Looking for "run only" wire in engine compartment

[paparauder]

Hello, I need to install daylight running lights since I am located in Canada.
Vehicle is not prewired for Ford drl module. Talked to dealer and was told that they install aftermarket kits. Got a kit now but cannot locate a "hot on run only" wire somewhere in engine compartment. I rather not splice into engine electical or brake control. Any experience or suggestions?

[Lowndex]

Whomever you are talking to knows less about Marauders, and cars in general, than I do. I am hear to tell you, that is shocking. Don't let this person work on your car.

Depending on the current drain of the leds daytime running lights you chose, the following instructions should be fine.

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+To+Install+Universal+Fit+L ED+Daytime+Running+Lights/35524

[Lowndex]

OMG! I just gave advice how to install something on a Marauder. While I am pleased, could one of you please inspect my advice and ensure I did not misguide the person.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

You could also use a relay that powers on the accessory if over 12 volts detected... hence car is running.

[kirk]

Hello, I need to install daylight running lights since I am located in Canada.
Vehicle is not prewired for Ford drl module. Talked to dealer and was told that they install aftermarket kits. Got a kit now but cannot locate a "hot on run only" wire somewhere in engine compartment. I rather not splice into engine electical or brake control. Any experience or suggestions?

I thought the "auto" function on the headlight switch gave you DRL in a Marauder?

[paparauder]

Thanks for the responses. Both, the installation instructions and the relay require a hot on run wire. I removed the power distribution box at the battery and all accessible wiring there seems to be hot with ignition on, so not suitable for this.
Also auto lights will only work if factory wired for canadian cars.
I would orefer not to run an additional wire from insude through the firewall if avoidable.

[paparauder]

Looking at some of the available wiring diagrams I came across the battery junction box and a central junction box. Anyone knows where to find those?

[mm svt]

Hot with ignition on is fine, when else would you need daylight running lights when the car is off? If you could make it more complicated sounds like you would.

[paparauder]

I prefer to have the lights off with ign on, then have em come on when the car us running.

[paparauder]

But thanks, maybe I will just hook it to hot with ign on for now....

[ByronRACE]

Turn the switch to Auto, install black plastic cap over light sensor.

[Zack]

But thanks, maybe I will just hook it to hot with ign on for now....

You need a relay(s). No exceptions

[fastblackmerc]

I thought the "auto" function on the headlight switch gave you DRL in a Marauder?

Only if you cover the sensor on the dash.

[fastblackmerc]

Thanks for the responses. Both, the installation instructions and the relay require a hot on run wire. I removed the power distribution box at the battery and all accessible wiring there seems to be hot with ignition on, so not suitable for this.
Also auto lights will only work if factory wired for canadian cars.
I would orefer not to run an additional wire from insude through the firewall if avoidable.

Auto lights will work if you turn the switch to auto and cover the sensor on the dash.

BTW... Depending on prevailing regulations and vehicle equipment, the daytime running light function may be implemented by functionally specific lamps, by operating the low beam headlamps or fog lamps at full or reduced intensity, by operating the high-beam headlamps at reduced intensity, or by steady-burning operation of the front turn signals.

[fastblackmerc]

I have plenty of ideas using LEDs - low power and no need for a relay.

[paparauder]

Thanks again to all. I came across the "cover the dash sensor" somewhere in the forum before but I do not like to micky mouse my repairs.
Also here is an excerpt from the Canadian inspection form.
"This Vehicle requires daytime running lights [DRL] to comply with CMVSS 108. The Master Headlight switch must be in the OFF position in order to pass DRL verification."
Since I needed this done pronto, I decided to splice into fuse 20/ pcm, Hegos at the power distribution box.
It is working now with ign on and running.

Anyone knows what Hegos are?

Need to get a shop manual.

Thanks again.

