Wiring with relay kit for meziere pump

[purelux]

I am going to call and talk to dennis tomorrow and get the right belt and double check my wiring but I just wanted to ask some of the members here who have wired up their pumps. The wiring question was I didn't see a mention of the green wire. Though the blue comming from the pumps connector goes to a butt connector and connects to the one on the relay. So then the green should be the one going to the switched power source. Also the output connector on the alternator is the one on the top with the black rubber cap on it. The car is presently parked until I get the a belt that fits with the steeda underdrives. So I'm just trying to double check everything so I can get something accomplished. And correct me if I'm wrong but you won't get any power to the pump until the alternator is spinning correct?

The car is a 98 towncar

[Mongoose]

Purelux,
I'm confused too. Did you get ahold of Dennis?

My understanding for a MM is:
The pigtail for the water pump has a blue and a black lead.

The black is to be crimped together with the black lead from the relay switch and attached to an alternator mounting bolt for the ground (with WIK346???).

The blue is to be crimped together with the blue lead from the relay (87 on the relay) and "T" tapped to an ignition only source (or can be routed to the power distribution box just behind the battery?).

Am I then correct in assuming that the orange relay lead is the feed for the LED and the green is the ground or return back to relay from the LED? There's no mention of these leads in the instructions I received.

I would also like to have a manual on/off switch on the pump and fan. I'm trying to put together a t-stat housing with a bypass line around the t-stat with an in-line electric solenoid valve so that I can circulate and cool the coolant with the engine off.

Help anybody?

[purelux]

I did get ahold of him and he tried to do a 3 way call with meziere but the guy dennis knew was at lunch and the only tech on at the time. So i figured it out myself and checked that it was working by squeezing on the upper radiator hose to feel the water flowing. As the pump is too quiet to hear. The orange wire gets a ring terminal and then goes on the terminal on the alternator top, just take off the bolt and put it on and screw it down. The the grounds can go together and into a ring term and attach to any good ground location. I used the mounting bolt for the ground. The blue and blue connect with the butt connector. Then the green wire gets the male spade terminal at the end and goes into the t-tap. Which goes on the fuel pump relays wire. The instruction say its on the passenger firewall. I have a 98 towncar mine was on the drivers side and i used my manual found which fuse/relay it was traced the wire put the t-tap on it and plugged the green wire/male spade terminal into it. The main problem I ran into was finding the right length belt which was 3 inches shorter than my stock gatorback since i had steeda underdrive pulleys as well. I was worried about if it was running since i could tell for sure it was since its right under the alternator and it is very quiet. Finally I figured to check by holding the rad hose. the temp gauge moved up quicker than ebfore but it was nearly 90 and right now there is only about 1/2 gallon of anti-freeze in there plus a gallon of water. Which is all it took to fill after i drained it. I'm gonna check it tomorrow morn to see if it dropped at all and might need some more fluid. I also have watter wetter which causes it to absorb the heat quicker and is most effective with less anti-freeze/vs water. I've driven it around and it seems to be fine and the temp is just like before on the gauge. As far as driveability it seems a bit more responsive but it has also been more humid and hot than normal so i'll have to take a few days to give a good account.