New Speakers

[gja]

OK,
I have completed the four corner install and here are the facts:
Rears and fronts are 6x8 size, there is NO other size unless something is very wrong with your car.

I chose to use Pioneer TS-A6870R at all 4 positions. They are 3 way poly-cone speakers. The bass is tighter and the high end response is far beyond the stockers.

Best part?.....they are exact size replacements so NO CUTTING!!!

The rears are easy to do, just pry the grill up carefully starting from the short side that is towards the opposing speaker and slowly pull it out and up. 4 Philips-heads hold it in.

I ALWAYS leave the original connector in place and solder the new lead inline so if I sell the car I can put the old speakers back w/o a hassle. Polarity MUST be observed if you want it to sound good. On the stock speakers the right-hand side terminal is marked with a black or blue dot, this is the negative side. You should splice and solder the connector for the new speakers with the black-striped lead on that. USE GOOD quality electrical tape, don't be lazy or sloppy, you will regret shortcuts down the road.....believe me you will.

The fronts are more work as it involves removal of the door panels. If you have never done this before DON'T DO THIS. It takes some understanding of how the door panels go on to remove them w/o hurting anything (or yourself, there are lots of sharp edges that are happy to slice you up). If you do the fronts you will need to cut the mini lag-screws they use to about 1/2 length or you will deform the plastic mounting ring that forms the bezel for the speaker. It is a 3/16" hex-head. I used the original hardware on all 4 and got a solid, clean install.

The end effect is VERY significant. The stock units are typical paper cone with a 'wizzer' cone in the center which helps to bring more high frequency response, but these units PALE in comparison to good aftermarket units.
I needed to turn the volume up less and had to adjust the bass and treble down from where I had them.

[RF Overlord]

gja, thanks for the detailed report...have a banana: :banana: I probably would have tried to do the fronts myself and bunged it all up...I'll take it to a local place that has experience with dismantling new car interiors...but the rears are outta here as soon as I buy the replacements!

[MassMarauder]

If anyone else has this mod on their agenda please take pictures of the front door panel disassembly. I may attempt this in the spring.

[joflewbyu2]

FACT: factory sub is 6.75" round. rear speakers are 6x8 and fronts are 6x8. i changed mine today. got kenwood kfc 6808c 3 way 6x8s for both the front and rear. rear grills pop off and 4 screws hold each speaker to the metal shelf. INTERESTING NOTE: YOU CAN SLIDE YOUR FINGERS UNDER THE CARPETED SHELF FROM THE DRIVER'S SIDE OPENING AFTER YOU REMOVE THE GRILL AND CHECK TO SEE IF YOUR FOAM WAS LEFT IN ABOVE THE 6.75" SUB SPEAKER. yes mine was there. i was able to ease my long fingers in and grab it out. it was 1" thick and about 6" x 6". made a huge difference in bass output. let me say it again, made a huge difference in bass output. the kenwoods are crystal clear (separate woofer, midrange and tweeter). the door have 2 visible screws on bottom, 1 visible screw on outside edge, 1 hidden torx behind the cover where the door handle opener is, 1 hidden screw inside - below the window covers, pull the side mirror triangle piece out (held on with clip), pull door cover UP, not out, until it is free. when replacing front speaker and reusing the oem socket screws, cut the screws down half way (via dremmel) or use a spacer as the oem have the grills glue on them and screws are to long and bottom out before the new speaker is secured. GOOD LUCK!! a world of difference. never knew it would sound this GOOD!

[joflewbyu2]

gja, good choice on the pioneer 3 way ts-a6870 versus the ts-a6880 4 way. if you shine a flashlight into the front grille with the door closed - you will notice that the outer corners of the dash covers the most foward part of the speaker. those getting 3 ways, be sure to place the speaker as to have the midrange centered and the tweeter part toward the rear of the car - otherwise the dash will block the highs from the tweeter. try to stick with a poly speaker cause of the door environment of moisture and wetness. paper or fiber reinfoced will deteriate over time. i prefer the older pioneer ts-a1657 2 way, pioneer ts-a1667 3 way or the kenwood kfc-6808c 3 ways.

