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View Full Version : "Give me a brake, Dennis!"



SergntMac
03-31-2006, 03:34 PM
Yep. That's what I said when I jumped on DR's EBC brake group buy.

My rotors and pads arrived rather early because I twisted DR's arm to send me the kit he used to advertise the GB. But, I had to wait on the SS lines from KVR anyway, and they arrived this morning. While waiting, everything else I planned was lined up for the install.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=2437&c=3&userid=392

Fresh Wilwood 570 high temp brake fluid, fresh calipers front and rear, EBC rotors and pads, and KVR stainless steel brake lines. The calipers are OEM Marauder casting, polished smooth and ceramic coated. The pads were originally painted yellow, but I had to have them red. Duplicolor brake paint kit did the trick, but I see a need for some touch up after the install.

Old rear brakes:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=2438&c=3&userid=392

New rear brakes:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=2440&c=3&userid=392

Old front brakes:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=2439&c=3&userid=392

New front brakes:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=2441&c=3&userid=392

The EBC rotors come powdercoated black, which wears away instantly on first use, leaving the slots and dimples black against a shiney contact surface. I love the cross-drilled look, but I do not support cross-drilling as a performance mod. Now I have the best of both, and the touch of red seems just right. Painted center caps courtesy of Dan (Mercman) and Cheri (Merclady I suppose?). Thank you both!

Front, after cleaning the powdercoating:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=2442&c=3&userid=392

Rear, after cleaning the powdercoating:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=2443&c=3&userid=392

Okay, enough of the bling crap, what about performance?

Well, nothing is fully bedded yet. I've only been around the block a few times, however, I am very impressed with this performance upgrade. The brakes are solid and true, and the pedal has a comforting strength to it. Note the swept area of the rotors are "full contact" areas, nothing goes to waste.

I was fooled at first. With the ignition off, my pedal was as hard as a rock. But once I started the car and added some vacume to the system, I felt a nice comfy pedal controlling a lot of stopping power. This kit will be a big payoff in the "rush hour crawl" department, because my "heel and toe" will get a big rest.

Overall, I'm quite pleased. I got some bling and some performance, and including the professional install, I got all of it under 900 bucks. Got to love that. You Windy City folks can get a taste of this kit at our next Chicken Run.

"Give me a brake, Dennis" paid off. Thank you Mr. Reinhart.

MM2004
03-31-2006, 03:59 PM
Mac,

Share your thoughts once they are broken in please?

Mike.

fastblackmerc
03-31-2006, 04:05 PM
Looks good. Can't wait to get mine.

MM03MOK
03-31-2006, 04:33 PM
#3's looking mighty nice, Mac! Cheri's handiwork looks great too!

SergntMac
03-31-2006, 04:38 PM
Share your thoughts once they are broken in please? That I will, my friend. A large and well known Interstate, I-90/94, (aka the "Dan Ryan") will be closing for repairs April 1st. It will stay closed for two years, and I will be driving innercity arterial main streets for the duration. This will be extra hard on brakes, and I'll be watching things closely. Expect a full report soon, maybe withing a week?

Marauderman
03-31-2006, 04:58 PM
Looks good. Can't wait to get mine.
..........and I thought you liked mine......especially when you had to slow down after playing with a spirited run the last time....:lol:.....enjoy yours anyway.....

gonzo50
03-31-2006, 07:37 PM
Fresh Wilwood 570 high temp brake fluid, fresh calipers front and rear, EBC rotors and pads, and KVR stainless steel brake lines. The calipers are OEM Marauder casting, polished smooth and ceramic coated. The pads were originally painted yellow, but I had to have them red. Duplicolor brake paint kit did the trick, but I see a need for some touch up after the install.

Well, nothing is fully bedded yet. I've only been around the block a few times, however, I am very impressed with this performance upgrade. The brakes are solid and true, and the pedal has a comforting strength to it. Note the swept area of the rotors are "full contact" areas, nothing goes to waste.

Overall, I'm quite pleased. I got some bling and some performance, and including the professional install, I got all of it under 900 bucks. Got to love that.

"Give me a brake, Dennis" paid off. Thank you Mr. Reinhart.
Is the Wilwood 570 high temp brake fluid required with this application for the total package in brake performance or is the stock brake fluid suffice ???

The pads that came with my kit are painted BLACK, where did the yellow come from ???

