2003 MM Rear end build guidance appreciated.

[IndyMerc]

I have a 2003 with 146,000 miles and the rear end is leaking and the clutches are gone, after knowing about the axles and needing a rebuild anyway i decided to grab a core from a 2006 marquis.

The core is getting sent to sand blast and powder coat this weekend. I need to start ordering parts.

The only thing i planned on keeping from the donor core were the 31 spline axles and the housing,

I want to go with an eaton true track.

model #
Eaton 913A561 Detroit Truetrac 8.8" 31 Spline Differential

as far as gear choices are concerned Ive decided the gear ratio i want but on ordering the pinion spline i need advice,

I wanted to go with a set of US lightning gears and Ford 8.8" Ring and Pinion Installation Kit with Koyo ST41901 Inner Pinion Bearings but dont know if any are compatible, since I have not taken the car apart yet in case i still need to drive it for emergencies.

what other parts should I get?

the stock rear end looks in great shape and I feel confident the core and axles will hold up to the gear change and a simple tune.

after 15 years of working on turbo Mitsubishi's I picked this up last year and its just a totally different animal, I love driving the car and want to keep it as a driver for a long time, since this issue came up i am tackling it first and want to get her back on the road proper, and with the help of my neighbor a shop teacher I feel confident with quality parts the job can be done well, any help would be appreciated, I am located on the east side of Indianapolis for any fellow MM'ers.

Thanks in Advance, I look forward to having the car rebuilt over the next few years.

[Comin' in Hot]

I have to start off by saying I’m not trying to be critical of your gear and bearing choices.... but I’m wondering why you wouldn’t use Ford Performance parts? They’re proven to be very reliable, I don’t understand why are you trying to reinvent something that’s been done millions of times?

I like your differential choice, I think you’ll be happy.

Here is a list I put together that might help:

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88972

[minimarine09]

I too, came from the dsm/evo world.

Different animal indeed, from what I gather, an 8.8 is an 8.8. No matter the internal part, As long as it's advertised for the 8.8. then it should work. All that is needed for a rebuild is the l/r carrier bearings and races(2), pinion bearings and races (2) and correct shims for both the carrier and pinion. Marking compound to check the pattern, and a dial indicator setup for proper back lash, axle bearings / seals.

What gears are you going with? What are your plans for the car?

Not sure if I answered your question though lol

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[IndyMerc]

As I understand the higher the gear ratio the smaller the pinion bearing, and since I plan to do a higher hp N/A build over the next couple years, combined with the MM is a relatively heavy machine I would rather build it tough and have it last for the small extra cost. I wanted to go with the stronger steel allegedly used in the US gear lightning product.

I have nothing against ford parts but I have no reason to believe they are the best either. Given my overall experience with ford parts they seem to be about average to me, and in certain applications I tend to use them, I am more inclined to use ford parts for things I can change more easily that gearing in a rear end, depending on the garage available this can be a pretty big and messy job.

I myself am not trying to reinvent anything, just make the best selections for my budget from what the market has available.

I am open to suggestions and cases for why other gears may be better but I have a bit of an affinity for fine steels. Crown gears are just stratospheric in cost to justify.

My intended purpose is for it to last and have some sporty driving fun. I like it as a frequent to daily driver except in bad weather and have fun driving it. I like being able to keep up with and in most cases deal with modern heavy footed traffic.

my overall goals are a built up 450hp N/A engine

with a rugged 4 speed.

some suspension work, what the usual people have suggested in the forum,

a full LED conversion

and a red leather interior.

a full debadge, along with a 2008 marquis tail light and trunk swap.

1997 steering wheel.

I had 6 DSM's two with fully built motors one was a 4g64t. 1 frame off build. they were a lot of fun but I ended up with this and after driving this for about 2 years really fell in love with it. I love the DSM/Evo platforms and may pick one up still but Now that I have a v8 its really my preference.

Well I appreciate everyones input. I will consider everyones suggestions and experience in my parts order.

Why cant I Buy all new races?
I have a nice dial indicator setup. I have kept all the parts so far from the donor rear end. Just curious as to why Its a must to re use any old parts other than the obvious carrier bearings.

thanks for the parts list link, I will look all of those up tonight after work.

