Forged Internals

[chefcaleb]

Looking to boost my Marauder. I'm looking for a good price on forged internals. If anyone has some or can point me in the direction of a good price for them, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

[Lowndex]

Until the experts reply, do you want specific brands of each part or a collection set (Eagle Street Racing, Scat, etc.? Examples of what I picked:

• Bullet race camshafts
• Scat crankshaft
• Diamond Race pistons
• Manley H-Beam connecting rods, upgraded ARP2000 bolts
• Manley custom titanium valves and springs
• Clevite tri-metal bearings

Good sources to buy forged internals are:

* Lethal Performance
* American Muscle (2004 Cobra)
* Modular Motorsports Racing
* Mod Max Racing

Combination kits, lowest cost from Summit Racing, Rock Auto.

[chefcaleb]

Not really brand loyal. I saw the mod Max ones. I know this isn't cheap but hey can't blame me for wanting to save money. I will take a look at summit and rock auto. I like to hear what others did so I know exactly what works well.

[RubberCtyRauder]

do you have a builder? using present block? does your builder recommend anything? previous owner of mine used Diamond pistons wuth Eagle rods. and nitrided crank. Kellog is another crank source. need to figure out goals, hp, end use, budget

[chefcaleb]

Right and I do have a builder. Statts Performance in muncy pa. He specializes in ford motors and building race cars. I do intend to have this as my daily driver and race it too. Right now we aim for 500hp as I know the engine can't handle much more than that. So if I wanted to go more I know I either need to swap for a better engine or build this one. Which is why I am just wanting to see what kind of deal I could get for forged parts.

[RubberCtyRauder]

block is good for 700-800 or more no issue. stock stuff,400-450, crank 500-600 maybe more. stock trans. not sure.

[chefcaleb]

But I would say 750hp would be my goal. He says with deep enough pockets I could get 1000 plus. But I don't think my pockets go that deep.

[Lowndex]

Welcome to the 'modness'. My project started 2.3 years ago at $16,800. Enjoy the ride.

[chefcaleb]

block is good for 700-800 or more no issue. stock stuff,400-450, crank 500-600 maybe more. stock trans. not sure.

Hmm I thought the internals were good to 550. From what I've heard swapping and engine can be cheaper than forging if the right engine can be found. It looks like I'm going to do a twin turbo and keep the boost low until my pockets grow. He has all the parts ready to order for that. But it is the internals that I would love to upgrade to... unleash the beast as it were. His setup already has my fuel system upgrade included and my rear end has already been done with 31 spline and the who deal.

[chefcaleb]

Welcome to the 'modness'. My project started 2.3 years ago at $16,800. Enjoy the ride.

Yeah I'm about 7k in it now. Just looking at what I can do to safely get to my goal of 700 to 800hp.

[RubberCtyRauder]

stock internals are good for 400-450. .forged much higher.

[Lowndex]

Yeah I'm about 7k in it now. Just looking at what I can do to safely get to my goal of 700 to 800hp.

Get more $, you will need it.

[Seneca]

Get more $, you will need it.

Words to live by!! What ever you estimate double it and you will be close

[tbone]

Stock trans can't handle sh**. See Freddie Brown. Have credit card with high limit.

http://www.fbperformance.com/ViewTransmission/?TransmissionID=37

[FordNut]

Joe Walsh had some good internals awhile back, not sure if they sold.

[Joe Walsh]

Joe Walsh had some good internals awhile back, not sure if they sold.

Unfortunately, the forged Cobra Crank, Manley rods and forged pistons are all sold.
Only things that are still available is the D.S.S. main girdle/support brace with oil pan and pick-up.

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=104232


.

[chefcaleb]

Dang, that's too bad.

[vkirkend]

get the advice of your builder.....

[chefcaleb]

get the advice of your builder.....

I know. I just told him I'd see if there were any for sale on here.

[tbone]

Boost it to 12 pounds and beat the crap out of it until it fails someday, then go forged.
That's my plan anyway.

[chefcaleb]

Boost it to 12 pounds and beat the crap out of it until it fails someday, then go forged.
That's my plan anyway.



There you go... then I can say to my wife... "Oops, the engine is broke, I have to repair the engine now." Better to ask forgiveness than permission kind of thing.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Don't cheap out. Just buy quality new parts from reputable vendors. You don't want to go in there more than once if you don't have to, so might as well do it right the first time.

Btw..My car dyno'd at 438rwtq and knocked about a year and a couple thousand miles later with spirited driving and beating-on so the stock internals are only a matter of time once you go boosted.

[Lowndex]

There you go... then I can say to my wife... "Oops, the engine is broke, I have to repair the engine now." Better to ask forgiveness than permission kind of thing.

Just lie now and get an awesome ride.

