Help needed with A/C blower not running

[Cuyax]

A few days ago, my AC blower fan quit running. It came on once since then and then went off and never returned. It does not matter what I do on the automatic climate control, it still just makes a clicking sound once on some relay in the dash (which I have not located) each time the scroll knob is turned up or down.

I have tested the blower motor direct to the battery and it works fine. I also have taken the climate control head unit completely out a does not appear to have any bad connections. While the blower is plugged directly to the battery all the doors work correctly for moving the air to the floor/dash/and defrost positions and blows cold if the car is running.

Any ideas what is keeping my fan from working? I do not have an voltage at the plug that goes into the fan when checking it with a multimeter.

Also, does anyone have the diagram to the dash handy so I can figure out how to get to the relay that is clicking? Just in case it is dead? I remember someone stating there fan getting stuck in the full speed position and they replaced a part to fix it. Could it be the same part? I don't have $600 for a new head unit and have only had my 2003 for about a month. This is killing me.

Thanks,
Chad
:(

[MENINBLK]

If you've got less than 36,000 miles it is still covered under the Bumper-to-Bumper warranty.

[Rider90]

Welcome to the site.

A very common problem with the blower motors on 96+ Panthers is they fail after a lot of use. Pop the hood, get the handle-end of a screw driver or a rubber mallet, and tap the blower casing a few times with the switch on. If the fan surges on, then your motor is failing. If not, your motor may have already failed or the problem lies somewhere else.

[Cuyax]

If you've got less than 36,000 miles it is still covered under the Bumper-to-Bumper warranty.
Unfortunately, no it has around 50K.

[Cuyax]

Welcome to the site.

A very common problem with the blower motors on 96+ Panthers is they fail after a lot of use. Pop the hood, get the handle-end of a screw driver or a rubber mallet, and tap the blower casing a few times with the switch on. If the fan surges on, then your motor is failing. If not, your motor may have already failed or the problem lies somewhere else.
Thanks, as I stated above the fan is working great when plugged directly to the battery but the plug is dead (0 volts).

[Rider90]

Thanks, as I stated above the fan is working great when plugged directly to the battery but the plug is dead (0 volts).

Try calling up a service tech at a dealer over the phone, asking what could be wrong, would they tell you? or ask you to come in? Tell them you are from out of town and you are doing a search of local dealers asking what could be wrong and you are getting a price quote from them. Get the quote, thank em, and head to Napa or Autozone.

[Cuyax]

Try calling up a service tech at a dealer over the phone, asking what could be wrong, would they tell you? or ask you to come in? Tell them you are from out of town and you are doing a search of local dealers asking what could be wrong and you are getting a price quote from them. Get the quote, thank em, and head to Napa or Autozone.
I will try the phone technique tomorrow. When I went into the parts department at the closest dealer, they said there were only two parts:

The blower
The head control unit

And to save alot of headaches I should just bring it in. Like H*ll...

[RoyLPita]

I have heard of the head unit going bad. If you only have the high setting, then it is the blower motor resistor.

[Wires]

I may be speaking out of turn, especially since I don't have my wiring diagram here at work, but I don't think the Marauders have blower resistors - the speed is controlled in much finer increments electronically by the AC head unit using some kind of power semiconductor.

Most resistor systems offer 4 speeds, three speeds through the resistors and one direct, but we have at least 5 or 6, or more (I never bothered to count.)

If I had a spare 10 grand or so, I'd buy a wrecked MM that is close to me and have a bunch of spare parts I could "experiment" with to answer such questions.

Looks like the Head unit to me, or, some wiring to the motor, if the motor works with 12 volts jumpered to it.

[Cuyax]

Any ideas what the clicking relay sound is down deep in the dash when I move the scroll the fan switch up and down?

Thought maybe it was not fully engaging or something.

Has anyone pulled out the entire dash on one of these rigs?

Thanks for everyone's insight,
Chad

[RoyLPita]

Any ideas what the clicking relay sound is down deep in the dash when I move the scroll the fan switch up and down?

Thought maybe it was not fully engaging or something.

Has anyone pulled out the entire dash on one of these rigs?

Thanks for everyone's insight,
Chad


Blend door actuator. The dash has to be removed in order to replace it. I had one go bad on my 1st 1992 GM LS HPP.

[Cuyax]

There must be some type of relay to the fan as it is too much current draw for a direct splice into the head unit. Even when jumpering the fan with a wire slightly smaller than the wires on the fan plug the wires got hot showing some resistance to a conductor being too small. There are no wires on the head unit that are equivalent gauge as the ones under the hood.