[massacre]

Hegos are your oxygen sensors I would plug those back in

Just go to the fuse panel in pass compartment and see if there are any spare spaces there. Also they make connectors with a fuse holder I think they might be called piggybacks.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46045/ATO-ATC-FUSE-CIRCUIT-TAP/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwlf_MBRDUARIsAD8 Gj8CaEZcq599TpEvqPSamfuBLj8j-IUcHedmtzuKlMtPbKfHdFmo1Jp8aAn dTEALw_wcB

Now I would think if you are pulling a lot of amps you would want to run a relay, the piggybacks are more for light duty stuff usually.

Then there are are these-

http://www.zackelectronics.com/atc-mini-pigtail-fuse-10amp-59035.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwlf_MB RDUARIsAD8Gj8BAwbeyqxZJoo5QgHx TmyvbEJ8wgU1NYsfxT5pPC9jSeyG5L NTdJ7AaAvOcEALw_wcB

Gotta love the name of this company lol
Again they are not necessarily meant for heavy duty high amp draw. But to power a relay kit it should be fine

[RF Overlord]

Here is the wiring diagram for the headlamps...shows how the DRL module is wired in.

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/Results?Year=2003&Make=56&Model=723&Engine=4.6&WdSystem=11&WdSubsystem=29

HEGO, as explained, is the Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor...I would not use that to power anything else.

[fastblackmerc]

OP

I have a spare under the dash fuse panel I can send you a connector from it.

[paparauder]

Thanks for all the input! I should have explained the set up a bit better.
The daylight running kit I am using, and I would assume most of them are like this, has a control relay with wiring to go to Batt. plus, chassis ground, up to three light circuits of your choosing (high beam, low beam, park circuit), of which I choose low beam and lastly one control wire, which needs to be powered when engine running w/o the use of headlight switch. That control wire is what I hooked up to fuse 20/ hego on power control box.
It is all good for now but I want to hook this control wire to a designated run only feed. The wiring diagram you attached is great and shows one such hot on run wire at the central junction box. I just had a hard time to figure out the location of the cjb, but correct me if I am wrong, it is the fuse panel inside of vehicle? I guess I will need to run a wire from inside to drl relay.
Thank you again.

[TORINO]

In the black power box by the battery there are two 15a fuses on one side by them selves they only have power when engine is running. You can still turn on accessories and run the radio with out lights coming on. Hook you daytime module power there. That should only be for activation not main power draw for lights.You have to just tap in along side fuse. Again only for low current to activate module. You should have another power wire hooked to battery power ( fused )to supply power for lights.

[massacre]

If there is a relay in the kit, then you can use piggybacks or the other type I posted. You can use a test light to see where the key hot circuits are.

[mm svt]

In the black power box by the battery there are two 15a fuses on one side by them selves they only have power when engine is running. You can still turn on accessories and run the radio with out lights coming on. Hook you daytime module power there. That should only be for activation not main power draw for lights.You have to just tap in along side fuse. Again only for low current to activate module. You should have another power wire hooked to battery power ( fused )to supply power for lights.



That's great information and solution.

[paparauder]

Yes, I used number 20/ hegos, pcm. It is all done and works. Passed inspection. But in the long run I prefer running it from the inside, uning an undesignated fuse. Thanks again.

[fastblackmerc]

Yes, I used number 20/ hegos, pcm. It is all done and works. Passed inspection. But in the long run I prefer running it from the inside, uning an undesignated fuse. Thanks again.

There are no "undesignated" fuses in the fuse box. There are connectors that are constant or switched 12v but the connector on the other side is missing, therefore you can't put a fuses in. I happen to have some fuse box connectors that fit.

[Logizyme]

If your Marauder is not equipped with a roof opening panel, there are some pretty good circuits for you to use. The roof opening panel has a hot at all times 25A fuse in the BJB that is sufficient for running both the low beam headlights. That fuse feeds the roof opening panel relay which is controlled by the CJB to operate with the key in the on/run and accessory position. If you open the BJB you can cut the White/Red wire from the relay which would head to the roof motor and splice it to your headlight control circuit. I would suggest using the same splice location as would be used by the daytime running light, which is between the multifunction switch and the CJB, which means that the low beams will have the intended second layer of fused protection(each has their own 10A fuse.)