Fuel filter/lack of care/rear end.

[jjaguda]

FUEL FILTER:
Bought my MM with 52k on the odo. So far I've changed nearly all the fluids. THis weekend, I realized that I did not change the fuel filter, so, I pulled it this morning. Guess its original as it was full of a dark brownish flakey gook. Stuff poured out the inlet side when I turned it.

LACK OF CARE:
Its unbelievable how people can spend over 30k for a car and not take care of it! I kinda feel like I rescued this car. The more I get into cleaning and maintenance, the more amazed I am at the lack of care the previous owner applied. Although I can't b*&%h too much because of the price I paid for the car, why do people spend 30k+ and then take care of the car like they bought a 15 year old Yugo? OK, I'm finished venting.

REAR END:
THe MM now has 54k on it. I've read opinions that range from changing the rear end fluid now, to waiting until 100k. Aside from if and when I change the gears, what is a practical point to change the rear oil? I don't want to crack a dry seal if it is not necessary. On the other hand I'll pop it open in a heartbeat if the experience of the folks on this site would sugest so.

ALMOST 3 MONTHS AND I STILL HAVE THE EAR-TO-EAR GRIN.

[michburt]

Not trying to be a smart a$$, but where is the fuel filter? I have not changed mine either.

Mike

[jstevens]

I believe fuel filter is under car, passenger side.

[BillyGman]

Here are my viewpoints on the three topics you've brought up.....

"Fuel Filter"
I'm satisfied with the stock fuel filter. My Marauder is S/Ced, has bigger than stock fuel injectors (which came w/the S/Cer kit) and a Kenne Belle fuel pump amplifier(which also came w/the S/Cer kit). The car runs 12.0 second quartermiles, and the stock fuel filter has been just fine after me puting an aggressive 24,000 miles on the car(13K of which was after the S/Cer installation). However, I believe there is very good reason why the manual recommends the fuel filter being changed at 24,000 mile intervals. My Marauder just reached the 24K mark on the odometer about ten days ago, and I had begun to notice a slight hesitation at full throttle.

So I changed the sparkplugs and the fuel filter( this was the first fuel filter change for this car) and the problem was eliminated. The car is back to it's healthy and normal self even at full throttle. :) The sparkplugs looked perfect although I changed them anyway. I saved them since they probably could be re-gapped and used over. They wouldn't even need to be cleaned. They looked that good. So I have reason to believe that the fuel filter was already beginning to clog up a bit, and it was noticeable right around the 24K mark on the odometer. The stock fuel filter was $16 from the Ford dealer, so I didn't balk at changing it. It's located on the passenger side underneath the car right in front of the right rear tire.

But you first have to disconnect the battery, and let the pressure out of the fuel injection rail that's ofcourse under the hood where the fuel injectors are. It's easy to do, but be sure to wear safety glasses!!! I was very glad that I did because I got a face full of gasoline when I let the pressure out. Eyeballs and gasoline do NOT mix!!!!!! You merely have to look at the driver's side of the fuel rail, and at the front of it you'll see a black cap that needs to be turned to remove it just like a valve stem cap on a tire. When it's off, you simply take any thin pointed object such as a philips screw driver or a pen, and press down on the valve insert to relive the fuel line pressure just like you would let the air out of your tire valves, and hold it in for a couple seconds. If you don't disconnect the battery first, then the gas will continue to pump out of the valve, and the pressure will not be relieved even if the ignition key is off.

Once the pressure is relieved you can remove the fuel filter w/out very much gas squirting put all over the place. BTW, the fuel filter has a bracket with a hose clamp on it which has to first be removed. And the two fuel lines attached to the filter itself have white plastic inserts on them with two small tabs on each one. you simply have to squeeze the two tabs together and yank the fuel lines off. then when you install the new fuel filter, (making sure it goes in the same direction) you simply squeeze those two plastic tabs together on the fuel line as you push the line on the new filter.

"Lack of care"
self explanatory...........

"Rear End"
If there aren't any major modifications done to the car, such as headers, rear end gears, aftermarket torque converter, S/Cer, and there aren't extreme tires mounted on the back wheels such as drag radials, then chances are that the car wasn'r raced at the track very often (if at all). Therefore I wouldn't worry about the rear end fluid until atleast the 70,000 mile mark unless ofcourse there was a trailer hitch mounted to the car by the previous owner. I believe the Ford manual recommends a fluid change at 100K, and 70K for severe duty applications.