[Ambitious1]

... why you wouldn’t use Ford Performance parts? They’re proven to be very reliable, I don’t understand why are you trying to reinvent something that’s been done millions of times?

I like your differential choice, I think you’ll be happy.

Here is a list I put together that might help:

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88972

+1 on this. This would be a very good option.

[fastblackmerc]

I used Ford Performance ring and pinion and my installer didn't have to change any of the shims.

[NorthShoreChiMM]

Are you using the stock mod motor and planing to build that up, from what I've heard, 450 is impossible na.

[justbob]

I know that there is at least two different carrier bearings out there. I think the difference is in the width. Not sure which one it is that we use.

I highly suggest a solid pinion spacer instead of the crush washer. A stud kit and girdle are nice upgrades as well.

I chose Yukon gear for my set up as I knocked half the teeth off my 4.30’s with the manual trans. That was back when it was only 460 RWHP. It’s been 704 for three years now without issue. I figured Yukon has a great name in the off road world and it wouldn’t hurt to try it. Glad I did.


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[minimarine09]

As I understand the higher the gear ratio the smaller the pinion bearing, and since I plan to do a higher hp N/A build over the next couple years, combined with the MM is a relatively heavy machine I would rather build it tough and have it last for the small extra cost. I wanted to go with the stronger steel allegedly used in the US gear lightning product.

I have nothing against ford parts but I have no reason to believe they are the best either. Given my overall experience with ford parts they seem to be about average to me, and in certain applications I tend to use them, I am more inclined to use ford parts for things I can change more easily that gearing in a rear end, depending on the garage available this can be a pretty big and messy job.

I myself am not trying to reinvent anything, just make the best selections for my budget from what the market has available.

I am open to suggestions and cases for why other gears may be better but I have a bit of an affinity for fine steels. Crown gears are just stratospheric in cost to justify.

My intended purpose is for it to last and have some sporty driving fun. I like it as a frequent to daily driver except in bad weather and have fun driving it. I like being able to keep up with and in most cases deal with modern heavy footed traffic.

my overall goals are a built up 450hp N/A engine

with a rugged 4 speed.

some suspension work, what the usual people have suggested in the forum,

a full LED conversion

and a red leather interior.

a full debadge, along with a 2008 marquis tail light and trunk swap.

1997 steering wheel.

I had 6 DSM's two with fully built motors one was a 4g64t. 1 frame off build. they were a lot of fun but I ended up with this and after driving this for about 2 years really fell in love with it. I love the DSM/Evo platforms and may pick one up still but Now that I have a v8 its really my preference.

Well I appreciate everyones input. I will consider everyones suggestions and experience in my parts order.

Why cant I Buy all new races?
I have a nice dial indicator setup. I have kept all the parts so far from the donor rear end. Just curious as to why Its a must to re use any old parts other than the obvious carrier bearings.

thanks for the parts list link, I will look all of those up tonight after work.When I went from 4.30s to 3.73.and then to 3.27, my pinion bearings and shims were all the same iirc. It's been a while though. The 8.8 is pretty stout and has gone some pretty quick 60' In stock form. Granted not in a 2ton car, but then again we aren't cutting like a 1.3 60' either lol. Ford / Ford racing isn't the "best" but they are proven, especially in the rear end game, they've been doing it for a while.

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[IndyMerc]

Thanks Bob! a solid pinion spacer and stud kit and girdle are a 100% go, much appreciated.


as for the engine the current unit runs very well. I will cross that road during summer. The mustang cobra guys say they can do 500hp NA on their 4.6 4v. I dont know how much is smoke, if its a pure drag setup etc.

I love the 4v but I am not opposed to going with a the 5.4 ford gt block for the build as I have already been in contact with a shop that builds them. I guess the level of drive ability is subjective as to what a 400hp NA 4.6 would be like, the stock hp levels never felt like the engine was struggling. again Im no engineer but I am sure finding a build with the level of performance I am happy with will not be difficult. any suggestions are also appreciated.

