long-term storage

[Geo]

Although I don't have a Marauder (yet) my 94 Impala SS is similar in frame design and driveline so I thought we would all still benefit from this thread as it would apply to both cars.

I have various literature on what to do if you want to put a car in long-term storage. Alot of them say to go as far as to drain ALL the fluids and have the car sit on 4 jack-stands and to put some oil down the spark plug holes upon removing the plugs.

I can see going that far if the car is to sit for 20 years but I have had cars in storage before and I believe an easy route (to prevent front and rear main seal leaks and other problems with seals being pressured from fluids) is to park the car and have the battery dis-connected. At that point if one was to re-connect the battery every 4 months and start the car and move the car (around the block or at least just a couple meters back and forth (hitting the brakes hard) to circulate the fluids and to make sure the brakes don't sieze up); this should prevent any damage from the car sitting too long.

However, what could be reccomended if I want the car to sit longer than 4 months at a time but to not have to go to the trouble of draining all the fluids.

Should I at least raise the car off the ground JUST ENOUGH where the car's weight doesn't sacrifice the tires but not TOO MUCH where the wheels start dragging on the suspension? If so, what procedure is recommended for jacking the car up (what does one use) and what type of jack stand(s) does one use? I imagine I would jack the car up one spot at a time (like changing a tire) on the respective points on the frame and then stick a jack stand under there and then lower it. If so then should this be done individially or one side at a time at the same time (i.e. 2 jacks to jack up one side (eg Pass side) and then throw jacks underneath (how does one take out the jack and put a stand underneath while the car is up) OR jack up the LR and the RF first {in order for it to be balanced} and then the alternate after)?

I have 2 "TuvGS" (red and yellow) Hydraulic Trolley Jacks. They have 4 wheels on them each. They are rated at a Maximum capacity of 2 tons with a min Height of 135mm and a max height of 345m and measure about a foot and a half in length. Are these useful in raising the car up and throwing jacks-stands underneath?

Any sugg'?

[Leadfoot]

I don't think it is necessary to raise the car on jackstands. I never put any of my cars on jackstands before. The only problem is that the tires will temporarily flat spot. After driving on them for a few miles, they return to normal. Bias ply tires would permanently flat spot I believe. Radials will not. I increased the tire pressure this year to see if the temporary flat spotting will decrease. I just went to the max pressure on the sidewall.

As for everything else, I just top off the fluids and disconnect the battery. I store it up to 6 months and I try to start it once or twice. No problems so far.

The 2 ton jacks will be plenty for you if they are tall enough.

[Geo]

so, LeadFoot, you reccomend just to keep the fluids where they should be. Including the feul tank? I hear that the tank should be full to prevent air from getting into the fuel system.

Wouldn't the suspension be harmed if it sat too long on the wheels ( I was just thinking to lift some weight off by lifting the car slightly but not to the point where they are hanging and hurting the suspension again. But ofcourse, the car should be mobile I suppose so the fluids can circulate so the seals don't get harmed.

[LincMercLover]

Well, with the same token, do you think the suspension would be harmed by staying extended for long periods of time? Remember, air springs. Just go out to the car and turn the key on for 5 seconds to let them pump up after about a week or so.

[Leadfoot]

Originally posted by Leadfoot
... I just top off the fluids and disconnect the battery...

I was just lazy and didn't type the whole story. I top off all the fluids and put in a full tank of gas. I put in Stabil in the tank and run it long enough for the Stabil to reach the injectors. I change the oil too. The car is designed to sit on the suspension. So, taking the weight off of it is unnecessary. Just start it occassionally and move it around a bit (if you can) just to move the fuids and prevent anything from rusting or siezing (sp? - I suck at spelling).

[Colin]

Impala's don't have air suspension LincMercLover.

Geo, while it is not necessary to jack the car off the ground it is a good idea. One thing you have to make sure of is that the suspension is still loaded instead of hanging. Leaving it hanging will destroy the bushings and mess with balljoints. If you take the car off the ground put the rear jack stands under the axle and put the front stands under the lower control arms.
You want the gas tank full, with some Stabil added in.
Put bags or stuff rags over/in the exhaust pipes and do something to block the air intake. Put in fresh engine oil. Clean and condition the leather. Protect the interior plastic with a good protectant along with the rubber door and trunk seals. Put some dessicants in the interior. Pull out the battery. Shut the doors to the first stop only. Same with the hood. Make sure the exterior is clean and preferably waxed. Put a cover on it. A sheet will suffice if in a dark garage. You can have all this done in less than two hours.
I've always wanted a BBB '96 SS. I want that floor shift and analog dash. One of these days... Thanks for taking care of it and not letting it rot!

Colin

[LincMercLover]

Damn, didn't read his post right. I was talking in regardes to a MM... Sorry...

[Geo]

Colin: Although you say it is not necessary to jack the car up (sounds like I would expect no damage if I didn't jack it up), if I do, thanks for the jack stand locations ( I imagine I do this one end at a time).

What do you mean by the suspension being "loaded"? Do you mean with the wheels/tires on with something underneath?

Will running the age-old gas hurt the car years later (even with STABIL in there)? I heard that if there is a problem (or even if there is not) to run some Octane Boost, add Fuel Injector Cleaner and change the fuel filter after a while upon operation.

I know a good detail shop that might know how to protect the plastic in the interior and the rubber door and trunk seals.

