different gears

[torinodan]

does anyone use anything other than Ford Racing gears? I just order Motive 4.10's and wanted some feedback on them before I can't kill the order. I got the install kit with them with new shims so there should be any install problems unless my bearings are gone right?

[Blackened300a]

The install should be cut and dry, When mine were done, We needed a Shim between the bearing and the pinion gear for the depth and then we needed a few shims on each side of the carrier to give pre-load on the bearings. Make Sure you Lock Tight the bolts that hold the ring gear on!! If your bearings and races are good, Then it should be a no hassle install. Be sure the Gear Lash is correct, I believe it was .008"-.012" Or else you will get a whine out of the gears.

Hope this helped

[Bradley G]

I don't know all the throwout lash pinion stuff.

I had a Ford tech that has an '04 Mach I do mine,Two weeks prior he did 4:10's on his own car. He used a new pinion bearing and nut.Ford gear oil, friction modifier.The only mistake he made is not to turn off the Air ride suspension switch in the trunk.I did not have any issues with that or any whine at any speed. Sorry I have not heard of anyone using this brand of gears. Where did you learn about them>?
Bradley G
:banana2:

[torinodan]

Got them here: http://www.mustangtuning.com/rearend.html seems like a good deal and was wandering if anyone was running something other than Ford.

[Bradley G]

For the difference a couple bucks doesn't seem worth it.

If you have any negative issues, the x-tra labor and fluids to change over, will be way more. :twocents:
I know this is not what you asked for ,But I may have read every thread on the forum before I got the nerve to change mine:o :stupid:
Bradley G

['03BlkMM]

I got the Motive 3.90's from the same place. I love them. I did a lot of researching about them on the Mustang boards before I bought them. They are every bit as quiet as stock if they are installed properly. Mine are actually quieter than my stock gears were, my stock gears had way too much backlash so they were noisy.

[rocknrod]

What is the stock rear gear ratio on a 2004 MM ?

[Rider90]

What is the stock rear gear ratio on a 2004 MM ?
3.55 Trac-Loc

[torinodan]

Anyone else with input good or bad???

[Phil @ FLP]

We pretty much only use Ford Motorsport gears at our shop as they are much more consistent for being quieter.

[Captain Steve]

There's an almost $60 difference between the Motive and FRPP 4.10s.

I wonder if the FRPP gears come with the parts they are selling for $35 for the Motive gearsets.

[torinodan]

Got my gears yesterday, they look great and I got everything but bearings. Looking for a place to install now. I think I'll do the install on base at the hobby shop. Any takers for help that live around Camp Pendleton?

[SergntMac]

I've changed gear ratios in two Marauders, one was a stock MM with OEM 3:55 gears, the other was the Kenny Brown 1x with Richmond 4:10s in place. The first time was for a performance upgrade from OEM gears, not a problem. The second time, it was a necessary repair because my rear end blew apart. This build was a surprise to me, because the first build of this rear end was full of shortcuts. Shortcuts not certified by Kenny Brown.

Both times, I ordered the optional setup kit that contains ALL the spacers, shims, hardened ring bolts, crush sleeve, and seals, and whatever other crap you may need for a correct setup, first time around.

So many times in my life I have seen wrenches shrug off missing parts, incorrect shims, seals, sleeves and proceed anyway, I wasn't about to let that happen with my MM. Both times, I decided to provide everything that could possibly be needed in a fresh build, and in effect "measure twice, cut once".

This worked for me. I was not disappointed by handing the wrench this kit, and despite the extra parts left over, everything got done right the first time. IMHO, taking a rear end down is a one-time thing. Take it apart, and it should not go back together until all the correct parts are in place, otherwise, you will be taking it down again, somewhere and some time down the road.

If you don't have all the correct parts in hand, it's a waiting game between what's available locally, and what must be ordered, shipped and delivered. I prefer to have it all in hand at the build, and get it all done right in one shot. At once, and right now, works for me. So what if a few shims are left behind?

