Spark plug & coil recommendations ?

[gabriel.barraza]

Looking into doing a tune up to my Marauder soon haven't done it since may when I bought it



2004 silver birch Marauder 115k https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170804/e2cfebb516237c7ae797844a8ac4df 6d.jpg

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[Svashtar]

Can't speak to the coils; I'm still using the OEM ones which seem to be doing OK. (I'd be interested in what people recommend for those when they do have to be replaced, if different from OEM.)

I did just upgrade the plugs though based on Marty's recommendation to NGK 4177's gapped to 0.45".


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[gabriel.barraza]

Can't speak to the coils; I'm still using the OEM ones which seem to be doing OK. (I'd be interested in what people recommend for those when they do have to be replaced, if different from OEM.)

I did just upgrade the plugs though based on Marty's recommendation to NGK 4177's gapped to 0.45".


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAre you all stock

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[RF Overlord]

Marty's recommendation to NGK 4177's gapped to 0.45".^^^ This, although I still use stock gapping for stock cars.

For coils, unless you are currently having misfires or other issues, leave them alone. The stock coils are the best.

If your car has over 25k, don't forget the fuel filter. Motorcraft or NAPA Gold.

[gabriel.barraza]

Ngk 4177 p/n don't show as for a Marauder

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[RF Overlord]

No, it's one step colder. Go with Marty's recommendation.

[Svashtar]

^^^ This, although I still use stock gapping for stock cars.

For coils, unless you are currently having misfires or other issues, leave them alone. The stock coils are the best.

If your car has over 25k, don't forget the fuel filter. Motorcraft or NAPA Gold.


Interesting, I was going to ask Marty about this when I got his tune. I have the Granatelli solid coil connectors and they suggest opening up the plug an additional .03 to .07 for better performance, experimentation required.

I can quickly adjust the gap later if needed; for now it's running better than it has in a couple years, despite the dragging rear.


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[Svashtar]

Are you all stock

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Yes, my car is NA but the older tune I'm running supports cooler plugs and stat.


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[martyo]

Norm stick with the gap I recommended.

[Svashtar]

Norm stick with the gap I recommended.


Will do, thanks Marty.


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[BAD MERC]

Once you get the coil covers off and begin plug replacement remember aluminum is delicate. On a cold engine shoot WD40 down the bores and let it sit a few minutes. Gently turn the spark plug with hand tools back and forth to work the penetrant into the threads. Easy does it. I hate to see the spark plug zipped out and take some threads with them. A little anti seize on the way back in will be cheap insurance. It's actually very simple.

[fastblackmerc]

Once you get the coil covers off and begin plug replacement remember aluminum is delicate. On a cold engine shoot WD40 down the bores and let it sit a few minutes. Gently turn the spark plug with hand tools back and forth to work the penetrant into the threads. Easy does it. I hate to see the spark plug zipped out and take some threads with them. A little anti seize on the way back in will be cheap insurance. It's actually very simple.

Make sure the engine is cold.

Use compressed air to blow out any debris in the bores.

Carefully remove the plugs.

I wouldn't use WD40.

WD40 will wash the anti seize off the threads.

[Svashtar]

Once you get the coil covers off and begin plug replacement remember aluminum is delicate. On a cold engine shoot WD40 down the bores and let it sit a few minutes. Gently turn the spark plug with hand tools back and forth to work the penetrant into the threads. Easy does it. I hate to see the spark plug zipped out and take some threads with them. A little anti seize on the way back in will be cheap insurance. It's actually very simple.


NGK specifically counsels against anti-seize, saying their plugs have a coating on the threads that prevents binding during removal:

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

I took that advice this time, although I'm used to adding a little on at least a few threads. The old Motorcraft plugs came out very easily because of that.

I used air to clean out the holes as FBM mentioned. One trick, after I got the plugs out I noticed some small flakes of junk at the bottom of a couple holes that hadn't fallen into the cylinder, that the air hadn't gotten out. I got a long 1/4" drive extension and coated the end with a dab of dialectric grease and poked down there to pick up the stuff before threading in the plugs.

I cringe when I see the "aluminum is delicate" comment, after the beating I gave the old water pump to get it out of the block...!


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[BAD MERC]

NGK specifically counsels against anti-seize, saying their plugs have a coating on the threads that prevents binding during removal:

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

I took that advice this time, although I'm used to adding a little on at least a few threads. The old Motorcraft plugs came out very easily because of that.

I used air to clean out the holes as FBM mentioned. One trick, after I got the plugs out I noticed some small flakes of junk at the bottom of a couple holes that hadn't fallen into the cylinder, that the air hadn't gotten out. I got a long 1/4" drive extension and coated the end with a dab of dialectric grease and poked down there to pick up the stuff before threading in the plugs.

I cringe when I see the "aluminum is delicate" comment, after the beating I gave the old water pump to get it out of the block...!


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LOL, I guess you can't take the old out of old school no matter how hard you try! It was pucker time when I was a marine mechanic because everything aluminum I touched threatened to strip or break off. Call it being over cautious. Thank you for the correction gentlemen.

[RF Overlord]

Relative to BAD MERC's "aluminum is delicate" remark, he's not wrong if you're talking about the spark plug threads in the heads. Early versions only had 3-4 threads and it was easy to damage them, especially by over-tightening. Later versions got 7 threads and are a little more forgiving, but aluminium heads do require a less ham-fisted approach than the iron heads in my '68 Buick 350.