[chefcaleb]

Don't cheap out. Just buy quality new parts from reputable vendors. You don't want to go in there more than once if you don't have to, so might as well do it right the first time.

Btw..My car dyno'd at 438rwtq and knocked about a year and a couple thousand miles later with spirited driving and beating-on so the stock internals are only a matter of time once you go boosted.



Oh, I hope I didn't come off as me trying to be cheap. I just like to find a good deal, that's all. The stuff he is putting into my car thus far is top notch from what you all have said and from what he has suggested. The best fuel system money can by at this price point, great turbos and headers. So I'm not skimping on what I am buying but I am trying to get a good deal. No sense in spending more money just because...

[Spectragod]

So I'm not skimping on what I am buying but I am trying to get a good deal. .

Does not compute...... cheap-good-fast, get your wallet ready, tell your wife whatever you bought was $8..

Or just buy a built car, less $$$ in the long run, sorted out from the get go,

[SGT_MERC]

I may have an 03 cobra crank and a few other things going up for sale soon, Excessive Motorsports is building me an engine. The crank has never been ground and when the block was assembled, it spec'd out perfectly and held excellent oil pressure with stock size mains. I'll be selling the ARP main studs, crank and maybe the rods. I'll have to check the rods before agreeing to sell them.

[NorthShoreChiMM]

Don't use a scat crank, Hard to balance and the material is subpar in comparison to other brands. Machine work could cost anywhere from 1200-1500. Parts can be anywhere from 2k-4k depending on how much of the stock components your keeping and the quality of materials.

[Spectragod]

Don't use a scat crank, Hard to balance and the material is subpar in comparison to other brands. Machine work could cost anywhere from 1200-1500. Parts can be anywhere from 2k-4k depending on how much of the stock components your keeping and the quality of materials.



Then factor in cams, cam springs, head work, arp fasteners, it gets expensive quick, oh the fun times that were had...lol

Good luck, enjoy the build.


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[tbone]

I'm perfectly happy with my 12 pounds of boost and stock internals. I've spent enough on my built trans to make President Trump blush. Someday I will have the engine built to to 9's. When I win the lottery.....

[Lowndex]

Don't use a scat crank, Hard to balance and the material is subpar in comparison to other brands. Machine work could cost anywhere from 1200-1500. Parts can be anywhere from 2k-4k depending on how much of the stock components your keeping and the quality of materials.

My questions below are not meant o challenge or be disrespectful. I followed by engine builder's advice and bought a Pro Series Lightweight Scat crankshaft (http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/about-crankshafts/). I simply want to hear your input to learn of better choices.

Please share why you believe the Scat crankshaft material is subpar?

Which brands are better?

[Themarauderguy]

Just do forged rods and Pistons. The stock crank is good up to 600hp. I have a stock block 12# of boost eaton swap. Every time I get in it I go wide open throttle and ive been doing it for 6 months haven't broke yet. Lol

[Spectragod]

Just do forged rods and Pistons. The stock crank is good up to 600hp. I have a stock block 12# of boost eaton swap. Every time I get in it I go wide open throttle and ive been doing it for 6 months haven't broke yet. Lol



And when it blows up, it’ll take your rods and block with it. Why not just spend $800?




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[NorthShoreChiMM]

Do the forged crank.

[chefcaleb]

Does not compute...... cheap-good-fast, get your wallet ready, tell your wife whatever you bought was $8..

Or just buy a built car, less $$$ in the long run, sorted out from the get go,



Again, I think you are not understanding me. I fully, fully understand this is not a cheap endeavor. That has been made clear and I knew that going in. I own about 15k worth of home stereo equipment. My Subwoofers alone cost about 3.5k. So I am passionate about getting the best of the best. But, while my subs cost that much, I shopped around and found the best price for them. I don't believe in paying a lot just for the sake of paying a lot. I drive my wife crazy for always wanting the best brand or the best product of anything I buy but I do that because I believe things should work properly... ugh... now I sound like Mr. Dyson.


Anyway, I'm not trying to boast about my stereo or anything of that nature. I just want to be clear that I understand everything is going to be expensive but I don't think it is smart to always pay top dollar for something when it can be had for a better price. Which is why I came here. I figured you all could point me to the place that gives the best price. Or maybe have extra parts laying around.

[Spectragod]

Again, I think you are not understanding me. I fully, fully understand this is not a cheap endeavor. That has been made clear and I knew that going in. I own about 15k worth of home stereo equipment. My Subwoofers alone cost about 3.5k. So I am passionate about getting the best of the best. But, while my subs cost that much, I shopped around and found the best price for them. I don't believe in paying a lot just for the sake of paying a lot. I drive my wife crazy for always wanting the best brand or the best product of anything I buy but I do that because I believe things should work properly... ugh... now I sound like Mr. Dyson.


