Re-Badging Questions

[Slowpoke]

I finally received the new Mercury god's head logos I ordered to replace the 'waterfall' in the trunk and grill badges. [wheel caps]

Can someone who has removed the factory trunk and grill badge in the past tell me what tools I will need to get the badges off the car? My car is parked far from a tool source and I will need to bring tools with me when I de-badge it. Also any hints for quick removal would be appreciated!

slowpoke

[RF Overlord]

me, too...

[TAF]

It's a LOT easier than I thought...I did it yesterday. Hopefully I can show you why by the end of the week.

FRONT: The most simple

You can go in either from the top or the bottom. I went in from the bottom in my garage. Reach under the front and find the 10mm bolt in the center which holds on the badge. I used just a 10mm socket in my hand, no socket wrench. Loosen to the left (lefty loosy, righty tighty) until the badge is free. This worked well because I didn't have to worry about the bolt falling as it was in the socket. Step back now and take a look at what the grill would look like plain.

REAR: A little tricky but doable

I used a old hotel room key (credit card type) because I didn't want to use a credit card that had numbers of anything on it that could scratch the paint. This badge is held on with 2 pins (one @ 9 o'clock and one @ 3 o'clock...9 being the larger one) and LOTS of black silicone. Force the card all the way around the badge breaking the seal of the silicon. As it starts to pry loose, put the card in just above the left side (9:00) pin as far as you can. Start prying with some sort of tool. Make sure that the head of the tool is on the card underneath for paint protection. I used one of those tiny screwdrivers that you use on computers that's really strong yet small and flat. Carefully pry this side and go to the other side (3:00) with the same process. It will just come right off. Then, just clean all the residual "gook" thats on your trunklid.

Hope this is helpful and that I can show pics of results by the end of the week.

[TAF]

Someone else here told me how to do this. This is not my process, just my experience yesterday doing it. And I am NOT the "handy-type"...just ask my wife.

[Slowpoke]

it's sounds like the front will be easy.

but the back... has anyone actually pried it off? it would make more sense that there is a bolt or something holding it on. If there is no bolt, is the only way to get it back on to use silicone?

slowpoke

[TAF]

No bolt, just the 2 pins that go into the holes in the trunk. Believe me Poke...it was MUCH easier than you might think.

[LincMercLover]

Todd:

And you're replacing these elblems with...? I think I'd rather wait until we get a PRO to make some emblems.

Not that I don't trust my handy work... :up:

[TAF]

Todd:

And you're replacing these elblems with...?

My new Sable emblems!!!!

[LincMercLover]

Harty har har har... :lol:

[MAD-3R]

Ohhhh the mighty Sable....

Beware the Sable...

[TAF]

Patience, my boy...patience.

[Slowpoke]

I bought some god's head wheel centers from Ford. I already ground down the back of them [they come with plastic grippers that are meant to grab the wheel axel] and they now look like oversized 'coins'. I will dremel out the hockey stick waterfalls and use a black silicone to attach the god's head logo inside the chrome-plastic Mercury disc. Someone else did this a while back and posted photos - it looked cool.

I will post a picture of these 'coins' in 40 minutes or so.



slowpoke

[LincMercLover]

Poke:

I just can't bear to grind on my cars origanal badging... If I had an extra, then hell yah!

I thought the God's head detached from the holder? Maybe I was reading something else, but I coulda swore someone said they detach...

Todd:

I'll be waiting for the pics!

[Slowpoke]

finally... here is the picture of the two "coins" i will place into the existing front and rear badges as soon as i can figure out how to remove them - safely - to work on them.

slowpoke

[Slowpoke]

oh.... and they are not actual size... sorry

[TAF]

you didn't think my instructions were safe Poke? I'm tellin' you....I was concerned before I tried it and it worked. I have to say...the rear end completely "naked" looks pretty good...but I will be "re-badging".

[Slowpoke]

ok - i will try to pry it off and see what happens!

[jefferson-mo]

2002 SABLE GRILLE EMBLEM

YF4Z-8213-AB $10.35


:lol: :lol: :lol: :rock: :banana2:

[TAF]

a putty knife will work, as well. Just be sure that your "card" is in between the trunk and the badge.