[gja]

Joe,
Never liked 4 ways in such a small speaker, too much compromise for a decent dynamic range to be achieved in such a small assembly. I will echo your warning to face the offset to the rear for clearance on the tweeter. I would choose NOT to use a dremel to cut the bolts, however as if you don't have a good touch you can mess the screw up badly. That is why I tell people to use a small bolt cutter or a set of strong clippers (electricians pliers typically do well).

Made some heck of a difference, didn't it? The stock head is surprisingly good when the speakers are up to par. I don't understand how they still use paper coned speakers in ANY car, it's just the wrong thing to do considering the environment it is being installed in. They KNOW it is going to see high heat/cold/humidity at some point. I mean, really, could they spare $100. on a car that runs $30K?

[TAF]

I think this is a needed, next improvement. And I agree about the head-unit. I first thought about going in that direction, but every one of them that I looked at I didn't like. So switching out speakers is a good move in my opinion.

One question for both of you, did you replace the subwoofer as well? And if not, any recommendations for that since I'm sure it's a paper-cone unit as well?

Thanks again guys,

[Slowpoke]

Kenwood kfc6808C ?? I found a Kenwood 688C at Crutchfield for $149 per pair. Is this the correct model number? Also, where is the best deal on these puppies since this is something that I too ned to do.

[FordNut]

Dol a search on speakers on the forums. Somebody mentioned that they found some adapter pigtails so you won't have to splice wires.

[gonzo50]

I like the Kenwood eXcelon KFC-X688C, 6"x 8" 2-way speakers, they're good weather resistance and durable.

Yes, thats the correct number for the Kenwood's, go to web site: www.crutchfieldcatalog.com and enter the required info with the code "PL" and than the make & model of car in the speaker section.

Free Catalog.

[joflewbyu2]

gja, i used the dremmel to cut/sand while holding the bolt in a bolt cutter. otherwise, as you said, the bolt gets hot and is difficult to hold and cut by hand. by any chance, does it tell the magnet weight anywhere on those pioneer? i got the kenwoods cause they had 2 pairs available and only 1 pair of the pioneers. i listened to both and could not hear a difference. either speakers will make a huge difference; stronger bass, detailed vocals and crisp highs. removing the foam pad ( the scotch brite one ) made a big improvement in the bass department by itself. ford doesn't make the OEM speakers, they use the cheapest supplier - the one that bids lowest to fords specs (last 3 years to cover Ford's warranty). paper, whizzer cones and foam surrounds. these speakers typically cost $2 to $3 each.

[FordNut]

It's a shame Ford has gone to the generic low-bid speakers. My Mark VII(s) came with factory installed JBL speakers and they still sound great after 15 yrs.

[LincMercLover]

I'm suprised the MM didn't get the Mach stereo that the Mustangs get...

[martyo]

gja and jo: what tool(s) are necessary to take the clip off near the mirror triangle piece?

gja: others around hear have said that the "Scotch-brite" material above the sub was there to protect the sub? any concerns with removing it?

I am replacing my speakers next week.

[joflewbyu2]

stanleyk, no tools needed. just pull the triangle out from the top and lift out. the scotch-brite is only there to keep objects from damaging the speaker during shipping from the supplier and should have been removed when installed in the car by FMC. you will still have the carpeted shelf above to protect the sub. made a world of diffence. heard my sub before removal and just thought it stunk! pulled the scotch brite pad out and now have NO DESIRE TO REPLACE THE SUB.

[martyo]

Jo:

Thanks a bunch. I have printed your posts, read them 4X and plan on doing the swap at night during the week. Unfortunately, I have a heavy workload, so I expect that the project will span a few nights. I will let you know the outcome.

Help like this is what makes this site what it is. :bows:

By the way, could you send us some of that warm Florida weather?

[martyo]

Ok, so I got antsy and started to take the door skins off tonight to prepare for the new speaker install (Mr. UPS guy where are you?????).