Anyway, I'm not trying to boast about my stereo or anything of that nature. I just want to be clear that I understand everything is going to be expensive but I don't think it is smart to always pay top dollar for something when it can be had for a better price. Which is why I came here. I figured you all could point me to the place that gives the best price. Or maybe have extra parts laying around.



I stayed at a holiday inn express last night, so I feel ya..


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[Themarauderguy]

And when it blows up, it’ll take your rods and block with it. Why not just spend $800?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk why would I not spend 800 because I have seen and have people I work with who build these thongs all the time and they don't put a forged crank in. And they Run 650 horsepower to the wheels and they haven't broke them yet now yes if you're going to get 700 800 horsepower crazy sugar go all out on your Block heads whatever.

[Themarauderguy]

But to the Op. If you want to spend a lot of money build it the way you want but you don't have to spend thousands on it to get it where you want it now if you're having a shop do it. don't be cheap and do it the right way the first time. I do all my own work so for me I guess it didn't make a big deal if it's done expensive or cheap just a word of advice.

[SGT_MERC]

It depends on the type of boost though. In my opinion, boost derived from turbo, centrifugal and roots style blowers have different stresses they put on a crank. If I'm driving a whipple, I'm gonna have a forged crank, especially if I'm not using a caged lower. The most common breaking pt on a 4.6l/5.4l crank shaft, when running boost off of the lower pulley, is behind the oil pump, because of crank shaft flex. Driving a blower off of the crank, if not caged, is also reason for breaking oil pumps and loosing oil pressure, if billet gears are not used, because of flex. If I'm running any boost off the lower pulley, I'm gonna support the pulley and/or go forged crank.

[Themarauderguy]

Yes that would make sense on a Whipple car you're right about that. running high amounts of boost on a simple eaton swap car. though I don't see myself getting that crazy but yes I can I see exactly where you're coming from. And yes these root style blower's due put a lot of stress on the lower crank whereas a centrifical or turbos don't.

[Themarauderguy]

Really I think a safe number on a stock crank with forged connecting rods and pistons should be about 500 to the wheels.

[chefcaleb]

It depends on the type of boost though. In my opinion, boost derived from turbo, centrifugal and roots style blowers have different stresses they put on a crank. If I'm driving a whipple, I'm gonna have a forged crank, especially if I'm not using a caged lower. The most common breaking pt on a 4.6l/5.4l crank shaft, when running boost off of the lower pulley, is behind the oil pump, because of crank shaft flex. Driving a blower off of the crank, if not caged, is also reason for breaking oil pumps and loosing oil pressure, if billet gears are not used, because of flex. If I'm running any boost off the lower pulley, I'm gonna support the pulley and/or go forged crank.



I am going with a turbo setup that the shop is doing. That's a good point though. Thanks for that input.

[chefcaleb]

But to the Op. If you want to spend a lot of money build it the way you want but you don't have to spend thousands on it to get it where you want it now if you're having a shop do it. don't be cheap and do it the right way the first time. I do all my own work so for me I guess it didn't make a big deal if it's done expensive or cheap just a word of advice.



Yes, I wish so bad I knew how to do all of this. It would seem a good deal of the price for forged internals is the labor aspect of it. The shop I'm using is all about safety and doing it right. So, a lot of labor and love is going into this, which of course is pricey. But, his and my goal is all about getting to where I want safely. I would love to someday, bring the car well over 700hp. But for now, as the shop says, I am going to love 450 or so. Since I'm going with turbo, the boost will be held rather low until I can afford to build the engine and trans.

[Spectragod]

Lidio told me the stock crank should be fine, and should sustain my 500+ at the wheels, but the forged would sustain the power, easy choice for me since I don’t see the fun in building a 2nd engine because I shortchanged it.

The cleanup is no fun either. YMMV....


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[Themarauderguy]

Lidio told me the stock crank should be fine, and should sustain my 500+ at the wheels, but the forged would sustain the power, easy choice for me since I don’t see the fun in building a 2nd engine because I shortchanged it.

The cleanup is no fun either. YMMV....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I agree with you 100% because the truth is like the old saying goes It's never enough once you get the 500 you want more and more and more so might as well do it right the first time.:banana2:

[Rafael]

If you are still looking for rods/ pistons i Have a full set of Manley Rods and .20 over Manley Pistons Id let go for cheap.

[chefcaleb]

If you are still looking for rods/ pistons i Have a full set of Manley Rods and .20 over Manley Pistons Id let go for cheap.



Dang... well I decided to go with a 2004 cobra engine swap. I would have hit you up had I seen that earlier.

[JBeezy]

If you are still looking for rods/ pistons i Have a full set of Manley Rods and .20 over Manley Pistons Id let go for cheap.



What’s cheap? PM me



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