The manual swap sounds awesome I just dont know if it is worth the trouble and cost compared to a beefy auto. All my dsm's were 5 speeds and I miss manual gearboxes.
I have done plenty of transmission replacements and clutch jobs but never built a transmission or converted a car from auto to manual. im guessing the tremec tko 600 is the only choice for cars with this "heft"

My overall philosophy is pretty much in line with the origin of the car, a Super Rad Sport Cruiser with some gusto. There are a lot of nice roads to open up a bit on 8 months out of the year in Indiana.

I did 13 flat in the quarter on pump gas with my dsm talon that had a 4g64t, it was my daily driver for over a year and ran beautifully at 13-17 lbs boost, custom comp cams that were 264's. it dynoed at 317 awhp and 378 trq. had 100mm stroke. super fun car.

this was back in 2007 so yeah Id like something in that ballpark, I sold it to pay for school at the time.

Thanks for all the advice I will research all of these suggestions over the coming week. and post pictures of the install. Y'all have been great!

[justbob]

Thanks Bob! a solid pinion spacer and stud kit and girdle are a 100% go, much appreciated.


as for the engine the current unit runs very well. I will cross that road during summer. The mustang cobra guys say they can do 500hp NA on their 4.6 4v. I dont know how much is smoke, if its a pure drag setup etc.

I love the 4v but I am not opposed to going with a the 5.4 ford gt block for the build as I have already been in contact with a shop that builds them. I guess the level of drive ability is subjective as to what a 400hp NA 4.6 would be like, the stock hp levels never felt like the engine was struggling. again Im no engineer but I am sure finding a build with the level of performance I am happy with will not be difficult. any suggestions are also appreciated.

The manual swap sounds awesome I just dont know if it is worth the trouble and cost compared to a beefy auto. All my dsm's were 5 speeds and I miss manual gearboxes.
I have done plenty of transmission replacements and clutch jobs but never built a transmission or converted a car from auto to manual. im guessing the tremec tko 600 is the only choice for cars with this "heft"

My overall philosophy is pretty much in line with the origin of the car, a Super Rad Sport Cruiser with some gusto. There are a lot of nice roads to open up a bit on 8 months out of the year in Indiana.

I did 13 flat in the quarter on pump gas with my dsm talon that had a 4g64t, it was my daily driver for over a year and ran beautifully at 13-17 lbs boost, custom comp cams that were 264's. it dynoed at 317 awhp and 378 trq. had 100mm stroke. super fun car.

this was back in 2007 so yeah Id like something in that ballpark, I sold it to pay for school at the time.

Thanks for all the advice I will research all of these suggestions over the coming week. and post pictures of the install. Y'all have been great!



I went the hard route with a TR6060 out of a brand new GT500 project car. I do not recommend it unless you are a good fabricator with deep pockets. Manual also puts the absolute hurt on the rear end I learned in the first couple of months. With only the small Trilogy roots blower on the street with street tires I nailed it in first on a roll and crushed the crush washer. Oops. At least I came out of it with a new clock. [emoji16]
https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=106531


Talon like this? [emoji12] (Forgive the recording...) Once again, back when she was on the old blower and automatic ripping off 12.1’s.

https://youtu.be/8ePs5H4210s

The look on that dudes face when I pulled up all quiet like and opened the cut outs I used to have was PRICELESS!

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[Chayton]

Thanks Bob! a solid pinion spacer and stud kit and girdle are a 100% go, much appreciated.


as for the engine the current unit runs very well. I will cross that road during summer. The mustang cobra guys say they can do 500hp NA on their 4.6 4v. I dont know how much is smoke, if its a pure drag setup etc.

I love the 4v but I am not opposed to going with a the 5.4 ford gt block for the build as I have already been in contact with a shop that builds them. I guess the level of drive ability is subjective as to what a 400hp NA 4.6 would be like, the stock hp levels never felt like the engine was struggling. again Im no engineer but I am sure finding a build with the level of performance I am happy with will not be difficult. any suggestions are also appreciated.

The manual swap sounds awesome I just dont know if it is worth the trouble and cost compared to a beefy auto. All my dsm's were 5 speeds and I miss manual gearboxes.
I have done plenty of transmission replacements and clutch jobs but never built a transmission or converted a car from auto to manual. im guessing the tremec tko 600 is the only choice for cars with this "heft"

My overall philosophy is pretty much in line with the origin of the car, a Super Rad Sport Cruiser with some gusto. There are a lot of nice roads to open up a bit on 8 months out of the year in Indiana.