Jo's directions are great. One note i would add is that one of the "hidden" screws is underneath (inside) of the arm rest where the window/door locks switches are. Simply pull up on the arm rest until it snaps out and look inside and you will see the hidden screw.

Work slowly, I found it takes some finesse to work the door skins off.

By the way, if Ford spent $2-$3 for those factory speakers, they over paid!! Can't wait to finish this project and reap the benefits.

[martyo]

By the way guys any tips on reassembly that I need to know about?

[WolfeBros]

Damn it you guys !! Now I have to go and do this to mine too.
Oh well.......at least I can tell the wife that everyone else is doing it.
:up:

[martyo]

Wolfe that's how I got the car in the first plave (luckily she didn't know about the poor sales!!).

I'll let you know how it turns out; I am about a third of the way done.

[martyo]

Guys:

I have one thing to say: "Do the speakers!"

I finished mine last night. It took me three nights because I have been working (way) too much and I only put in a little time each night, plus as I was working, I was getting to know the car (I like to know where wires run, etc.).

Anyway, I bought my speakers at Crutchfield (www.crutchfield.com). They may might have the absolute best prices but the service and "extras" are well worth it. The speakers come with detailed instructions (even showed how to take the sub down) and "patch cords" that required no cutting or splicing, so the factory connections stayed "factory".

If you have worked on pulling the door skins off previously, this job can be done in less than 2 hours, including rounding up the tools and parts from your shop.

I am so happy with the sound that tomorrow I am taking a "work related" road trip (2 hours out and 2 hours back). I am looking forward to the trip with the new sound.

If anyone has any ???? or if I can be of any help, just let me know or stop by my garage and I'll do the speakers for you.

[WolfeBros]

StanleyK.....
I replaced the rear speakers tonight with the Pioneer 6870's. Unfortunately Best Buy only had the one pair in stock so I will have to wait to do the doors. It does make a difference in sound !

[martyo]

If you need or want to see the Crutchfield instructions for doing the door speakers, let me know (drop me an e-mail, not a PM. They were pretty helpful (of course I started without them and wish I hadn't!).

Did you pull ALL of the foam from the sub (including the scotch brite stuff? Makes the bass a lot punchier and you can always put it back if you don't like it.

Big difference in the sound eh?? Even my GF admitted the sound was better!!

[WolfeBros]

While I was in there I went ahead and pulled the scotchbrite pad out. It does seem to give the bass more punch. Figured I could always put it back in if I had to. I am not clear if the pad is there for protection of the driver or if it was for baffling purposes or what. Are the Crutchfield instructions specific to the Marauder? If so I would like to see them. Thanks.

[martyo]

Wolfe: Yes, they are specific to the MM. Good photos too. Click on my profile and send me an e-mail (not a PM). I will be in my office all day, so just let me know.....

[CRUZTAKER]

Originally posted by WolfeBros
I replaced the rear speakers tonight with the Pioneer 6870's........

Now we are talking. I watched this thread for awhile and was waiting for someone to discover the Pioneers. I utilized the same setup in my Marguis (diff. head tho) and they by far had the best sound unless you can dig deep for Cerwin Vegas or Fosgates.

The 6x9 will work in the rear, I know this. I havn't tried it in the MM yet, but when I do, if there is issue, I will adapter-ize them and shove them in from the back. I am in no hurry for tunes yet....I need speed.

I worked in a Perf. sound shop out of high school before my military training and learned to do custom installs with carpet, leather, plastic and wood. We put any speaker anywhere, and plenty of amps. At one point I had 1/0 POWER and 250 GRD. drawing nearly 300 amps and over 3000 watts. That car never did catch on fire, but I carried a fire extinguisher next to seat. What?? you say somethin'.....

I am no longer a sound head, have no desire, it's just an invitation to thieves. Speakers I'll do tho, gotta wait until I can still feel my fingers after being outside for more than 10 minutes. :rasta:

[martyo]

Sound systems, a ripe field for flame wars.