[King Fubar]

The stock fuel filter was $16 from the Ford dealer, so I didn't balk at changing it. It's located on the passenger side underneath the car right in front of the right rear tire.
Do you need one of those handy pain in the ass quick disconnect tools for the filter?

[jjaguda]

Here are my viewpoints on the three topics you've brought up.....

"Fuel Filter"
I believe there is very good reason why the manual recommends the fuel filter being changed at 24,000 mile intervals. My Marauder just reached the 24K mark on the odometer about ten days ago, and I had begun to notice a slight hesitation at full throttle.

But you first have to disconnect the battery, and let the pressure out of the fuel injection rail that's ofcourse under the hood where the fuel injectors are. It's easy to do, but be sure to wear safety glasses!!! I was very glad that I did because I got a face full of gasoline when I let the pressure out. Eyeballs and gasoline do NOT mix!!!!!! You merely have to look at the driver's side of the fuel rail, and at the front of it you'll see a black cap that needs to be turned to remove it just like a valve stem cap on a tire. When it's off, you simply take any thin pointed object such as a philips screw driver or a pen, and press down on the valve insert to relive the fuel line pressure just like you would let the air out of your tire valves, and hold it in for a couple seconds. If you don't disconnect the battery first, then the gas will continue to pump out of the valve, and the pressure will not be relieved even if the ignition key is off.

Once the pressure is relieved you can remove the fuel filter w/out very much gas squirting put all over the place. BTW, the fuel filter has a bracket with a hose clamp on it which has to first be removed. And the two fuel lines attached to the filter itself have white plastic inserts on them with two small tabs on each one. you simply have to squeeze the two tabs together and yank the fuel lines off. then when you install the new fuel filter, (making sure it goes in the same direction) you simply squeeze those two plastic tabs together on the fuel line as you push the line on the new filter.

"Rear End"
If there aren't any major modifications done to the car, such as headers, rear end gears, aftermarket torque converter, S/Cer, and there aren't extreme tires mounted on the back wheels such as drag radials, then chances are that the car wasn'r raced at the track very often (if at all). Therefore I wouldn't worry about the rear end fluid until atleast the 70,000 mile mark unless ofcourse there was a trailer hitch mounted to the car by the previous owner. I believe the Ford manual recommends a fluid change at 100K, and 70K for severe duty applications.
BillyGman:

Thanks for the reply. I'll likely leave the rear end alone until 70k, or gears, whichever comes first.

I've never relieved the fuel pressure before. Its been my experience that after the car sits for several hours, the pressure dissipates. That has been consistent with the MM as well as the four previous CVs I owned.

As for the fuel filter change interval itself, I did not even take the time to check the factory recommendation. Since nothing else on the car was maintained, I figured that the fuel filter was original as well. I was right. I've never seen a fuel filter with so much gunk in it.

[BillyGman]

Do you need one of those handy pain in the ass quick disconnect tools for the filter?No you don't. atleast not for the marauders. I never even knew that there was such a thing, but I replaced the fuel filter w/out having one. The Ford manual says to relive the fuel pressure, so that's what I did. It's easy enough to do. Infact, the reason that I got a face fullof gas was simply because i didn't think that the battery really had to be disconnected as long as the ignition was turned off. So I left the battery connected, and the gas just kept on pumping out. So i learned the hard way that you have to disconnect the battery like the Ford shop manual says to.

My guess is that if you don't relieve the fuel line pressure first as jj has implied, then the filter can still be changed, but you might very well get more gasoline all over the place than you would've had you relieved the fuel line pressure first. And incidently, if I had to disconnect the battery in order to stop the fuel flow at the relief valve on the fuel rail, then that indicated=s that the fuel pump will also be pumping the fuel out of the ingoing fuel line as soon as you remove it from the old fuel filter. Sounds like it would be a mess to me, unles you atleast disconnect the battery first.

Unless ofcourse my experience has something to do with my car having the kenne belle fuel amplifier on it. I doubt it, but I cannot be certain.

[CRUZTAKER]

I agree with Billy in regards to advice for your scenario. Do not bust open the rear if it's stock. Watch your manual for trans fluid flush intervals. Perhaps you're ready, or over due for that at 52k. Likely no need to pull the filter, perhaps a back flush will get'er done.