Regarding the anti-seize admonition, that may be because so many people put on way too much and that can cause problems with torque values...you have to reduce torque input when using anti-seize or you can over-tighten.

[justbob]

Spark plug replacement should not involve this kind of technical, surgical, poking around blowing air down your delicate greasy shaft on the end of a not our problem if it doesn't come out later link.

Seriously over complicating literally the easiest thing there is to do on this car besides checking the tire pressure.


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[guspech750]

Spark plug replacement should not involve this kind of technical, surgical, poking around blowing air down your delicate greasy shaft on the end of a not our problem if it doesn't come out later link.

Seriously over complicating literally the easiest thing there is to do on this car besides checking the tire pressure.


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What else is there to talk about here[emoji57]


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

[RubberCtyRauder]

What else is there to talk about here[emoji57]


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

4.10's, oil and filters, shocks, brakes, tires, tune or not to tune, cost of everything, how cheap can i boost my stock marauder with 189,000 miles on it that makes a noise. bumper covers.....where marauderville could be, but no proposal given..... what crown vic parts are direct swap.

lots of things...lol

[Fastbob]

4.10's, oil and filters, shocks, brakes, tires, tune or not to tune, cost of everything, how cheap can i boost my stock marauder with 189,000 miles on it that makes a noise. bumper covers.....where marauderville could be, but no proposal given..... what crown vic parts are direct swap.

lots of things...lolYou forgot....Do you like my ugly ass wheels?:coolman:

[Dragcity]

What are the best tires for my Marauder? I drive like.....

[tbone]

Spark plug replacement should not involve this kind of technical, surgical, poking around blowing air down your delicate greasy shaft on the end of a not our problem if it doesn't come out later link.

Seriously over complicating literally the easiest thing there is to do on this car besides checking the tire pressure.


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I was thinking this exact same thing. :beer:

[RF Overlord]

You forgot....Do you like my ugly ass wheels?:coolman:Winner winner, chicken dinner.

[ByronRACE]

I don't like platinum plugs; they tend to touch off detonation more easily. I am tuned for 87 octane (myself) and I can run 1-2deg more spark in the peak torque area with a normal autolite plug than with a platinum plug on my engine. Power on 91 octane at the edge of detonation was 247rwhp as measured on a dynojet 248. Power on 87 octane is 245rwhp with about 4deg less spark; no difference. Fuel economy is identical. It's a high mileage daily commuter; I'd rather run soft spark and 87...and I have for over 220K miles. If you're keeping track, that's about $3300 in my pocket so far. I've also optimized shift points, lockup, and so on and average 23mpg on my commute if I keep it under 65mph.

I don't like changing plugs; the aluminum threads don't like that either. So, I don't change them often. In fact, I changed the factory plugs out at 1500 miles and ran them until 100K miles. I gap at .040 to allow for wear due to the long service interval. At 100K miles, the average gap was .051. I changed the plugs again at near 200K miles. Same gap. The threads in my heads have been torqued 3 times in their life. I use a small amount of antiseize. I don't expect any related failures.

To each their own. This is not my performance vehicle.

[Svashtar]

I was thinking this exact same thing. :beer:


I wasn't; knowing torque specs and whether to use anti-seize or not for their brand of plugs isn't technical or complicated info, but is important, especially if someone is seeing it for the first time.


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[Svashtar]

I don't like platinum plugs; they tend to touch off detonation more easily. I am tuned for 87 octane (myself) and I can run 1-2deg more spark in the peak torque area with a normal autolite plug than with a platinum plug on my engine. Power on 91 octane at the edge of detonation was 247rwhp as measured on a dynojet 248. Power on 87 octane is 245rwhp with about 4deg less spark; no difference. Fuel economy is identical. It's a high mileage daily commuter; I'd rather run soft spark and 87...and I have for over 220K miles. If you're keeping track, that's about $3300 in my pocket so far. I've also optimized shift points, lockup, and so on and average 23mpg on my commute if I keep it under 65mph.
I don't like changing plugs; the aluminum threads don't like that either. So, I don't change them often. In fact, I changed the factory plugs out at 1500 miles and ran them until 100K miles. I gap at .040 to allow for wear due to the long service interval. At 100K miles, the average gap was .051. I changed the plugs again at near 200K miles. Same gap. The threads in my heads have been torqued 3 times in their life. I use a small amount of antiseize. I don't expect any related failures.
To each their own. This is not my performance vehicle.


This sounds good, and is a creative solution to use regular octane, but I'd have no idea how to tune for less/more spark with standard plugs, or to change my shift points for that matter. (So, you're running 2deg more spark at peak torque, and 4deg less otherwise?)

Since Ford setup the car for fuel economy, I wonder why they didn't do this at the factory instead of mandating premium in the first place?

I've just changed my plugs 3x as well at 114k, but the last ones came out so easily I'm not too worried about it. I figure I'll be up to only 4-5 torques at 220K, and can't imagine that being an issue.

Averaging 23 MPG is a real accomplishment. [emoji1531]


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[tbone]

I wasn't; knowing torque specs and whether to use anti-seize or not for their brand of plugs isn't technical or complicated info, but is important, especially if someone is seeing it for the first time.


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1. Use the anti seize. Or don't. No one used it in the old days.
2. Don't over tighten.
3. Relax and have a beer.
:beer:

[Svashtar]

1. Use the anti seize. Or don't. No one used it in the old days.

2. Don't over tighten.

3. Relax and have a beer.

:beer:


Well, that works for me; a beer per plug you mean? [emoji41]


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