I did 13 flat in the quarter on pump gas with my dsm talon that had a 4g64t, it was my daily driver for over a year and ran beautifully at 13-17 lbs boost, custom comp cams that were 264's. it dynoed at 317 awhp and 378 trq. had 100mm stroke. super fun car.

this was back in 2007 so yeah Id like something in that ballpark, I sold it to pay for school at the time.

Thanks for all the advice I will research all of these suggestions over the coming week. and post pictures of the install. Y'all have been great!

500 hp? NA? on a 4v? you sure you aren't getting these stats in reference to the 2003 mustang cobra engine, which came stock with a blower on top?

[IndyMerc]

were those gears stock? that's a crazy launch!!!

Well I knew some came with a blower, may have been the 4.6 terminator they didn't specify. I like that front spoiler, Ill have to snag one.

I prefer N/A I know the 5.4 cobra R had around 400 N/A that was a limited edition mustang. I don't want to resort to a cast iron block though either.

[IndyMerc]

could be fluff but here is a video of a guy dyno'ing his mach 1.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoYIgjhHgvQ

[minimarine09]

were those gears stock? that's a crazy launch!!!

Well I knew some came with a blower, may have been the 4.6 terminator they didn't specify. I like that front spoiler, Ill have to snag one.

I prefer N/A I know the 5.4 cobra R had around 400 N/A that was a limited edition mustang. I don't want to resort to a cast iron block though either.The "terminator" is the 03/04 cobra. They have a 4v aswell but has a blower and has forged internals from factory. You would be extremely hard pressed IMHO to get 450rwhp out of suck small displacement, especially through an auto.

I would go 5.4 if you are dead set on an N/A setup just my .02

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[RubberCtyRauder]

Nobody on here since the start of this site has been over 400 rwhp in a na 4.6 marauder. Might want to research further. Use Google and search using g mercurymarauder.net added into your subject.

[IndyMerc]

5.4 it is! So the block im looking for is the Ford M-6010-GT

is this a good place to start? I know the actual ford GT blocks are hard to come by.

https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/m20ProductDisplayView?catalogI d=10002&langId=-1&productId=1421387&storeId=10001

[justgod]

The deck height is taller. You’ll need an aftermarket hood and a 5.4 intake also.

Here’s a good rear end rebuild guide by the way:

https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-88-traclok-kit-cust-install.html

[IndyMerc]

what does everyone think about having the stock rear end weld mod, the axle tube to the housing all the way around on the outside. is this necessary for our more modern 8.8 housings?

[musclemerc]

I welded mine. Didn't go all the way around though. 3 long welds with a stick on each side. If you plan on using MIG you have to heat the center section first because its cast steel.

[justbob]

what does everyone think about having the stock rear end weld mod, the axle tube to the housing all the way around on the outside. is this necessary for our more modern 8.8 housings?



If you do just make sure to tack it very well. I have heard of tubes moving from the heat just enough to kill bearings repeatedly and it goes without saying all related parts. Especially the case on back brace only weld jobs.

Best possible way is on a table in a jig till cooled.


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[IndyMerc]

I don't have a welder so I will take it to a local shop this week, one hopefully with experience doing this sort of thing.

[IndyMerc]

also are there any objections to using stock 31 spline axles out of the 2006 rear end?

Not trying to cheap out or anything but if they are good enough for my intended use I have no problem using them. they were out of a 2006 marquis with a 2.73 open diff.

just getting my parts list finalized.

also with the detroit true trac is this a c clip style diff? I have never used one or been able to examine one up close to see what method of axle retention it uses.

[justgod]

Here’s the difference between our stock 28 spline axles and the 31s I pulled out of my crown Vic along with its 31 spline LSD that I put a carbon fiber clutch pack into to swap into my MM:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181029/606b29ab72b7740009ce53c4eaeecc cb.jpg

[justbob]

also are there any objections to using stock 31 spline axles out of the 2006 rear end?



Not trying to cheap out or anything but if they are good enough for my intended use I have no problem using them. they were out of a 2006 marquis with a 2.73 open diff.



just getting my parts list finalized.



also with the detroit true trac is this a c clip style diff? I have never used one or been able to examine one up close to see what method of axle retention it uses.



