problem with install

[the fat bastid]

so me and my friends just finished installing the kit and when i start the car it revs up like it was wot.

any ideas?

we've taken the boost-a-pump out...no change
taken out the chip...no change
the trottle wire is not kinked or being pulled in anyway..the trottle blades dont move.

since the trottle body isnt opening i assume that means tons of fuel is getting dumped in for it to rev like that...?

:help:

[jstevens]

Who's kit. Brand? That might help with clues.

Edit: Boy do I feel stupid. Sorry.

[the fat bastid]

well, the trilogy kit..thats why i posted in here ;)

[MM03MOK]

The throttle body spacer is upside down. Page 84

:bunny2:

[BillyGman]

taken out the chip...no change

:help:Whatever you do, I would strongly advise you NOT to run a supercharged car without the chip that was burned for it!!! That can be very bad for your engine, and can cause detonation since an N/A air/fuel ratio will not be rich enough for a supercharged engine, and the ignition timing will be much too advanced also.

You said that the throttle body blade doesn't move? Is it stuck open? If it were stuck closed, then the engine wouldn't get any air, and therefore won't run. But I don't understand how your throttle cable can be hooked up properly if the throttle plate isn't moving since the cable controls the plate position. Perhaps there's someting else wrong (as Mary indicated ) that's hanging up the throttle body plate. but if the plate is stuck in the open position, then that leads me to believe that the throttle cable is stuck in the open position.

Are you sure that the hood didn't make contact with the throttle cable when it was shut, and possibly kinked it? The only other thing I can think of, is that if you received the same type of chip in your kit that I received with mine, then there's a small wire on the side of the chip that has to be hooked up for some cars, while some cars don't need it to be hooked up. it's dependent upon the four letter computer code that your Marauder has. But as far as I know, even if you have that small wire plugged into the chip, and it isn't neded (or vice versa) then the worst that can happen is nothing will happen at all when you turn the key, and the engine will not start. In which case you would merely plug in the wire (or disconnect it if you already had it plugged in) and the car wouls start right up. but since your car is starting, then my guess is that this isn't the problem. If you don't find the problem today, then you should call Trilogy first thing tomorrow morning.

[the fat bastid]

The throttle body spacer is upside down. Page 84
throttle connection towards the firewall right?
i dont have the book infront of me right now so maybe i have the wrong part in mind...


Whatever you do, I would strongly advise you NOT to run a supercharged car without the chip...

ya, we put it back in as soon as we noticed no change. we didnt run it, just turned it on once...just a diagnosis check thing.


You said that the throttle body blade doesn't move? Is it stuck open? If it were stuck closed, then the engine wouldn't get any air, and therefore won't run. But I don't understand how your throttle cable can be hooked up properly if the throttle plate isn't moving since the cable controls the plate position. Perhaps there's someting else wrong (as Mary indicated ) that's hanging up the throttle body plate. but if the plate is stuck in the open position, then that leads me to believe that the throttle cable is stuck in the open position.

let me clarrify, the blades are not stuck, just closed during all this. i tested the pedal and they pull and close fine. the cable connections are towards the
firewall so i think its on the correct way. when i start the car, they are closed and stay closed. so its not that they are stuck open and the car is getting too much air.



Are you sure that the hood didn't make contact with the throttle cable when it was shut, and possibly kinked it?

na, the hood was open for all this.


If you don't find the problem today, then you should call Trilogy first thing tomorrow morning.

thats why i'm bombin the boards right now...stupid sundays!

[BillyGman]

na, the hood was open for all this.



Yes, but if it was shut before the first time the engine was started, and it made contact with the cable, it might have crushed, and/or kinked it, and now the kink doesn't allow it to work properly even when the hood is open. But I just thought of another thing. This was the only thing that confused me during the entire installation, and if you had some friends help you with the installation, then you better ask all of them who put their hands on the new fuel injectors about the following:

I noticed that the new fuel injectors had these plastic rings on the ends of them. It almost looked like a protective cap that was supposed to be removed, but it wasn't really a cap, but a ring with a hole in it on each injector. the thing is that the old injectors didn't have that which lead me to ponder if they should be removed on the new ones before installing them, and when I called the dealer, as well as a couple parts stores, they all told me to remove them, but I noticed that I would've had to pry them off with a screwdriver or rip them off with a pair of pliers, which led me to believe that they were pressed on by the manufacture which would indicate that they're supposed to stay on there, and that it might damage the injectors if i was to pry them off. So i called Trilpogy, and one of their engineers told me to leave them on and so i did, and the car has run fine ever since the installation.