[Slowpoke]

got 'em off!!!

it took less than 10 minutes!

For the front, I had to unscrew 3 black plastic screws which were holding the 4-foot wide section just above the radiator. I gues this 'apron' keep the rain from running under the hood. The front emblem was held in place with one nut. I think it's smaller than 10 mm, but not by much.

For the trunk deck badge I used a plastic putty scraper [Home Depot]. There are two posts that protrude from the rear badge to hold it on place but these are not secured from the rear. They are easy to locate because there is a black 'dot' before the "M" and after the "Y" in Mercury. It is indeed held in place with some sort of black ultra sticky goo.

After consulting the folks at Home Depot, they suggested using PL Polyurethane Roof & Flashing Sealant (Black). They said it was better than silicone.

If any of you plan to do this - and I expect you will - note that the front badge is 'deeper' than the rear badge. I think I will leave the white plastic backing on the gods head for the front badge so that it does not set too far into the cavity of the badge.

tomorrow i will dremel away the hockey sticks.

Someone posted a picture of the badge just like this but they painted the entire assembly black. I think I will leave it chrome and shiney.

and, of course, i will send pictures when completed.

slowpoke

[TAF]

:up:

[buddie]

hey guys if your just grinding off the waterfalls with a dremmel
why take off the emblem at all .i did mine on the car i was finished
in 15 mins and it looks great

[schuvwj]

Great Idea Buddy!
Are you guys gona show em?

[Slowpoke]

wow - this is definetly NOT easy to do - even with proper tools. Spent and hour on the rear badge this morning and the god's head still does not fit quite right. I am looking to do a perfect job and it will take another hour of grinding and sanding to get it to sit perfectly in the badge. I am having second thoughts about doing the front badge now!

we will see how it progresses.

Incidently, it would be nearly impossible to do this correctly if the badge were still on the car.

slowpoke

[Slowpoke]

I finished the rear badge. Total time about 3 hours!

But it looks great - can't wait to pop it back on the car.
[that black blotch near the bottom is just a reflection. It is ultra clean]


slowpoke

[Directedby]

It looks great.

[RF Overlord]

Damn, slowpoke...I LOVE it...

[Slowpoke]

like I said - it was NOT easy, but definetely worth the time and effort. Now I will spend twice as much time working on the fron badge... different obstacles there... the badge is much larger and once the coin is place where the hockey sticks were there is ¼" gap between it and the badge ring. I want to figure out what to do with the gap before I turn on the power tools...

slowpoke

[Macon Marauder]

WOW!

[KSMM03]

Um, find something that's a 1/4" thick and black to fill the gap?? Maybe something like black PVC of that diameter.....just a thought...

[Directedby]

Use a black sylicone to fill the gap.

[WolfeBros]

WOW !! That looks great Slowpoke, can't wait to see it on the car. :D :D

[Menace]

To bad Mercury did not put the word MARAUDER on the bottom of the badge. Maybe Bob White could help with this ? Looks great though !

[LincMercLover]

I personally don't want Marauder on the badge itself. I think the "Make" badging should be totally separte from the "Model" badging... Just my thoughts...

Poke:

Wanna sell that? I'd trade ya! :D

[hrtn_monky]

slow poke, great job.....:D

[JohnnyB]

Hey Slowpoke - very very nice!!!

[Slowpoke]

after 3½ hours working on the front badge I have to admit that I am less than satisfied. I gap between the coin and the badge it too wide. I did use black silicone to fill it, but the black 'ring' that now seperates the coin from the ring is too large and distracting. I will use primer, then black gloss paint to make the from badge all-black until such time someone creates new badges so I can swap them out.

At least the rear badge looks great!

slowpoke

[SergntMac]

I respect your frustration, remember that you're causing a lot of folks here take greater interest in personalizing their own MMs, and everyone seems to be having a lot of fun with your project. Indeed, both badges look great, you've done a wonderful job, thank you.

Maybe we could get a peek at the front badge, see how "wide" the ring is for ourselves?

