MM Compatible ODB II Scan Tool?

[Svashtar]

I needed a decent ODB II reader for my MM (trying to diagnose that ABS light, which is probably a wheel sensor), and check and clear a DTC on another vehicle.

So I did a bunch of research and bought an Innova 3100j from Amazon. I’m not a pro and can’t justify $500 for a reader. I don’t need a color display, connectivity to a computer, live data, or Bluetooth. I called Innova in advance and their tech assured me it would work on any domestic car 1996 or later with ODB II to read my ABS problem.

I’m sure it does, just not on my ‘03 MM. I’m returning it for Amazon credit. Now Innova recommends the 3160g, which is twice as much, nearly $300. But the extra is for all the crap above I don’t need.

Thanks for any recommendations. Just want to diagnose and clear DTC’s and read ABS codes.


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[fastblackmerc]

I use this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CEN-TECH-62119-Deluxe-OBD-II-CAN-Scan-Tool-Brand-NEW-in-Factory-Sealed-Box-/322825095355?epid=661040945&hash=item4b29e008bb:g:7icAAOSw lEdZtN8g

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

I use my XCAL2. Centech is a Harbor Freight brand.

[Svashtar]

So, I’m getting an XCAL 4 from Marty. Will that handle ABS codes?

I know about the basic Centech at HF, but most entry level ones don’t handle SRS or ABS.


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[fastblackmerc]

So, I’m getting an XCAL 4 from Marty. Will that handle ABS codes?

I know about the basic Centech at HF, but most entry level ones don’t handle SRS or ABS.


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You be hard pressed to find a scanner that does SRS & ABS without spending a small fortune.

You should be able to scan & clear codes with the XCAL 4.

[Svashtar]

You be hard pressed to find a scanner that does SRS & ABS without spending a small fortune.



You should be able to scan & clear codes with the XCAL 4.



I know, but I wanted the ABS to diagnose my problem. The $125 Innova 3100j specifically says it does handle those, so it seemed like a fair price. But I’m finding that most that say they do, actually don’t, or only for a limited number of vehicles, until you get into the professional series range which starts at about $500 and goes up from there.

Guess I’ll use the Xcal 4 for most issues, and take the car to auto zone for the other. Thanks for the info.




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[fastblackmerc]

I know, but I wanted the ABS to diagnose my problem. The $125 Innova 3100j specifically says it does handle those, so it seemed like a fair price. But I’m finding that most that say they do, actually don’t, or only for a limited number of vehicles, until you get into the professional series range which starts at about $500 and goes up from there.

Guess I’ll use the Xcal 4 for most issues, and take the car to auto zone for the other. Thanks for the info.




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Don't think Auto Zone has ABS scanners to use on customers cars.

[Comin' in Hot]

I guarantee it's not the scan tool. I had the same issue. I did some research and found out it is pretty common for the abs electronics module to fail. You could send just electronic module out to be repaired, it is like $100. Module Repair Pro did mine, I think it does matter if it's a 2003 or 2004 so go through the their website and find yours.

http://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/Repair-Service-To-Your-Module-MRP-ABS-0160c.htm

[Svashtar]

I guarantee it's not the scan tool. I had the same issue. I did some research and found out it is pretty common for the abs electronics module to fail. You could send just electronic module out to be repaired, it is like $100. Module Repair Pro did mine, I think it does matter if it's a 2003 or 2004 so go through the their website and find yours.

http://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/Repair-Service-To-Your-Module-MRP-ABS-0160c.htm


Thanks very much, but it could be that the ABS module is fine, and that the ABS and brake lights are on due to a wheel sensor, correct? So replacing the ABS module wouldn’t solve the issue in that case.

I’d obviously need to know the module was bad before replacing it. The ABS light flickered on and off for several weeks before deciding to stay on permanently a few months ago.

Sorry, just reread your first sentence. You think that because the scan tool can’t connect, that proves that the ABS module is bad? I don’t know, I read a ton of reviews that show this reader is hit or miss on its ability to connect to ABS systems, and Fords and cars closest to 1996 are especially problematic. Innova oversells it’s ability in those areas. I bought it only after their tech assured me it would diagnose my issue. There seems to be a direct correlation between how much you spend and how well they work with ABS systems.

What you say makes sense, but I don’t see how you can guarantee it’s not just a problem with the tool.


