G D tires

[Bobby Clobber]

I know , look in the archives, but I am so PO'd . Had the MM in for Oil & filter, up on the rack , my fronts are shot, both on the inside still another 8/10 k left on the tread otherwise.

Alignment must be WWWWWWWay out on both.

Question?

I ordered two fronts from Tire Rack but I want the Proper Not factory specs for alignment for the new ones

Please help. :mad2:

[STLR FN]

Here ya go:
Front camber: -.3 degrees
Front toe: zero degrees
Caster is not a angle that wears tires so have them set it to factory specs. Be sure they set the right side a little higher (about .3 degrees) than the left to keep the car from following the road crown which makes it pull to the right.
Very importatant, always ask for a copy of the before and after alignment printout.
Also, tell them you are real sensitive to having the steering wheel straight.




I know , look in the archives, but I am so PO'd . Had the MM in for Oil & filter, up on the rack , my fronts are shot, both on the inside still another 8/10 k left on the tread otherwise.

Alignment must be WWWWWWWay out on both.

Question?

I ordered two fronts from Tire Rack but I want the Proper Not factory specs for alignment for the new ones

Please help. :mad2:

[Bobby Clobber]

Here ya go:
Front camber: -.3 degrees
Front toe: zero degrees
Caster is not a angle that wears tires so have them set it to factory specs. Be sure they set the right side a little higher (about .3 degrees) than the left to keep the car from following the road crown which makes it pull to the right.
Very importatant, always ask for a copy of the before and after alignment printout.
Also, tell them you are real sensitive to having the steering wheel straight.



Thanks , sorry to be a pain, but that just p----- me off so bad , last time I checked( 3000 k ago ) every thing looked fine.

Live and learn. :burnout:

[STLR FN]

No problem that was the info given to me by ROYLPITA.
Thanks , sorry to be a pain, but that just p----- me off so bad , last time I checked( 3000 k ago ) every thing looked fine.

Live and learn. :burnout:

[RoyLPita]

No problem that was the info given to me by ROYLPITA.

I got the info from Carfixer. He's the one that came up with the specs for us.

[Fourth Horseman]

So I must have missed these discussions previously. Will the correct factory alignment always scrub the inside of the tires? I was thinking about having my alignment checked because of this, but perhaps it's in-spec.

[Rkammer]

Here's the correct specs as I copied them from the thread along with the explainations for the settings in case your front end shop wants to know why you want to differ from factory settings.


"The inside edge wear of the front tires is caused by 2 things: negative camber and negative toe (toe out). Caster is not a tire wearing angle. The outside edge wear can be caused by excessive toe in and aggressive cornering.
Factory camber spec is -.5 degrees +or- .75 degrees
Factory toe spec is -.15 degrees +or- .20 degrees
(BTW, this info came from their website which is updated periodically and may differ from previously published material, such as cd's and paper manuals)
That means your alignment could have -1.25 degrees of camber and toe out of -.35 degrees and still be in the "green". This will wipe out the inside edges in <20K miles IMO.
All of the MM's I've aligned (about 10) had at least -1.0 degrees of camber and always toe out of -.10 degrees or more from the factory. That's why almost all MM's you see have excessive inside edge tire wear.
For best tire wear, here is what I use on all MM alignments:
Camber: 0 to -.3 degrees.*
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5-6.5 degrees positive with .3 degree lead on the right side.
*Camber can affect cornering feel. The more negative camber you have, the better it will handle corners. Most drivers will never feel the difference, especially on the street."