Stock 31’s are just fine. Yes, C clip.



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[hotford]

well if your looking for the complete bearings, races, etc i have a complete overhaul kit that i ordered in for a member here(not gonna mention his name) that never came for the kit, its all OEM ford stuff and i can let you have it for 150 plus pp fees and the ride.
let me know and i can pm you the parts list with part numbers.

[IndyMerc]

Thanks guys, The stock 31 spline axles look great, also after counting the spline on the pinion bearing its a 30 spline. after cleaning off the bearings I noticed it came with koyo and timken for the pinion section and torrington for the axle bearings. I wonder if this is normal for the 2006 8.8's. The differential housing and seals were stamped ford for that matter. I didnt bother pulling the pinion bearing off the pinion to see what it was but for anyone interested.

with the housing fully disassembled I am trying to get a way to weld the tubes to the center section. Do I learn how to weld and buy a welder "Ive wanted to learn and get one for years anyway" or continue to search out someone to do the job.

Koyo M802011-N

Timken M88048 097
Timken M88010 097


Torrington DB-67309

Thanks Hotrod I have not decided on bearings yet, but that sounds like a good idea.
PM it over, you can email me also @ evanpaulsmith21@gmail.com

[IndyMerc]

diff and gear set ordered.

is there a major difference between the doorman and metco lower control arm and watts link parts?

is the improvement over stock just due to stiffness?

is there a complete poly bushing kit for our cars? I have looked but been unable to find any.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Huge difference, dorman vs metco. Dorman stamped steel rubber bushings, metco billet aluminum, urethane bushings, greasable and far stiffer ,compliments car feel and handling

[Lowndex]

Nobody on here since the start of this site has been over 400 rwhp in a na 4.6 marauder. Might want to research further. Use Google and search using g mercurymarauder.net added into your subject.

Current record holder is Fordnut at 378 rwhp NA. I have a bet with four members I can beat it. With my car at MO's Speed Shop, all things are possible with $$$$$$ and their talent. Maybe dump the TrickFlow (https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-52900515) and go Jesel (http://www.jesel.com/valvetrain/index.php/rockers/pro-series).

[justgod]

Current record holder is Fordnut at 378 rwhp NA. I have a bet with four members I can beat it. With my car at MO's Speed Shop, all things are possible with $$$$$$ and their talent. Maybe dump the TrickFlow (https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-52900515) and go Jesel (http://www.jesel.com/valvetrain/index.php/rockers/pro-series).

Let’s say you get 400rwhp NA. I’m curious, exactly how long, how much time, energy and money has been spent to get to 400? Didn’t you start that in 09? Just supercharge the damn thing and be done with it. You’ll be so much happier. You can buy a freaking Honda that’ll beat that at 400rwhp now.

[Mr. Man]

Current record holder is Fordnut at 378 rwhp NA. I have a bet with four members I can beat it. With my car at MO's Speed Shop, all things are possible with $$$$$$ and their talent. Maybe dump the TrickFlow (https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-52900515) and go Jesel (http://www.jesel.com/valvetrain/index.php/rockers/pro-series).Why do you constantly say this? While FordNuts numbers a impressive, his is not the N/A rwhp leader. You want the record you need to be North of 400rwhp. Hope you can do it.

[IndyMerc]

I know 400rwhp can be done on an N/A 4.6 dohc motor its just at what expense and drive ability.

[vkirkend]

Why are you are averse to just going blower setup?

[NorthShoreChiMM]

If your going jesel you better have deep pockets. I bet they have titanium valve keepers dipped in the roman holy waters doused with the popes prayers

[justbob]

Why are you are averse to just going blower setup?



He’s not. He is simply hitting an NA goal then slapping a blower on.


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[IndyMerc]

superchargers are hard on the engine, perticularly the bearings.

I dont hate them, but they are expensive for an add on, for a perticular budget high or low I would rather have a high end N/A engine than a mediocre blower setup.

and personally do not think superchargers sound good. the only one I would pay money for would be a centrifugal type.

If I decide to go with forced induction I will go with a twin turbo setup.

I would like a hot 5.4 but I am considering a teksid 4.6 tt build.