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[justbob]

I've got several from over the years including an older Innova (very nice unit) but I still like using my Actron CP9580 the most and it handles ABS without issue. It was on sale for a couple of hundred a few years ago, probably half that anymore..


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[fastblackmerc]

Thanks very much, but it could be that the ABS module is fine, and that the ABS and brake lights are on due to a wheel sensor, correct? So replacing the ABS module wouldn’t solve the issue in that case.

I’d obviously need to know the module was bad before replacing it. The ABS light flickered on and off for several weeks before deciding to stay on permanently a few months ago.

Sorry, just reread your first sentence. You think that because the scan tool can’t connect, that proves that the ABS module is bad? I don’t know, I read a ton of reviews that show this reader is hit or miss on its ability to connect to ABS systems, and Fords and cars closest to 1996 are especially problematic. Innova oversells it’s ability in those areas. I bought it only after their tech assured me it would diagnose my issue. There seems to be a direct correlation between how much you spend and how well they work with ABS systems.

What you say makes sense, but I don’t see how you can guarantee it’s not just a problem with the tool.


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Check the rear speed sensors. The bolts have a bad habit of loosening up and backing out.

[fastblackmerc]

See post#2 - Changed the url

[Svashtar]

Where are they located and I’ll look for them. (I’m sure I’ve looked right at them and not recognized what I was seeing.).

I’ll do that. Might be that simple, thanks.


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[Svashtar]

I've got several from over the years including an older Innova (very nice unit) but I still like using my Actron CP9580 the most and it handles ABS without issue. It was on sale for a couple of hundred a few years ago, probably half that anymore..


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Thanks Bob, appreciate the reference. Online you see either cheap $19.95 ones, or others that promise the moon, so it’s hard to tell.


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[Svashtar]

I've got several from over the years including an older Innova (very nice unit) but I still like using my Actron CP9580 the most and it handles ABS without issue. It was on sale for a couple of hundred a few years ago, probably half that anymore..

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Looks like that model has been updated to the 9660 for around $180, but on their site Actron is still showing the 9580 for only $109.

Guess it’s good for up to 2010 cars only from what I’ve read, but mine are older anyway. I’ll call and talk to them tomorrow thanks again.


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[Comin' in Hot]

Thanks very much, but it could be that the ABS module is fine, and that the ABS and brake lights are on due to a wheel sensor, correct? So replacing the ABS module wouldn’t solve the issue in that case.

I’d obviously need to know the module was bad before replacing it. The ABS light flickered on and off for several weeks before deciding to stay on permanently a few months ago.

Sorry, just reread your first sentence. You think that because the scan tool can’t connect, that proves that the ABS module is bad? I don’t know, I read a ton of reviews that show this reader is hit or miss on its ability to connect to ABS systems, and Fords and cars closest to 1996 are especially problematic. Innova oversells it’s ability in those areas. I bought it only after their tech assured me it would diagnose my issue. There seems to be a direct correlation between how much you spend and how well they work with ABS systems.

What you say makes sense, but I don’t see how you can guarantee it’s not just a problem with the tool.


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The issue I had was the abs light was on, I tried three scanners including expensive snap-on scanners and all could not connect. If this turns out to be your issue, it's the module. If you are able to connect, i'm sure I'll tell you what's wrong.

[Svashtar]

The issue I had was the abs light was on, I tried three scanners including expensive snap-on scanners and all could not connect. If this turns out to be your issue, it's the module. If you are able to connect, i'm sure I'll tell you what's wrong.



Ok, thanks, I wouldn’t have even considered the possibility offhand, so I’m glad you chimed in. I have to eliminate the variable of this one scanner, as I’ve read it can have ABS connectivity issues. If it does it again with another brand, then I’ll be back posting to learn how to pull the module. Appreciate it.


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[MyBlackBeasts]

Thanks Bob, appreciate the reference. Online you see either cheap $19.95 ones, or others that promise the moon, so it’s hard to tell.


