2007 Taurus drivetrain removal

[kirk]

I assume the easy way to take the engine and trans out of a 2007 Taurus is out the bottom?

Can you get it out from above?

[jay87lx]

Drop the whole subframe, engine still connected. Disconnect, uptop, fuel supply, harness, intake, exhaust etc etc etc. Remove axles, unbolt subrame from body, lift body.

[EMAS]

I assume the easy way to take the engine and trans out of a 2007 Taurus is out the bottom?

Can you get it out from above?


I've not done an 07 but on the older Taurus you can get it out from above. The trick is to unbolt the master cyl from the booster and position it off to the side.

So the easiest way to do it depends on what equipment you have. It also depends on what your goal is, ie is it going back in the car and do you really need both the engine and trans out?

If you have a lift and you actually need both out of the car then lifting the car off of the engine and trans attached to sub frame is the way to go.

If you only need to get the engine out then if it is the Vulcan you can pull it out by itself from above. The key is disconnecting the passenger side trans mount and jacking it up while you lift the engine. That makes the bellhousing tilt back enough so the engine can go straight up and out. You might be able to do the same with the Duratec.

If you have no lift and both really need to come out then you should be able to pull it out the top.

[kirk]

Thanks for the input guys. My daughter's car has a bad spot on the flexplate where the teeth are gone (starting issue). Not sure it's worth paying someone to fix and I have no lift. Just exploring options.

[ctrlraven]

I've got an 08 Taurus, from what I have read it's easier to disconnect and drop down than to lift out in regards to engine and/or trans removal.

With no lift, it will make things a lot harder and take longer.

[EMAS]

Thanks for the input guys. My daughter's car has a bad spot on the flexplate where the teeth are gone (starting issue). Not sure it's worth paying someone to fix and I have no lift. Just exploring options.

If you just have to change the flex plate and it is the Vulcan then pulling the engine and leaving the trans in place is the only way to go. You can probably get away with pulling the Duratec out the top too but I haven't done that. As I mentioned in my previous post if you unbolt the driver's side trans mount and jack it up the top of the bellhousing will tilt back making more than enough room for the flex plate to clear. Personally I would stop as soon as you had access to the bolts, pop the new one on and lower it right back in position. If you've got a hoist or can rent one it is doable in about 4~5 hrs or so if you don't run into any bolts that are rusted in place, or rounded off.

Years ago the only thing I did at the shop I worked at was engine replacements and I did a lot of FWD cars out the top that everyone said had to come out the bottom with the trans attached. I also did a fair number out the top with the trans attached that again were supposedly drop out the bottom only and the time to pull the master cyl was way less than all the things that have to happen to get in out the bottom.

[kirk]

If you just have to change the flex plate and it is the Vulcan then pulling the engine and leaving the trans in place is the only way to go. You can probably get away with pulling the Duratec out the top too but I haven't done that. As I mentioned in my previous post if you unbolt the driver's side trans mount and jack it up the top of the bellhousing will tilt back making more than enough room for the flex plate to clear. Personally I would stop as soon as you had access to the bolts, pop the new one on and lower it right back in position. If you've got a hoist or can rent one it is doable in about 4~5 hrs or so if you don't run into any bolts that are rusted in place, or rounded off.

Years ago the only thing I did at the shop I worked at was engine replacements and I did a lot of FWD cars out the top that everyone said had to come out the bottom with the trans attached. I also did a fair number out the top with the trans attached that again were supposedly drop out the bottom only and the time to pull the master cyl was way less than all the things that have to happen to get in out the bottom.

Thanks again. That helps.

[alec2538]

Not sure if it applies to a Taurus, but I did swap engines between a pair of '06 Fusion's and I found it much easier to remove the front clip, unbolt the two side engine mounts and exhaust, roll restrictor, and I literally slid the entire assembly out the front. Didn't even have to touch the subframe.

I just did this same thing in a '13 Nissan Juke. Factory prodcedure is to drop from the bottom, I removed the front clip and core support (which was bolted in, not welded) and slid the entire assembly out the front. I didn't even need to align it afterwards :)

[BAD MERC]

The 2007 Taurus is just like my 2006. The 2008 was a Ford 500 rebadge. I believe dropping the subframe can be achieved while leaving the struts in the shock towers and hanging the calipers to keep the brake system closed. It's a huge job. Once the battery and airbox are out it will show progress. After the radiator and fan are out you may be able to leave the A/C compressor in the car. The PS pump will have to stay on the motor because pulley removal is an arduous task. I think the steering rack can stay with the car, too. Bust the tie rods loose and leave the input shaft connected. Hang it with ratchet straps against the floorpan.