Coolent bypass tube

[Shora]

Well, I guess that I should have bought a torque wrench before hand but live, learn, and pay the price. :o

A while back when I flushed my radiator fluid I guess that I tightened the coolent bleed plug too tight and now it will not come lose. In fact, I broke two (2) craftsman socket wrenches trying to loosen the son of a gun. As per ya'lls great advice I was attemtping to bleed any remaining air after driving the car for 500 miles.

So how difficult is it to change the coolent bypass tube?

[KillJoy]

Get a 1/4" breaker bar.

KillJoy.

[Shora]

Get a 1/4" breaker bar.

KillJoy.

Details!! I have no idea what a breaker bar does or what I should do with it. ;)

[SergntMac]

1/4" drive socket stuff isn't strong enough for this job, I've broken a few Craftsman tools too. All is not lost.

First, a new tube will run you about 80 bucks (the last time I checked). No boneyard options right now, it's a crossover tube made for the 4V in a Marauder. However, changing it out is not a serious chore. You will start from scratch on the coolant top-off issue, and keep a garden hose handy to rinse the engine as you go along. But it's held in place by the two rear Altenator mounting bolts, pull the altenator and the tube should come out in your hand.

New tubes come with a new plug, but the plug isn't available alone (or so I have been told by my parts dude). Before you tear everything apart, consider finding a weld shop somewhere around you, and have a grade 8 nut in 1/2" or 9/16" tacked on, then wrench that.

It's not hopeless, it will come out. But the 1/4" drive stuff isn't strong enough to overcome the changes due to high temps.

Hope this helps, good luck?

[sweetair]

The breaker bar is going to give you enough torque to loosen the object you wish to loosen. It is a like a ratchet without the ratchet part. Careful you don't break the bleeder nut off. Firm continuous pressure. Good luck..

[Shora]

1/4" drive socket stuff isn't strong enough for this job, I've broken a few Craftsman tools too. All is not lost.

First, a new tube will run you about 80 bucks (the last time I checked). No boneyard options right now, it's a crossover tube made for the 4V in a Marauder. However, changing it out is not a serious chore. You will start from scratch on the coolant top-off issue, and keep a garden hose handy to rinse the engine as you go along. But it's held in place by the two rear Altenator mounting bolts, pull the altenator and the tube should come out in your hand.

New tubes come with a new plug, but the plug isn't available alone (or so I have been told by my parts dude). Before you tear everything apart, consider finding a weld shop somewhere around you, and have a grade 8 nut in 1/2" or 9/16" tacked on, then wrench that.

It's not hopeless, it will come out. But the 1/4" drive stuff isn't strong enough to overcome the changes due to high temps.

Hope this helps, good luck?

Great advice indeed!! This is exactly what I will do if said breaker bar option fails.

[Shora]

The breaker bar is going to give you enough torque to loosen the object you wish to loosen. It is a like a ratchet without the ratchet part. Careful you don't break the bleeder nut off. Firm continuous pressure. Good luck..

Getting enough torque is not where I was having my problem. The problem was finding a ratchet that can handle said torque. Since the ratchet is kinda small, I attached a tube to the end so that I could apply more pressure and even though I was careful to take it slow and easy the socket part of the wrench will break off inside the plug.

Do breaker bars have more durable socket they plugs or are they just longer for more torque?

Thanks again guys. :)

[Joe Walsh]

In addition to the 1/4" breaker bar spray some 'PB Blaster' on the plug and let the stuff soak in overnight.
That PB Blaster spray works wonders on old rusty bolts/threads.

[SergntMac]

Getting enough torque is not where I was having my problem. The problem was finding a ratchet that can handle said torque. Since the ratchet is kinda small, I attached a tube to the end so that I could apply more pressure and even though I was careful to take it slow and easy the socket part of the wrench will break off inside the plug. Do breaker bars have more durable socket they plugs or are they just longer for more torque?Let me ask you something...Would you use a 1/4" drive socket kit to remove or install a wheel lug nut?

No?

Why?

Because it's not the right tool for the task, right?