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https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9680-AUTOSCANNER-Airbag-Screen/dp/B01114V3BI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1508290205&sr=8-1&keywords=Actron+CP9580

[larryo340]

When the Ford IDS at work is already in use we use this one...it will read ABS and airbag codes, and it works pretty well. The price is very reasonable at under a $100 with what you’re getting with this scanner. It’s scans imports as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Autel-AL619-Autolink-Diagnostic-Tool-Scanner-OBD2-Code-Reader-SRS-CAN-ABS-Airbag-/251629758350

[MyBlackBeasts]

When the Ford IDS at work is already in use we use this one...it will read ABS and airbag codes, and it works pretty well. The price is very reasonable at under a $100 with what you’re getting with this scanner. It’s scans imports as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Autel-AL619-Autolink-Diagnostic-Tool-Scanner-OBD2-Code-Reader-SRS-CAN-ABS-Airbag-/251629758350

Any of these samples cycle the ABS for bleeding or is that only done with the Ford tool?

[Svashtar]

https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9680-AUTOSCANNER-Airbag-Screen/dp/B01114V3BI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1508290205&sr=8-1&keywords=Actron+CP9580


Yes, that’s the one for $180 I mentioned in post #15. It’s the upgrade / replacement to the 9580 Bob recommended.

The question is do I look for an old 9580 that handles cars up to 2010, or pay $70 more and get one that will also handle newer cars.


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[Svashtar]

Any of these samples cycle the ABS for bleeding or is that only done with the Ford tool?


None that I’ve seen from any mfr have that capability. Pretty sure you have to go to the dealer for that.


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[Svashtar]

When the Ford IDS at work is already in use we use this one...it will read ABS and airbag codes, and it works pretty well. The price is very reasonable at under a $100 with what you’re getting with this scanner. It’s scans imports as well.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Autel-AL619-Autolink-Diagnostic-Tool-Scanner-OBD2-Code-Reader-SRS-CAN-ABS-Airbag-/251629758350


Cool, thanks Larry.


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[larryo340]

Any of these samples cycle the ABS for bleeding or is that only done with the Ford tool?

This one will not perform the ABS bleed.

[RF Overlord]

Norm, I also have the Actron CP9580. I bought it specifically to diagnose an ABS issue with Mary's car. Unfortunately, since it's now discontinued, Actron no longer provides firmware updates, but it does everything I need it to, including I/M monitor status and state OBDII readiness checks, which I figure might be important to you, being in the PRK (People's Republic of Kalifornia). :)

[stevengerard]

I guarantee it's not the scan tool. I had the same issue. I did some research and found out it is pretty common for the abs electronics module to fail. You could send just electronic module out to be repaired, it is like $100. Module Repair Pro did mine, I think it does matter if it's a 2003 or 2004 so go through the their website and find yours.

http://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/Repair-Service-To-Your-Module-MRP-ABS-0160c.htm

THIS, and that is cheap. Try to find an 04 module that works. And you are correct there is a different because of TC. $100 is cheap for the rebuild compared to $100 + for used with no confirmation the module works or the one NOS one I've seen for $495

[justbob]

Norm, I also have the Actron CP9580. I bought it specifically to diagnose an ABS issue with Mary's car. Unfortunately, since it's now discontinued, Actron no longer provides firmware updates, but it does everything I need it to, including I/M monitor status and state OBDII readiness checks, which I figure might be important to you, being in the PRK (People's Republic of Kalifornia). :)



From what I understand Bob, it should accept the newest firmware for the CP9580A, but not the other way around.


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[Svashtar]

Norm, I also have the Actron CP9580. I bought it specifically to diagnose an ABS issue with Mary's car. Unfortunately, since it's now discontinued, Actron no longer provides firmware updates, but it does everything I need it to, including I/M monitor status and state OBDII readiness checks, which I figure might be important to you, being in the PRK (People's Republic of Kalifornia). :)


Thanks very much, I’m going to call them today to ask about both models. What I read is that you need to hookup the 9580a to a computer the first time (nothing newer than windows 7) and download their latest patch, then you’re good to go.

You’re right about needing that capability in the PRK. Right now I rely on my Scangauge II to tell me if the system is ready, but it doesn’t give any info beyond that.

FYI, with the stock tune the car would always be “ready” with all systems checks after a few days / driving cycles. With the DR tune it was never ready, for years, so something was keeping it from completing. So every other year I have to put the carb compliant airbox back on, reset the tune to factory, and drive it for at least a week for it to pass smog.

As people have pointed out that confuses the car because of the 4:10’s, but it can’t be helped.

Thanks again for the info.


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[Svashtar]

THIS, and that is cheap. Try to find an 04 module that works. And you are correct there is a different because of TC. $100 is cheap for the rebuild compared to $100 + for used with no confirmation the module works or the one NOS one I've seen for $495


I have TC on my ‘03, which of course stopped working when the ABS light came on. Hope it doesn’t come to replacing the damned thing.


