EATC Blend Door Actuator

[01MercGMLS]

I have the 024 code and 025 code on my EATC I'm looking for instructions to replace this part.

Thanks in advance,
Aaron

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[crownvic05]

I have that same code. Theres a few of youtube videos on this. You can skip removing the whole dash. Im waiting on the weather to cool down into the high 60s to start doing this. Suppose to be about 1.5 to 2 hours with out removing the whole dash.

[01MercGMLS]

I have that same code. Theres a few of youtube videos on this. You can skip removing the whole dash. Im waiting on the weather to cool down into the high 60s to start doing this. Suppose to be about 1.5 to 2 hours with out removing the whole dash.I'm just getting tired of needing heat in the morning but getting cold air. Do the reset and get 100% hot air. Nothing in between. Then... in the afternoon when I leave work I get boiling heat again. Do the reset 3 or 4 times and finally get AC.

I'm willing to do the work the easiest way possible. If I can avoid removing the dash I'd like that.

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[BAD MERC]

I have seen it done on my car. Carfixer pulled the dash about a foot from the firewall and saved me when mine was just out of warranty. I have heard stories of doing it without dash removal. If given the chance I'd pay it forward and do it just to provide step by step pics.

[Spectragod]

Can be done without removing the dash, I’ve done 3-4 dozen, I manufactured a couple of tools to expedite the procedure, takes me a touch over an hour.

Without the tools I made, it is probably a 2-3 hour job if you’ve done it before.


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[crownvic05]

Can be done without removing the dash, I’ve done 3-4 dozen, I manufactured a couple of tools to expedite the procedure, takes me a touch over an hour.

Without the tools I made, it is probably a 2-3 hour job if you’ve done it before.


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You sell the tools?

[Spectragod]

You sell the tools?



No, don’t want that liability, without said home brewed tools, just remove all bolts from the right side and loosen the left. Use a ratchet strap on the right side to hold the dash to the rear, still not a big deal. Airbag and glovebox will need to come out too.


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[01MercGMLS]

No, don’t want that liability, without said home brewed tools, just remove all bolts from the right side and loosen the left. Use a ratchet strap on the right side to hold the dash to the rear, still not a big deal. Airbag and glovebox will need to come out too.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThe airbag is what concerns me.

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[crownvic05]

Air bag on passenger side is easy. Unplug the negative from battery, and remove the screws for the air bag and unplug from behind. Its no biggie.

[Invective]

Hoping my EATC never fails but many of the numerous youtube tutorials are interesting. Who doesn't want to save $1000?

[RF Overlord]

You sell the tools?


No, don’t want that liability

Just curious what liability there would be? Would you at least consider posting a couple of pics of said tools?

[fairlane347]

I jut did mine too, it not to bad to do have patients. Also my boys smalls hands came in helpful getting screws in and out behind the dash. No need to pull the whole dash. just the trim and the air bag.

[Spectragod]

Just curious what liability there would be? Would you at least consider posting a couple of pics of said tools?


Liability, you know how people are these days, hurt themselves on anything and sue.


As far as pictures, nope, I made them, had to cut apart some expensive tools to make it happen, not cost effective if your just doing 1, and, it's my design, not patented, so I don't want it stolen and have it produced for profit.


But if your in southwest Ohio, I can put it in while you wait.:D

[decipha]

I know im a couple weeks late but this is good timing, my actuator just went out 3 days ago on my way to work while cruising along out of nowhere my vent starting blowing ridiculously hot air. It was absolutely horrific considering how hot it was outside when it happened it damn near choked me as i had it on blast with the windows up and the passengers vents closed.

in any case, i changed the actuator yesterday morning. It took me about an hour and 15 minutes to complete. I just used a regular tool set no special tools needed. I've owned numerous fords over the years and never had one go bad. Apparently this is a pretty common failure part. If it makes you feel any better this was my first time doing one and it went extremely smooth and simple really nothing to it at all.

A little tip, its much easier to just remove the 2 bolts holding the glove box in and remove it. Makes life much easier. I didn't initially and while bolting up the ac duct I had a socket fall between the dash and glove box mount and could not get it out without removing the glove box. It also gives a LOT more room to work on things.

Another thing note worthy, I have average size hands and I had to really stretch to reach the back bolts with just barely my finger tips. Someone with slightly larger hands than average would have a much easier time reaching the back bolts as its all in the fingers.