I went with the Kenwood Excelon's (688c) at all four corners. I felt that they are a good compromise between sound, price, durability (they have a 2 year warranty versus many other speakers that come with a 1 year warranty) and my overall prior experiences with Kenwood products in harsh environments (boats on salt water).

One thing everyone who does a speaker swap must agree with is that the stock speakers are POSs and there is plenty of room for improvement.

What fun is driving fast if you aren't listening to good tunes, eh?

[joflewbyu2]

one of the easiest and best upgrades you could make. glad to share the knowledge and info. wish everything fit and worked correctly like this.

[martyo]

Jo: Your help was great. I was close to taking it to a pro shop for the speakers, but you talked me out of it. I am glad and it saved me $$$$. Always a good thing!

Thanks again. Can I offer you some snow in repayment????!!!!

[mensrea]

OK I am lost here.... did someone replace the sub speaker as well? What size type of sub was used... I have four speakers replaced and XM, but no sub yet... Mmmmm pay mortgage, new stereo.... Mmmm

[martyo]

Mensrea:

I have not heard from someone who has replaced the sub. A few of us did remove the scotch brite foam from the factory sub. For me it made a world of difference. I am not sure I need to do the factory sub at this point. I used the Kappas that you used on your car on my boat. Having heard those speakers, I doubt that you'll need to do the sub if you do the scotch brite removal.

[gja]

I, for one, cannot see (hear?) the need for a subwoofer transplant. The current driver has enough output to rattle the entire back deck tray. And that is not nearly all the way up. I will be coming up with a neat and solid way to secure the tray so there can be no chance of rattle or buzz. I will post when I do it, which is loking to be sometime in spring thanks to this bloody SNOW!

[TAF]

I DON'T have the guts to o this myself, so I am having it done.

A couple questions:

1) Any of you use "Dynomat" for the entire rear decklid and for around the speakers in the doors? Any comments on doing that?

2) I found some Infinity speakers that I like better than the Pioneer. Not only do I like the sound (I know it's a subjective thing, different strokes, etc.) Feature I REALLY like is the tweeter can be "positioned" so to through sound from the rear speakers forward and from the door back and up...any thoughts on this?

Thanks in advance for the help from those of you who are much more "in-tune" (sorry)...

[RF Overlord]

toddalan:

I like the Infinity sound, too...I had a pair of old Reference Studio Monitors that I bought in the early 80's that only recently gave up the ghost (the woofer surrounds disintegrated), and were replaced with a set of Wharfedales only because I could finally afford my dream speakers...

Which Infinitys did you get? Were they a direct replacement, or did you have to "custom mount" them? How about wiring harness adaptors?

[SergntMac]

Originally posted by toddalanfisher

1) Any of you use "Dynomat" for the entire rear decklid and for around the speakers in the doors? Any comments on doing that?

2) I found some Infinity speakers that I like better than the Pioneer. Not only do I like the sound (I know it's a subjective thing, different strokes, etc.) Feature I REALLY like is the tweeter can be "positioned" so to through sound from the rear speakers forward and from the door back and up...any thoughts on this?

I haven't found a need to update my MM system...Yet.

I admit I've been listening to other things for some time now. I know I'm going to get into this someday. I had a '97 Mountaineer with the JBL system, and that rocked. In my '98, I got something called a "Mach" system, and I was so disappointed, I wrote LM a nasty note telling them "It's spelled mock, not Mach!" A bottom/top overhaul followed, and that Dynomat stuff added a lot of sound deadening improvement to the car as a whole. I lined the doors and the back end, but it's not cheap stuff either. Use sparingly, but use it, for sure. I also selected JBL speakers, because I was impressed by the '97 system. On par with the Infinity stuff, it's a few dollars more than Pioneer, but both are worth it, IMH hearing opinion.