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[vicateurlilss]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/09f37e491d5c47216ad5646bf23f9e c1.jpg

This is the scanner I use majority of the time for 95% of the stuff that comes into my shop..


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[Svashtar]

Follow up: Just got off the phone with Actron. Despite being shown on their web site at a close out price, they no longer sell the 9580A. The new equivalent is that 9680, supposed MSRP of $331, for $180 on Amazon. They recommend a firmware update when you get it, and insist it will handle all ABS for the MM with and without TC. (No reason to doubt them considering the posts here from Bob and RF, just wanted to be sure the new one had the same capability.)

If this one can’t read it then I know I have a bad ABS and will be back here asking you guys how to find it. Thanks.


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[GreekGod]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/09f37e491d5c47216ad5646bf23f9e c1.jpg

This is the scanner I use majority of the time for 95% of the stuff that comes into my shop..

Can you give me some info on the scanner you use ^^^ ???

Manufacturer, brand name, model number??? (I see it is a "CRP129"?)

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[Svashtar]

I ordered the above Actron 9680 from etooldirect on Amazon the other day. $167, free shipping, no tax, so saved $30 over buying it from Amazon direct.

Downside, unlike Amazon they charge 10% restocking fee if you want to return it for any reason other than it being busted. I have no knowledge of the seller, so am trusting it’s the real deal and not a Chinese ripoff clone, and that it will read the ABS code just like Bob’s older 9580 Model did.

If like the Innova it can’t connect, then I’ll have to assume the ABS module is bad.

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[Svashtar]

So, got the new Actron 9680 today, hooked it up and it gave me “no codes” on SRS, ODB II / EODB, and ECM. No mention of ABS and only flashed “communicating with ABS” for a fraction of a second, then the report only mentions the above three areas, not ABS.

The Actron tech guy tells me to hook up the unit to a computer and get the latest updates. I’ll do that, but by default this should have everything the 9580 you guys have, and those talk to your ABS modules.

I think my ABS is bad. Maybe a ground wire or something?

Guess I’ll take it to my mechanic and see if his kick-ass scanner can confirm, then see about R&R the ABS module.

Thanks for any info on how to find and remove it. I know someone here posted a link for repair so I’ll look for that.

Thanks for any info.


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[justbob]

Does it still ask if you want to retrieve all codes including ABS after you type in the vehicle? I always thought it was weird having to back up a page just to read the codes.


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[warmpancakes]

find a used Ford NGS on ebay for 300.00 it will do more than you never need yes its 300.00 but it will hold its value

[Svashtar]

Does it still ask if you want to retrieve all codes including ABS after you type in the vehicle? I always thought it was weird having to back up a page just to read the codes.


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No, after I gave it the vehicle info it launched into the routine, had me turn the key off, wait 10 seconds then turn the key on. It went through everything then gave me status on just those 3 areas.
After if I want I can go to a menu and retrieve any codes, but just get the same “no codes” report again.
But maybe the functionality is like you say if it does find any codes, not sure. (?)
By definition it should include ABS in the report categories, and because it doesn’t is why I think there’s a problem with the module itself.


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[Svashtar]

find a used Ford NGS on ebay for 300.00 it will do more than you never need yes its 300.00 but it will hold its value


No thanks; I have a good scan tool now that I’ve invested close to $200 in, that has confirmed function on our cars by two senior members of this forum. Unless it starts to smoke or something I’m keeping it.

If it’s not reading the ABS module on my car, and not even reporting on the ABS category, then the problem isn’t with the scanner.

I’ll download their latest software version tonight in any case, but doubt that’s it.


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[GreekGod]

find a used Ford NGS on ebay for 300.00 it will do more than you never need yes its 300.00 but it will hold its value
link:
http://www.oemtools.com/homeproducts/ford.html

-- Ford's NGS is replaced by the IDS tool --

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Ford IDS with Dell Laptop and Custom Case

$5,575.00


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[Comin' in Hot]

If I remember correctly when I did my ABS module:

1. Remove airbox
2. Unplug electrical connector(s) to ABS module.
3. Remove the six torx screws.
4. Gently pull off the electronic module and ship it off.

