Brake Install

[Svashtar]

Everything seems to be going out on my '03, so in addition to changing out the broken radio (that old frequency lock problem the dealer swore the new unit installed under warranty didn't have but does), door speaker, WP and tires, I need to do the brakes.

I can't go with the big brake options right now, so going to stick pretty much with the OEM, but upgrade to the Raybestos rotors I see some guys are using. Guess I will also look for some good ceramic pads on Rockauto. For my daily driver / freeway car the standard brake lines are fine.

My question is on the install, which I haven't done on a car in 25 years. I used to just push the pistons back with a c-clamp and siphon off the rising fluid in the master cylinder, then add fluid back in after I got the calipers back on the rotor. Simple, and didn't get any air in the lines. Any problem with that, or should I drain off the fluid at the caliper instead, then bleed off the air?

Also, think I read that the torque on the calipers is 32 ft lbs? Any other torque specs I need to know? Caliper guide pin issues?

Finally, I've never changed out a rotor. I have a run out / concentricity gauge for reloading (Sinclair), but the way it's setup I can't really used it on a brake rotor. I know Summit and others sell those. The rotors I'm getting are supposed to have less than .002 run out, so I'm wondering if you guys check for runout when you install the rotors?

I know to make sure the hub is clean for the backside of the rotor to minimize run out. What I'm a bit unclear on are the caliper brackets, and some of the other brake hardware I'll find in there, which someone suggested I replace as long as I'm doing the rotors and pads.

Finally, what about lube? Any lube behind the pad backing plates where it meets the caliper? Is there a specific grease I should use? Think I just have some synthetic chassis lube on hand...

I know there's another bolt in there in addition to the caliper bolts, but can't recall what it is.

Thanks for any input!

Norm

[Turbov6Bryan]

C clamp? Thats old school. When you pull the wheel off, look at the front pad closest to you.... If you jamb 2 really large screw drivers in between the pad and rotor, then THAT is what will collapse the pistons.

No need to try and use the old pad and a c clamp

Just look at it, put the screw drivers between the rotor and the first pad closest to your chest. Small screw driver first, then get larger ones, and now you have collapsed the pistons. Pull the caliper, install new pads, then tighten down. Check the fluid, is it too full?

Then try the other side.
I suggest pumping the brakes to fully seat the pads before you decide to drive the car. Ive seen a lot of folks try it, and forget to pump the brakes to seat the caliper seals and pistons to the rotor.

pump.... pump em up when your done before driving.

[crouse]

I doubt you'll be able to collapse the pistons enough with a screw driver to get new pads on. Nothing wrong with using a c-clamp.

Once per year, I siphon out as much as I can from the reservoir then open the bleeder on the caliper and let the them drip filling the reservoir as needed making sure not to let the level get too low. This puts new fluid in the lines.

Depending on the pads you select, you typically don't need any lube on the back of the pads. I run a CarboTech AX6 auto-cross pads all year and they squeal like a garbage truck. Nothing I've tried will stop the squeal.

I've had good success with the StopTech slotted rotors from either Tire Rack or Rock Auto. No need for the cryogenic treated rotors. Stay away from drilled rotors. Not needed for typical use.

You'll probably need to beat on the rotors with a BFH to get them off. I put some anti-seize on the inside if the rotor where it meets the hub to keep them from welding together.

Remove the smaller bold that holds the caliper to the bracket then remove the larger bold that holds the bracket to the suspension. Use some Loctite Blue on the larger bolts that hold the bracket on. You don't want them coming loose.

[lji372]

YouTube a video.... please :2thumbs:

[Turbov6Bryan]

I said 2 screw drivers. I do it all the time. I haven't used a c clamp in 15 years


I doubt you'll be able to collapse the pistons enough with a screw driver to get new pads on. Nothing wrong with using a c-clamp.

Once per year, I siphon out as much as I can from the reservoir then open the bleeder on the caliper and let the them drip filling the reservoir as needed making sure not to let the level get too low. This puts new fluid in the lines.

Depending on the pads you select, you typically don't need any lube on the back of the pads. I run a CarboTech AX6 auto-cross pads all year and they squeal like a garbage truck. Nothing I've tried will stop the squeal.

I've had good success with the StopTech slotted rotors from either Tire Rack or Rock Auto. No need for the cryogenic treated rotors. Stay away from drilled rotors. Not needed for typical use.

You'll probably need to beat on the rotors with a BFH to get them off. I put some anti-seize on the inside if the rotor where it meets the hub to keep them from welding together.

Remove the smaller bold that holds the caliper to the bracket then remove the larger bold that holds the bracket to the suspension. Use some Loctite Blue on the larger bolts that hold the bracket on. You don't want them coming loose.

[Turbov6Bryan]

YouTube a video.... please :2thumbs:

Me? 456789

[lji372]

Me? 456789

No, the op

6969

[Turbov6Bryan]

No, the op

6969

Ah. Ok schweet. 77 you get ate more :/

[lji372]

Ah. Ok schweet. 77 you get ate more :/

Reciprocation is key to a healthy relationship :lovies2:

[justbob]

I doubt you'll be able to collapse the pistons enough with a screw driver to get new pads on. Nothing wrong with using a c-clamp.



Once per year, I siphon out as much as I can from the reservoir then open the bleeder on the caliper and let the them drip filling the reservoir as needed making sure not to let the level get too low. This puts new fluid in the lines.



Depending on the pads you select, you typically don't need any lube on the back of the pads. I run a CarboTech AX6 auto-cross pads all year and they squeal like a garbage truck. Nothing I've tried will stop the squeal.



I've had good success with the StopTech slotted rotors from either Tire Rack or Rock Auto. No need for the cryogenic treated rotors. Stay away from drilled rotors. Not needed for typical use.



You'll probably need to beat on the rotors with a BFH to get them off. I put some anti-seize on the inside if the rotor where it meets the hub to keep them from welding together.



Remove the smaller bold that holds the caliper to the bracket then remove the larger bold that holds the bracket to the suspension. Use some Loctite Blue on the larger bolts that hold the bracket on. You don't want them coming loose.



I've only used one screwdriver all my life so don't doubt it.

Stay away from drilled rotors? Why?

Your expensive pads squeal?

You know what's funny? I paid $199.00 on eBay for four drilled/slotted rotors and "house pads" over SEVEN years ago and never a single squeal, nor issue. I finally replaced only the pads two years and simply slapped them on the old rotors and she still stops on a dime! And most here know I use my car to its potential.

Don't believe everything you read.


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[Revue]

Be sure to bed-in/burnish your new pads to the new rotors!

[Svashtar]

Thanks everyone. I got it down to the Raybestos R-300 slotted or the StopTech Centric slotted rotors, and went with the directional Centrics from Rockauto. Still have to get the pads, and like Raybestos there.

Your pads shouldn't squeak. Power Stop recommends putting brake grease behind their pads to stop any squeaking, but I'm not sure if you can get squeaks from elsewhere.

Thanks for the tips, and I'll check out YouTube.


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[Svashtar]

BTW, I'm focused on the rotors and pads; some sites are saying I also need to replace other "hardware" with while I'm in there, but aren't specific.

Please let me know if there are recommendations or sources on other caliper / pad hardware I might need to R&R.

Thanks.


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