Update on the KVR brakes and rear sway bar

[Dennis Reinhart]

Ok I talked to KVR today, I sent them the rotors off of Kieths car and a rim, so they can design a afordable cross drilled rotor with pads and new break lines for the club, they also will design a more expensive and larger rotor with a 4 piston calper like the bear kit, at the same time I sent the dinky toy rear sway bar to ADDCO and they will make a bar for me in two sizes 1 1/4 and 1 1/8 this should realy help alot, so please just be patient its in the works and I satrted on the shorty headers today and high flow cats for Kieths car dyno testing later this week. Super charger next week.


Dennis

[nomad]

More power=Good:D

[JamesHecker]

Damn...this is good news!

[martyo]

Patience is not one of my virtues, but if Dennis says "wait" we wait.

[RCSignals]

Great news Dennis.

You may want to check Quickor for making anti-swaybars and bushings as well. I understand they supply the bushings to most of the places that claim to sell their "own"

http://www.quickor.com

[MN6]

Excellent News!!!! Just enough time to save some $$$ for the Brakes and Roll-bar. Dennis, hope you are pushing to have RPC stamped on the Calipers.........

[RF Overlord]

Dennis, you hit the nail on the head when you said "affordable cross-drilled rotors"...all of the ones I've looked at were like 200 bux each or more...or the company wouldn't sell just the rotor, they make you buy calipers, too....I would just like a nice replacement rotor (and pads) that looks sharp and adds a little stopping power without re-engineering my whole braking system, or my bank account. Thanks, dude.... :D :D :D

[MMM2003]

Whenever you (DR) get them available, I will purchase a set of cross drilled rotors. Most likely I won't put them on until after warranty is up, but I want to be sure to get a set !

The stock brakes work good, but they look kind of small and puny behind those huge 18" wheels !

[MitchB]

What size are the factory front and rear bars?

Thanks

Mitch

[Warpath]

Drilled rotors aren't really necessary anymore. Modern brake pads don't produce the gasses the old pads once did. The holes only weaken the rotors and can start cracks. I have seen in MM&FF (or another magazine) pictures of these cracks. They don't recommend them either. If you want to do them for looks, thats another thing.

[ghost]

Originally posted by Warpath
Drilled rotors aren't really necessary anymore. Modern brake pads don't produce the gasses the old pads once did. The holes only weaken the rotors and can start cracks. I have seen in MM&FF (or another magazine) pictures of these cracks. They don't recommend them either. If you want to do them for looks, thats another thing.

I have to respectfully disagree with some of this post.

Modern brake pads still produce too much gas at high temps, unless you go with a high-performance brake pad such as the Hawk HP+ (for autocrossing) or EBC "Greenstuff" Kevlar pads (for street use), which I use. The difference between the EBCs and "regular" pads is simply amazing. Check http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ebc/greenpads.jsp for more information on these. Doubtful that they're available for your cars, unless Marquis pads fit. Perhaps you'll want them for another car you have.

I also use cross-drilled rotors. You are correct when you say that stress cracks can develop, and they do if the holes are drilled. If the holes are cast into the rotor, this phenomenon is practically eliminated. Porsche uses this method ($$$). The problem with drilled holes in a rotor is that you can chamfer the holes on both sides of the rotor but there's no way to get at the INSIDE part of the holes, and that's where the weakness is. When you cast the rotor with holes, you can include the chamfers on the inside by design.

Slotted rotors are an option for those who don't like cross-drilled rotors. They still vent the gasses produced when pads start burning and seem to possess superior structural integrity. Look here for an example: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ebc/rotors.jsp. I may go this route next time, as hairline stress cracks have indeed developed in my rotors. I guess hard braking from triple-digits will do that. :D Damn, the car sure does stop though.

Here's a pic of my brakes so you can see what I'm talking about:

http://www.doersch.info/ghost/gallery/brakes.jpg



Braking is just as important as acceleration. Good thread. :)

Eric

[Warpath]

That's what I've heard and read though - that modern pads don't produce as much gas as asbestos pads. Venting them isn't necessary anymore. I'm no expert though.

[ghost]

Originally posted by Warpath
That's what I've heard and read though - that modern pads don't produce as much gas as asbestos pads. Venting them isn't necessary anymore. I'm no expert though.

I'm no expert either. ;)

But there was a situation last summer where I had to stand on the brakes HARD from 105 mph and the brakes faded after slowing down to 75 mph - I had no braking whatsoever. So I took the 35 ramp at 75 and nearly went off into a ravine. Thankfully, I know my car's handling limits and I pushed it to the MAX to save my skin on that one. My g/f was behind me at the time and witnessed the SMOKE emanating from my BRAKES as I came off the ramp. Cracked my solid rotors with that one too.

Some would say "Slow down!"

I say "Get better brakes!" :D

(Well, I did slow down a little after that.)

Eric
(Better Brakes Advocate)

[MAD-3R]

I say "Get better brakes!" :D
[/B]


You HAD brakes. And how long did it take to clean the seat, O' mighty brown trousers?

[ghost]

Originally posted by MAD-3R
You HAD brakes. And how long did it take to clean the seat, O' mighty brown trousers?

Cloth seats are hard to clean, let me tell you. :D