Oil housing gasket

[04 Quicksilver]

How big of a job is it to change a leaky oil housing gasket on the '04? What are the steps? Thanks in advance.


BW
Marauders x 3

[Turbov6Bryan]

Drain oil
Drain radiator
Make a mess draining thermostat housing. install new oem t-stat
Pull 4 bolts holding the housing make a even bigger mess, if you have some swivel extensions, this makes life a little easier.
Inspect housing for cracks.
Clean gasket off housing, fill holes where the gasket was at on the housing, the housing tends to corrode, i just use some right stuff while installing the gasket.

Clean surfaces, install new gasket with sealer. New oil, oil filter, coolant.

Then fill with coolant and make sure heater core has plenty of coolant in it.

It makes a really big mess, but if you have a trash can lid sized catch all, then it helps.
Other than a mess, really easy job. 4 bolts

[RubberCtyRauder]

make sure cooling system is burped for air, there are instructions on how to or it will overheat

[NorthShoreChiMM]

You do not have to replace or remove the thermostat to remove the housing and then the gasket. You will also have to remove the “sending unit” to get access to the left lower bolt. Don’t over tighten then plastic drain plug on the radiator. Also make sure your cross over plug isn’t seized, if so torch that sucker. +1 on the right stuff, it seals the imperfections on the housing unit and you could put it on the gasket if you want overkill.

[ncmm]

deleted. .lost link

[Turbov6Bryan]

You do not have to replace or remove the thermostat to remove the housing and then the gasket. You will also have to remove the “sending unit” to get access to the left lower bolt. Don’t over tighten then plastic drain plug on the radiator. Also make sure your cross over plug isn’t seized, if so torch that sucker. +1 on the right stuff, it seals the imperfections on the housing unit and you could put it on the gasket if you want overkill.

You don't have to pull the sending unit, just use wobble extensions and socket

Thermostat was advised for maintenance, 13 year old part, coolant system is open, it should be replaced.

We forgot to mention buying a new COT tube oring on the plug :)

[Svashtar]

Disregard, figured it out, thanks.

Found Byron’s instruction, all good, but going to have to reuse the COT plug o-ring as those puppies are hard to find.

[Svashtar]

Disregard, figured it out, thanks.

Found Byron’s instruction, all good, but going to have to reuse the COT plug o-ring as those puppies are hard to find.

Somehow the o-ring to my COT cap disappeared. It wasn’t there when I took the cap off. Does anyone have an extra they can send me from the 10-packs amazon used to sell? I’ll gladly send you $ for shipping and a few beers.

I found them online and for 6 of them they are charging $5 for materials and $25 for UPS ground shipping. ??? I figure 6 weigh a fraction of an ounce maybe.

It hasn’t been leaking so I don’t know how critical this is, but figure I better have it. Thanks for your help.


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[justbob]

Researching SVTPerformance and this comes up.

http://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-o-rings-914-hydraulic-sae-boss-7-8-price-for-5-pcs/


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[Svashtar]

Researching SVTPerformance and this comes up.

http://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-o-rings-914-hydraulic-sae-boss-7-8-price-for-5-pcs/


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Thanks Bob, I’ll take a look. These are -14 though and Bryan’s original link was for -15, so I’ll see if they have that size. Appreciate the link.

I got the COT out pretty easily to finally change the O-rings and am cleaning that up and changing the OF housing gasket as well. The four bolts are almost impossible to see though. I see two on top but they’re angled down so might be for something else. I’ll figure it out.

P.S. Spent 10 minutes under the car in the sun today wiping stuff down and couldn’t see a thing around the housing. Went out tonight with a flashlight and the bolts are obvious. No problem getting around the sending unit with a wobbly.

[Svashtar]

Ok, dumb question: Does the COT cap o-ring go up against the top underside of the cap above the threads, or is it the O-ring in the groove in the center of the cap? My cap was on tight with no leaking, but I swear there used to be a second o-ring on top of the threads. Thanks again.


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[justbob]

Sorry, I misread and thought you were looking for the crossover tube Orings..

The plug is - AS 568-015

Post 19

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/crossover-tube-o-rings.748060/

There is only the one Oring on the plug that I recall.


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[Svashtar]

Sorry, I misread and thought you were looking for the crossover tube Orings..

The plug is - AS 568-015

Post 19

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/crossover-tube-o-rings.748060/

There is only the one Oring on the plug that I recall.

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Thanks Bob. The link to the crossover tube o-rings is also helpful because of the price. I can’t recall where I got these 4 now, but I paid at least $20 for them. (I have to start bookmarking everything because the search here sucks.)

The COT plug seems to have a space above the threads and under the cap for an o-ring, but one wasn’t there, just the center one. Since it isn’t leaking I won’t worry about it.

I don’t know how you find these links so quick but appreciate it.

[Turbov6Bryan]

I should have some cot plug o rings here. Gotta find em

[Svashtar]

Drain oil
Drain radiator
Make a mess draining thermostat housing. install new oem t-stat
Pull 4 bolts holding the housing make a even bigger mess, if you have some swivel extensions, this makes life a little easier.
Inspect housing for cracks.
Clean gasket off housing, fill holes where the gasket was at on the housing, the housing tends to corrode, i just use some right stuff while installing the gasket.

Clean surfaces, install new gasket with sealer. New oil, oil filter, coolant.

Then fill with coolant and make sure heater core has plenty of coolant in it.

It makes a really big mess, but if you have a trash can lid sized catch all, then it helps.
Other than a mess, really easy job. 4 bolts

Thanks for all this Bryan. I got the housing off (that last bolt behind the sending unit was the messy one!) and there is some slight corrosion on the removable side of the housing where the gasket was. I sanded it out on a piece of plate glass covered with high grit sandpaper, but it’s a lot harder to smooth out the block side.

I have some sticky permatex form-a-gasket I’ll coat both sides with and hope that works to tighten things up.

I’m not sure exactly how tight they were, but I had to lean on all 4 bolts pretty hard to break them free; I’m guessing they were on at about 50-60 ft lbs.


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[Turbov6Bryan]

I've used jb weld aluminum repair with excellent results. Just lightly sand after it sets up. I've used other stuff too, sets in a hour. Works fine too

[Svashtar]

I've used jb weld aluminum repair with excellent results. Just lightly sand after it sets up. I've used other stuff too, sets in a hour. Works fine too

Didn’t think of that, but I was able to get a good coating of form-a-gasket stuff on both sides. For me there just isn’t any way to sand the block side of the housing, so I sc***** off any residue up there, cleaned it with acetone, then painted on the Permatex liquid.

You saved my butt with that zip tie trick, I don’t think I could have done it otherwise. I couldn’t see of course, but counted on the top and bottom bolt to line up the gasket on the housing. Now that I have it together I can see 1/64” of blue gasket peeking out the back edge, but it doesn’t appear to be leaking. I’ll know for sure after I replace the oil sending unit tonight.

P.S. Sorry see it was the instructional from Byronrace where he mentions the zip tie, to give proper credit!


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[Svashtar]

I should have some cot plug o rings here. Gotta find em

Thanks Bryan. I took the old one which is in marginal shape and coated it with plumbers grease and it perked up a bit and is working for now, but eventually it will have to be replaced.


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