I find it helps if you put a socket on the bolts (the ratch wont fit) and use a small pair of pliers to grab the socket to crack them loose. You can then remove them very easily. It took me roughly 30 minutes to get the dash torn apart and the old one out. I'm pretty meticulous about my vehicle so my re-assembly of the dash parts involved a good bit of cleaning. My ac duct was pretty dirty. I also cleaned back up inside the dash as well while i was at it.

01mercgmls... if it makes you feel any better I didn't bother to disconnect the battery when i did it. I just simply unbolted the airbag unplugged it and set it in the back til i was done. When I hooked it back up I had the car running too when i plugged it back in as I was making sure the actuator was good to go. Its almost impossible for an airbag to go off accidentally. I've seen accidents where airbags didn't even gone off when they should have lol.

[fastblackmerc]

I use one of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/General-Tools-Standard-Ratchet-Screwdriver-Set-5-Piece-Lot-of-1/112228125783?hash=item1a21514c 57:g:VLkAAOSwlAZaZp3T:rk:1:pf: 0

and this socket adapter:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-3-8-1-2-Power-Drill-Bit-Driver-Hex-Socket-Bar-Wrench-Adapter-Extension-FD/153187076452?hash=item23aaa949 64:m:mLM5nTAzd60OQg2Vu_VJiZg:r k:15:pf:0

[01MercGMLS]

Decipha... thank you for this! One question... I want to order the part from RockAuto to save money but there are so many different choices. Different part numbers and different manufacturers as well. Which one is the correct one? Can you give me a part number?

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[fastblackmerc]

Decipha... thank you for this! One question... I want to order the part from RockAuto to save money but there are so many different choices. Different part numbers and different manufacturers as well. Which one is the correct one? Can you give me a part number?

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Get the Motorcraft one. Aftermarket ones have a habit of failing shortly after you install it.

P/N: XW7Z-19E616-BA or YH1766

[01MercGMLS]

Awesome! Thanks bud!

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[decipha]

yea don't contaminate your vehicle with inferior parts, stick with motorcraft

[01MercGMLS]

yea don't contaminate your vehicle with inferior parts, stick with motorcraftA couple of the non Motorcraft brand products have long warranties. That was the only reason I was considering them.

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[RF Overlord]

What good is a long warranty when the $20 part fails and it takes you another 3 hours to R&R? I'd rather have the replacement part last a long time, than get free ones under warranty 3-4 times.

[01MercGMLS]

What good is a long warranty when the $20 part fails and it takes you another 3 hours to R&R? I'd rather have the replacement part last a long time, than get free ones under warranty 3-4 times.Good point. Thank you for that!

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[fastblackmerc]

A couple of the non Motorcraft brand products have long warranties. That was the only reason I was considering them.

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If your doing the job once, you don't want to do it again!

[01MercGMLS]

That bad huh...? I'm starting to get concerned here.
If your doing the job once, you don't want to do it again!

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[fastblackmerc]

That bad huh...? I'm starting to get concerned here.

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Just use a genuine Motorcraft part.

[01MercGMLS]

Just use a genuine Motorcraft part.That I can handle. I'm just more concerned about the disassembly and reassembly now. Everybody makes it seem like it's a pain in the ass then this other guy a little bit ago and said that it's not too bad and he did it in an hour and a half. I'm not sure what to believe anymore. LOL

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[fastblackmerc]

That I can handle. I'm just more concerned about the disassembly and reassembly now. Everybody makes it seem like it's a pain in the ass then this other guy a little bit ago and said that it's not too bad and he did it in an hour and a half. I'm not sure what to believe anymore. LOL

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Even doing it correct way - pulling the dash out of the way - it's only a 2-3 hour job.

[01MercGMLS]

Even doing it correct way - pulling the dash out of the way - it's only a 2-3 hour job.Only...? LOL

That's really not bad.

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[Keith]

Kudos to the expertise available on this forum, again. Great people here.

My BDA stopped functioning 2 days ago, just like that, no warning. I got on here for awhile yesterday and looked up everything I could find on the BDA. Did the self test and confirmed that the BDA was the problem. (Code 025)

Somewhere in all of the "stickies" I found a statement that said:

"Doing the EATC Self Test 3 - 5 times in a row can sometimes fix a BDA problem."

