Floor board

[blackonblack]

Sorry if this is redundant but I have checked all posts regarding vibration but here’s my question. I have 4 new BF/g tires all road force balanced new front brakes and alignment but before and after all of this I get a vibration knocking feel in the floor board by the pedals and through the pedal at highway speeds 60mph – 80mph. I don’t feel any vibration in the steering wheel only in the floor board. Thank you in advance

[EbonyMarauder03]

Have your dealership check the torque of your body mounts. You can also have them check for an "extra" body mount. I had a vibration right under my foot. They were all set to replace the body bushing when the tech saw the extra bushing between the body and frame. If they have any questions have them call me at Magarity Ford, 215-242-3309, ask for Bob. I hope this helps.

[Bradley G]

Hey blackonblack,

I have this symptom too starts at a slightly lower speed 40 ish.A lot of discussion about our drive shaft being suspect,mostly at the high end you mentioned and faster.
Bradley G

[LCpl Retired]

also check that rubber air dam thing up front..sometimes it can flap and cause this..have someone drive next to you at speed

[Dan19063]

Sorry if this is redundant but I have checked all posts regarding vibration but here’s my question. I have 4 new BF/g tires all road force balanced new front brakes and alignment but before and after all of this I get a vibration knocking feel in the floor board by the pedals and through the pedal at highway speeds 60mph – 80mph. I don’t feel any vibration in the steering wheel only in the floor board. Thank you in advance
I have the same problem vibration at floorboard around 80mph. Have had nothing done yet because there are several different ideas people seem to have about this. Still waiting until someone comes up with the right fix. Any one have any other ideas? And do these body mounts really have anything to do with the vibration

[Glenn]

Balance your driveshaft before you do anything. It is very inexpensive and will probably solve the vibration.

Glenn

[04MEMA]

Balance your driveshaft before you do anything. It is very inexpensive and will probably solve the vibration.

Glenn


I'm with Glenn, I need to do this also. I have the same vibration. And the car really gets "booming" (audible, low frequency) around 90+ (closed course, professional driver).

Jeff

[Dan19063]

Balance your driveshaft before you do anything. It is very inexpensive and will probably solve the vibration.

GlennWhere can this be done what kind of shop. I dont know if I trust the dealership to do the work. If I cant get them to check the tires when it is in for an oil change I cant trust that they will do the fix or just say that they did. I mean they marked on the sheet that they checked the tire pressure but when I got home I checked it and all were at 25psi (Got to love the dealership)

[SMOKE]

Found this post regarding floorboard vibration. I'll call it tapping.

Not really in the same boat with the higher speeds mentioned towards the end of this old thread (no booming or new tires to add either).

I've got a tap-tap-tap under my toes between 40-50 MPH. I was thinking inner fender...mostly because when I installed my FIPK I wanted to check the rear bag compressor....had WAY too much noise coming from it during the "rise and awake" cycle....found nuts missing which bolts come through driver's inner fender...now all is quiet in compressor-land....and I thought I'd chased the tap-tap demon down since now the driver's fender liner should be fully attached to the car....no improvement.

Should I go the "chase car" route and see if someone else can see any flapping...or has anyone else (with waning factory warranty) wasted their time at the dealer in the past with this intermittant problem (I've got warranty left...dropped the money on Ford ESP when I picked up my car a month ago...I'm good until almost 70K or 2010).

Thanks...

[MM2004]

I'm with Glenn, I need to do this also. I have the same vibration. And the car really gets "booming" (audible, low frequency) around 90+ (closed course, professional driver).

Jeff

Jeff,

The "boom" you are referring to is a classic sign of NVH in a vehicle. (not always driveshaft, but first and least expensive step)

Dynotech in Troy, Michigan would be my first choice as I have worked with them before and are familier with their balancers..
(Balance Engineering CBI-55)

http://www.dynotechengineering.com/

Prior to removing the driveshaft, make sure you mark the pinion flange with a paint dot parallel to the paint dot on the driveshaft.

Take the shaft to them and ask what rpm and setup specs. they will use. Personally, I would not accept less than 3,500 rpm's @ .25 oz/in.
(slip 'em a $10.00 or something if they resist as this will be well worth it).

You may also ask them to check the TIR near both circle welds and linear center of the tube prior to balancing.

Make sure they mark "light side imbalance" on the tube prior to removing from the machine.

If they have to add weight to the driveshaft, see if they will perform a verification after cooldown before sending you on your way.

If I missed anything, send me a PM and we'll discuss.

Mike.