Since I have modded my trans and rear gear, I will stick to an every 15k lube change on the trans and rear gear. I don't drive in the winter, so 15k doesn't come as quick as it might for others. I am also hard on the car when it is in service.

I have been bad regarding the fuel filter. I am at 26k and still have the original. I am probably overdue, but last year I had considered going with the DR fuel filter mod. I have since decided to merely go with the larger fuel filter as discussed in one of the forums here. That's the one I will go with when the car goes back into service in April.

Good luck, and enjoy your new toy.

BTW: If the car was not taken care of as you say, pull the rear seat and clean under there. Who knows what is under there. I'd foam clean the carpets as well.

[BillyGman]

yes! That's an excellent point that Barry has made about the need for the Transmission fluid flush and change.I think that our transmissins are the weak ling in these drivetrains. I believe it calls for that every 24K also, however doing it more often isn't a bad idea IMO. Since I'm puting a lot more HP and torque through the transmission on my Marauder than the stock set-up did, then I actually am fanatical about the transmission routine maintainence, and I have it done every 6,000 miles. BTW, when you have that done, you might want to call ahead to your dealer's parts department to order a new transmission fluid filter, because the dealer that I have my transmission flushed and filled at does NOT change the filter while they're doing that unless the customer requests that. :rolleyes:

[King Fubar]

No you don't. atleast not for the marauders. I never even knew that there was such a thing, but I replaced the fuel filter w/out having one. The Ford manual says to relive the fuel pressure, so that's what I did. It's easy enough to do. Infact, the reason that I got a face fullof gas was simply because i didn't think that the battery really had to be disconnected as long as the ignition was turned off. So I left the battery connected, and the gas just kept on pumping out. So i learned the hard way that you have to disconnect the battery like the Ford shop manual says to.

My guess is that if you don't relieve the fuel line pressure first as jj has implied, then the filter can still be changed, but you might very well get more gasoline all over the place than you would've had you relieved the fuel line pressure first. And incidently, if I had to disconnect the battery in order to stop the fuel flow at the relief valve on the fuel rail, then that indicated=s that the fuel pump will also be pumping the fuel out of the ingoing fuel line as soon as you remove it from the old fuel filter. Sounds like it would be a mess to me, unles you atleast disconnect the battery first.

Unless ofcourse my experience has something to do with my car having the kenne belle fuel amplifier on it. I doubt it, but I cannot be certain.

Was curious I had an F-150 that needed a tool the wrapped around the fuel line and slipped into the lip of the filter to release it.

[RF Overlord]

I've changed the fuel filter on a number of Ford products (my MM, my '94 T-bird SC, my buddy's '98 CV, and a couple of GenIII Taurii) and I've never disconnected the battery or relieved the pressure...I usually do the fuel filter change last, after changing the oil, transmission fluid, etc and by the time I get to the fuel filter, there's never any pressure left to speak of. But as Gman said, please DO wear safety goggles...some gas does squirt out...

Concerning the differential fluid, it's up to you...I don't buy into the "lubed for life" scenario...I believe the manufacturers do that sort of thing so the public will think their cars require less maintenance than they really do...it's primarily marketing hype. I'd do it at least every 50k...

[rayjay]

Another trick for the fuel pressure is to pull the fuse for the pump and let the car run till it dies, no fuel, no pressure.

[DEFYANT]

I changed the fuel filter in my ole Cobra and didnt bleed the system. I ended up covered in gas too. At least a coffee can full of fuel came pissing out all over the place!!! I'll not make that mistake again!

BillyGman, what tools did you use on the fuel filter to remove it from the vehicle? I had to use a tool that was a PITA to get the snap ring released.

[MENINBLK]

IMO...

FUEL FILTER:
Change every 20 - 25,000 miles...

REAR END:
Service at least every 2 years or every 24,000 miles.

Guys, don't listen to FORD's recommendations.
If I was running FORD, from the point of view of service, you all would be POOR by now.
Nothing makes more profit than SERVICE.
But being IGNORANT is no excuse for not enough service and maintenance either.

Oil has a shelf life, just like all other fluids.
Oil, once opened cannot stay for any length of time without oxidizing.
I know very well that the rear end ear oil is as thick as molasses,
but that isn't any reason not the change it if it stays "as thick as molasses".
The Rear end oil should not stay in the rear end for more than 2 years.
After 2 years, its been oxidized past its useful life, even if the vehicle was garaged for 2 years.