Also while I prefer manual transmissions I have had both auto and manual sports cars.

they can both be done up well and If the car was already a manual I would give more consideration to a supercharger but given the fact I am just going to get the strongest auto Guts I can stuff in a 4r70w, Not sure if I should do the 4r75w since im going with a different motor all together why not. I still have to look at what is involved.

that being said the shop that is welding the rear end for me is in greenfield indiana, they are called Rods in Progress and they do fantastic fabrication work, they want to do the manual swap for me go figure. so Atleast if I go that route I have a shop I feel good about. But the more I think about it the main use of the car is bad ass cruising with maybe a road coarse or two a year for *****.

But auto's by nature work well with turbo setups, given the fact I would go dual 57's or 63's something like that its less of a factor because lag will be at a minimum. I have just started looking at cam profiles. I definitly want some low end grunt with some lope and a balanced powerband.

It will take me a couple weeks of research do nail down what compression ratio, turbo size, cam and stroke prof I think is in order for really maximizing the the overall charachteristics of this engine, I have always been more of an auto x, road coarse guy than drag so a lot of information I find is from drag guys half of which is useless toward my plans.

My favorite cams were my 263's in the 2.4 4g64t block with a 20g.

I had and tuned my own DSM link on my old cars. I am not opposed with going to a stand alone ecu.

I have been focused on the rear end, suspension and have not even looked at what a lot of ford guys do for piggy backs, or ecu mods yet. but

its on the radar :)

[IndyMerc]

Here is some progress so far,

They did 3 passes and cleared out the channel in between the axle tube and housing. They did a better job than I could of that is for sure. It will be into sandblast and powder this afternoon.

here is the true track diff.

waiting on gears and misc in the mail.

[justgod]

Did your welder have a glass eye or an eye patch? :D




Lol. As long as it's solid, no one will ever see it where its going anyway.

:beer:

[justbob]

Wow. He is actually a legit welder? Look at the inconsistency, poor to no penetration, and porosity.


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[Joe Walsh]

superchargers are hard on the engine, perticularly the bearings.

I dont hate them, but they are expensive for an add on,
for a particular budget high or low I would rather have a high end N/A engine than a mediocre blower setup.

and personally do not think superchargers sound good. ill have to look at what is involved.

Take it from someone who has been there....$$$

If you are building a 4.6...put some form of forced induction on it.
If you want to stay N/A....ditch the 4.6 and start with a bone stock 460 HP 5.0L Coyote.
OEM, They are light years ahead of the 4.6 technology and durability.
The problem is matching up the computer systems.
BUT... I cant' wait until someone puts a 2018 5.0L Coyote with the new 10 speed auto into a Marauder.
THAT will be the ultimate N/A mod motor Marauder.

An easy 400+ RWHP with a stout 10 speed auto and 7,500 rpm shifts!
Plus better drivability and great MPG.

[IndyMerc]

they do all sorts of fabrication welding on old hot rods and drag cars that is quite good.

I just want it reinforced.

also he said they did three times around, had to tig it because of the two different metals and some other stuff I do not recall.

I would just as soon get a twin turbo 4.6 set up over a stock coyote.
are they really that much better? seems hard to believe. the mach 1 03 and the 16 gt i was in felt almost the same, don't know if any mods were done to the mach but It was not under forced induction.

a built 4.6 turbo seems a no brainer over an oem coyote.

[RubberCtyRauder]

A twin turbo will be all custom., Every piece, just ask member Seneca

[justgod]

also he said they did three times around, had to tig it because of the two different metals and some other stuff I do not recall

I remember making my very first stick welds like that in junior high shop class. I was so proud!

[Joe Walsh]

Did your welder have a glass eye or an eye patch? :D



Wow. He is actually a legit welder? Look at the inconsistency, poor to no penetration, and porosity.




I remember making my very first stick welds like that in junior high shop class. I was so proud!

I'm not a welder,
( I have taken welding classes at the local VoTech....and I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express!)
but I must agree with what the other posters have said;
Those welds look like crap....hopefully he had the steel axle tubes clamped in a fixture while 'welding' them to the cast iron center section.

[IndyMerc]

Well I tend to agree, I can only hope that based on the other work of theirs I have seen that towards the end he got a little more rushed.

