Jacking Suggestions?

[PJR]

It's starting to cool outside, enough that I'm going to tackle the G2 Caliper project soon. I've solicited responses that say the result looks good. I really hate to put all four corners up on jack stands. (at the jacking points?) I wish I had a lift, but the stands are going to have to work. Does anybody have any suggestions for putting it in the air? Thanks in advance.

[jgc61sr2002]

I would jack it on the frame and position jack stands also on the frame. Don't forget to turn of the air suspension switch (in the trunk) before jacking.

[CRUZTAKER]

To effectively apply the Eastwood caliper paint, the car really needs to be completely off the ground. Most of us do not have a lift to use, let alone for 2 days worth of prepping, cleaning, painting, and drying.

Jack stands work fine, here is how I did it.

http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/data/500/627Jack_rear.jpg

http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/data/500/627Jack_front.jpg

BTW: I have two floor jacks, and that makes it easier to get one end of the car entirely at once. Pump each jack a little at a time, or have a helper lift with you.

[Paul T. Casey]

I've had mine up on jacks several times with no problems. I support the front on the frame rails, and the rear on the axle. I do like Barry's method, both the double jack, and the use of the wooden blocks. Makes a lot of sense to me anyway. In the front, I use the crossmember to jack, where the engine is, in the rear, despite what worries many, I still use the differential for the jacking point. Careful alignment, and make sure the wheels on the jack will roll should make for successful results. I've been lifting cars this way for (ohmygoshimold) nearly 30 years. I repeat, make sure the jack wheels can roll. I had a buddy put a jack through an oil pan because his jack wheels wouldn't roll. Last motion on the jack should be a push toward the center of the car to align the wheels.

[FordNut]

I've had mine up on jacks several times with no problems. I support the front on the frame rails, and the rear on the axle. I do like Barry's method, both the double jack, and the use of the wooden blocks. Makes a lot of sense to me anyway. In the front, I use the crossmember to jack, where the engine is, in the rear, despite what worries many, I still use the differential for the jacking point. Careful alignment, and make sure the wheels on the jack will roll should make for successful results. I've been lifting cars this way for (ohmygoshimold) nearly 30 years. I repeat, make sure the jack wheels can roll. I had a buddy put a jack through an oil pan because his jack wheels wouldn't roll. Last motion on the jack should be a push toward the center of the car to align the wheels.
Get ready to be flamed for improper jacking technique! That's the way I do it too. Been doing it that way forever. Front crossmember, with a thin block of wood to prevent scratches and gouges from the jack. Rear differential, being careful not to damage the diff cover with the jack. Jackstands on the frame just in front of back wheels and just behind front wheels.

[CRUZTAKER]

I forgot to add....blocks of wood wherever possible.

I used to jack from the diff on some of my prior cars, but haven't tried it on the MM yet. I tend to rough it, and take it slow on the corners. No flames from me though.

[Petrograde]

I only have 2 jackstands, so I did 2 wheels at a time. I didn't think about using wood blocks,... good idea..