Cooling mod

[03MERCMARAUDER]

I know this is popular with the 03-04 Cobra guys. Has anyone here done it? I know it is listed on reinharts site. I ask cause here in the next couple weeks the tranny will be out of my car for a rebuild and I was curious if it would be easier to get this done while the tranny is out of the way?

Joe

[SergntMac]

Yes, it will be easier with the tranny out of the way.

[Joe Walsh]

Joe, I added my rear cylinder head cooling mod while my engine was out of the car.
It would be almost impossible to do the mod without removing the transmission or the entire engine.

[cyclone03]

Joe, I added my rear cylinder head cooling mod while my engine was out of the car.
It would be almost impossible to do the mod without removing the transmission or the entire engine.


Almost is the key word above.
I did it,even with Kooks headers installed.

[Tallboy]

This is a "feel better" mod. Everyone has their own opinions, but, if it makes you "feel better", do it.

I have this mod installed on my car, and recommend it. A quick call to DR and you're done. I had mine installed BEFORE I got my Trilogy. I figure a supercharged car in Florida needs all the cooling help it can get.:cool:

I have no quantative proof that it helps, or doesn't. But, I "feel better" with it there.

[merc6]

seeing the needle sits a hare above the 20 mph mark, where does it sit with the cooling mod? Are you also runing somoens tune that turns cooling fans on or swap out t-stats prir to or same time as the mod? Just trying to get a feel for if I should save up for it later.

[03MERCMARAUDER]

This is a "feel better" mod. Everyone has their own opinions, but, if it makes you "feel better", do it.

I have this mod installed on my car, and recommend it. A quick call to DR and you're done. I had mine installed BEFORE I got my Trilogy. I figure a supercharged car in Florida needs all the cooling help it can get.:cool:

I have no quantative proof that it helps, or doesn't. But, I "feel better" with it there.

Like I said I know alot of cobra guys do it and they swear it helps save the cylinder head from long term damage associated with heat. This mod may not be needed for a N/A car but those with a blower weather it be a roots or centi it is something to think about. I wascurious who on here had it and how was install difficulty. i figured that since the tranny will be out of the car anyway might bea good time to throw it on there since I plan on going with a blower this year.

Joe

[03MERCMARAUDER]

Joe, I added my rear cylinder head cooling mod while my engine was out of the car.
It would be almost impossible to do the mod without removing the transmission or the entire engine.

Hey Joe how much was involved on the install??

Joe

[SergntMac]

Though it's called a "cooling" mod, it does not directly affect engine operating temps. Directly is a key word here.

The purpose of the mod is to complete the flow of coolant through the head, to prevent coolant from "cooking" in areas above cylinders 3, 4, 7, and 8. Thus, full circulation throughout the entire cooling system, which tends to lower "normal" operating temps. Here's some proof?

My KB #1x has the cooling mod and 180 stat. No matter what speed I cruise at, my engine temps are 183-185, and very consistent. (BTW, this will give me a steady "18 MPH" temp reading on the dash gauge).

My #3 MM is stock. OEM stat and no cooling mod. At 65-70 MPH, my engine temps are a steady 190-193 degrees. Pick up to 70-75 MPH, the temps rise to 197 to 200. 80 MPH and faster delivers 210 degrees and up.

When coolant doesn't circulate, it cannot shed it's heat and after a certain point, the head is cooling the coolant. The faster I drive, the more I cook the coolant in specific areas of the head, and when I slow down, the engine naturally cools down, allowing the coolant to shed heat.

This cooling mod maximizes the opportinity for the coolant to flow and shed it's heat in a normal fashion. This underwrites longer coolant life and insures that coolant won't bake into crusty deposits that come to block cooling system arteries. The result is a cooler runing engine, and more efficient combustion burn.

This is another Jerry Wroblewski mod, in other forms of the 4V DOHC engine, this mod was factory installed.

[DEFYANT]

Though it's called a "cooling" mod, it does not directly affect engine operating temps. Directly is a key word here.

The purpose of the mod is to complete the flow of coolant through the head, to prevent coolant from "cooking" in areas above cylinders 3, 4, 7, and 8. Thus, full circulation throughout the entire cooling system, which tends to lower "normal" operating temps. Here's some proof?

My KB #1x has the cooling mod and 180 stat. No matter what speed I cruise at, my engine temps are 183-185, and very consistent. (BTW, this will give me a steady "18 MPH" temp reading on the dash gauge).