You can see where he worked it over in sections I guess the question is how do I check it?

After looking at the shop staff, My guess is that he did the one side himself, the older guy

and the first few passes on the other side and let his new guy have a go after he did the the under stuff on the second side. To learn feeling that he couldn't "hurt it"

Is the quality of the weld job enough to consider not using it?

I will agree that from now on I will do all the work myself regardless of what additional skills I need to learn.

I rarely expect the best in life and work out of other people but Crap definitely agitates me.

That being said a world class welding job show piece is not needed. this is not a show car by any means. I want to build it up to be driven for another decade or two with more power.

That being said I would appreciate being able to ask Seneca about his turbo build and any links to his posts would be great.

I have read that marauder blocks are a little thicker, I have no reservations against using the stock engine for a twin turbo rebuild. wouldn't mind a forged crank like the mach 1 manual came with. don't think a 4340 is necessary.

[justbob]

These blocks and cranks can withstand big power, just ditch the rods and pistons.

The heads flow great as well, just a simple valve job and good to go.


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[justgod]

What a properly welded 8.8 etc. looks like:

[RubberCtyRauder]

Seneca thread about his twin turbo build
https://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=93530

[IndyMerc]

I will be sure and show this to the shop owner.

I will give him a heads up that I did not know about such a reaction would occur when posting and That I want to give him an opportunity to view the situation before I make any determination.

It sounds like, or atleast the impression I get is that I should not go forward with this in its current state. I do not care about the visual aspect merely the integrity of the part.

Thanks for the link to the turbo thread. Very much appreciated.

[MyBlackBeasts]

What a properly welded 8.8 etc. looks like:


Welding porn... I love it! :D

[justgod]

I will be sure and show this to the shop owner.

I will give him a heads up that I did not know about such a reaction would occur when posting and That I want to give him an opportunity to view the situation before I make any determination.

It sounds like, or atleast the impression I get is that I should not go forward with this in its current state. I do not care about the visual aspect merely the integrity of the part.

Thanks for the link to the turbo thread. Very much appreciated.

I'll be honest with you. Both sides of the metals should be freshly sanded/ground to bare metal and good tack welds at opposite sides at minimum before complete welding, which should be done in some sort of jig. Even the Miller welders manual online I believe mentions tube welds with straightness a priority and how to accomplish this. Metal will expand and shrink with heat and cooling. If those aren't straight, you will go though wheel bearings and possibly odd tire wear. Maybe even diff fluid leaking. Just be aware. Also be aware with how you bring this up as the last thing you want to do is piss off the guy welding on your car.

[IndyMerc]

well they spray painted it down to prevent the welds from rusting with rust coloured paint, the irony is not lost on me....

I know for a fact it was ground to clean metal before they welded it I saw it prepped before welding.

This shop literally has welded and fabricated hundred of cars over a 25 year period if not more I don't see it being possible for them not to know.

I just do not know how to explain this really considering the work they have done for other customers.

as far as the owner is concerned I am not trying to offend him, but i do not care if i do they wont be allowed near my car again. And to be honest if this is what was needed for me to plop the money down on a welder and start learning so be it.

My dreams will not be held ransom to crap welders.

To be honest I am not sure if I am going to chance it.

I guess at this point I will see how everything looks and feels during assembly. I know that's not a scientific way to tell but If its messed up because of that I will hand him a folder of documentation explaining what a shop of that type should be capable of, and what potential carelessness does and costs someone as a result.

thank you for the insight.

[IndyMerc]

Has anyone had any experience using the combined seal axle bearings?


such as the CENTRIC 41464000

https://www.carid.com/centric/premium-rear-axle-shaft-repair-bearing-mpn-414-64000.html?view=445535&gclid=Cj0KCQiArenfBRCoARIsAFc1 FqfJjI0cFOmyK-e3tbwdx8bhRA0Yho2UXIqoH9d-Pz_54Kw0F-z9GH8aAh9ZEALw_wcB

or

National Bearing Wheel Bearings NNTRP5707


since there is more material and what looks like a built in race, I would Like to go with that style.

Just not sure if anyone can confirm the fitment. I read one forum where a person said its not compatible with parking brake, and another that basically said it does.