Did this and hallelujah, problem fixed. What a great source of info we have here!

Question: Does fixing the BDA in this way imply anything about the BDA? Is this a problem that will start to happen again and again? Did I just fix the symptom and not the root problem? Maybe I should start looking for the right P/N BDA and prepare for a more permanent fix?

Thanks again,

Keith in Houston
'04 DTR

[a_d_a_m]

Yeah, you're probably just 'kicking the can down the road' so to speak.

[fastblackmerc]

Kudos to the expertise available on this forum, again. Great people here.

My BDA stopped functioning 2 days ago, just like that, no warning. I got on here for awhile yesterday and looked up everything I could find on the BDA. Did the self test and confirmed that the BDA was the problem. (Code 025)

Somewhere in all of the "stickies" I found a statement that said:

"Doing the EATC Self Test 3 - 5 times in a row can sometimes fix a BDA problem."

Did this and hallelujah, problem fixed. What a great source of info we have here!

Question: Does fixing the BDA in this way imply anything about the BDA? Is this a problem that will start to happen again and again? Did I just fix the symptom and not the root problem? Maybe I should start looking for the right P/N BDA and prepare for a more permanent fix?

Thanks again,

Keith in Houston
'04 DTR
Yes it will happen again. Who knows when.

[Zack]

A plastic gear tooth breaks in the actuator. It will stop working again....soon

[Keith]

Yeah, you're probably just 'kicking the can down the road' so to speak.

Thanks to Adam, FastBlack, and Zack, that's what I needed. I'll take care of it permanently.

My gut feel was right on this one - it sure seemed way too easy.


Keith in Houston
'04 DTR
MartyO Tune 'in the mail'

[Svashtar]

That I can handle. I'm just more concerned about the disassembly and reassembly now. Everybody makes it seem like it's a pain in the ass then this other guy a little bit ago and said that it's not too bad and he did it in an hour and a half. I'm not sure what to believe anymore. LOL

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^^^This^^^. Exactly. From reading you can see that it’s obviously a pain in the ass, unless you’ve done it several times, and after reading for two hours I have three usable tips that I can use: 1) disconnect the negative battery terminal for the airbag, 2) remove the radio, 3) take out the glove box. Not sure where to even find the right side bolts to remove and the left side bolts to loosen.

There’s no way I’m going to be prying out my dash bezel or pulling stuff out from under the dash or even trying to remove the airbag without having clear instructions and tips to not break something, so I’ll check YouTube as mentioned.

The extent of my “dash” work has been to pull out the instrument cluster to add gauges and move the cigarette lighter over, and this looks a bit more involved!




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[01MercGMLS]

^^^This^^^. Exactly. From reading you can see that it’s obviously a pain in the ass, unless you’ve done it several times, and after reading for two hours I have three usable tips that I can use: 1) disconnect the negative battery terminal for the airbag, 2) remove the radio, 3) take out the glove box. Not sure where to even find the right side bolts to remove and the left side bolts to loosen.

There’s no way I’m going to be prying out my dash bezel or pulling stuff out from under the dash or even trying to remove the airbag without having clear instructions and tips to not break something, so I’ll check YouTube as mentioned.

The extent of my “dash” work has been to pull out the instrument cluster to add gauges and move the cigarette lighter over, and this looks a bit more involved!




Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAnd ^^^this^^^ is why mine still isn't done.

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[Svashtar]

And ^^^this^^^ is why mine still isn't done.

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Well, obviously it’s doable because a bunch of guys have figured it out and done it. But, I have unique skills like I said, and the first time I took off the cover for the window / door lock controls I snapped the back tab off, and had to come up with a repair. This is why after 18 months I still haven’t sent my dead light panel switches to Jim.

I figure if I can stumble through changing out the airbags and solenoids, and pulling down the overhead and fixing the compass, and installing the blower motor speed control module behind DR’s rear engine cooling mod, and doing the OF housing gasket yesterday, and other stuff I never thought I could do, I can do this too, but am definitely going slow. There aren’t exactly a lot of MM replacement parts out there any more.

[01MercGMLS]

Well, obviously it’s doable because a bunch of guys have figured it out and done it. But, I have unique skills like I said, and the first time I took off the cover for the window / door lock controls I snapped the back tab off, and had to come up with a repair. This is why after 18 months I still haven’t sent my dead light panel switches to Jim.