You could reassemble the airbox and drive the car. If you do you just need to cover the exposed side of the ABS unit.

[justbob]

You could unplug one of the front wheel sensors easily enough just to see if it pops up?


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[Svashtar]

If I remember correctly when I did my ABS module:

1. Remove airbox
2. Unplug electrical connector(s) to ABS module.
3. Remove the six torx screws.
4. Gently pull off the electronic module and ship it off.

You could reassemble the airbox and drive the car. If you do you just need to cover the exposed side of the ABS unit.


This is very helpful, thank you. I’ve probably been looking right at it and not knowing what it is.


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[Svashtar]

You could unplug one of the front wheel sensors easily enough just to see if it pops up?


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I’m sorry Bob, clueless here: So, if it pops up that means the ABS is working?
But if it was a bad wheel sensor which caused the ABS light to come on in the first place, then I wouldn’t expect it to activate. Might have to check a couple I guess.

I can try that, thanks. I don’t see how it could not be the ABS module if you and others are able to use the 9580 to scan ABS on your MM’s. The 9680 is the same tool with additional ABS support.

Bad ABS or not, I was hoping the scanner would still give me a status on the module.

Took me 40 minutes to download the newest software last night; Actron has some neat tools. I’m going to try it again tonight with the latest and greatest version and see if it can connect.

Thanks for the good suggestion.


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[GreekGod]

Follow up: Just got off the phone with Actron ... they no longer sell the 9580A. The new equivalent is ... 9680 ... They ... insist it will handle all ABS for the MM with and without TC. (No reason to doubt them considering the posts here from Bob and RF, just wanted to be sure the new one had the same capability.) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will "handle" ALL ABS?

What about an ABS powered brake bleed?

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[Svashtar]

Will "handle" ALL ABS?



What about an ABS powered brake bleed?



=



Sent from my HP desktop with Windows 10!



It’s a scanner; all ABS scanning / code read / diagnostic functions for 2003 and 2004 MM’s with and without TC.


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[Svashtar]

Follow-up; took it to my Ford guy who used his kick ass Snap On scanner and couldn’t connect to the ABS module either. He checked all the power connections / leads on the ABS and they’re all good. No fuse or relay issue, so it looks like the ABS just died.

His price from Ford is an unbelievable $706 so I’ll be looking to get it repaired.


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[GreekGod]

It’s a scanner; all ABS scanning / code read / diagnostic functions for 2003 and 2004 MM’s with and without TC.

Is that a yes?

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[Svashtar]

Is that a yes?



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LOL! Passive / aggressive much?

1. As stated, it’s an ODB II scan tool. A tool that can do an ABS powered brake bleed would not be categorized as an ODB II scan tool.

2. If you know of a bi-directional tool that will force an ABS module brake bleed for less than 4 or 5 times more, let me know. As I said, this one is less than $200.

3. “All ABS scanning / code read / diagnostic functions” seems clear. That statement doesn’t imply a “powered brake bleed” capability to me, but I can see how someone trying to make a point that the statement was too far-reaching might intentionally misinterpret it that way. Please interpret as you like.

Since you’ve expressed an interest, and are still asking about the scan tool three weeks after the updated post, here are the results of a 30-second Google search that will answer all your questions about the features and capabilities of the Actron CP9680:

https://topscantool.com/actron-cp9680-auto-scanner-plus-reviews.html

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01114V3BI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511884668&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Actron+9680&dpPl=1&dpID=41amrvQ%2B6dL&ref=plSrch

https://actron.com/content/autoscanner-plus-codeconnect-abs-and-airbag-coverage

Glad I could help.

FYI, for those really interested, the Actron 9680 seems like a better and more robust tool than the Innova 3100j. The ABS connectivity issue I’m having is with the module, not the scanner. I linked to their website and it took about 40 minutes to download an updated SW package with ABS diagnostic coverage for even more vehicles, and their support was great.

The only “negatives” compared to the Innova is that the power cord is fixed rather than detachable, and it doesn’t come with a USB download cable, but I have a pile of those. Also, neither comes with a case at this price range, but that’s easily fixed with a small tool bag.




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[GreekGod]

LOL! Passive / aggressive much?

1. As stated, it’s an ODB II scan tool. A tool that can do an ABS powered brake bleed would not be categorized as an ODB II scan tool.

2. If you know of a bi-directional tool that will force an ABS module brake bleed for less than 4 or 5 times more, let me know. As I said, this one is less than $200.

