Oil in spark plug wells

[HotRaud90]

This mornin I decided I was going to go ahead and change my spark plugs to see if the swap would cure a stumbling, bucking issue I was having while in low-rpm OD. When I got into the COP covers and pulled out the COPs, I noticed there was some oil around the top of the COPs (see pic). I then examined the spark plug wells and found that a few of them had a very small amount of oil resting near the bottom of the wells. The walls of most of the wells also seemed to have a bit of oily residue on them (see pics).

What am I looking at here? Valve cover leak due to bad gaskets? Some type of o-rings somewhere?

Also, it's worth noting that the rear-most passenger side plug well was dusty as hell with little to no oil residue. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the experience y'all can share.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180703/2ea0cde0944b3d0b67db3625577df1 5b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180703/fccc86a38e28c59840d24af6ce3680 a3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180703/eaf1f7a670889393101f150b4dd743 6c.jpg

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[Turbov6Bryan]

The cam covers have 1 seal per spark plug hole. Pulling the cam covers is an adventure some wish they never went on.

How many years has it been since you have had this opened up?

I would retorque the cam covers and clean up the oil and get a few years out of it

[HotRaud90]

I'd say it's probably been over 2 years since I opened up the plug covers to replace the spark plugs. No oil leaks at that time, not that I can remember.

Is this a pretty common problem to encounter? Should I just go ahead and replace the 8 seals and the actual cam cover gasket all at the same time? Seems so...

I need to do the timing chain guides/tensioners this summer anyway, so I figured I may as well wait on this for now and tackle the whole sunuvabitch in one painful, laborious, curse-inducing fell swoop.

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[fastblackmerc]

There are seals for each spark plug. The cam covers aren't that bad to take off. I'd just re-torque the cam covers (as stated) and see if that fixes the problem. Make sure to use anti-sieze and torque the plugs when reinstalling.

[HotRaud90]

There are seals for each spark plug. The cam covers aren't that bad to take off. I'd just re-torque the cam covers (as stated) and see if that fixes the problem. Make sure to use anti-sieze and torque the plugs when reinstalling.Since I'm taking the task of replacing worn guides and tensioners head on this summer, wouldn't it make sense that I go ahead and replace the seals and cover gaskets at that time? If I'm not mistaken, I'll have to loosen up the front cam cover bolts to remove the timing cover anyway.

Additionally, are there any tutorials on the procedures of removing/replacing cam cover components and timing chain guides and tensioners? Can't seem to find one anywhere. That seems bizarre to me.

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[Turbov6Bryan]

I ordered my 4 guides at tasca and then ordered the iron tensioners at rockauto.
If you are fixin to open it up, might as well do the cam cover seals too.

Lot of videos on YouTube how to take it apart, depends on miles and chain stretch, lots of people replace everything but the chains.....

How many miles on it? Are you getting start up noise?

[03Merc]

I would change the intake gaskets too. Do everything at once, don't put it off for too much longer tho!


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[HotRaud90]

I ordered my 4 guides at tasca and then ordered the iron tensioners at rockauto.
If you are fixin to open it up, might as well do the cam cover seals too.

Lot of videos on YouTube how to take it apart, depends on miles and chain stretch, lots of people replace everything but the chains.....

How many miles on it? Are you getting start up noise?

I'll have to look again on YouTube, but I didn't seem to find anything definitive for our cars. Just a couple of janky, ill-explained videos on 4.6 motors. I'll take another look, but if anyone has a good write up or video to share, it would be much appreciated.

120k mi on the car, none of the "clack, clack, clack" on start up that I've heard others attribute to the timing chain system. I had planned on just keeping the original chains in there.

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[HotRaud90]

I would change the intake gaskets too. Do everything at once, don't put it off for too much longer tho!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProI hear ya. That's what my aim will be when I tackle it. Gonna get it taken care of within the next month or so. It's waited longer than I wanted to already!

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[tbone]

Use a 19mm socket and remove the passenger side engine mount nut. Jack up the motor an inch or 2 so you can get the cover off. You will hate your car and your life if you don't do this.

