K&N Outter Sock Idea!

[blackf0rk]

There have been a few debates about the outter sock (pre-filter) used with the K&N filters to keep dust and grime to clinging to the oil on the filter.

The oil on the filter also has lead to a discussion about it ruining the MAFS'. So what about having some type of INNER-SOCK or (after filter), to prevent the oils from clinging to the MAFS'?

Some people have told me NOT to use a K&N for the whole oily residue problem. And others have sad you'll hear and feal the difference. I want to upgrade the intake, but at what cost? :depress:

So what does everyone think about an "after-filter"?

[MM2004]

I have the JLT intake on mine and no problems to speak of. It is the same type filter as the K&N. Gotta be easy on the oil once re-charging the filter.

No pre-filter on this and don't plan on one.

Other members have the stock air box w/Trilogys and are still kickin' azz!

Up to you dude.

BTW, JLT is about $100.00 cheaper.

Mike.

There have been a few debates about the outter sock (pre-filter) used with the K&N filters to keep dust and grime to clinging to the oil on the filter.

The oil on the filter also has lead to a discussion about it ruining the MAFS'. So what about having some type of INNER-SOCK or (after filter), to prevent the oils from clinging to the MAFS'?

Some people have told me NOT to use a K&N for the whole oily residue problem. And others have sad you'll hear and feal the difference. I want to upgrade the intake, but at what cost? :depress:

So what does everyone think about an "after-filter"?

[blackf0rk]

Thanks MM for the info...but what about the "after-filter" idea?

[2003 MIB]

Thanks MM for the info...but what about the "after-filter" idea?
So, you would envision some sort of pantyhose like screen over the intake tube itself? I can't see any harm to it unless the suction tore the hose and sucked stuff into the throttlebody. The solution would be something thicker and stronger but wouldn't that negate the increased airflow?

I think the easiest thing to do is not over-oil the filter. My .02

[Blackened300a]

I have the PHP Cold Air induction. I looked closely to be sure it wasnt dripping in oil. Chances are if you see oil around the Inlet of the filter, Its oiled Way too Much! If the oil coat is uniform and not excessive, you won't have any problems I have had the Air Box on the car for 3 months and no issues

[metroplex]

I'm using the stock Mann paper filter... I think it is fantastic.

[SergntMac]

At what point does your effort to sceeen out contaminates choke the benefits of a K&N filter? The more dust and grime you try to block out, the more air you're blocking out as well.

The stock MAF (and the SCT Big Air) have self cleaning elements for minor contamination, but they can get clogged too. Why not simply establish a period of maintenence, when you spend a hour tearing down the air induction/MAF path and clean everything? Even back in the days of carbs, simple maintenence is part of the ownership program. It isn't anything a spray can of carb cleaner can't fix.

[ctrcbob]

I'm going to tell you guys a secret. (Don't tell anyone, OK?)

I have not bought an Air Filter in over 20 years! (Perhaps even 30 years).

Do any of you "older guys" remember a brand of Air Filter called "Lee Filters"?
Well, for you younger guys, back in the days that Carburators sat on top of engines, Air Filters sat on top of the Carburator, and they were all round. Lee Air Filters looked just like any other filter, except it had an extra (pre-filter) Foam Ring around the whole filter. (The pre-filter was green). If you pulled this pre-filter off, the filter looked like any other filter. Although they never said so, you could remove the green pre-filter, wash it out, and replace it over the outer edge of the filter.

Well, I went a step further (for the past 20 or 30 years). With all my cars and Motorcycles, starting with a clean filter, I take a piece of foam, (the type used for the filter on room airconditioner units - must be thin enough - quarter inch or eighth inch) that when placed over your mouth, you can breath easy through it, cut it to shape, pre fit it, make sure it's clean, then I spray it with Air Filter Oil (that you can purchase at any motorcycle shop). I blot out any extra oil, and I then place the "pre-filter" over the regular air filter.

Any oil on the pre-filter does not get past the regular filter so it does not harm the electronics.

1. Have never had a problem. Easy to clean the pre-filter, re oil, then replace back on the regular filter.
2. Some filters are much harder to fit. I.E., my Continentals, which use a round filter, that looks like a coffee can, but being careful, I can make a pre-filter for that also.
3. The Marauder filter is a snap to make. Flat and easy to fit.

Whenever I feel like it, I just remove the pre-filter, clean it out in soap and water, let it dry, spray it with filter oil, and replace. Easy.