3. “All ABS scanning / code read / diagnostic functions” seems clear. That statement doesn’t imply a “powered brake bleed” capability to me, but I can see how someone trying to make a point that the statement was too far-reaching might intentionally misinterpret it that way. Please interpret as you like.

Glad I could help.

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Well, thanks for the quick response

I take your "LOL! Passive / aggressive much?" as an insult, in spite of the "LOL"

re:

Passive-aggressiveness, as the word indicates, is a tendency to engage in indirect expression of hostility through acts such as subtle insults, sullen behavior, stubbornness, or a deliberate failure to accomplish required tasks.

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My question was sincere. I am not an accomplished auto mechanic when it comes to understanding ECM's and technical terminology of their functions - I started working on Ford vehicles in 1967 (a 1957 Ford 2 door wagon, and a 1960 Lincoln Continental). I worked at a Ford dealer from 1969 to 1976, and have worked on and owned a few Ford built vehicles since 1967. Fuel injection and ECM's are still very new to me.

The bi-directional ABS tool in Ford's shop manual is just that to me - an ABS tool. I thank you for your explanation - I did not "intentionally misinterpret" anything

I just finished talking to "John" at OEMTools.com. They now sell an updated "New Generation Star Tester", made by Hickok Corporation (they made the OEM Ford NGS "scan tool" [their words]). It is called an NGS Mach III, covers 1984<2013 Fords, sells for about $2,000, and John said it will do an ABS brake bleed
link:
http://www.oemtools.com/homeproducts/ford.html

sent from my HP desktop with Windows 10 Pro

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[Svashtar]

Well, thanks for the quick response



I take your "LOL! Passive / aggressive much?" as an insult, in spite of the "LOL"



re:



Passive-aggressiveness, as the word indicates, is a tendency to engage in indirect expression of hostility through acts such as subtle insults, sullen behavior, stubbornness, or a deliberate failure to accomplish required tasks.



=





My question was sincere. I am not an accomplished auto mechanic when it comes to understanding ECM's and technical terminology of their functions - I started working on Ford vehicles in 1967 (a 1957 Ford 2 door wagon, and a 1960 Lincoln Continental). I worked at a Ford dealer from 1969 to 1976, and have worked on and owned a few Ford built vehicles since 1967. Fuel injection and ECM's are still very new to me.



The bi-directional ABS tool in Ford's shop manual is just that to me - an ABS tool. I thank you for your explanation - I did not "intentionally misinterpret" anything



I just finished talking to "John" at OEMTools.com. They now sell an updated "New Generation Star Tester", made by Hickok Corporation (they made the OEM Ford NGS "scan tool" [their words]). It is called an NGS Mach III, covers 1984<2013 Fords, sells for about $2,000, and John said it will do an ABS brake bleed

link:

http://www.oemtools.com/homeproducts/ford.html



sent from my HP desktop with Windows 10 Pro



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I’ll take you at your word. The way I read it, you knew the answer to the original question when you asked it, because you italicized my statement that it handled “all” ABS scanning / diagnostics, and you knew it was a $180 tool. If that wasn’t the case, and the question was sincere, then my apologies for misunderstanding and making an incorrect assumption,

As for the NGS tool, I’m not sure how that pertains to our discussion. Obviously professional tools costing $1K and over can do the function you asked about, but they aren’t marketed as ODB II scan tools costing less than $200.

Finally, I didn’t intend the “passive / aggressive” to be an insult, but rather as what I perceived to be an accurate assessment of two of your posts. Again, my apologies if I misread that. (One of the many problems with non-verbal communication...!)

I’m sending my ABS circuit board out for repair, and hopefully that will fix the problem with the light, as everything else checks out. If I ever need the ABS unit bled, I’ll take it to my mechanic. He told me he has a Snap-On tool that could do that job, and a lot more, God knows what he paid for it.


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[GreekGod]

I’ll take you at your word. The way I read it, you knew the answer to the original question when you asked it, because you italicized my statement that it handled “all” ABS scanning / diagnostics, and you knew it was a $180 tool. If that wasn’t the case, and the question was sincere, then my apologies for misunderstanding and making an incorrect assumption,

As for the NGS tool, I’m not sure how that pertains to our discussion. Obviously professional tools costing $1K and over can do the function you asked about, but they aren’t marketed as ODB II scan tools costing less than $200.