[HotRaud90]

Use a 19mm socket and remove the passenger side engine mount nut. Jack up the motor an inch or 2 so you can get the cover off. You will hate your car and your life if you don't do this.So I've heard. Where are the motor mounts and where is the best place to jack up the engine without buggerin somethin up?

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[Turbov6Bryan]

No noise, no clatter, 120k and your going to replace the guides??
Don't tell my 212k 300a this!! She's still on stock ones

[HotRaud90]

Preventative maintenance, peace of mind, neutralizing an imminent threat...whatever you want to call it. Heard too many stories of folks having zero guide material left when they finally crack it open. By the time you've heard the startup clacks, it's usually too late. Might as well get it out of the way while my schedule allows.

Plus, I'm pretty sure I have an oil leak between where the timing cover, cam cover, and engine block meet. Getting in there would cure that gremlin as well.

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[justbob]

So I've heard. Where are the motor mounts and where is the best place to jack up the engine without buggerin somethin up?

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18MM

Straight up from the bottom side of the K member. Two large holes for access.


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[Turbov6Bryan]

Your oil leak might be the oil filter housing. You should replace it too. 4 bolts and it's off

[HotRaud90]

Your oil leak might be the oil filter housing. You should replace it too. 4 bolts and it's offThat's good advice, but been there and done that twice already. At first I thought it was that too, but I've inspected it pretty thoroughly and the leak doesn't seem to be coming from the housing. Seems to be leaking from above the adapter and dripping down onto it. Will still check it though when I've got things apart.

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[Turbov6Bryan]

If you haven't replaced it, please do so

[tbone]

18MM

Straight up from the bottom side of the K member. Two large holes for access.


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I could swear it was 19mm. I didn't have that size and had to buy it special.

[tbone]

No noise, no clatter, 120k and your going to replace the guides??
Don't tell my 212k 300a this!! She's still on stock ones

I replaced mine around 140k and it was starting to bore into the metal. No clatter.

[tbone]

So I've heard. Where are the motor mounts and where is the best place to jack up the engine without buggerin somethin up?

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I used a 2 by 4 under the oil pan. Doesn't take much pressure to raise it up.

[fastblackmerc]

I used a 2 by 4 under the oil pan. Doesn't take much pressure to raise it up.

That's how I did it too.

[HotRaud90]

Are there any other fasteners I need to loosen before I raise the motor a couple of inches? So far I've seen most people say to loosen two motor mount bolts through K member access holes and lift it. I just want to make sure I'm not going to stress anything else before I go to lift it.

Additionally, have any members produced any write ups on the timing guide/tensioner replacement procedure? I have bits and tips from here and there, but haven't seen a dedicated write up for MMs. I'm pretty confident on the major details but having a detailed write up specifically geared towards a Marauder always sets my mind at ease. Thanks in advance.

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[03Merc]

Loosen only one engine mount at a time, I believe they are 18mm. Remove right side when doing the right side valve cover and then replace the bolt before taking out the other side (left) out. Use a piece of wood on the oil pan and You should be fine. When doing the timing chains You can use the BIG zip ties to hold the chains together when removing the tensioners and arms and guides. You may need to turn the cam sprocket a little to get the the parts back in. Always check the timing marks b4 putting it back together, it's not that hard really.


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[HotRaud90]

Loosen only one engine mount at a time, I believe they are 18mm. Remove right side when doing the right side valve cover and then replace the bolt before taking out the other side (left) out. Use a piece of wood on the oil pan and You should be fine. When doing the timing chains You can use the BIG zip ties to hold the chains together when removing the tensioners and arms and guides. You may need to turn the cam sprocket a little to get the the parts back in. Always check the timing marks b4 putting it back together, it's not that hard really.


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Thanks. Help me understand why you should loosen only one at a time. Should I tighten one back down before I loosen the other? Seems to me this would stress the other bolt as the opposing side gets lifted. Maybe I'm not fully understanding the geometry of the parts.

When you say big zip ties, do you mean the ones that are wide? I have long zip ties that could easily wrap around opposing links on each chain to keep then from moving, but they're pretty standard width.

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