Need Help, tips and tricks

[Dan]

I found a guy with a speed shop who is willing to do the install of the Kooks system for me. He has heard that the install should take 10 hours to complete. With his labor rate that would put me at over $800.00. At that point I am almost willing to do it myself.

Keeping in mind that I bought the full Kooks set up what I can use is your experiences with the install. How long did it take your mechanic? What little tips and tricks did you learn in the process? What have you read here that helped you with the install?

If you did the install yourself, please make sure to note that. Odds are, unless you are working in a shop-like set up your install time will be higher.

Now, I know that what the info that I am looking for could probably be found in this forum if I did a search for it and had the time to do that so, please, be helpful with me here. I will try to make the time to search in this way but in the meantime I thought that it would be good to shout out for help anyway. I would like to have as much info to give this install guy as a I can gather in as short a time as possible.

I really, really appreciate the feedback that I know you guys can provide me with. If things go right I might be able to have these things installed by the weekend.

Thanks,

Dan

[FiveO]

6 hours at most. Can be done in 4-5 with a good mechanic...and the right tips.

Go somewhere else if he's gonna charge you for 10.

Print out some of the instructions from other threads....or mine. I had a guy put mine in and he'd never done a set like this before.


There are 3 bolts that need to be shaved, you'll see which ones when you try and install them.

Take the starter out altogether.

Loosen the engine from the mounts and it CAN be easier...can be done without it though.

Take out the airbox, again, just more room.

Be ready to take off both wheels...not necessary...but CAN make things easier.

I'd REUSE the stock gasket.

After the headers, its all bolt on...with welding right at the end, just behind the new mufflers.

The stock pipes and tips are reused from at the back of the OEM mufflers back. Everything from that point forward is gone with the full Kooks system.

Good luck!

[Dan]

The guy is open to basing his install charge on the research that I do for him here. He was going on what he had heard and not on what he actually thought the install time was.

Does that make sense?

Best,

Dan

[jspradii]

The guy is open to basing his install charge on the research that I do for him here. He was going on what he had heard and not on what he actually thought the install time was.

Does that make sense?

Best,

Dan
My MIDAS brake and muffler guy did it in a little over four hours, and I've never had as much as a leakage issue. Anyone who would charge for ten hours time is just trying to screw you. Like it was mentioned above, go somewhere else.:party:

[Joe Walsh]

Like FiveO said...I did my own install and I reused the OEM gaskets..they are nice steel 'sandwich' type gaskets. You will need to loosen both motor mount bolts in order to jack up the engine to install the passenger's side header. The upper bolts on #4 and #7 need to be cut off shorter. I just cut off the smooth (unthreaded) portion of the bolts in order for them to clear adjacent header pipes that are close. I did not remove the starter, But I did wrap the starter with a 'DEI' heat blanket/sheild* because all the passenger's side header pipes pass around the starter. It helps to remove both front tires and use extention/universal joints on your ratchet to get to some of the bolts. Pay close attention to the routing of the oil dipstick in relation to the OEM manifold...I did not, And had a HE_L of a time getting the dipstick back in with the new header. I can't give you a real accurate time because I did mine in several sessions over a weekend...but I think that @6 hours is fair for a good mechanic. Good Luck and Enjoy the newfound HP plus the intoxicating HOWL of a Kook's equipped DOHC at 6200 rpm!!!
*Summit Racing has the DEI product line.

[cyclone03]

For the dip stick,I don't understand why everybody wants to fight it,just cut a 1/2" section out of the left header flange to pass the header over/past the tube then slightly bend the tube and add a spacer under the little bracket on the dip stick tube.

It took me all day to do my install,on my back in the garage about 10-12 hours.But I was in no hurry at all.

Zack is the man,I think he does it in 4-5 hours while rebuilding his transmission at the same time. :rasta:

After looking at 3 sets of Kooks at Indy,I can tell you that every clearence issue discussed below (in this forum) is true.

Read all install post in this forum.
Print them if you like,without a dought this will be the BEST header install instruction you will EVER find!

If you know which end of a wrench to hold save the $$ and do it yourself.

[2003 MIB]

Terry Cole in Duncanville, TX can do it in 4.5 hours but mine was the second set he'd installed (Logan was the first). I don't know what his "tricks" are but the guy is a class "A" wrench.

[cyclone03]

Terry Cole in Duncanville, TX can do it in 4.5 hours but mine was the second set he'd installed (Logan was the first). I don't know what his "tricks" are but the guy is a class "A" wrench.


My guess on any PRO wrenchs tricks are AIR TOOLS and EXPERIENCE!

[2003 MIB]

My guess on any PRO wrenchs tricks are AIR TOOLS and EXPERIENCE!
I would concur...but I like the idea of them gaining their experience on someone else's car.

[Dan]

For the dip stick,I don't understand why everybody wants to fight it,just cut a 1/2" section out of the left header tube to pass the header over/past the tube then slightly bend the tube and add a spacer under the little bracket on the dip stick tube.

I don't understand what you mean by "cut a 1/2" section out of the left header tube". Are you suggesting that the header be cut? Please clarify a bit. Thanks.

Best,

Dan

[cyclone03]

I don't understand what you mean by "cut a 1/2" section out of the left header tube". Are you suggesting that the header be cut? Please clarify a bit. Thanks.

Best,

Dan

Cut a section from the header flange,to allow the flange to clear the dip stick without removing it.Between the tubes for #6 and #7 the middle two on the left side of the engine.


I edited my above post too.

[Dan]

Thanks for the compilation of tips and tricks, everyone. It made it easier for the installer to quote a lot lower.

It all starts tomorrow. Tomorrow evening we do 3 dyno pulls, then, on Friday, the Kooks go in, I get the chip reflashed and we go for 3 more.

I am truly looking forward to my drive home. :D

Dan

[FiveO]

If your headers are coated....I wouldn't be cutting anything out of the flange area.

Just my opinion.


The dipstick tube will fit...just takes some light bending.

Good luck Dan!

[Dan]

Just got back from the install. I learned a few things. If I am copying anything that has already been stated I am sorry.

1. Cutting the bottom 3/4-1" of the dipstick allows it to go in immediately.
2. The shift linkage will contact at least 1 if not 2 of the header tubes. It needs to be disconnected from the bracket and zip tied to the fram.

There is another couple of nice tricks that my truck mechanic and I figured out but I am going to leave those for an install document that I am going to prepare.

Best,

Dan

[FiveO]

He posts about the install....and doesn't even mention the performance or sound!!!

Dan....come on!!! :D

[Dan]

LOL.

Sorry 'bout that.

The sound... It is between a growl and a howl, sometimes it is both at once. I don't know how else to descrive it.

Performance? I'll need a few more miles with it. Keep in mind that it is just over a 10% HP increase.

Stay tuned.

Best,

Dan