So the question is....did you or one of your buddies pry these plastic caps or rings off of the new injectors thinking they were simply there for protection? because if you did, then that might be ytour problem.

[MM03MOK]

throttle connection towards the firewall right?
i dont have the book infront of me right now so maybe i have the wrong part in mind...It's the spacer not the throttle body itself. It's about a quarter inch thick and goes between the throttle body and the inlet. The Spacer has an inward curve on one side on the inside. That should be placed with the inward curve pointing down.

Apply silicone sealant on both sides of the Adapter Throttle Body
Bolt together Throttle Body, Adapter Throttle Body and Spacer Throttle Body with 4 M6 bolts that are reused. Make sure that components are assembled correctly.

[nexstar7]

:D where you drinking at the time :D because i started after i read this post.

[BillyGman]

:D where you drinking at the time :D All joking around aside, I think that's often the problem when guys invite their friends over to "help" with some mechanical automotive work. That may or may not apply to Gavin, but I believe that it does to a number of others, and is sometimes the problem. (no offense Gavin. That isn't neccessarily aimed at you).

[BillyGman]

Okay, one more thing that you didn't mention.....when the engine is turned off, and someone gets in the car with the hood open and the intake tube removed, and thay tap the gas pedal, can you see the throttle plate open and close freely? If not, then this is definately your problem.

[Lidio]

Any time an engine revs very high with out any throttle input, it means that some how or another its getting air, and lots of it. Weather its the T/B stuck open slightly or some sort of another large vacuum leak. Its not a chip or B.A.P. type problem or any fuel delivery type problem in any way. It could get as ugly as having to remove the entire blower and intake to have a look around for a un-hooked hose or a gasket that got dislodged.
Start with the throttle body and hope fulley it will be that simple.

Good luck.

[FordNut]

It's the spacer not the throttle body itself. It's about a quarter inch thick and goes between the throttle body and the inlet. The Spacer has an inward curve on one side on the inside. That should be placed with the inward curve pointing down.

Apply silicone sealant on both sides of the Adapter Throttle Body
Bolt together Throttle Body, Adapter Throttle Body and Spacer Throttle Body with 4 M6 bolts that are reused. Make sure that components are assembled correctly.

Sounds like the voice of experience...

Makes sense, isn't that where the Idle Air Control valve connects?

[Smokie]

I'm just trying to help, so if this sound stupid just ignore.

If the linkage to by-pass actuator is jammed or hose is off, you would have boost when you should have vacuum. If bypass fails and you have boost at all times, would this cause the symptoms described???

[Tallboy]

I sent you my phone # in a pm. If you're still having problems, give me a call...:cool:

[MM03MOK]

Sounds like the voice of experience...

Makes sense, isn't that where the Idle Air Control valve connects?Yes, it does.

[the fat bastid]

Mary,
you da bomb.
Remind me to buy you dinner at mv3.
it was the the adapter plate thing.
i got a little confused because you refered to it as the spacer and the install manual calls the big metal elbow the spacer and thought "there is no way in hell thats upside down"
but its all good now.
it idles a little funny right now but i think thats the computer relearning.

i'm sure i'll post again once i see something else wrong tomarrow.


where you drinking at the time

LIKE YOU WOULDN'T BELIEVE! YEEEEEEEEEHAW!!!

[HwyCruiser]

FB, glad to hear you're getting everything squared away.

Congrats on the acquisition... the blower count this summer is rising at a staggering pace!

