rotor replacement

[duhtroll]

Hi -

I just spent a bit of time searching thru the archives about warped brake rotors, why they warp, and how to replace them.

Here's what I need. (couldn't find) I will be doing front rotors soon. I will also do pads while I'm at it. I want a rotor with a lifetime warranty, (if possible, DEFINITELY something better than OEM) but I do not need a complete brake upgrade. The stopping power is fine for me, (i.e. I do not need bigger) but the pulsing ain't fine.

What suggestions would those who have done just rotors/pads make as far as brand/type?

I am willing to spend *some* extra for better rotors, but I don't want to be in this for a grand. If I'm going to do that I might as well buy a complete kit, and I don't have that kind of cash right now.

Thanks,
-A

[RoyLPita]

Just for kicks, check out Ebay Motors under "Mercury Marauder" At one time, they had about 5 different sets starting at $235 for all 4.

[TechHeavy]

Hi -

I just spent a bit of time searching thru the archives about warped brake rotors, why they warp, and how to replace them.

Here's what I need. (couldn't find) I will be doing front rotors soon. I will also do pads while I'm at it. I want a rotor with a lifetime warranty, (if possible, DEFINITELY something better than OEM) but I do not need a complete brake upgrade. The stopping power is fine for me, (i.e. I do not need bigger) but the pulsing ain't fine.

What suggestions would those who have done just rotors/pads make as far as brand/type?

I am willing to spend *some* extra for better rotors, but I don't want to be in this for a grand. If I'm going to do that I might as well buy a complete kit, and I don't have that kind of cash right now.

Thanks,
-AHey, check out the thread, "closs-drilled/slotted rotors" that I contributed to, (near the end)... I don't recommend these rotors! My stopping feels "squishy" and weak. I'll be letting TCE re-do my brakes this Spring. (Just my advice about the eBay "power" rotors).

Here's the thread: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13474

[SouLRioT]

Some guys have NAPA rotors maybe they'll chime in. My suggeston is to get a complete set when you can afford it. I have the Baer kit and one thing you need to do every so often is stomp on them to clean off any build up from the pads (which some have thought were warped because of this).

[sailsmen]

Be sure to use some locktite on the 2 caliper bolts or they will fall out!

[duhtroll]

Been there, done that, bought the t-shirt. Wore it painting.

-A

:D


Hey, check out the thread, "closs-drilled/slotted rotors" that I contributed to, (near the end)... I don't recommend these rotors! My stopping feels "squishy" and weak. I'll be letting TCE re-do my brakes this Spring. (Just my advice about the eBay "power" rotors).

Here's the thread: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13474

[TooManyFords]

I just spent a bit of time searching thru the archives about warped brake rotors, why they warp, and how to replace them.

Here's what I need. (couldn't find) I will be doing front rotors soon. I will also do pads while I'm at it. I want a rotor with a lifetime warranty, (if possible, DEFINITELY something better than OEM) but I do not need a complete brake upgrade. The stopping power is fine for me, (i.e. I do not need bigger) but the pulsing ain't fine.

What suggestions would those who have done just rotors/pads make as far as brand/type?

-A
I know you're looking for an upgrade but I'd just pop the rotors off, have them turned [~$20] and put them back on with some new pads. Then save up some money over the summer and get that cool brake upgrade. A pulsing pedal is annoying, I'll agree there!

.02

Cheers!

john

[duhtroll]

Good idea. However, I should have been more clear.

How about Mr. Foreman's line "I'm not gonna pay a lot for these brakes?"

A full upgrade would be nice, but I ain't spending the cash for it - not now, not ever. All I need are some reliable rotors that won't warp, if I can get them for less than an appendage.

Thanks,
-A

[TooManyFords]

A full upgrade would be nice, but I ain't spending the cash for it - not now, not ever. All I need are some reliable rotors that won't warp, if I can get them for less than an appendage.
-AMyth: You can buy a "warp-proof" rotor.