Keep the ideas coming...

Chad

[Cuyax]

Btw, does anyone know if the head unit is interchangeable with 2000+ models of Grand Marquis and where to buy a used one?

Thanks,
Chad

[djv5150]

I had a similar problem had it in the shop last Friday my ac only worked on high.stuck could not turn off this is what they replaced.
F8VZ-19E624-BC, EATC Speed Controller Kit with Harness, $108.38

[Cuyax]

I had a similar problem had it in the shop last Friday my ac only worked on high.stuck could not turn off this is what they replaced.
F8VZ-19E624-BC, EATC Speed Controller Kit with Harness, $108.38
Any idea where this harness is located?

[LordVader]

I had a similar problem had it in the shop last Friday my ac only worked on high.stuck could not turn off this is what they replaced.
F8VZ-19E624-BC, EATC Speed Controller Kit with Harness, $108.38^^^^^What he said! I had the same part replaced under warranty three weeks ago.

[Cuyax]

^^^^^What he said! I had the same part replaced under warranty three weeks ago.
Did you happen to know where they replaced the harness? Physical locale on the car?

Btw, I noticed these units on ebay and wanted to know if you guys knew if it would work on an MM if the head unit really is bad?

Thanks,
Chad

[Cuyax]

I think I may have found the culprit. I think this is the device that you folks had replaced:

http://www.p71interceptor.com/eatcswap/

Checkout the part about the speed controller. Most of yours have shorted and mine may have failed in the open position. Will check it out tonight. This appears to be the answer to the question earlier about the 4 speeds verses the 6 - infinite speed positions in the MM. It is a darlington transistor, not a resistor type like the manuals have.

[Wires]

Good info.

To-3 case transistors (and darlington transistors) are pretty common. Before paying 100 bucks or so, I'd try replacing it, unless the whole thing is sealed in epoxy or something making it impossible to get to the leads.

[Cuyax]

Good info.

To-3 case transistors (and darlington transistors) are pretty common. Before paying 100 bucks or so, I'd try replacing it, unless the whole thing is sealed in epoxy or something making it impossible to get to the leads.
Is this a radio shack item or what do you suggest for obtaining these transistors.

[Wires]

If you have a good Radio Shack near you, they might have an MJ11028.

I can't find one on radioshack.com.

Turns out, that's a pretty "high end" device.

www.newark.com (http://www.newark.com/) will sell just one, but with their handing fee (for small orders) and shipping, it'll run about 20 bucks.

This guy's got a MJ11032 on E-bay - a slightly higher rated transistor that should work as well:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3879419720&category=4663&ssPageName=WD1V&rd=1

Data sheet for MJ11028 and MJ11032 (also mJ11030, should work as well. I'll study this and make sure - I'll edit this if I am incorrect.)
http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MJ11028-D.PDF

It's a judgement call - risk 20 bucks to save 110 or so, or pay 110 or so and be sure that you will be OK.

I guess depending on one's level of skill, desire to try something, etc. one would bve justified going either way. I'd try it, but I can understand someone else not doing so.

I'll keep looking.

[Cuyax]

<!--StartFragment --> If you have a good Radio Shack near you, they might have an MJ11028.

I can't find one on radioshack.com.

Turns out, that's a pretty "high end" device.

www.newark.com (http://www.newark.com/) will sell just one, but with their handing fee (for small orders) and shipping, it'll run about 20 bucks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3879419720&category=4663&ssPageName=WD1V&rd=1

It's a judgement call - risk 20 bucks to save 110 or so, or pay 110 or so and be sure that you will be OK.

I guess depending on one's level of skill, desire to try something, etc. one would bve justified going either way. I'd try it, but I can understand someone else not doing so.

I'll keep looking.I have a degree in electronics repair but have not used it in a long time. I am not familiar with this type of power amplifier and so I did not know whether they were all interchangeable or required special specifications for the amperage handling of the blower fan, etc.

Thanks for the info...

[thePunisher]

yes we replace alot of the blower speed controlers at work. they are located on the heater box toward the middle of the firewall. its like a little module...basically it functions the same as the reisitor.....i bet if you tap it with a small screwdriver or hammer your blower will come back temproarily.

[ctrcbob]

A few weeks ago, I had just the other thing go wrong. The blower was on full blast, no matter how the A/C was set. Could not even shut it off except with ignition off. Turned out to be the "Controller" which is under the hood, on the right side firewall. Dealer replaced it in minutes.

