P0190 and Stutter

[robertmee]

Twice now in the space of about a month, when the car is idling for 10 minutes or so (picking kid up from school), it will begin to shake/sputter and cut-off. It takes several times to crank before it will catch, and then it seems to run fine. This last time, it threw a P0190 code. I've read several past threads and there seems to be a split in opinion. Some say the P0190 code is simply a diagnostic of the sensor itself and the sensor needs replacing. Others say it could be telling me there's actually a fuel delivery problem. Given that the car stutter and cut-off, I'm going with the latter, assuming that a failed sensor doesn't cause fuel starvation.

So, am I correct in my assumption and need to be looking at fuel delivery? This pump is less than 2 years old as are most parts on the engine because I threw a rod a couple of years ago and had a new forged rebuild done. Car has ran fine up until now. I suppose I should start with a new fuel filter and go from there? I do have an OBDII gauge logger...can't remember if fuel pressure is communicated, but after the fuel filter and assuming PSI is ok, then what?

For now, I cleared the code, and car seems to run fine. It is 100 degrees here, but the coolant never exceeded 180. Can the heat cause some kind of vapor lock on these setups?

[fastblackmerc]

Twice now in the space of about a month, when the car is idling for 10 minutes or so (picking kid up from school), it will begin to shake/sputter and cut-off. It takes several times to crank before it will catch, and then it seems to run fine. This last time, it threw a P0190 code. I've read several past threads and there seems to be a split in opinion. Some say the P0190 code is simply a diagnostic of the sensor itself and the sensor needs replacing. Others say it could be telling me there's actually a fuel delivery problem. Given that the car stutter and cut-off, I'm going with the latter, assuming that a failed sensor doesn't cause fuel starvation.

So, am I correct in my assumption and need to be looking at fuel delivery? This pump is less than 2 years old as are most parts on the engine because I threw a rod a couple of years ago and had a new forged rebuild done. Car has ran fine up until now. I suppose I should start with a new fuel filter and go from there? I do have an OBDII gauge logger...can't remember if fuel pressure is communicated, but after the fuel filter and assuming PSI is ok, then what?

For now, I cleared the code, and car seems to run fine. It is 100 degrees here, but the coolant never exceeded 180. Can the heat cause some kind of vapor lock on these setups?

I'd replace the fuel rail pressure sensor. I assume your forced induction setup still
uses one.

RockAuto.com has them. Two allen head screws and a vacuum hose.

[Pat]

You can replace the sensor, easy but pricey now, $88.00 at rock auto.

Pull the vacuum hose and smell check for gasoline. If you smell/see gas the sensor is bad.

Then do a fuel pump pressure test.

Maybe your fuel pump has gone south. Not unusual for after market pumps to be short lived and act erratically.

Regards,

[Marauderman]

I'd replace the fuel rail pressure sensor. I assume your forced induction setup still
uses one.

RockAuto.com has them. Two allen head screws and a vacuum hose.

+1......done 3 on mine...FWIW---but found mine mostly due to idle sitting and gas going bad or ruff--eliminate that idle use and no further problems----

[Turbov6Bryan]

You can replace the sensor, easy but pricey now, $88.00 at rock auto.

Pull the vacuum hose and smell check for gasoline. If you smell/see gas the sensor is bad.

Then do a fuel pump pressure test.

Maybe your fuel pump has gone south. Not unusual for after market pumps to be short lived and act erratically.

Regards,

^----- THIS

Do some diagnostics before throwing parts at it

FYI I had a friend here where the car would not start when hot, had to let it sit, it was the pump

Put a gauge on the car, check what pat said.

Let us know

[justbob]

When mine used to shut down in the heat it was caused by the FPDM.

Data log your fuel pressure. It should hover around 40. If you see it starting to rise while sitting, all the way up to about 60, then you are about to have a shut down as it will plummet to 20, then 8, then off..

That was my deal. I could easily predict when it was going to fail.




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[robertmee]

Thanks everyone....I'll pull out my laptop and do some logging. And pull the vacuum hose. Will let you know what I find.

[justbob]

I've smelled traces of gas in everyone I've ever checked. You just don't want actual wetness.


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[Mr. Man]

I've smelled traces of gas in everyone I've ever checked. You just don't want actual wetness.


Sent from my iThrone using TapatalkIf I didn't know this thread was about fuel pressure I'd question what it is you do in your spare time.:D

[justbob]

If I didn't know this thread was about fuel pressure I'd question what it is you do in your spare time.:D


LOL! Now that you put it that way....


You should get a copy of my autobiography..


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[Turbov6Bryan]

LOL! Now that you put it that way....


You should get a copy of my autobiography..


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BOB, therefore I am