[BillyGman]

COOL!!!!! I'm glad to hear you got that corrected. Mary nails it!!!!!:banana2:

I'd call Trilogy if that rough idle doesn't go away though. My car didn't run rough after the installation.Make sure you have all the vacume lines right. ;)

[RF Overlord]

i got a little confused because you refered to it as the spacer and the install manual calls the big metal elbow the spacer and thought "there is no way in hell thats upside down"The supplied parts list on page 7 has the pictures for the "adapter" and the "spacer" reversed. The installation drawing on page 84 is correct...

Glad it was somthing simple... :D

[MM03MOK]

Mary,
you da bomb.
Remind me to buy you dinner at mv3.
it was the the adapter plate thing.
i got a little confused because you refered to it as the spacer and the install manual calls the big metal elbow the spacer and thought "there is no way in hell thats upside down"
but its all good now.
I must give Claude credit for this tidbit. He passed it along before the Blackbird's install so we didn't have a problem.
Thanks Carfixer!! :cheer:

[BillyGman]

I must give Claude credit for this tidbit. He passed it along before the Blackbird's install so we didn't have a problem.
Thanks Carfixer!! :cheer: But I for one, commend you for bringing it up to "FatB"....... but yes, Claude (aka "CARFIXER") has been a great help to many of us here. And not to just those who have paid him for supercharger installations either. He has given me some very valuable and time saving FREE advice in the past also. :2thumbs:

[Bradley G]

Probably gonn'a be a long line, when I'm able to thank Mary:bunny2: for her help.:P

Congrats Fat Bastid!
Bradley G

[RF Overlord]

Gavin, you ought to be called the Fat BASTAGE for sneaking a Trilogy on your car and not telling us...so what number is it?

[the fat bastid]

whoops, cats outta the bag.
i've modded my car a bit with some stuff and i'm going to post a write up on it. thats when i was going to reveal it but awh well...

its kit number 76

and the write up is in the works. stay tuned!

[jgc61sr2002]

Gavin - Congrats on the install. :D

[Petrograde]

Congrats Gavin! :up:

I'm sorry but you must now relinquish the fastest "stock" Marauder title.. :P

[BillyGman]

]were you drinking at the time?.[/i]



LIKE YOU WOULDN'T BELIEVE! YEEEEEEEEEHAW!!!Well that explains it because on page 84 of the Trilogy manual, the diagram it gives you is so specific, and easy to understand, that you must be mentally impaired or wasted to get it wrong. :D Below is a pic of that page,as well as two other pages taken from the Trilogy manual that are typical, which clearly displays how easy this manual is to follow.....

anyway, what happened to your "write-up" review on your new found power bud?

[CRUZTAKER]

Gavin.....you got blown and didn't tell me....:shake:

I bet John was there. :P

[Haggis]

Gavin.....you got blown and didn't tell me....:shake:

I bet John was there. :P
Low 'blow' there Barry, but...:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

[the fat bastid]

ugh, i cant go anywhere with you guys can i?

but the review is coming 'soon'. Relearning how to drive the car at the strip is taking a bit longer then i thought so until then i dont want to post sub-optimal numbers.

[BillyGman]

ugh, i cant go anywhere with you guys can i?

but the review is coming 'soon'. Relearning how to drive the car at the strip is taking a bit longer then I thought so until then I dont want to post sub-optimal numbers.You must be using standard radial tires, right? If you are, I gotta tell you, there's no such thing as hooking up consistently with those tires no matter how much practice you get. You'll need drag radials for that.There will even be times when you won't hook up good at the track with drag radials, but you will hook good with them 7 or 8 out of 10 times as opposed to only 2 or 3 out of ten times with the factory rubber.

I wouldn't even bother taking a S/Ced Marauder to the track unless I had drag radials. Anyway, when I asked you about your "review" I wasn't talking about how you'll do at the dragstrip. I just wanted to hear your overall impression of your newly S/Ced car, and how it is for you while driving it on the street. You do drive on the street w/it, don't you? Or have you made it a trailer queen now?

[Jerry Barnes]

I want to thank everyone for helping out. Once again, all of you folks are a class act!!!!!

I am having Renata take a look at the points you mentioned about the installation manual.

Thanks

Jerry