[Cuyax]

By Joe, I think you are right. I wiggled the cable on the controller harness slightly and it came back on. I was considering changing the transistor but it may be just a bad connectionon the cable. what do you think?

[spidercar]

I've got a different but related problem. Blower works fine, but whether set on A/C, heat, defrost, or simply fresh-air vent, air only flows from defroster vents (on top of dash at bottom edge of windshield), the side vents on top of the dash (to defrost the driver/passenger windows), and from the under-dash vents that are directed on your feet.

It seems like the ventilation duct "flaps" are stuck in the defrost/heat position. I can't get any airflow of any sort out of the four vents on the face of the dashboard.

The car still cools off fine with the A/C on, and I get cold air coming out of the small vent openings at the rear of the center console, but after a long highway trip with the A/C on my feet get pretty cold.

Any suggestions?

Neil B.
Oconomowoc, Wisc.

[Cuyax]

I've got a different but related problem. Blower works fine, but whether set on A/C, heat, defrost, or simply fresh-air vent, air only flows from defroster vents (on top of dash at bottom edge of windshield), the side vents on top of the dash (to defrost the driver/passenger windows), and from the under-dash vents that are directed on your feet.

It seems like the ventilation duct "flaps" are stuck in the defrost/heat position. I can't get any airflow of any sort out of the four vents on the face of the dashboard.

The car still cools off fine with the A/C on, and I get cold air coming out of the small vent openings at the rear of the center console, but after a long highway trip with the A/C on my feet get pretty cold.

Any suggestions?

Neil B.
Oconomowoc, Wisc.
Sounds like a vacuum issue. There is a bundle of vacuum lines that is right underneath the glove compartment. It is multi-colored. Make sure that they are all attached. Also, it could be the vacuum lines attached to the head unit. Finally, it could be a failed actuator door somewhere near the blend door.

[Blackened300a]

I've got a different but related problem. Blower works fine, but whether set on A/C, heat, defrost, or simply fresh-air vent, air only flows from defroster vents (on top of dash at bottom edge of windshield), the side vents on top of the dash (to defrost the driver/passenger windows), and from the under-dash vents that are directed on your feet.

It seems like the ventilation duct "flaps" are stuck in the defrost/heat position. I can't get any airflow of any sort out of the four vents on the face of the dashboard.

The car still cools off fine with the A/C on, and I get cold air coming out of the small vent openings at the rear of the center console, but after a long highway trip with the A/C on my feet get pretty cold.

Any suggestions?

Neil B.
Oconomowoc, Wisc.
I have this same issue. If you turn the A/C off and on a few times it will start to work, But accelerating makes the A/C not blow out the vents as strong as its set to be, and then when you let off the gas, the Vents start blowing out normally. Its a Vacuum Leak that I cant seem to find! Im covered under warranty but I like to repair it myself so I dont have my Car tied up at the dealership. I havent pulled the unit out yet to look behind it, this weekend I may plan to rip and tear

[fastblackmerc]

I have this same issue. If you turn the A/C off and on a few times it will start to work, But accelerating makes the A/C not blow out the vents as strong as its set to be, and then when you let off the gas, the Vents start blowing out normally. Its a Vacuum Leak that I cant seem to find! Im covered under warranty but I like to repair it myself so I dont have my Car tied up at the dealership. I havent pulled the unit out yet to look behind it, this weekend I may plan to rip and tear
Definately a vacume leak. All cars have a fail-safe HVAC system... if you lose all vacume you get high heat to the defrosters so you can see to drive.

[spidercar]

Thanks guys for the help, I'll check the vacuum lines.

Neil B.

[JACook]

www.newark.com (http://www.newark.com/) will sell just one, but with their handing fee (for small orders) and shipping, it'll run about 20 bucks.

This guy's got a MJ11032 on E-bay - a slightly higher rated transistor that should work as well:
A direct replacement for the MJ11032 is the NTE2349. NTE is carried by most _real_ electronics stores, or you
could order it from Mouser (http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayprodu ct&lstdispproductid=234297&e_categoryid=131&e_pcodeid=52600) for $16.44 plus actual shipping. Mouser does not have a minimum order, and does
not charge a handling fee.

[Cuyax]

A direct replacement for the MJ11032 is the NTE2349. NTE is carried by most _real_ electronics stores, or you
could order it from Mouser (http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayprodu ct&lstdispproductid=234297&e_categoryid=131&e_pcodeid=52600) for $16.44 plus actual shipping. Mouser does not have a minimum order, and does
not charge a handling fee.
Cool. Thanks, I think Fry's Electronics carries that model no. for about $20.