upgrades are done

[greggtsr]

just got stage 1 completed,4.30's,underdrive pulleys,chip,t-stat,and denso's.the car is totaly different.It's unreal now from 1500 rpm all the way up to 5500 rpm,takes off like a rocket.I love it !!!!
Now i'm allready kinda wonderin what to do next.The car is awsome, but not right off idle.What's next?
thanks

[TAF]

Congrats...on taking delivery all over again...

It IS better the second time...isn't it?:cool:

[greggtsr]

Oh Yeah,its like a whole new car

[Marauderman]

just give me a car

[martyo]

Do the torque converter and drive shaft next.

[rurumon]

Is the driveshaft really that effective? I mean, I cant imagine it has enough rotating mass to account for any loss in horsies.

[martyo]

Not from "added power" standpoint, but it can just handle the "heat" of all the mods better than the stock shaft so it vibrates less. Someone recently posted a pic of their leaking tail shaft to show just what a vibrating shaft can do to your car.

[Menace]

Next-Supercharger

[SergntMac]

Originally posted by martyo
Not from "added power" standpoint, but it can just handle the "heat" of all the mods better than the stock shaft so it vibrates less. Someone recently posted a pic of their leaking tail shaft to show just what a vibrating shaft can do to your car.

Ditto that...Good advice, Marty.

I also suggest that your next mod to consider should be;

1) Stallion Torque converter. It's a 9.5 inch TC, weighs about a third of the 11.0 inch OEM design, and recovers more than half of the motor's power to the wheels routinely lost in the power train itself. If you agree that under drive pulleys sap available power, well, so does the torque converter, it's that simple. You won't see a major difference in dyno numbers on this alone, but your "seat-of-the-pants" technician will know. It's about as expensive at your present mods put together, but the install labor is a routine flat rate proceedure.

2) The DynaTech drive shaft is, IMHO, a necessary mod at this point. And this is coming from the guy who argued against it a long time ago. My point back then, was not to mess with the OEM shaft unless there was a problem to correct. Vibrations at high speed (120MPH in 3rd gear, OD off, is 6000 drive shaft RPMs) were destroying other components, as MartyO points out. But, IMHO, only in certain cars and under certain conditions, and the "across the board" recommendation at that time to replace the OEM shaft was not necessary if not correcting a vibration problem already discovered. Truthfully, only a few here reported OEM shaft vibration, and mostly after upgrading to 4:10s, which also disturbed the production-line power train balance. Advice to "buy one, you need it," was not justified at that time, but we're into a new era of power producing bolt-ons today.

Adding more power via chip, Denso plugs, etc., and delivering more of that power through the drive train to your 4:30s, via the Stallion TC, as well as the 4:30s fighting back against a hard launch of a two ton automobile, is a worry to me. IMHO, a driveshaft upgrade is now a wise choice, if you have these other mods in place. The DynaTech shaft designed by Reinhart for the MM is a kit, a new flange, new yoke and fat beefy Dana U-joints, all matched and tested as a unit through RPMs your 281 CID will not see (more than once anyway).

IMHO, the OEM shaft isn't up to the new power game, and the FMC CV/PI option is not any better because it's not tested and balanced with matched parts as a kit. Actually, I believe it's the same shaft we get OEM, but I don't want to start that old argument again. I think we all see it differently now anyway. Again, pricey as a stand alone mod, with no real performamce improvement one can point too on a dyno chart, but good insurance that you'll not suffer from a weak link lurking in the shadows and waiting to pounce.

3) With or without the TC/drive shaft upgrades, get a power tune as performed by www.FordChip.com Many here, myself included, have done this as a finishing touch to the mods settled on as beneficial to the MM. Bolting on parts is fun and productive, fine tuning them only improves the experience, and you walk away with some hard performance numbers on your particular MM. Bang for buck, this is the best mod any MM owner can buy, bone stock included. Think about it, read other posts here from other members who have done it. You'll probably come back here and complain that you have to learn how to drive your MM all over again. Go ahead, whine, we love it.

[Reaper948]

Originally posted by SergntMac
Ditto that...Good advice, Marty.

I also suggest that your next mod to consider should be;

1) Stallion Torque converter. It's a 9.5 inch TC, weighs about a third of the 11.0 inch OEM design, and recovers more than half of the motor's power to the wheels routinely lost in the power train itself. If you agree that under drive pulleys sap available power, well, so does the torque converter, it's that simple. You won't see a major difference in dyno numbers on this alone, but your "seat-of-the-pants" technician will know. It's about as expensive at your present mods put together, but the install labor is a routine flat rate proceedure.

2) The DynaTech drive shaft is, IMHO, a necessary mod at this point. And this is coming from the guy who argued against it a long time ago. My point back then, was not to mess with the OEM shaft unless there was a problem to correct. Vibrations at high speed (120MPH in 3rd gear, OD off, is 6000 drive shaft RPMs) were destroying other components, as MartyO points out. But, IMHO, only in certain cars and under certain conditions, and the "across the board" recommendation at that time to replace the OEM shaft was not necessary if not correcting a vibration problem already discovered. Truthfully, only a few here reported OEM shaft vibration, and mostly after upgrading to 4:10s, which also disturbed the production-line power train balance. Advice to "buy one, you need it," was not justified at that time, but we're into a new era of power producing bolt-ons today.

Adding more power via chip, Denso plugs, etc., and delivering more of that power through the drive train to your 4:30s, via the Stallion TC, as well as the 4:30s fighting back against a hard launch of a two ton automobile, is a worry to me. IMHO, a driveshaft upgrade is now a wise choice, if you have these other mods in place. The DynaTech shaft designed by Reinhart for the MM is a kit, a new flange, new yoke and fat beefy Dana U-joints, all matched and tested as a unit through RPMs your 281 CID will not see (more than once anyway).

IMHO, the OEM shaft isn't up to the new power game, and the FMC CV/PI option is not any better because it's not tested and balanced with matched parts as a kit. Actually, I believe it's the same shaft we get OEM, but I don't want to start that old argument again. I think we all see it differently now anyway. Again, pricey as a stand alone mod, with no real performamce improvement one can point too on a dyno chart, but good insurance that you'll not suffer from a weak link lurking in the shadows and waiting to pounce.

3) With or without the TC/drive shaft upgrades, get a power tune as performed by www.FordChip.com Many here, myself included, have done this as a finishing touch to the mods settled on as beneficial to the MM. Bolting on parts is fun and productive, fine tuning them only improves the experience, and you walk away with some hard performance numbers on your particular MM. Bang for buck, this is the best mod any MM owner can buy, bone stock included. Think about it, read other posts here from other members who have done it. You'll probably come back here and complain that you have to learn how to drive your MM all over again. Go ahead, whine, we love it.

sarge, when u have time.....please tell me how the new torque converter benefits the car

[Reaper948]

Originally posted by greggtsr
just got stage 1 completed,4.30's,underdrive pulleys,chip,t-stat,and denso's.the car is totaly different.It's unreal now from 1500 rpm all the way up to 5500 rpm,takes off like a rocket.I love it !!!!
Now i'm allready kinda wonderin what to do next.The car is awsome, but not right off idle.What's next?
thanks

4.30s? an even better acceleration with a lower top speed?...

i wonder what itll do for the 1/4 mile

do u suggest getting 30's instead of 10s?