Finally, I didn’t intend the “passive / aggressive” to be an insult, but rather as what I perceived to be an accurate assessment of two of your posts. Again, my apologies if I misread that. (One of the many problems with non-verbal communication...!)

I’m sending my ABS circuit board out for repair, and hopefully that will fix the problem with the light, as everything else checks out. If I ever need the ABS unit bled, I’ll take it to my mechanic. He told me he has a Snap-On tool that could do that job, and a lot more, God knows what he paid for it.

I thank you for taking me at my word - it seems someone could make a dedicated Ford ABS brake bleeding tool for something less than $1K or $2K, and more like the $27 OBD II scanner that Menards sells

1) Two pages with 50 posts gets very confusing - I try to keep my questions simple, focused, and direct. I find that usually makes for a simple answer, a "yes" or "no" (when appropriate). I tend to use italics to "focus" on a question, and consider that brake bleeding should be included with a $200 to $300+ advanced "ABS scanning / diagnostics" tool, which is what the OEM Ford NGS "scan tool" is called (by many sources).

2) In your very first (#1) post, you recalled how a tech from Innova misled you on their 3100j, after you "did a bunch of research" prior to your purchase. By #6 you mentioned that most scanners say they do, but actually don’t do what they claim

3) In #20, "MyBlackBeasts" asked: "Any of these samples cycle the ABS for bleeding or is that only done with the Ford tool?" -- In #21, it appears you told him of a $180 tool that did. But in #22 you thought he had to go to the dealer for that. In #24 "larryo340" said: "This one will not perform the ABS bleed", without indicating which "one" he was referring to.

4) In #8, "Comin' In Hot" told you it was the module, but it took you over 4 weeks to have your Ford man confirm it was bad.

5) I mentioned the NGS Mach II because I thought it had only recently become available - but I now see that Amazon shows it available since 2007, and are available (new) for $1600 to $2000.

6) It often takes me a month to get back on this MM site - I have been trying to find a way to bleed my ABS for over a year

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[fastblackmerc]

I have been trying to find a way to bleed my ABS for over a year


Try driving the car a smashing the brakes multiple times to get the ABS to cycle.

Over a year? Maybe a trip to the dealer is in order.

[Svashtar]

Try driving the car a smashing the brakes multiple times to get the ABS to cycle.



Over a year? Maybe a trip to the dealer is in order.



I was told this as well, a good way to get the ABS to kick in. After I got my new brakes on and had to bed the pads, after I went through the bedding routine I powered up and really laid into them a few times, but no luck.

It cost a 1/2 hour of labor to get the mechanic to check all the fuses, relays and power points to the ABS and confirm they’re good, so I’m down to getting the module itself rebuilt.


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[GreekGod]

Try driving the car a smashing the brakes multiple times to get the ABS to cycle.

Over a year? Maybe a trip to the dealer is in order.

Cycling the ABS is an excellent suggestion - and we will have ice on the roads here soon - right now I am driving my 2009 CVPI

I won't be going to my Ford dealer for any service - I can usually find a work-around for any problem I have. Curless Auto Repair is local to me, and Chris would be my go-to garage man if needed

I have bled with a Mity-Vac, a good compressed air vacuum tool, gravity bled, and done a two-man 4 corner bleed so maybe it is the ABS. It just doesn't "seem" the ABS would give me a soft pedal, or would it (I have never had the ABS dash light come on)?

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[Svashtar]

I’m no expert but there are other reasons for a soft pedal other than the ABS. If you don’t have an ABS or brake light on, and if you are able to switch in TC (assuming you have it), then I would guess your ABS is fine.

My pedal is still a little soft when I continuously hold the pedal down, although the car stops fine. It feels like it has since the car was new. I figured that would improve when I install SS brake lines and possibly big brakes next year. We’ll see.


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[RF Overlord]

I’m sending my ABS circuit board out for repair, and hopefully that will fix the problem with the light, as everything else checks out. Norm, please let us know what company you used and how it works out, good or bad.