Are you following the bedding procedures that come with the kit for the pads and the rotors ???

Who did your "Professional Install", was it the Dealership or a good friend...??? Thanks Mac.:2thumbs:

KillJoy
03-31-2006, 07:47 PM
Nice job Mac! That Powder Coating looks really nice.

If one were to have that done, what should they expect to pay (for the Powder Coating, that is)?

KillJoy

Shora
03-31-2006, 08:26 PM
End result looks great. I am afraid to even look at my brakes now.

jawz101
03-31-2006, 09:34 PM
those things look great. I'm jealous

Bradley G
03-31-2006, 09:46 PM
Those look nice Mac!
I like the matching red wheel caps/painted linings!

mailman
03-31-2006, 09:53 PM
Look great Mac! Love the touch of red.

Smokie
04-01-2006, 05:55 AM
Thanks Mac for documenting and sharing like you always have, your brakes look great!!! As you get some wheel time with your new setup I eagerly anticipate your review.

Thank you for taking the time, Javier.

SergntMac
04-01-2006, 06:54 AM
Is the Wilwood 570 high temp brake fluid required with this application for the total package in brake performance or is the stock brake fluid suffice ? No, it's not part of the GB, and I am sure the OEM is sufficient for daily driving. Due to mileage, I chose to flush the brake system and selected the Wilwood 570 as the replacement, as I have for the KB#1x car.

The pads that came with my kit are painted BLACK, where did the yellow come from ? From EBC via DR. Dennis said he sprayed them black for the GB advertising.
Who did your "Professional Install", was it the Dealership or a good friend? Most of the time those folks are one in the same, but this project went to the brake monkies.

rayjay
04-01-2006, 07:33 PM
Very nice. My brakes still look like new at 24,500, but those SS lines are calling me :D

GreekGod
04-03-2006, 04:03 PM
Thanks for the photo series. How was the system bled? I gravity bled a Gran Marquis job I did last fall (has ABS) and it worked very well. My Ford dealer said they gravity bleed regularly and recommend the same.

I'm old-school and thought it was a two man job and needed foot pedal pressure for best effect but the ease of gravity bleed changed my mind. I also read NASCAR shops tend to gravity bleed.

warren
04-05-2006, 04:02 PM
Carlos,

I did some homework on these.
You asked about the yellow pads.
Some of the origional run was made in their lab.
and had a yellow edge on the black pad and some
yellow paint on the backing plate.
The production run ones I belive are black.
They were designed for hi-pursuit and performance.
The pad is very special and the rotor as well.

Warren

Hotrauder
04-11-2006, 09:13 AM
Mac, once again you are out and down the trail.:bows: The only thing that Dan Rather ever said that made much sense to me was, "only the lead dog gets a change of scenery." thanks for showing us a new look. I love it and want to copy. Hope that is ok. Thanks, Mac. Dennis:beer:

alarmguy
04-11-2006, 01:58 PM
I'm jealous, hopefully mine will get here before the weekend.

SergntMac
04-11-2006, 03:54 PM
How was the system bled? I gravity bled a Gran Marquis job I did last fall (has ABS) and it worked very well. My Ford dealer said they gravity bleed regularly and recommend the same. I don't recognize what you call a "gravity" bleed of a brake system, what it consists of in equipment, or, requires in use. What I can explain, is a "flushing" proceedure, which may be the same process.

My fresh brake fluid (2 pints) was poured into a canister that was strapped to the Master cylinder. Then a second tank with a pump on it was attached to the bleeder valve at each wheel and the valves were opened. Using compressed air, this machine sucked out all the old brake fluid in the system, and once it sucked air, a valve on the master cylinder canister opened and the fresh fluid was sucked through the lines. Once the intermediate air bubble cleared the bleed valve, and fresh fluid could be seen in the lines, the bleeder valves were closed, and the master cylinder topped off. Done, and a one-man job. Interesting to watch...

GreekGod
04-11-2006, 04:39 PM
Thanks, Mac! I think that is called a power flush. That is what (I thought) became an industry standard years ago., and asked my dealer about. He told me to just open the bleeders and keep the reservoir full and gravity bleed the system. I had read and been told NASCAR gravity bleeds their racecars, which of course don't have ABS (?).