Thanks, Todd, now I got another mod budget to juggle...LOL

[TAF]

and your welcome for the new "mod spend" (although some other boys here got this/me started on this)

I like the idea of the Dynomat. Net/Net...just the material itself to cover the entire rear shelf and most of both fron doors is about $100 and labor will run about $50-$75 for it to be done. Plus, $35/pair on speaker hookup. I'm figuring "while they got the door apart..."

Money doesn't grow on trees in Atlanta, either (although it DID get above 60 today RF :flamer: an my tomatoes are starting to bloom...

I just need to provide the "proper speakers" for "The Boss"...

I looked at some JBL's...nice stuff, whats got me is the "pivoting tweeter" especially with low and awkward placement of the front speakers in the door. And, I DON'T want them to cut any holes for a component system.

Any other thoughts from other experts?

[Black Badger]

Originally posted by toddalanfisher


A couple questions:

1) Any of you use "Dynomat" for the entire rear decklid and for around the speakers in the doors? Any comments on doing that?



I'll be doing the car in spring with dyamat see "sig"

[TAF]

Holy Moly, BB!!!!

36 SQ Ft!!! You doing the entire inside of the car??!! Actually, the guy I'm talking to has done this before, several of times...he said. Strip it to bare metal inside, Dynomat Extreme and put everything back. He says its "like a vault"...I LIKE that idea but my cost would be $4k to do it.
:bounce:

[Black Badger]

Most of it ……Trunk, rear deck, door’s, floor, behind and under rear seat. My neighbor works for a high-end audio place that does auto installations. (Jags, beamers etc) with 20 yrs experience he’ll do the job.

Ps. I buy the dynamat..... He owes me a favor or 2

[TAF]

VERY cool, BB!!!

I LIKE the idea...just not the price I got. Guess I need to make such friends, eh?

[Black Badger]

Do a search you can find some deals on the net for dynamat.
buy a box a month like I'm doing so the hit to the pocket is not that hard

[CRUZTAKER]

Tod:
I am still trying to find out the city I will be in, but it is definately the second week of March. If you can wait.......

I'LL do your speaker's over some cold ones, and enjoy it too.:beer:

Most of the dynomat you can do yourself, if you want that is. Alot of the individuals who do this to their vehicles are grabbin' hi current and throwin' massive wattage, (or trying to cover up horrible road noise). The point here: Keeping sound in, keeping noise out, weighing the car down more, and putting materials that (potentialy) hold moisture in your doors. The weight we can do with out.

Remember cutting out old crap in our hotrods to lose more weight.....smog pumps, a/c , condensors, sheetmetal.....etc.
:rock:

Seriously, think about the dynamat, few of us are going to audio competitions and the MM has a relatively quiet ride for such a suspension. Atleast for 10 years or so....sooner for others. Put the dough in better speakers, xm, slowpokes carchip, or better yet, your pocket :up:

[martyo]

Wait, this isn't fair. I can't keep up with you guys!!

You guys need a hobby....Wait, this is a hobby...Oh, never mind!!

[WolfeBros]

Cruz.......good advice and well said. :beer:

[tomd]

Originally posted by FordNut
It's a shame Ford has gone to the generic low-bid speakers. My Mark VII(s) came with factory installed JBL speakers and they still sound great after 15 yrs.

My 1992 Grand Marquis LS also came with JBL speakers, by far the best sounding car radio I ever had. I guess that was the 1st and only year it was offered in the Grand Marquis LS, I’m assuming the older folks didn't want to pay the $800 or $900 to get this radio.

[CRUZTAKER]

Originally posted by gja
OK,
I have completed the four corner install and here are the facts:
Rears and fronts are 6x8 size......
I chose to use Pioneer TS-A6870R at all 4 positions......
.I ALWAYS leave the original connector in place and solder the new lead inline......


:rolleyes:
If I may reiterate, IMHO the pioneer TS-A6870R are a good value at $79.99 retail. I have experience with their 2000 model 6870 and they were well suited to the basic audiophile, can take what power a FACTORY radio has to offer, and up to a good clean 50w amp...

Unless you have intentions of re-cabling the entire car with say 10 to 14 AWG wire................

