View Full Version : Adhesive remover for wheels
FlyinMerc
04-25-2006, 09:38 AM
Anybody know a good way to remove the adhesive from old stick on wheel weights without damaging the clear coat?
Thanks.
magindat
04-25-2006, 09:40 AM
Denatured alcohol.
fastblackmerc
04-25-2006, 09:54 AM
Fine compound, polish, Goo Gone.
magindat
04-25-2006, 09:57 AM
Fine compound will remove the clearcoat and expose the aluminum.
blackf0rk
04-25-2006, 10:04 AM
Fine compound will remove the clearcoat and expose the aluminum.
Not true. But you shouldn't have to use compound to remove the adhesive. Also, there isn't any clear coat on the inside of the rim where the weights are.
Anyways...
1. Let the goo gone sit on the weight area for 15minutes; rub it around with your finger.
2. Gently pry at the weights, letting the goo gone work its way underneith the weights
3. When the weights are off, rub goo gone (with your finger) over the stuck on adhesive area. You will see the adhesive emuslify.
4. Use a toothbrush to wipe away the goo along with a microfiber towel.
Keep repeating steps 3 and 4 until the goo is gone. OPTIONAL: Use super fine steel wool (I do it on my rims) to remove the rest of the impuritys. In fact, if your rim is completely off - rub the entire rim (along with the ribbed "grain" of the wheel) and remove any other stuck on gunk. Make sure to keep the steel wool on the INSIDE of the rim and not on the parts that face out - the shiny side ;)
shakes_26
04-25-2006, 10:14 AM
WD40, its all you need, well maybe a greenie pad, but thats it.
blackf0rk
04-25-2006, 10:20 AM
Yup - WD40 will work for you too :) Especially if you don't have goo gone :D
FlyinMerc
04-25-2006, 11:30 AM
O.K.,
I have the Goo Gone but didn't know if it was too strong.
I tried Bug and Tar Remover but that only made it turn black.
fastblackmerc
04-25-2006, 11:44 AM
Forgot about WD40....
I always use ScotchBrite pads to clean the inside of the wheels when I take them off.
MENINBLK
04-25-2006, 11:52 AM
...there isn't any clear coat on the inside of the rim where the weights are.
This is not true either.
The entire wheel is covered in clear coat to keep the aluminum finish preserved
and to keep the weather and road elements from attacking the aluminum.
I would only use WAX to remove any adhesive.
MENINBLK
04-25-2006, 11:53 AM
Forgot about WD40....
I always use ScotchBrite pads to clean the inside of the wheels when I take them off.
You must really want to ruin your wheels.
fastblackmerc
04-25-2006, 12:02 PM
You must really want to ruin your wheels.
They look just as good as when I bought the car new from the dealer......
Rider90
04-25-2006, 12:08 PM
This is not true either.
The entire wheel is covered in clear coat to keep the aluminum finish preserved
and to keep the weather and road elements from attacking the aluminum.
I would only use WAX to remove any adhesive.
This is an excellent idea! Use wax to protect it from all the elements.
Dragcity
04-25-2006, 12:12 PM
Baby Oil, you know Johnson's & Johnson's
If it's really stubborn, a bit of mineral spirits. And if you are really impatient, fast evaporating laquer thinner. Watch out with the laquer thinner though. Too much, too long and by by clearcoat...
Sometimes just your thumb will work, but it takes a while. Not your nail, just the pad of the thumb.... That's for those that want something to do while they watch their grass grow, or paint to dry....
KillJoy
04-25-2006, 12:12 PM
I am also fond of the WD-40 Method.
KillJoy
Bradley G
04-25-2006, 04:16 PM
PB Blaster works well too!
STLR FN
04-25-2006, 04:31 PM
I heard elbow grease is the ****..... :lol:
MarauderBoy
04-27-2006, 07:52 PM
3M adhesive remover works great and does not harm clear coat. Get it at auto paint stores
Joe Walsh
04-27-2006, 07:59 PM
O.K.,
I have the Goo Gone but didn't know if it was too strong.
I tried Bug and Tar Remover but that only made it turn black.
I've always had good luck with Bug & Tar remover + a little elbow grease....
WD40 works really well also....
magindat
04-28-2006, 05:58 AM
Baby Oil, you know Johnson's & Johnson's
If it's really stubborn, a bit of mineral spirits. And if you are really impatient, fast evaporating laquer thinner. Watch out with the laquer thinner though. Too much, too long and by by clearcoat...
Sometimes just your thumb will work, but it takes a while. Not your nail, just the pad of the thumb.... That's for those that want something to do while they watch their grass grow, or paint to dry....
NEVER NEVER NEVER get near ANYTHING on your car with lacquer thinner. IT dissolves EVERYTHING!!!!
Use LT only if you are very brave and very careful.
Dragcity
04-28-2006, 07:57 AM
NEVER NEVER NEVER get near ANYTHING on your car with lacquer thinner. IT dissolves EVERYTHING!!!!
Use LT only if you are very brave and very careful.
Ask some of the detail/prep guys at dealerships what they use on MOST of the car when preping for delivery. Yes you have to be careful, but it works well and is safer than you think. Yeah, if you soak a rag and throw it on the hood, you got problems. But a little fast evap on a cloth and wipe off glue, no prob.
Just offering alternatives that I have used in the past and have had success with. Your results may vary....
David Morton
04-28-2006, 10:50 AM
Vegetable oil is good too. Anything oily and not caustic that lets you rub off the goo and keep it from moving to another place on the rim.
magindat
04-28-2006, 11:05 AM
Ask some of the detail/prep guys at dealerships what they use on MOST of the car when preping for delivery. Yes you have to be careful, but it works well and is safer than you think. Yeah, if you soak a rag and throw it on the hood, you got problems. But a little fast evap on a cloth and wipe off glue, no prob.
Just offering alternatives that I have used in the past and have had success with. Your results may vary....
Oh yeah, for sure. I get in 5 gallon drums. For the inexperienced (even me), it's easy to lose track of a stray drop on plastic trim. Also easy to forget whats on the rag and wipe textured trim and it instantly becomes SMOOTH trim!
All the same Denatured alcohol will remove glue and ink without the dangers of melting plastic, softening clearcoat, ruining leather, etc. Also fast evap like LT. It's a more specific solvent than LT. Denat is also solved in water where LT is not.
If you park so the gunked up spot is on the bottom, you can actually puddle denat until the junk softens. You can flick off the foam scabs with a tooth brush and finish with a terry rag (terry roughness cleans the grooves) soaked in denat.
FlyinMerc
04-28-2006, 12:11 PM
Thanks for all the ideas guys.
I will work on the wheels this weekend and let you all know how I made out.
blackf0rk
04-28-2006, 01:49 PM
This is not true either.
The entire wheel is covered in clear coat to keep the aluminum finish preserved
and to keep the weather and road elements from attacking the aluminum.
I would only use WAX to remove any adhesive.
I don't know what you're smokin'...:shake: There is no clear on the INSIDE of the wheels. :depress:
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