[Paul]

Thanks for starting this thread. Ive been driving with my abs and brake dash lights on for awhile, even bought one of the Centech scanners from Harbor Freight (and returned it when it didn't conect to the ABS). After reading the thread, I removed the module and sent it in to Module Repair Pro for repair. Got it back in a week, reinstalled, problem solved. Thank you Comin' in Hot for the referral. :beer:




I guarantee it's not the scan tool. I had the same issue. I did some research and found out it is pretty common for the abs electronics module to fail. You could send just electronic module out to be repaired, it is like $100. Module Repair Pro did mine, I think it does matter if it's a 2003 or 2004 so go through the their website and find yours.

http://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/Repair-Service-To-Your-Module-MRP-ABS-0160c.htm

[Svashtar]

Norm, please let us know what company you used and how it works out, good or bad.



Will do Bob, I was going to use the same site as referred to in the previous post by Paul, originally recommended by Comin’ in Hot. $99 instead of $700+ works for me, and I believe they guarantee the repair forever.


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[GreekGod]

I’m no expert but there are other reasons for a soft pedal other than the ABS. If you don’t have an ABS or brake light on, and if you are able to switch in TC (assuming you have it), then I would guess your ABS is fine.

My pedal is still a little soft when I continuously hold the pedal down, although the car stops fine. It feels like it has since the car was new. I figured that would improve when I install SS brake lines and possibly big brakes next year. We’ll see.

Thanks - my ABS has always worked well (and often on snow and ice in my winter driving) - I don't have TC

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[fastblackmerc]

Thanks - my ABS has always worked well (and often on snow and ice in my winter driving) - I don't have TC

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Your soft pedal maybe due to the age of the rubber brake hoses. Over time they will start to break down and may swell under pressure. A lot of soft pedal issues have been fixed by installing stainless steel brake hoses.

[lji372]

Cycling the ABS is an excellent suggestion - and we will have ice on the roads here soon - right now I am driving my 2009 CVPI

I won't be going to my Ford dealer for any service - I can usually find a work-around for any problem I have. Curless Auto Repair is local to me, and Chris would be my go-to garage man if needed

I have bled with a Mity-Vac, a good compressed air vacuum tool, gravity bled, and done a two-man 4 corner bleed so maybe it is the ABS. It just doesn't "seem" the ABS would give me a soft pedal, or would it (I have never had the ABS dash light come on)?

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Curless can take care of the abs bleed :beatnik:

[GreekGod]

Your soft pedal maybe due to the age of the rubber brake hoses. Over time they will start to break down and may swell under pressure. A lot of soft pedal issues have been fixed by installing stainless steel brake hoses.

Thanks - that could be it from what you say - I had front braided stainless lines, but never got around to installing the rears.

I lost my brakes last winter when my snow tire wheels wore a hole in one (I forgot to check for clearance when I changed over from the OEM wheels).


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[fastblackmerc]

Thanks - that could be it from what you say - I had front braided stainless lines, but never got around to installing the rears.

I lost my brakes last winter when my snow tire wheels wore a hole in one (I forgot to check for clearance when I changed over from the OEM wheels).


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Could also be the master cylinder or booster.

Remove the master cylinder to booster nuts and pull the master away and see if there is any leakage past the rear seal.

[Svashtar]

Could also be the master cylinder or booster.

Remove the master cylinder to booster nuts and pull the master away and see if there is any leakage past the rear seal.


I first thought of doing this to mine, but the fact is the reservoir level hasn’t dropped any. I’ll bet GreekGod is the same. My pedal might be softer than it was new, but still firm enough to stop the car quickly. It’s always felt about this level of firmness. If I press hard on the pedal and hold it for 15 seconds or so, and it will slowly move to the floorboard, so not sure if that’s normal.

As shown in my long brake thread months ago [emoji15] I took the time to bleed everything carefully, and there’s no way I can think for air to be in the system.

I think your theory is right and predict the SS lines will help firm everything up.


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[GreekGod]

Could also be the master cylinder or booster.

Remove the master cylinder to booster nuts and pull the master away and see if there is any leakage past the rear seal.

Thanks - I have no leaks, but I will check

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[justbob]

My master has weeped fluid for a number of years (just enough to eat away about 2” of paint, no actuall drips).

I️ run at least 6 year old Ebay drilled and slotted rotors (juuuusstt starting to finally pulsate a tad on the highway).

I️ do have the bracket kit and S.S. hoses, on the shelf for almost two years now..

But whats funny is after I️ drive my work van all week, my car feels like it has 18” brakes! Once you get used to vehicles that flat out can NOT stop, you learn to respect not only distance between you and others, you also respect just how good your braking really is in your car..


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