I figure if I can stumble through changing out the airbags and solenoids, and pulling down the overhead and fixing the compass, and installing the blower motor speed control module behind DR’s rear engine cooling mod, and doing the OF housing gasket yesterday, and other stuff I never thought I could do, I can do this too, but am definitely going slow. There aren’t exactly a lot of MM replacement parts out there any more.

The lack of parts is one of the reasons I haven't pulled the trigger on a Marauder yet. I've wanted one for many years and I still love the car but I just can't do it. I'm stuck with my Grand Marquis. At least those have a huge group of salvage vehicles to pick through when you need a part.

With that in mind... My dash will be a little easier I would imagine since I have a column shifter. You guys with console shifters might have more trouble.

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[Agent2006]

The lack of parts is one of the reasons I haven't pulled the trigger on a Marauder yet. I've wanted one for many years and I still love the car but I just can't do it. I'm stuck with my Grand Marquis. At least those have a huge group of salvage vehicles to pick through when you need a part.

With that in mind... My dash will be a little easier I would imagine since I have a column shifter. You guys with console shifters might have more trouble.

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I thought about that too, as I trundled around town in my MGM. Then I said WTF...I'm going for it.

The unique parts aren't that many:

---cross over tube --you can get some one to fab you one, install your own fill adpater if yours does not leak but is stuck, or pay $300 bucks
---PCM ---that's the biggie = $400 bucks and you have to wait because they have no cores available
---ABS module ---unique because of the staggered tire sizes, costs $100 to get rebuild done
---overhead compass = who cares
---speedo cluster --they are out there used. $150 or so..
---air ride parts ---same as a zillion town cars or MGMs
--engine parts --mostly the same as Lincoln aviator --hopefully you can reuse your front cover.
--fog lights same part as on some Mazdas
---front/rear bumper covers --repros are out there

And --- for some MGM parts, the popular ones disappear in the JY or that JY part as the same issue yours does...a false sense of security

[01MercGMLS]

I thought about that too, as I trundled around town in my MGM. Then I said WTF...I'm going for it.

The unique parts aren't that many:

---cross over tube --you can get some one to fab you one, install your own fill adpater if yours does not leak but is stuck, or pay $300 bucks
---PCM ---that's the biggie = $400 bucks and you have to wait because they have no cores available
---ABS module ---unique because of the staggered tire sizes, costs $100 to get rebuild done
---overhead compass = who cares
---speedo cluster --they are out there used. $150 or so..
---air ride parts ---same as a zillion town cars or MGMs
--engine parts --mostly the same as Lincoln aviator --hopefully you can reuse your front cover.
--fog lights same part as on some Mazdas
---front/rear bumper covers --repros are out there

And --- for some MGM parts, the popular ones disappear in the JY or that JY part as the same issue yours does...a false sense of securityI've really never lost complete interest just haven't really been looking. I guess you're right and as for the air ride, you can also delete that if you're so inclined. So I guess it's not as bad as I thought.

Now... to find a low mileage silver... hmm.

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[Glenn-ho]

my turn ordered motorcraft actuator from amazon. will replace without pulling dash and report back any issues.

[redmercy04]

my turn ordered motorcraft actuator from amazon. will replace without pulling dash and report back any issues.How did it go

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[tylerdurden2816]

AND now it's my turn! Ordering the part today. Anyone have a best/favorite How to video on YouTube that they could share here with me, a good step by step that doesn't require removing the entire dash?

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[moldymac]

Just did this last week following some youtube videos for guidance. Pulled the airbag and glove box, fought the air duct out of the way. Unbolted the upper dash screws and the lower nut in the passenger kick panel, then pulled the dash away and propped it with a chunk of 2x4. Had just enough room to shove my hands in there. Front bolt came out with a 1/4" ratchet, rears I had to use a box wrench / socket with my fingers and eventually got them out, there's little space above those to get a ratchet in there. Install was reverse, and yes I used a motorcraft part. All in all the job wasn't terrible and took me about an hour, but I'm used to doing stuff like this.