[Slowpoke]

I've already primed it for the black paint. I wanted to give the primer a day to dry. sorry. It did not look good, trust me on that.

slowpoke

[studio460]

Well, TAF, I followed your badge removal directions faithfully but . . .

Front badge came off easily (will now sand and paint gloss black).

But the REAR badge . . . the darn thing just didn't want to come off! Solution: followed TAF's procedure above, then stuck wooden clothespin halfs between the body and the badge--wedging the gap open with a flathead screwdriver w/plastic card underneath, then sliding clothespin half in gap. I wedged eight clothespin halfs around the emblem and lightly tapped each with a hammer until the emblem raised off the body about one-quarter of an inch all the way around, then pulled off with fingers . . . and voila! (I think body shops use heat guns to soften up the adhesive first, but don't quote me on this.) This took a fair amount of effort, but I think it was definitely worth it.

Another tip: I applied white paper tape (or any other thin paper tape) all around the emblem before I started using the plastic card (plastic WILL scratch your finish). I only have a few small microscratches where I first used the card WITHOUT first applying the tape.

Now I'm quite happy with the badgeless rear--MUCH more stealthy!

Now the holes . . .

[TAF]

Hey shooter,

Yeah, the rear IS a little tricky compared with how easy the front is. Good job with the improvising and sounds like you used patience (which is also key).

After my post, someone (I think it was Slowpoke) came up with the idea and used a flexable, plastic "putty knife" which really became the recommended method.

She does look stealthy all "clean" back there...check photo gallery for pics from the Charlotte meet where we had a black and blue one who'd filled the holes and painted.

Here ya go...
http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/watermark.php?file=506/83DSC00410.JPG

[darebren]

can you post a link where to buy these badges??

[Slowpoke]

yes... plastic putty knife worked very well..

[studio460]

"Stealthy and clean . . ." Yes! Thanks for the tips, TAF. Do you have any idea how much was charged to fill and paint the holes (from the rear badge removal) in the pics you posted?

Here's my front badge, first sanded with 1000-grit, then spray painted with gloss black "Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy" from Home Depot. Directions on can advised: "do not use a primer with this product." I didn't. Finish came out fairly smooth--will hit it with some polish later.

http://newsfile.tv/nbc46-400.jpg
NBC's blacked-out front badge

Here's my now badgeless rear with two plastic plugs installed from Pep Boys' "Help" section (I'll re-edit this post and put the part number of the plugs later). I plan to buy another set of plugs, file/sand them down to closest fit, then paint gloss black.

http://newsfile.tv/nbc50-400.jpg
NBC's badgeless rear w/plugs

I'm really happy with the way my badging turned out . . . now on to the chin spoiler and factory spoiler installs . . .

[CRUZTAKER]

I feel you, "do what you gotta do"......

Rock on NBC :burnout:

[Canadasvt]

I can't wait for the thermometer to go above -23C so I can try to de-badge my Marauder. Just picked her up brand new on Monday, and it's been either snowing or freezing cold since. Well at least the weather co-operated for the drive home from the nice warm and dry dealership showroom.

Lot's of great info on this site!

Thanks :beer:

[MM03MOK]

I can't wait for the thermometer to go above -23C so I can try to de-badge my Marauder. Just picked her up brand new on Monday, and it's been either snowing or freezing cold since. Well at least the weather co-operated for the drive home from the nice warm and dry dealership showroom.

Lot's of great info on this site!

Thanks :beer::welcome: Get ready for a great ride!

[JeffGrice]

On cobras (shelby roadsters) where SHELBY badges had to be removed due to lawsuits, guys used monofilimnet fishhing line to "saw" through the silicone.

I talked to a couple of guys who did this with great results.

Jeff

[michburt]

it's sounds like the front will be easy.

but the back... has anyone actually pried it off? it would make more sense that there is a bolt or something holding it on. If there is no bolt, is the only way to get it back on to use silicone?

slowpoke
Mine pried off with the help of a hair drier. Double sided tape. to reinstall

Mike

[mmmmmmarauder]

went to Gator Customs...they are south of Chicago


they are vendors here I think...


They did the God's Head logo and
a stainless steel mesh grille


very happy



Peter
greekchicago@hotmail.com