"Torque" isn't your problem here, my friend, it's "leverage" and 1/4" socket stuff can't take that extreme of leverage. The tool will break rather than damage the target. This is factored in. Factored in to using the correct tool for the task, and why tools are made in different scales.

1/4" was never designed to handle all that 3/8" and 1/2" scale force, which is why the smaller tools are rated in "inch-pound" torque, not "foot pound". You need to move up from the "micro" tools to their larger brothers, see my previous post?

Add a hardened nut to the cap and move up to wrenches (open or box) in standard sizes.

Milimeter vs. SAE is "what ever float your boat" okay? What ever you need to keep in time with the rest of your Marauder, but move up to something with more to bite on, and the tools built for taking that bite.

You'll be fine.

[Bradley G]

I busted off the drive tip on my ratchet, in that sob.
I had to use vise grips to remove the cap.
I have the extra cap, it's uglee, but you can have it for the asking.
If you welded a nut to it and painted it, no one will ever know (cept you)

[Shora]

Let me ask you something...Would you use a 1/4" drive socket kit to remove or install a wheel lug nut?

No?

Why?

Because it's not the right tool for the task, right?

"Torque" isn't your problem here, my friend, it's "leverage" and 1/4" socket stuff can't take that extreme of leverage. The tool will break rather than damage the target. This is factored in. Factored in to using the correct tool for the task, and why tools are made in different scales.

1/4" was never designed to handle all that 3/8" and 1/2" scale force, which is why the smaller tools are rated in "inch-pound" torque, not "foot pound". You need to move up from the "micro" tools to their larger brothers, see my previous post?

Add a hardened nut to the cap and move up to wrenches (open or box) in standard sizes.

Milimeter vs. SAE is "what ever float your boat" okay? What ever you need to keep in time with the rest of your Marauder, but move up to something with more to bite on, and the tools built for taking that bite.

You'll be fine.

Now I see where my problem began. See, I was told by someone that I trust and that works for Ford to use the 3/8 in socket. Now I can see that it was simply the wrong tool.

Thanks again. Do you know where I can buy those hardened nuts (cannot believe I just said that:eek: ) that you speak of?

[Shora]

I busted off the drive tip on my ratchet, in that sob.
I had to use vise grips to remove the cap.
I have the extra cap, it's uglee, but you can have it for the asking.
If you welded a nut to it and painted it, no one will ever know (cept you)

Brilliant!!!!

[Bradley G]

I believe the cap is brass.
Shora, do you want the cap?

[JACook]

Firm continuous pressure. Good luck..
I've found when trying to loosen stubborn fasteners (or plugs) it's better to use a bit of impact force, rather
than just continuous pressure alone. In this case, I'd start by using the firm continuous pressure, along with
some fairly sharp raps straight down on the head of the breaker bar. Rapping the side of the breaker bar, about
a third of the way back from the head can also help. Again, whilst applying that firm continuous pressure.

[FordNut]

Use vise grips to remove the plug. Put it back on rather loosely, as it seals with an o-ring and doesn't need to be all that tight. I have a spare I'll send you, it may not be perfect but it's close. PM me your address.

[Zack]

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/4/0/4/Marauder006.jpg

[fastblackmerc]

Remember, you can go to your nearest Sears store and exchange your broken Craftsman tools for new ones.....

[KillJoy]

Here is a link to a Craftsman 1/4" Breaker Bar.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+G eneral+Purpose&pid=00944202000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Socket+Accessories&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

If the use of this, plus the use of PB Blaster does not solve your problem..... get a Pipe Wrench, Vise Grips...or whatever, and give them a try. Using them will most likely marr up the surface though.

When you have the Breaker Bar on....w/ a constant force being applied..... whack the handle end w/ a hammer a few times to add some impact to it.

Worst case scenario.... it will break the bar. Just return it for an exchange and go on to the next idea. ;)

KillJoy

[KillJoy]

Zack & Mac...... interesting idea w/ that bolt....

Hmmmmm........