Please don't cut or solder the harness wires. :nono:

What I do suggest is to buy the retro-harness. It will adapt the factory speaker plug harness to the speakers. Best Buy and Crutchfield have them. Best Buy= Turbowire pn.#72-5600 $5.99/pr. ***BUY TWO***

I was un-aware that FMC changed the harness connector assy. It's round now, instead of rectangular. They carry both at Best Buy, but the young man had no clue as to which one was required for my car. Later I find it's printed on the package, I guess he wasn't a reader.

GJA: I am absolutely not flamin' you,
IMHO, Solder good........ but on old cars or large power connections where a pressure h-tap is not possible.

[MAD-3R]

"Best Buy" and "no clue" Go together like Harp and Guinness. Can't have one without the other.

[CRUZTAKER]

He asked "what kind of car do you have?"

When I said Marauder, he paused a moment,
......and asked "what year"?

:help:

[Fourth Horseman]

Wow, you guys are making this way too easy. Thanks for the part # on the adapter harness, CRUZTAKER.

As soon as my bank account recovers from buying my new Mac I'm going to be doing this upgrade. I'm fairly excited to get better sound! :banana:

[CRUZTAKER]

All I could AFFORD was the harness. :cry:

I was actually hunting down the rolled coin in the bottom of the dresser.
Man, times are tough.....

They look good sitting on the floorboard though, think I'll move them to the trunk tomorrow......closer to the speakers.:rolleyes:

[CRUZTAKER]

OK! Sc***** up some change and did REAR speakers. Here's what I learned:

Speakers $79
Harness' $15
Time: An amazing 14 min.
............getting done before my wife got home..............

PRICELESS :shot:

[jgc61sr2002]

CRUZ - Nice work. How do the new speakers sound? John :up:

[CRUZTAKER]

Somewhat crisper, but until the front get done it difficult to say. Besides, I am from the old school, back in the day, I would have torn out EVERYTHING and started from scratch.......
:uzi:

But then the cars were cheaper, I was singler, had more fun-money, and was OK with being door lock punched and ripped off every few months. (Is singlER a word??)

Anyway, NOTHING sounds good to me anymore,
besides, I kinda enjoy that exhaust from the rear, now THAT is like a melody....
:P

[TAF]

Nobody has commented on my earlier post reguarding Infinity Speakers. Here the are. I like the sound better than the Pioneer and I like the "swivel" tweeter...any thoughts guys?

http://pix.crutchfield.com/products/2002/108/h1085725.jpeg

[CRUZTAKER]

Yes,yes, I actually was considering those for fronts.

Swivel good.

Best part about Best Buy, take 'em back if you don't like them.

[TAF]

I like the swivel A LOT, especially for the doors to be positioned back and up. Think I'm going to take the plunge with these.

[martyo]

Todd: I am using those excat speakers in another application. They are great! Warning: don't judge 'em right after you put 'em in. They need to break in and will get better as you use 'em. Ask RF or beemer about this issue and they'll agree.

[CRUZTAKER]

Tod, I re-read the thread and can't find a mention of that model number and price. Saving me a cold walk to the barn for Crutchfield mag., how about sharing with all of on this one.

Thanks.

PS How far are you from the city I mentioned?

[TAF]

Infinity Reference 5752cf 5X7s

Crutchfield has them for $69/pair

Lawrenceville is about 30 miles NW of me. I'm in the city in an area called Buckhead. Let's make sure we meet for some :beer:

[gja]

Cruz,
The reason I chose to solder was more for the fronts than the rears.
I am not at all sure the connectors that come stock are really good if they are infiltrated by water/moisture. Hence the soldered connections. The trunk/rears are of no consequence, the adapters ARE the way to go there, as long as the don't introduce loss due to connector mating.

I have looked over the stock connectors very carefully and do not like the pin/wiper design, it is VERY poorly designed and I am fairly sure they have a lot of loss. The spade connectors that come with aftermarket speakers are MUCH better at providing a good electrical/mechanical contact.