BMW recommends bleeding every 2 years. My dealer said Ford has no recommendation. Perhaps a Ford tech can give his opinion.


I don't recognize what you call a "gravity" bleed of a brake system, what it consists of in equipment, or, requires in use. What I can explain, is a "flushing" proceedure, which may be the same process.

My fresh brake fluid (2 pints) was poured into a canister that was strapped to the Master cylinder. Then a second tank with a pump on it was attached to the bleeder valve at each wheel and the valves were opened. Using compressed air, this machine sucked out all the old brake fluid in the system, and once it sucked air, a valve on the master cylinder canister opened and the fresh fluid was sucked through the lines. Once the intermediate air bubble cleared the bleed valve, and fresh fluid could be seen in the lines, the bleeder valves were closed, and the master cylinder topped off. Done, and a one-man job. Interesting to watch...

gonzo50
04-12-2006, 08:58 AM
Due to mileage, I chose to flush the brake system...........but this project went to the brake monkies.


.........My fresh brake fluid (2 pints) was poured into a canister that was strapped to the Master cylinder. Then a second tank with a pump on it was attached to the bleeder valve at each wheel and the valves were opened. Using compressed air, this machine sucked out all the old brake fluid in the system, and once it sucked air, a valve on the master cylinder canister opened and the fresh fluid was sucked through the lines. Once the intermediate air bubble cleared the bleed valve, and fresh fluid could be seen in the lines, the bleeder valves were closed, and the master cylinder topped off. Done, and a one-man job. Interesting to watch...
What you refer to as "brake monkies", was that at a brake specialty shop like Meineke or Midas ???

SergntMac
04-12-2006, 09:38 AM
What you refer to as "brake monkies", was that at a brake specialty shop like Meineke or Midas ??? Nope...General auto repair and very good at brake work. Neighborhood/family business, but if you went to Midas or Meineke, I'm sure they would do a good job too. This mod is no more complicated that your average brake job.

gonzo50
04-15-2006, 03:55 PM
Nope...General auto repair and very good at brake work. Neighborhood/family business, but if you went to Midas or Meineke, I'm sure they would do a good job too. This mod is no more complicated that your average brake job.
I was quoted from a brake specialty shop $302.00 for them to do the job, rotors, pads, and SS brake lines with flush........

IMHO, this is way to high for the job they have to do, what do you think ???:confused:

GreekGod
04-15-2006, 04:31 PM
Sounds like about $300/hour! Do they include party type girls in the back room while you wait?

Todd TCE
04-16-2006, 05:15 PM
He told me to just open the bleeders and keep the reservoir full and gravity bleed the system. I had read and been told NASCAR gravity bleeds their racecars, which of course don't have ABS (?).

I've been an advocate of this forever. Works fine. Today's do it yourselfers seem to feel the need to pound away on the pedal....People want to make bleeding a far more complicted process than it really is.

As long as the fluid is flowing 'out' nothing is flowing 'in'. And nearly all calipers today have the bleeder on the top to self purge the bore.

Dennis Reinhart
04-25-2006, 11:34 AM
Last week we installed a EBC kit here, I drove the car prior to the install, and I drove it afterwords and the difference is amazing the the brakes will throww you through the window there that firm and have no pedal fade at all:beer:

fastblackmerc
04-25-2006, 11:40 AM
He told me to just open the bleeders and keep the reservoir full and gravity bleed the system. I had read and been told NASCAR gravity bleeds their racecars, which of course don't have ABS (?).

I've been an advocate of this forever. Works fine. Today's do it yourselfers seem to feel the need to pound away on the pedal....People want to make bleeding a far more complicted process than it really is.

As long as the fluid is flowing 'out' nothing is flowing 'in'. And nearly all calipers today have the bleeder on the top to self purge the bore.
I'd assume that you could change all the fluid with gravity bleeding.