Fact: All rotors can warp. Some are manufactured to be more "warp resistant" than others but you pay for it and they can still warp under extreme conditions. What's the term? Appendage? ;)

So, weigh the number of miles you got out of your current set against the price of turning the ones you have (again, this is very inexpensive) and move on. When you have them turned, the shop will tell you how much is left and if you need to replace them or not. When they wear or turn below the safety spec, you replace them.

It just depends on how you drive whether or not you need the expensive drilled, slotted, spanked or whatever rotors for your car. If you need to stop in a hurry, there is no mistaking that $$ rotors will help. They will and it is proven.

Me? Mine are just fine and I plan on turning/replacing as needed. My racing is done 1320 feet at a time and there is plenty of shut-down room to not stress the brakes.

Another .02!

John

[HotrodMerc]

Hi -

I just spent a bit of time searching thru the archives about warped brake rotors, why they warp, and how to replace them.

Here's what I need. (couldn't find) I will be doing front rotors soon. I will also do pads while I'm at it. I want a rotor with a lifetime warranty, (if possible, DEFINITELY something better than OEM) but I do not need a complete brake upgrade. The stopping power is fine for me, (i.e. I do not need bigger) but the pulsing ain't fine.

What suggestions would those who have done just rotors/pads make as far as brand/type?

I am willing to spend *some* extra for better rotors, but I don't want to be in this for a grand. If I'm going to do that I might as well buy a complete kit, and I don't have that kind of cash right now.

Thanks,
-A
Good suggestion from TooMany, dep. on how bad any warpage is. I'm not a mech'l. or other type engineer, but i think what CAUSES warpage is too much heat at one time period ? Larger rotors may not be necessary for more stopping power dep. on how you drive, but they can dissipate more heat more quickly, and if you've got warpage, you probably had too much heat for your rotors at one or more times. So larger rotors, less wt. of the car, lots more cool air to the brakes, less speed, or all of the above, would lessen the heat problem. I had warped rotors on the F150, without very many stopping attempts from over 65 or 70, but did a lot of towing of the Mustang with only one axle of brakes on the trailer, and a lot of harder use of the brakes with the way i drive in town, consequently, warped rotors at about 75K mi. If it was just my wife driving the truck - no warped rotors.
If you warped one set the way you drive, likely you'll warp another of same size, regardless of drilling etc. Its a matter of the physics involved, and I would also like to find a set of rotors for a normal price, not a carbon fiber price, that's guarranteed to not warp, esp. considering the warpage behind the steering wheel ( :D my driving, like a NY cab).

FYI: i talked with a guy at discbrakes r us.com who said they sold a lot of brakes to Mustangers, and i bought a master cyl. from them, not installed yet.
It seems they have been around a good while, but the guy had not heard of MM's, so i told him about this site. They may have something to offer, and what he said about their rotors and calipers sounded good, but that's all i know about it. MAYBE a cost-effective alternative to some of their competitors? If i were looking for rotors now, i would certainly consider larger, and be shopping around too. Good luck! :burnout:

[duhtroll]

I certainly don't think it's my driving habits. Or at least I hope not. Otherwise I need to take the granny course.

I have 35K on the car now. It's 90% highway mileage.

I shouldn't need new rotors as I don't abuse the brakes since I don't really beat on the car all that much (just a couple WOTs per week to keep the plugs clean, but that's on highway onramps and therefore the brakes don't enter that equation as I don't go above, er, the speed limit, yeah . . .)

I have had Fords need rotors earlier than other cars in my exp.. That doesn't mean it's definitely a Ford problem, but it seems common from what I've read.

I may turn these instead of replacing, but I was looking at this problem thinking that if I can only turn them once I'll be in this same boat again in a year, so why not get more durable rotors now and have them last much longer or indefinitely? If they are out there I'd like to find them.