Again, take this with a grain of salt, I am an electonics engineer and am very tough to please/impress when it comes to these things. I expect too much for these companies to actually make me happy. I HATE these 'quick-and-dirty' assembly-line connectors. I am a solder-and-shrinkwrap,strain-relief-it kinda guy. I think it is only sealed if you can submerge it in salt water for 2 years and it does not corrode at all. And you should be able to pull the car a good distance with it without it ripping loose.

Overkill?, you betcha. But I have NEVER had a connector get screwed up and force me to go in a second time to make repairs. When I do it, it is as good as can humanly be done, my piece of mind.

And BTW Todd, that is not at all unusual for speakers to need a 'break-in' period. The foam surrounds are often stiff fromthe factory and the frames often cause a twist in them right after installation, this abates as they settle in.

Cruz: if you think Bestbuy folks are dense try Circuit City.
ME: "I need some 6x8s for me car"
CC: " You mean 6x9s, I don't think they make those except for the factory"

DUHHHHH.

ME: Buh BYe

[CRUZTAKER]

You are right sir, if she's a keeper....go for it. :)

[TAF]

Hopefully I can report back in a few days wheen I get them installed (for a LOT more than you paid CRUZ)

I need to fly you or g in here to help me...

[TAF]

Your thoughts on Dyno-mat the entire rear deck and around the speakers in the doors?

[martyo]

Todd: Just do it yourself! We'll talk you through it. I can send you instructions with pictures and I can be available by telephone if you want........

[gja]

Todd,
I really cant see using the d-mat on the doors. The panels on our the panther body are exceptionally solid. I don't think they wil produce buzzing or rattle. Plus the way the door panel hinges back in place is really far better than the chevy 'white push pin' method. It is very easy to get a loose fit on the chevy, not the panther-body door.

That being said, the rear desk NEEDS some resonance control. I can get a pretty serious buzz/hum harmonic going. I intend on applying some type of countermeasure to stop this. Only notice it since the speaker upgrade, BTW. most likely due to the much cleaner sound and high bass output.

I will likely pull the rear deck cover completely off so I can have clear access to the metal deck structure. I intend in covering the entire deck with silencing mats (not sure if I will use the consumer oreiented Dyno-Mat brand or large format roll stock intended for shops, I have access to both). And will also put a hard felt layer on top of that to abate and metal to metal/plastic contact from cover to deck.

I will post, and let you know what I do.

[TAF]

Thanks g!

I'm definately doing the rear deck. I still have the "membrane" covering my subwoofer that needs to be pulled while they're in there. I wasn't planning on doing the entire doors but just the normal 10" X 10" around the speakers.

Black Badger is the man who's doing what I'd love to do and that's Dyno-matting the entire interior...make it sound like a vault...

Let me know how you come out...

[TAF]

Just came back from Circuit City. They have the Infinity speakers I pictured above on sale for $69.99 (same as Crutchfield)...

Got a price, out the door including:

2 pair of speakers
Dynomat Trunk Kit
Addaptors
Install including entire deck lid and both front doors with available Dynomat
Tax

$335.00

I think this is the ticket for me. Hopefully Monday.

[martyo]

Todd: Not a bad deal. The install should take them less than two hours. Make sure they don't hurt your baby while they are working on her!! Try to pull it into the service bay yourself (the kids love driving these cars).

[TAF]

with Infinity speakers installed all around. Comlete Dynomat of both front doors and rear deck.

WOW...what a difference!!!!!:banana: :beatnik:

[Slowpoke]

after last night's chat session, i went online and bought 2 pair Infinity Reference speakers from Crutchfield - they throw in the harness adapters for free. I will do the install myself.

Wondering if anyone knows exactly what tools I will need to remove all access covers to do the install?

[tomd]

Sorry this may be a stupid question, I haven’t been reading all of these threads. Are you guys just replacing the speakers and NOT the Radio???

How the sound when you just replace the 2 back ones?

[jgc61sr2002]

Poke Check with stanleyk He installed the same speakers. John