Anyone needing Ford Racing part numbers, drop me a line at SergntMac@aol.com

[wesman]

Does anybody know the Torque Bias Ratio of the stock diff?

I take it 5:1 means one wheel will spin a bunch and 2:1 the 'locking' will happen sooner.

[wesman]

Found it:

"When torque imbalance reaches the bias ratio, the internal gearing allows differential to occur. For example, if 450 ft-lbs of torque is applied to the ring gear, a 3.5:1 bias ratio Torsen T2R will distribute 350 ft-lbs to the inside wheel and 100 ft-lbs to the outside wheel while allowing a difference in wheel speeds."
from the Torsen T2R site.
http://www.globalwest.net/torsen_traction_differential.h tm

[fastblackmerc]

Found it:

"When torque imbalance reaches the bias ratio, the internal gearing allows differential to occur. For example, if 450 ft-lbs of torque is applied to the ring gear, a 3.5:1 bias ratio Torsen T2R will distribute 350 ft-lbs to the inside wheel and 100 ft-lbs to the outside wheel while allowing a difference in wheel speeds."
from the Torsen T2R site.
http://www.globalwest.net/torsen_traction_differential.h tm
I had the FRP 4.10 installed in my '04. Just used the new crush collar that came with the kit. No shims needed to be added or taken out. Pattern & lash were perfect. Used Reline oil. The gear swap went so easy the tech charged me $200.00 instead of the $250.00 we had agreed upon. He did get two cases of brew also..... Have 3,000 + miles on them and running as quiet as when first installed. Use red Locktite on the ring gear bolts. Now might also be a good time to install a shiny hiney stud girdle.

[oldekid]

I don't know all the throwout lash pinion stuff.

I had a Ford tech that has an '04 Mach I do mine,Two weeks prior he did 4:10's on his own car. He used a new pinion bearing and nut.Ford gear oil, friction modifier.The only mistake he made is not to turn off the Air ride suspension switch in the trunk.I did not have any issues with that or any whine at any speed. Sorry I have not heard of anyone using this brand of gears. Where did you learn about them>?
Bradley G
:banana2:Bradley, I'm having my gears replaced this Friday.

This may be a stupid question, but what does the air ride suspension have to do with this? Do I need to tell them to turn it off first? Is this just because it's up on a lift?

I'll take an answer from anyone on this. :beer:

[SergntMac]

Bradley, I'm having my gears replaced this Friday.

This may be a stupid question, but what does the air ride suspension have to do with this? Do I need to tell them to turn it off first? Is this just because it's up on a lift?

I'll take an answer from anyone on this. :beer:
Depends on the style of lift. If you drive on to ramps and the entire car stays on the ramps while in the air, don't worry about the air suspension.

If the car is going to be lifted by the frame (either from the side, or, underneath) and the tire are lifted off the ground, shut off the air suspension first. Otherwise, the system will be at max PSI when the car returns to the ground, and it will take a while for it to restore a normal ride. In some cases, damage may occur. This is also recommended when just lifiting one tire off the ground, and it's probably a good habit to develop.

The on/off switch is in the trunk, driver's side. There will be a warning lamp on your dash while the system is off.

[oldekid]

Depends on the style of lift. If you drive on to ramps and the entire car stays on the ramps while in the air, don't worry about the air suspension.

If the car is going to be lifted by the frame (either from the side, or, underneath) and the tire are lifted off the ground, shut off the air suspension first. Otherwise, the system will be at max PSI when the car returns to the ground, and it will take a while for it to restore a normal ride. In some cases, damage may occur. This is also recommended when just lifiting one tire off the ground, and it's probably a good habit to develop.

The on/off switch is in the trunk, driver's side. There will be a warning lamp on your dash while the system is off.Thanks for the quick reply. I'm thinking the lift is going to be by the frame, so I'll make sure the system is shut off in advance.