Thanks,
-A

[SouLRioT]

No one has done it yet, but knowing that my rear brakes just have the upgraded rotors, I'm sure there are stock replacements from baer in the EradiSpeed rotors for the fronts.

http://www.baer.com/Products/EradiSpeed/Images/EradiSpeedLogo.gif (http://www.baer.com/Products/EradiSpeed.aspx)

EradiSpeed rotors come with the following features:

Faster thermal recovery
Increased heat absorption
Increased friction and lower wear
Crossdrilled, slotted, and zinc washed
Limited lifetime warranty against warping

[jjaguda]

Once I had an old time mechanic tell me to hand torque the wheels with a torque wrench - evenly (~100 lbs if I recall corectly). That seemed to solve the warped roter problems I had with my little 96 and 97 Corwn Vics' tiny rotors. The way the old timer put it, if the rotors are torqued unevenly, excessive stopping and heat will help warp the rotors. Especially with the small CV's rotors attempting to stop a 4k+ lb car.

I don't know if the old timer was right, but after I started using the torque wrench, I don't recall having had the problem again.

[Todd TCE]

Actually...there are few 'stock rotor upgrades' that I'm aware of for this car.

Yes, there are drilled. Yes, there are slotted. And yes, there are both. And in a number of zinc colors to boot.

The key here being 'stock size' parts. Rotor mass is the same as is theremal capacity and torque values. Holes, slots, zinc doesn't matter.

Dennis had done some two piece replacements I think some time ago and they could be consdered a modest 'upgrade' at least. They were two piece and thus weighed a bit less and they were truly directional in design thus aiding air flow for cooling. With due respect however the gains are not in braking 'power' but rather repeated ability of the rotor to work better-longer.

The real benefits come from better pads. This is where the torque is and the 'bite' that you may want. The down side is that sticky pads generate more heat. This heat has to go somewhere- into the rotor. Here the two piece design does come out on top of ANY standard one piece rotor.

Ebay, NAPA, anyone. A stock size, one piece replacement will not improve braking. *The only valid counter to this is that slots aide in cleaning pads thus help with boundary layer build up: better bit, but not more thermal capacity. When hot they are still hot.

[GordonB]

One way to go is to get the rotors cryogenically treated. According to the Corvette people, this may be the way to go although I do not know what the long-term stability of these rotors is personally. I can attest to the fact that big rotors dissipate more heat faster which is better. I have 25K miles on my '00 Vette and have ZERO pulsing and those are the STOCK rotors. However, I have never used the brakes on a Road Course Track -- a Road Course is MURDER on brakes!!!

If my MMs had warped rotors, I would press the dealer for a new set. Right now, the Red MM has 9K on the odo and NO pulsing; the Blue MM has about 11K and NO pulsing.

If the pulsing rotors were on my nickel, then I would try turning them ONE TIME and see what the results are.

GordonB

[DL04]

Duhtroll- Thermal Research in Largo,Fl treats rotors and pads,suppose to improve performance and make the rotors last 3-4 times longer.Flescher a member here had them done there,I believe it was @$60,worth a try- get a hold of him see how he likes them.

[dwasson]

Nobody has mentioned that rotors are frequently warped by improperly torqued lug nuts. You see this more when the shop uses the air wrench without the torque rods.

[MENINBLK]

The BEST insurance against warping your rotors is to make sure your lugs nots are TORQUED EVENLY and CORRECTLY.
Even if you have your service guy take the wheels off to inspect/replace brakes,
when you get your Marauder home, TORQUE the LUG NUTS !!!

This insures even pressure on all the lugs, and that translates to even pressure around the rotor.

[MENINBLK]

Nobody has mentioned that rotors are frequently warped by improperly torqued lug nuts. You see this more when the shop uses the air wrench without the torque rods.

I didn't see you had posted this, but you are right.

[BigCars4Ever]

I was going to look into the raybestos superstop rotor for police and taxi duty. I figured they must be better than stock if designed for fleet use. http://www.raybestos.com/usa/rotors.htm# Not too expensive either.