My #3 MM is stock. OEM stat and no cooling mod. At 65-70 MPH, my engine temps are a steady 190-193 degrees. Pick up to 70-75 MPH, the temps rise to 197 to 200. 80 MPH and faster delivers 210 degrees and up.

When coolant doesn't circulate, it cannot shed it's heat and after a certain point, the head is cooling the coolant. The faster I drive, the more I cook the coolant in specific areas of the head, and when I slow down, the engine naturally cools down, allowing the coolant to shed heat.

This cooling mod maximizes the opportinity for the coolant to flow and shed it's heat in a normal fashion. This underwrites longer coolant life and insures that coolant won't bake into crusty deposits that come to block cooling system arteries. The result is a cooler runing engine, and more efficient combustion burn.

This is another Jerry Wroblewski mod, in other forms of the 4V DOHC engine, this mod was factory installed.

Why was this not included on the Marauder? Cost savings? :shake:

[Tallboy]

Like I said I know alot of cobra guys do it and they swear it helps save the cylinder head from long term damage associated with heat. This mod may not be needed for a N/A car but those with a blower weather it be a roots or centi it is something to think about. I wascurious who on here had it and how was install difficulty. i figured that since the tranny will be out of the car anyway might bea good time to throw it on there since I plan on going with a blower this year.

Joe

Mac pretty much hit the nail on the head in post #9. I've seen way too many 4V heads on Carfixer's bench with burnt valves on #7 and #8. Carfixer installed this on my car in September of '04. Never any problems, leaks, or cooling issues. As I said earlier, this is one mod I would do regardless.

One phone call to Dennis, and you're done. Too easy not to do.:chat:

[MikesMerc]

Its a "feel better" mod IMO, but can't hurt to do it. However, even installed correctly, the mod doesn't cure Ford's design issue with poorly circulating coolant in the heads....a "flaw" which has been around since '96 that Ford has not cured....for some reason (hmmmmm).

Anyway, if you search around enough, you'll find that driving style influences the deterioration (or lack of) of cylinders 7 & 8 more than the cooling mod. "Hot laps" at the dragstrip and road racing with constant high rpms matter more. I've seen cooling modded motors with scorched 7 & 8, and seen perfectly fine 7 & 8 holes and valves from non modded cars.

I'm sure more miles would have mattered, but my 7 & 8 looked absolutely perfect when I tore my motor down after 13,000 miles of heavy supercharged use. 7 & 8 didn't look one iota different than any other of the cylinders or valves. Although I'm sure more miles magnifies problems, I was surprised to see absolutely no difference at all as hard as I beat the car.

The jury is out this one. For every "yep, you really should do it" there is a "don't bother" vote out there in 4v modular land.

That said, if it makes you feel better, mod away. There is one thing for certain, it can only help.

[sweetair]

OK. So it's a feel better mod. I'm thinking of feeling better. What's it going to take?? Call Dennis and ask for what? Since I am already s/chged and the tranny is not being removed any time soon, what are my chances for a relatively easy install??

[SergntMac]

Zack installs this mod from up top, takes about an hour. I've watched him and I don't know how he does it, but it gets done easy enough.

If you have any plans ahead to remove the tranny for any reason, this would be a good time to add the cooling mod. However, removing the tranny just for this mod is not required.

Are not all mods "feel good" things? Peace of mind is closer to the mark, still, it is a functional mod with a solid end result. You're not wasting your time, or money here. Just remember to bleed excess air from the cooling system after the install.

[Warpath]

The #7 and #8 cylinders on Cobras run leanest. That's why those cylinders aways fall apart first. Additional cooling will not prevent detonation (well in some cases it can I guess). The only theory I read is that the intake on Cobras gives these cylinders a straight shot of incomming air. The air has to bend to get to the other cylinders and, therefore, VE isn't as good. If that theory is true, it may mean that #7 and #8 cylinders are not the leanest on MMs.

[SergntMac]

The way I learned it, 7 and 8 are indeed top pics for failure, and run the leanest first. They are the last to be fed in the fuel chain, and can be problematic when a custom tune is on the edge. Bringing down the coolant temp, even just a few degrees, helps control the problem, IMHO. Adds a little elbow room for that less than ideal octane.

[rayjay]

The way I learned it, 7 and 8 are indeed top pics for failure, and run the leanest first. They are the last to be fed in the fuel chain, and can be problematic when a custom tune is on the edge. Bringing down the coolant temp, even just a few degrees, helps control the problem, IMHO. Adds a little elbow room for that less than ideal octane.

If I'm following your posts correctly here Mac, using a 180 degree stat would be the 1st step to better cooling of the left head?