Would shutting the doors with the first stop promote mice from climbing in? Also, I might be paranoid to leave doors and hood open like that for security reasons (depending where I ultimately park the car as I was hoping for leaving it in a family garage where it is now but this might change). Doesn't enough air come through the grille and the underbody for there to be adequate airflow for the engine bay (RE: leaving the hood closed only to the first stop. And what about the trunk then, only one stop there, should dessicant be used there too?).

I was never sure how to use that dessicant. I wasn't sure if the windows whould be down a little or fully closed (I had never thought of the doors being closed to the first stop mind you). I thought it would be good if the interior was completely sealed for the dessicant to work. ???

I heard that the dessicant should be changed every 4-6 months?

Thanks

GEO

[LincMercLover]

In regaurds to mice, put poisen packs in the garage (that is if you don't have any domestic animals in there) and get one of those rodent sound thingies to put under the car.

[Colin]

Originally posted by Geo
What do you mean by the suspension being "loaded"? Do you mean with the wheels/tires on with something underneath?
Loaded means having the vehicle weight on the suspension. Unloaded would be with the wheels/tires hanging.


Will running the age-old gas hurt the car years later (even with STABIL in there)? I heard that if there is a problem (or even if there is not) to run some Octane Boost, add Fuel Injector Cleaner and change the fuel filter after a while upon operation.
Running the old gas won't hurt anything, but the car won't run at full power. Changing your fuel filter after storage is a good idea.

Would shutting the doors with the first stop promote mice from climbing in?
No. I close the hood to the first stop just in case something siezes in the hood release assebly. I want to be able to open the hood after storage with no problems.

I was never sure how to use that dessicant. I wasn't sure if the windows whould be down a little or fully closed (I had never thought of the doors being closed to the first stop mind you). I thought it would be good if the interior was completely sealed for the dessicant to work. ???
You want the windows cracked for airflow. You need airflow. It also keeps the seals from becoming glued to the top of the glass. You want the doors cracked to keep them from glueing to the seals. You don't want the doors all the way open as it will destroy the bushings in the door hinges.

I heard that the dessicant should be changed every 4-6 months?
Depends on the brand and amount you use but the more you change it, the better.

Colin

[Geo]

thanks everyone for the excellent info. One more thing, I read somewhere on the forum that laying a tarp under the car is good (the whole length of the car); why? I also hear about putting the battery on a piece of plywood (I always knew this was good as opposed to the bare floor) but is the plywood just as good as it being in the car dis-connected? I always dis-connect the +ve and the -ve terminals anyway.

GEO

[yamahaSHO]

When I stored my Camry, I took some of the weight off of the front tires. I let the tires still support some of the weight. If you have a flat spot because it sat too long, they may work them selves out. I have seen instances where the flat spot made the belts slip and cause a big knot in the tire. Don't forget to use some gas stabilizer. You may want to put a sheet or plastic dust cover on the car as well.

[WolfeBros]

You do not want to put a cover over your car unless it is a breatheable type fabric of some sort. Anything else will trap moisture under the cover and around your cars finish, ect...

[yamahaSHO]

Most sheet are breathable and as long as the plastic is just resting(not tied down) you will be fine. I stored mine for 8 months with plastic resting on it and all was fine even thought there is not much moisture in Phoenix, AZ.

[Colin]

DON'T put plastic directly on the paint. All it takes is a little bit of movement and eventually it will wear through your paint. The breeze from opening a door to the garage is enough over time. Soft cloth only.

Colin

[yamahaSHO]

Colin,
Where in PHX are you located?? I am in Litchfield Park.

[Geo]

I have a breathable cover on my Impala when in the garage for long periods of time (applied only after a fresh wash).

I have 2 other old Dodges outside. As I have no choice but to park those outside, I cover them with 2 covers each. The first cover is a breathable cover (just like the one on the Impala inside) and the other cover over top is a non-breathable tarp. The idea is that when the elements hit it, the brathable cover underneath will breathe through underneath as air should be able to get in from underneath but the tarp on top would not allow any water to penetrate the breathable cover underneath. However, I'm not sure about any condensation that may transfer through the wet tarp and eventually penetrate the brathable cover underneath. Any thoughts? I find my procedure is better than just having a breathable cover which would let the elements transfer through or having nothing at all on the cars.

[LincMercLover]

You could just pop $100 for one of those car canopy things...

Then there's the car in a bubble...

[Colin]

Originally posted by yamahaSHO
Colin,
Where in PHX are you located?? I am in Litchfield Park.

31st Ave&Peoria.

Where's Lichfield Park?

Colin

[yamahaSHO]

I am located at the crossroads of Camelback and 128th ave, other side of town. It is by Luke AFB, Avondale, Glendale. I am in New York until June.

[Leadfoot]

Originally posted by Geo
thanks everyone for the excellent info. One more thing, I read somewhere on the forum that laying a tarp under the car is good (the whole length of the car); why?

The tarp under the car reduces moisture from the ground from rising up into the underside of the vehicle. You should put it there even on concrete because concrete is pourous enough to allow moisture to pass through it.


I also hear about putting the battery on a piece of plywood (I always knew this was good as opposed to the bare floor) but is the plywood just as good as it being in the car dis-connected? I always dis-connect the +ve and the -ve terminals anyway.

Leaving it in the car is fine as long as the temperatures are not too cold. I always pull mine out more for security reasons. Its hard to drive off without a battery. Leaving the battery on concrete will drain the charge. I don't know why exactly. Plywood acts as a barrier.

[merc406]

Best way to store a car is the car bag.