Because the material is so thin, it has never hurt the power of any of my cars or motorcycles, plus it has never hurt the fuel milage of them either.
Case in point: All my Continentals, including my present Continental, 275HP InTech V8, get 18 to 22 all round driving around the county, and on long trips, get 26.5 to 30.5.
Have not had my Marauder long, but so far, all round driving around the county, I get 18 to 21. Have only taken car on one short trip, but on that one, I got 26.5.

Leaving on a trip next Saturday, with the Marauder. Will total about 3000 miles, so when I return a week later, I will have a better idea of what the OTR milage is.

Now remember, don't tell anyone my secret. ;)

[fastblackmerc]

I have the JLT intake on mine and no problems to speak of. It is the same type filter as the K&N. Gotta be easy on the oil once re-charging the filter.

No pre-filter on this and don't plan on one.

Other members have the stock air box w/Trilogys and are still kickin' azz!

Up to you dude.

BTW, JLT is about $100.00 cheaper.

Mike.
I have the JLT also, just don't over oil it. I might consider an over filter / pre filter if it said "MARUADER" on it.

[MM2004]

Not too receptive to the idea. I had several discussions with Jay prior to purchasing his kit and do not see where a pre and/or post filter is necessary, IMHO.

Of course, where I live and driving the beast part time also helps in keeping the filter pretty clean.

Just my :twocents:. And then some.

Mike.


Thanks MM for the info...but what about the "after-filter" idea?

[Tucker]

Just some food for thought:
K&N uses polyester pleted filters. When Polyester gets hot it will secreat the oils in it.

I (JLT) use S&B filters. S&B uses cotton pleted filters. When they get hot they hold in the oils.

But, as everyone says, don't get to heavy with the re-oiling and you will be fine.
I think if you start putting pre-filters, after filters and the actual filter, your better off leaving it stock as you will be restricting air flow.

Just my opnion and some fact.:beer:

[David Morton]

I used to get my shorts in a wad over trying to save $10 for a new filter! Youth, always looking for a better way. Screw the experience of a bunch of old farts.

It's cheap insurance. Clean air is a must. Same thing goes for the oil, wiper blades, ATF, coolant, tires.

I've had customers that got 200,000 miles with no problems, make and models of almost all types and they had one thing in common, they did regular maintenance. They changed oil every 3000 miles, replaced coolant and ATF every two years and the air filter every year.

You can free-up some extra HP by just removing the filter altogether you know! It's a trade-off though. Think about it.

By all means get a sock, my lawnmower has one. What do those engineers at Mercury know anyway? I'm smarter than they are.

:rolleyes:

[Dan19063]

My question is this. I thought K&N filter are supposed to last 50,000 miles before cleaning. Are you guys that high in mileage that you are needing to clean and reoil the filter? Or is it that the K&N cold air intake filter sits in the open as opposed to the original filter in the box. If so when should I be cleaning my K&N cold air intake filter?

:confused:

Just some food for thought:
K&N uses polyester pleted filters. When Polyester gets hot it will secreat the oils in it.

I (JLT) use S&B filters. S&B uses cotton pleted filters. When they get hot they hold in the oils.

But, as everyone says, don't get to heavy with the re-oiling and you will be fine.
I think if you start putting pre-filters, after filters and the actual filter, your better off leaving it stock as you will be restricting air flow.

Just my opnion and some fact.:beer:

[Rkammer]

There have been a few debates about the outter sock (pre-filter) used with the K&N filters to keep dust and grime to clinging to the oil on the filter.

The oil on the filter also has lead to a discussion about it ruining the MAFS'. So what about having some type of INNER-SOCK or (after filter), to prevent the oils from clinging to the MAFS'?

Some people have told me NOT to use a K&N for the whole oily residue problem. And others have sad you'll hear and feal the difference. I want to upgrade the intake, but at what cost? :depress:

So what does everyone think about an "after-filter"?I can provide some insight on this subject even thouge I'm new to this site and will pick up my MM next week. I've had my Turbo Buick for about 12 years. I installed my K&N filter when I bought the car in 1993 and the MAF behind the filter is still the factory original MAF. No pre or post filters and I oil the K&N (moderately) about once avery 2 years. I have put almost 100,000 miles on the car since buying it. Never had any issues with the MAF and in the dusty Central Florida climate to boot. I see no problem with just running these Hi-Po filters just the way they come out of the box. :)

[metroplex]

K&N states they use cotton gauze for their filter materials.