and counting on my EMP pump.
Turbov6Bryan
07-05-2016, 04:18 PM
I like to use local radiator shops.
Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk
We're in the throw it away generation when it breaks vs. refurbish or repair it
Just spent 3 hours aircraft stripping a painted hand rail and boiling brass to make them new again. Out $15.00 vs. 100.00
justbob
07-05-2016, 06:54 PM
I'm old school. [emoji6]
You want a chuckle? Go ask your local auto part guy for a starter or alternator rebuild kit. Better yet, ask for points and a condenser..
Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk
ShadyLurker
07-05-2016, 07:23 PM
I'm old school. [emoji6]
You want a chuckle? Go ask your local auto part guy for a starter or alternator rebuild kit. Better yet, ask for points and a condenser..
Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk
Ha. I needed a new battery for my boat. I asked where the blue top Optimas were. He starts tapping away on his computer and asked me what kind of vehicle its for.
babbage
07-06-2016, 03:50 PM
^^^This!!^^^:beer:
emp stewart is slightly better, there was a huge discussion about 5 years ago. Emp claimed 3 hp gain over stock
Turbov6Bryan
07-06-2016, 04:21 PM
I'm old school. [emoji6]
You want a chuckle? Go ask your local auto part guy for a starter or alternator rebuild kit. Better yet, ask for points and a condenser..
Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk
1967 400 4speed red on red hardtop my dad bought in 1970, still own it, sitting in my garage. Still has points and condenser. Lmao
It's bone stock and 1 repaint
95chickn
07-06-2016, 04:37 PM
Ok im going with emp water pump.... What about radiator? Have it reworked by radiator shop(to keep it oem) or new from part store? Whats the better option
Turbov6Bryan
07-06-2016, 04:41 PM
Ok im going with emp water pump.... What about radiator? Have it reworked by radiator shop(to keep it oem) or new from part store? Whats the better option
Weigh the option of repair vs buying new
95chickn
07-06-2016, 05:31 PM
Weigh the option of repair vs buying new
Im just not sure of quality of Driveworks and carquest (Advance Auto)... I know I can't go wrong with OEM but i know the dealer would probably nail me for a new 1. If I should be fine with autozone or advance parts then ill go that route. Just trying to make sure i make the right decision
RF Overlord
07-06-2016, 06:58 PM
Find a reputable radiator shop and have them fix it properly. Parts store stuff *can* be OK, but for something as important as the radiator, you don't want to take a risk.
Marauderjack
07-07-2016, 02:12 AM
emp stewart is slightly better, there was a huge discussion about 5 years ago. Emp claimed 3 hp gain over stock
My OEM was removed at 140K miles and the nice looking EMP Stewart installed....so far at 126K miles on the EMP pump all I can say is it looked better....zero cooling improvement and 3 HP is undetectable!!:shake:
Serge
07-07-2016, 07:50 AM
OEM replacement.
babbage
07-07-2016, 11:15 AM
OEM replacement.
Hard to argue with logic..
EMP:
There is more swept area on each vane.
The pump uses the block itself as the volute.
There is less mass (apparently) to the impeller.
There is a flow cone from the center of the impeller.
So, if there is more area with less of an angle, there will be the same flow, but with less pressure but requiring less torque. If there's less mass, then, less torque is required. If the block is used as the volute, there is more room for impeller blade area. If there is a flow cone then the impeller better directs the 'suction' through the stator 'area' to the vanes, thus requiring less torque to force the mass of water that has no direction (stock). Torque over time is HP.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35360
lifespeed
07-07-2016, 11:46 AM
We don't have brass radiators like the old days. Aluminum radiators, with rare exception, are not good candidates for repair as they lose material to corrosion. And they have plastic tanks which get more brittle with age. When a radiator shop "repairs" an aluminum radiator they replace the core and put your tanks on it, or vice versa, depending on what is leaking. Makes no sense, buy a new one and forget about it for another 15 years.
I suggest the OP actually look up the price from a discount Ford dealer like Tasca parts or Silver State Ford. I'm not going to do it, don't need a radiator.
Marauderjack
07-07-2016, 03:00 PM
Hard to argue with logic..
EMP:
There is more swept area on each vane.
The pump uses the block itself as the volute.
There is less mass (apparently) to the impeller.
There is a flow cone from the center of the impeller.