[Svashtar]

Just did this last week following some youtube videos for guidance. Pulled the airbag and glove box, fought the air duct out of the way. Unbolted the upper dash screws and the lower nut in the passenger kick panel, then pulled the dash away and propped it with a chunk of 2x4. Had just enough room to shove my hands in there. Front bolt came out with a 1/4" ratchet, rears I had to use a box wrench / socket with my fingers and eventually got them out, there's little space above those to get a ratchet in there. Install was reverse, and yes I used a motorcraft part. All in all the job wasn't terrible and took me about an hour, but I'm used to doing stuff like this.

I’m impressed. I’ve had the new Motorcraft part sitting on my bench for over a year. Right now mine is stuck on A/C, which works for me, and last year I was able to get it to switch to heat enough to get me thru a very mild winter here.

Along with this I need to change the O-rings in the system, AND figure out how to remove the radio. One of the four holes for the radio is blocked with a broken piece of metal bar stock, and can’t be removed, so I need to remove the radio the old fashioned way.

I have a feeling this is one of those all day tasks, not an hour.

As I found out yesterday while changing the alternator on a 2006 Hyundai Tucson, YouTube is definitely your friend, although some of the guys offering advice often gloss over some key details.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Both links show a missing page.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Currently, my floor and defrost are blowing out the vents. The heat will only come on when the engine is fully warmed otherwise it is cold.
My A/C is also working properly.
My 04 is 16 years old. I replaced the Blend Door Actuator in it about 8 years ago.
The WORST part Ford Makes. Plastic gears break. My '97 Continental needed it twice, and I replaced my MKS's for a second time last year. (The MKS has 3 blend door actuators. The one that needed replacing twice was right behind the glove box.)

[fastblackmerc]

Run the EATC self-test. let us know what codes you receive.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Can you remind me how to do it?


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[1Marauder]

Cali Marauders, I have same issue. Maybe we can get together and do all three!

[fastblackmerc]

Can you remind me how to do it?


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https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?99619-FOUR-MOST-COMMON-MARAUDER-HVAC-PROBLEMS

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Thanks for the link again.

[1Marauder]

Have same issue. Air through correct vents, but all cold all the time (not hot). Searched MN.net (thank you all), CV.net, and UTube.

Ran the EATC test and popped code 24 or 024 = Blend Door.

Had read somewhere to adjust temp to different numbers (most drivers have a cold number and a hot number they use predominantly), and near end of EATC test to "jostle" the blend door unit. I adjusted my temp from 90 down to 75, and ran the test again.

As it went through its "test" I jostled the dash and unit and it adjusted! 75 degree Air now through defrost. Notes then said to unplug unit ? when at desired temp, to keep it set there until unit can be replaced.

I stopped while I was ahead (as it was getting dark), as I can now defrost windshield AND not cook at 90 all day everyday. Will see about unplugging unit today.

Still need to change out unit. Ordered new OEM part today $48 shipped.

Hope this helps a little... real time share of data found online, and actual first had application result.

[fastblackmerc]

Have same issue. Air through correct vents, but all cold all the time (not hot). Searched MN.net (thank you all), CV.net, and UTube.

Ran the EATC test and popped code 24 or 024 = Blend Door.

Had read somewhere to adjust temp to different numbers (most drivers have a cold number and a hot number they use predominantly), and near end of EATC test to "jostle" the blend door unit. I adjusted my temp from 90 down to 75, and ran the test again.

As it went through its "test" I jostled the dash and unit and it adjusted! 75 degree Air now through defrost. Notes then said to unplug unit ? when at desired temp, to keep it set there until unit can be replaced.

I stopped while I was ahead (as it was getting dark), as I can now defrost windshield AND not cook at 90 all day everyday. Will see about unplugging unit today.

Still need to change out unit. Ordered new OEM part today $48 shipped.

Hope this helps a little... real time share of data found online, and actual first had application result.

Most of the time running the self-test multiple times will "reset" the actuator. It will continue to work for a time.

[Pantera]

What tools are needed for this job?

[fastblackmerc]

What tools are needed for this job?

Small offset ratchet and 5/16 socket for the actuator. More if your going to take the dash part of the way out.

[Franman]

I just graduated! On blend door Wasn’t that bad at all, after I thought “why didn’t I do this a year ago?”

[svtmerc]

I'm wondering, with all the ingenuity here, why doesn't someone make and sell a replacement gear for the actuator made of brass or aluminum?

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[fastblackmerc]

The cost of the gear would outweigh the cost of a new actuator.