Start thinking with your heads, please ! :help:

How many of you flush your brake fluid every 2 years ? Huh ??
Do you realize that this is NORMAL MAINTENANCE in most of Europe ?

[DEFYANT]

Brake fluid change is important. Especially if you get the brakes very hot.

[BillyGman]

I changed the fuel filter in my ole Cobra and didnt bleed the system. I ended up covered in gas too. At least a coffee can full of fuel came pissing out all over the place!!! I'll not make that mistake again!

BillyGman, what tools did you use on the fuel filter to remove it from the vehicle? I had to use a tool that was a PITA to get the snap ring released. I didn't have more than about 2 or 3 ounces of gasoline poor out, and it was actually out of the filter itself that it came out of. There really wasn't any gas coming out of the fuel lines for me at all, and I had just come from a long drive, and had shut the engine down about ten minutes before that.

The only tool I used was a screwdriver for removing the screw on the hose clamp that goes around the body of the filter, and through the filter bracket. I needed no tools at all to remove the fuel lines from the filter. I just squeezed the white plastic tabs on the fuel lines together while sliding off the lines from the filter, and they came right off. Please wear safety glasses just incase my friend.

[jjaguda]

One more observation. . .

Noticed an additional seat-of-the-pants increase in performance with the change of the clogged fuel filter to a nice pretty new one. It must have been worse than I originally thought. The exhaust even sound a little louder.

Or, I'm just imagining the whole thing.

[fastblackmerc]

One more observation. . .

Noticed an additional seat-of-the-pants increase in performance with the change of the clogged fuel filter to a nice pretty new one. It must have been worse than I originally thought. The exhaust even sound a little louder.

Or, I'm just imagining the whole thing.
While you are changing the fuel filter why not put a larger one in? The Ford number is FG800A I believe. I'll be doing just that this week.

:cool:

[wchain]

I've changed the fuel filter on a number of Ford products (my MM, my '94 T-bird SC, my buddy's '98 CV, and a couple of GenIII Taurii) and I've never disconnected the battery or relieved the pressure...I usually do the fuel filter change last, after changing the oil, transmission fluid, etc and by the time I get to the fuel filter, there's never any pressure left to speak of. But as Gman said, please DO wear safety goggles...some gas does squirt out...

Concerning the differential fluid, it's up to you...I don't buy into the "lubed for life" scenario...I believe the manufacturers do that sort of thing so the public will think their cars require less maintenance than they really do...it's primarily marketing hype. I'd do it at least every 50k...


^^^
What he said.
What we do at the shop, (since we usually cant wait to do it last) is remove the wiring harness from the fuel inertia/shutoff switch, take the cap off the gas tank and crank the car, sometimes it runs for a second sometimes it just cranks. But that'll assure you that it's pressure free!

[DEFYANT]

These are great tips!!! Thanks.

My car sat around for awhile before I bought it. Can the filter go bad just from being old and not much use?

[BigCars4Ever]

IMO...

FUEL FILTER:
Change every 20 - 25,000 miles...

REAR END:
Service at least every 2 years or every 24,000 miles.

Guys, don't listen to FORD's recommendations.
If I was running FORD, from the point of view of service, you all would be POOR by now.
Nothing makes more profit than SERVICE.
But being IGNORANT is no excuse for not enough service and maintenance either.

Oil has a shelf life, just like all other fluids.
Oil, once opened cannot stay for any length of time without oxidizing.
I know very well that the rear end ear oil is as thick as molasses,
but that isn't any reason not the change it if it stays "as thick as molasses".
The Rear end oil should not stay in the rear end for more than 2 years.
After 2 years, its been oxidized past its useful life, even if the vehicle was garaged for 2 years.

Start thinking with your heads, please ! :help:

How many of you flush your brake fluid every 2 years ? Huh ??
Do you realize that this is NORMAL MAINTENANCE in most of Europe ?
I do, $120 every two years at FORD is cheaper than a $1100 ABS pump. (internals are steel??)

[RF Overlord]

My car sat around for awhile before I bought it. Can the filter go bad just from being old and not much use?

No, the filter should be fine...unless the car sat for a VERY long time, like years...

And I also agree w/fastblackmerc...upgrade to the FG-800A filter when you change it...there's a how-to in the FAQ...