Marauder causing more grey hair.

[Mr. Man]

Today I decided it was cool enough to look into a simple fix for the code 19 air bag light on Ms.D's SB. Looked at the wiring harness up by the fire wall and all seemed good. Checked under the seat to see if a wire came loose, that all seemed OK. So as long as I was in the neighborhood I thought I'd start it, and let it run awhile to keep it lubed It wouldn't start. The interior lights are on, and I can hear the fuel pump start, battery is new. I can also hear a faint quick click coming from under the hood that I assume might be a relay of some sort doing it's thing. I tried to jump start it, and got nowhere. The starter doesn't even do the clickity clickity thing. As you all know looking at the starter from above is difficult at best. I see two wires that look old, but do not appear to be broken. The car started 10 days or so ago lickity split, but today deadsville. Is there a fuse that spontaneously craps out, or any other part that just says '*****it today I'm going to die'? If it isn't an easy thing to look at (I'm to fat and crippled to crawl under the car, and have no safe place to jack it up) it's off to the stealership for repairs. I heard the clock spring could be a culprit in the airbag situation could that also render the car impotent? Appreciate any thoughts or suggestions. Just occurred to me to see if there is a code so I'll check that. Assuming there isn't I still have the same question.:)

Just put the code reader on it and got P1000 which seems to be some sort of OBD not ready code. Cleared it and it came right back.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Check the PATS fuse. I had that fail while the car was moving. Luckily was able to pull over safely.


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[Mr. Man]

Is it labeled in the owners manual? Or better yet where(under the hood or under the dash), and what # is it?

[justbob]

What’s the light on the dash doing? Did you try another key? One of my original keys left me stranded one night back in like ‘08, the other key fired it right up. Soon after I had that crap turned off in the tune…


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[Spectragod]

PATS will give you a crank no start, flashing light on top of dash. You most likely have a bad spot on the starter armature, as for the air bag, it’s a drivers side code, it could be anything from a belt pretensioner to a air bag and anything between them. Randomly changing parts will only get expensive and may not fix the issue.

The best bet is to either hook the car to an IDS or use ForScan and look at the PID’s for the airbag circuit, that way you can pinpoint the cause to a certain point of failure. And, fwiw, I have seen runs of wire fail where they shouldn’t have ever failed as it was taped in a harness with no apparent movement and no access for rub damage. And...... it was an airbag code as well. Old cars tend to have odd failures from time to time. My bet is your issue is related to a bit of oxidation on a connector, and you won’t be able to see it, but you will need a scan tool to check PID’s to isolate the area.


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[Spectragod]

What’s the light on the dash doing? Did you try another key? One of my original keys left me stranded one night back in like ‘08, the other key fired it right up. Soon after I had that crap turned off in the tune…


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Hi [emoji2321] Bob!!!!!


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[Comin' in Hot]

I would start with the most basic thing, you need to check to see if the starter is getting power when you turn the key. Two people makes it way easier, but someone has to get under the car to gain access to the starter with a test light.

[justbob]

Hi [emoji2321] Bob!!!!!


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Hi Darren!!!


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[Spectragod]

I would start with the most basic thing, you need to check to see if the starter is getting power when you turn the key. Two people makes it way easier, but someone has to get under the car to gain access to the starter with a test light.

Hi [emoji2321] Derek!


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[Mr. Man]

Good to talk to you Derrick. Hope to see you soon. Will put together a local meet soon.

Those are good ideas Darren. I don't have any of those tools, but I will suggest it to the mechanic at Ford. Hope it's as easy as a corroded terminal.

Going to try MsD's key later. Can't hurt. My guess is a bad wire in the starter that corroded and broke. Starter is original and the car has spent most of its life outside so wouldn't be surprised if it was a corroded wire or seized starter.

We will get to the bottom of it.

Paula is looking to hammer around this Summer so I need to get it in gear.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

It could also be the Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator Sensor. If not working properly, car won’t start.