Dennis Reinhart
04-25-2006, 11:43 AM
I'd assume that you could change all the fluid with gravity bleeding.


we actually have a vacum bleeder and it makes it a lot easier and faster

gonzo50
04-25-2006, 02:53 PM
Last week we installed a EBC kit here, I drove the car prior to the install, and I drove it afterwords and the difference is amazing the the brakes will throww you through the window there that firm and have no pedal fade at all:beer:
How long would it take to install the EBC kit with the SS-lines on a Marauder ?
I work night shifts, and it's impossible for me to be at your shop early in the mornings, would like to know in case I need to come down there for the install. Thanks.:rasta:

Dennis Reinhart
04-25-2006, 07:11 PM
How long would it take to install the EBC kit with the SS-lines on a Marauder ?
I work night shifts, and it's impossible for me to be at your shop early in the mornings, would like to know in case I need to come down there for the install. Thanks.:rasta:


About two hours, the hardest thing is to get the rear rotors off

drgnrdr33
04-29-2006, 09:32 AM
New front brakes:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=2441&c=3&userid=392

Hey SergntMac & Dennis,

Have you noticed the front lines rubbing the tires when the front wheels are turned to either the right or left sides? I ask because a local shop made some braided lines for a few of us. They worked OK until we noticed that when the front left wheel was turned most of the way to the left the line would rub on the edge of the tire. Same thing happened on the right side when the wheel was turned to the right. The line length was not too long because the slack that rubbed when turned to one extreme was needed to reach the caliper when turned the opposite direction.

Do the front KVR lines have a similar geometry as the front OEM (which dont rub)? If not, do they rub the tires?

SergntMac
04-29-2006, 09:39 AM
No rubbing brake lines noted here.

GreekGod
04-29-2006, 12:00 PM
"I ask because a local shop made some braided lines for a few of us"

I'm surprised you could find someone to make you non-DOT approved lines. Selling material to make the lines for off-road use and owner installation is fine but I cannot get my local shop to make me a line unless I tell him it is for a hydraulic clutch. Reinhart's KVR lines seem to be "Goodridge" brand made in England and DOT approved.

Dennis Reinhart
04-30-2006, 10:01 AM
Hey SergntMac & Dennis,

Have you noticed the front lines rubbing the tires when the front wheels are turned to either the right or left sides? I ask because a local shop made some braided lines for a few of us. They worked OK until we noticed that when the front left wheel was turned most of the way to the left the line would rub on the edge of the tire. Same thing happened on the right side when the wheel was turned to the right. The line length was not too long because the slack that rubbed when turned to one extreme was needed to reach the caliper when turned the opposite direction.

Do the front KVR lines have a similar geometry as the front OEM (which dont rub)? If not, do they rub the tires?

When I installed the kit here this did happen because the banjo fitting that goes to the caliper was turned in ward instead of out ward, check to see that your fittings are turned with the slight bend in the fitting is faced out ward not inward.

drgnrdr33
05-01-2006, 07:47 AM
"I ask because a local shop made some braided lines for a few of us"

I'm surprised you could find someone to make you non-DOT approved lines. Selling material to make the lines for off-road use and owner installation is fine but I cannot get my local shop to make me a line unless I tell him it is for a hydraulic clutch. Reinhart's KVR lines seem to be "Goodridge" brand made in England and DOT approved.

The lines are DOT approved with label, etc. I assume DOT approval would imply no tire rubbing.

drgnrdr33
05-01-2006, 07:58 AM
When I installed the kit here this did happen because the banjo fitting that goes to the caliper was turned in ward instead of out ward, check to see that your fittings are turned with the slight bend in the fitting is faced out ward not inward.

On the hoses we had made, the slight bend by the banjo fitting was so short that the only way they could be installed was outward. When the knuckle is turned to one extreme the hose bends in a U shape outward away from the center of the wheel. The hose is long enough that it extends past the tire and gets rubbed by the sidewall.

It sounds like the KVR hoses do not have the bent hardline at the banjo fitting like the OEM hoses do, correct? The bent hardline is perfect for keeping the hose away from the tire.

We looked at various installation possibilities but nothing obvious appeared that would eliminate the rubbing when the steering knuckle was rotated most of the way.

SergntMac
05-01-2006, 09:19 AM
Maybe your lines are too long? The excess has to go somewhere in a turn.

drgnrdr33
05-01-2006, 09:27 AM
Maybe your lines are too long? The excess has to go somewhere in a turn.

We checked that too. The lines were just the right length for a turn in the opposite direction. The real problem is the excess gets bent in the wrong direction: out from the center and towards the rear. The OEM lines send the excess out from the center but upwards into the space by the spring and upper control arm.

Brutus
05-06-2006, 09:14 AM
Mac,

Share your thoughts once they are broken in please?

Mike.

Any updates yet??