So, if there is more area with less of an angle, there will be the same flow, but with less pressure but requiring less torque. If there's less mass, then, less torque is required. If the block is used as the volute, there is more room for impeller blade area. If there is a flow cone then the impeller better directs the 'suction' through the stator 'area' to the vanes, thus requiring less torque to force the mass of water that has no direction (stock). Torque over time is HP.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35360
Still......I've seen NO COOLING ADVANTAGE and with 400 RWHP I really cannot measure 3 HP so once again I think after all this time I will use an OEM replacement when/if the time comes.....sorry!!:cool:
lifespeed
07-07-2016, 03:15 PM
Still......I've seen NO COOLING ADVANTAGE and with 400 RWHP I really cannot measure 3 HP so once again I think after all this time I will use an OEM replacement when/if the time comes.....sorry!!:cool:
Even if it is real, it won't necessarily be obvious. The thermostat sets the minimum coolant temperature, not the water pump and radiator. If you're not exceeding the stock thermal capacity, there will be no difference.
The only time you could see a difference is when the thermal load is greater than the stock cooling system can handle, at which point a bigger radiator and higher-flow pump would maintain the thermostat setpoint under higher engine load.
For a stock car, no towing, the only concern is quality and reliability. No need for added thermal capacity.
Marauderjack
07-08-2016, 02:18 AM
With the EMP pump and new Reische 170* thermostat it takes a little longer to heat up but it runs the exact same temps as it did with OEM thermostat and OEM water pump!!:shake: Yesterday with 89* ambient the coolant temp leveled off at 198* in traffic!!:cool:
The radiator can only remove so much heat and equilibrium is determined mostly by the radiator and ambient temp assuming the rest is functioning well!!:cool:
fastblackmerc
07-08-2016, 04:42 AM
Good discourse on how to improve cooling:
http://reischeperformance.com/tstatinfo.html#anchor
lifespeed
07-08-2016, 10:04 AM
With the EMP pump and new Reische 170* thermostat it takes a little longer to heat up but it runs the exact same temps as it did with OEM thermostat and OEM water pump!!:shake: Yesterday with 89* ambient the coolant temp leveled off at 198* in traffic!!:cool:
The radiator can only remove so much heat and equilibrium is determined mostly by the radiator and ambient temp assuming the rest is functioning well!!:cool:
Radiator, water pump and air flow do indeed set the upper limit. It does sound like you could use a little more capacity. Does it cool off rolling down the highway?
I have to mount a water/air intercooler soon, maintaining airflow through the radiator will be a consideration.
Turbov6Bryan
07-08-2016, 10:19 AM
The airdam that mounts under the core support
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162105677814
It's a little more on tasca
http://www.tascaparts.com/mercury/marauder/3w1z8327aa/2003-year/base-trim/4-6l-v8-gas-engine/body-cat/radiator-support-scat/?part_name=air-deflector
I replaced mine last summer, mine was literally rolled over
Once I got the new piece, I actually thought they sent me the wrong part. It's supposed to be flat, not shaped like a U LOL
Has anyone here replaced their OEM fan with a mark viii fan?
lifespeed
07-08-2016, 10:22 AM
The airdam that mounts under the core support
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162105677814
It's a little more on tasca
http://www.tascaparts.com/mercury/marauder/3w1z8327aa/2003-year/base-trim/4-6l-v8-gas-engine/body-cat/radiator-support-scat/?part_name=air-deflector
I replaced mine last summer, mine was literally rolled over
Once I got the new piece, I actually thought they sent me the wrong part. It's supposed to be flat, not shaped like a U LOL
Has anyone here replaced their OEM fan with a mark viii fan?
LOL, really, it isn't supposed to be U-shaped? I got mine in 2007 and it has always looked like that. Good post!
Marauderjack
07-08-2016, 10:29 AM
Radiator, water pump and air flow do indeed set the upper limit. It does sound like you could use a little more capacity. Does it cool off rolling down the highway?
I have to mount a water/air intercooler soon, maintaining airflow through the radiator will be a consideration.
The only time I see any significant cool down is when I turn the AC off...been that way since 2005 after the ProCharger install!!:cool:
Turbov6Bryan
07-08-2016, 10:30 AM
LOL, really, it isn't supposed to be U-shaped? I got mine in 2007 and it has always looked like that. Good post!
Cheap price on a ford part if you ask me
Tasca has it listed on eBay too, I find it cheaper to buy from tasca on eBay rather than buying it from their website
Correct, it's not supposed to be in the shape of a taco
Crazy eh?
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.