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[Mr. Man]

Car won't even crank. I can hear the fuel pump doing it's magic.

[fastblackmerc]

Check the starter relay (#302 in the Power Distribution box under the hood). swap it with #303. Also check the 30A fuss, #101 (Ignition Switch).

Make sure all the battery connections are clean and tight.

[Joe Walsh]

Check the starter relay (#302 in the Power Distribution box under the hood). swap it with #303. Also check the 30A fuss, #101 (Ignition Switch).

Make sure all the battery connections are clean and tight.+1!

I was going to post about checking the battery terminals/clamps....I've had everything that pulled low amps work fine, but not have the starter crank.
Fooled me for about an hour, before I checked them.

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[Mr. Man]

When I had the tuner on looking at the DTC's I checked the gauges option and the battery was reading 11.74 w/ the car not running.

[fastblackmerc]

When I had the tuner on looking at the DTC's I checked the gauges option and the battery was reading 11.74 w/ the car not running.

And that is your problem.

Get the battery charged and get a maintainer for it.

[MyBlackBeasts]

When I had the tuner on looking at the DTC's I checked the gauges option and the battery was reading 11.74 w/ the car not running.

11.74 battery = all kinds of goofy problems and probable no cranky... Charge it up or new battery time.

[Mr. Man]

Braved the triple H's and played with Ms.D's hot rod. I swapped batteries with my car and still not a peep from the SB. Fuses made not difference either so it will be off to the stealership to sort it out. I'll have them track down the airbag issue as well.

Thanks for the ideas to try. :beer:

[mustangeddie]

Probably the wire coming out of the starter going to the solenoid rotted off. Something else to try push the shifter up hard into park or put it in neutral & give it a try. Could be the neutral safety switch out of adjustment or bad.

[Marauderjack]

Switch the relay like fastblack stated.......they go BAD and don't ask how I know!!:confused::mad2:

[BAD MERC]

ALL of my FoMoCo cars with PATS give a no-crank/rapid flashing theft light when attempted to start with a bad key. None of them crank.

[justbob]

There is two forms of PATS that I have read about. I can’t recall which disables what but I definitely had a no crank and I remember jumping my starter just to find out fuel or spark or both?? had also been disabled. This was way back in like ‘08ish. Car wasn’t even modded yet! [emoji43]


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[Mr. Man]

I tried both of the keys. Fuel pump is working. Switched the relays and the 30A #101 looks fine. Car started 2 weeks ago w/ no fuss other than the airbag dash light. Ford will figure it out.

[Mr. Man]

Getting ready to haul the SB to the dealer for analysis. Been reading a few other threads with cars not starting and some of the advice is to examine the crank position sensor. Would this part cause the car to not even click-click-click the starter if it was faulty? Where is this part located on the car? Is there a way to test it without fancy diagnostic equipment?

[boom boom]

I have a '03 CV that had the same issue. It turned out to be a chafed wire which runs from the ignition switch to the starter relay. You can confirm that's the issue by removing the starter relay and using a jumper wire from the battery to power the starter solenoid. If that gets the car started, then you will need to trace the harness along the firewall and look for the damaged wire. I don't have my electrical manual available to give you the wire colors and pin-outs.

[Mr. Man]

Forgot to update this. Turned out to be a bad starter. Put in a new one and car now starts fine. Turned out to be a corrosion issue.

Still trying to sort out the airbag issue. First code was a code 19(drivers side issue). Dealer said the RCM was bad, but seems fishy to me. Why would it suddenly go bad just sitting there? So I went to play with it yesterday and jiggled the wires under the seat as I read a TSB about the wires binding when the seat is moved. Now the airbag light blinks 12 which seems to be some sort of low power issue. Question for those of you Ford experts is will the airbag light blink for all codes or does it only blink for the lowest starting code? In other words if there are two code should it blink for both or will it only blink for the first one?