KillJoy

[Zack]

If you anti-seize the threads and the mating surface of the cap, this problem will never happen again.

[Loco1234]

Sears will no longer take Craftsman Breaker Bar back...
I have broken 2 over the years... The first one they took back...

I tryed to return another on elast yer and they told me they no longer accept them for exchange since customers use and abuse them for inappropriate uses...

I said thats bull****.... they took it back but told me the new one they gave me has a serial # code that will prevent me from being able to return...

They did the same thing with my Torque Wrenches....

[KillJoy]

Nope..... according to my local Sears GM, ALL Craftsman handtools are covered under a LIFETIME Warranty.

Go to a different Sears.......

KillJoy

[Shora]

If you anti-seize the threads and the mating surface of the cap, this problem will never happen again.

I like the nut welding idea that both Sarge and you suggested. The pic makes me want to do it even more since it looks pretty good.

Is anti-seize a product brand? If so, where can I buy it? Like you said, I never want this to happen again.

Edit: How did you paint it? Spray paint or touch up paint from a dealer?

[KillJoy]

Anti-Seize is a product. It is sold by many companies. If you go to the local car parts store and and ask for anti-seize..... they'll know what you mean. ;)

KillJoy

[Shora]

Remember, you can go to your nearest Sears store and exchange your broken Craftsman tools for new ones.....

Good idea! I hope they don't need a receipt. If so, like my first posts states "live, learn, and pay the price."

By the way, I like what my Dad always says when he hears that I have broken something on my car while attempting to maintain it myself: "I am not rich enough to work on my car myself like you do."

[Shora]

Use vise grips to remove the plug. Put it back on rather loosely, as it seals with an o-ring and doesn't need to be all that tight. I have a spare I'll send you, it may not be perfect but it's close. PM me your address.


Thanks my friend! You are too kind! PM on the way. :beer:

[Shora]

I believe the cap is brass.
Shora, do you want the cap?


I am going to take Fordnut's plug since he stated that it is in pretty good condition. Your offer is so very generous and I am greatful!

:beer:

[cyclone03]

Get an Impack socket reducer 3/8" to 1/4 drive, impacked sockets are a little tougher than the plain old sockets.No you can use 3/8" tools for more leverage.If you break the impack socket then you know it's well and trully stuck.

[69marquis conv]

I had trouble with the coolant plug on a '96 Cobra (also DOHC) I had a couple of years ago. After I broke the 1/4 drive ratchet tip off in the square hole, I used a hacksaw and sawed ( yes- SAWED!) a notch across the top of the plug. Not a very deep notch, but just enough to allow me to put a flat blade screwdriver in the notch and tap it gently around to the right with a hammer. After you get the plug out you can then weld a nut or bolt cap to the top of the plug.

[Shora]

I had trouble with the coolant plug on a '96 Cobra (also DOHC) I had a couple of years ago. After I broke the 1/4 drive ratchet tip off in the square hole, I used a kacksaw and sawed ( yes- SAWED!) a notch across the top of the plug. Not a very deep notch, but just enough to allow me to put a flat blade screwdriver in the notch and tap it gently around to the right with a hammer. After you get the plug out you can then weld a nut or bolt cap to the top of the plug.

Another good idea!!

Thanks

[Blackened300a]

Try the breaker bar idea first instead of going through the hassle of having a nut welded onto a small plug.
Breaker bars are designed to allow you to use more pressure then a ratchet.
True you wouldnt use a 1/4 inch drive on Lugnuts, but when the Air gun isnt doing the trick, You pull out the 1/2 inch drive Breaker bar to remove them.
For this application, only the 1/4 inch drive will fit into the plug so the breaker bar is in fact the right tool for the job.

[fastblackmerc]

The 3/8 to 1/4 reducer (impact, usually black in color) is a good idea. I've never had to show a reciept when returning a Craftsman tool. As long as it says Craftsman you good to go!

[Breadfan]

The 3/8 to 1/4 reducer (impact, usually black in color) is a good idea. I've never had to show a reciept when returning a Craftsman tool. As long as it says Craftsman you good to go!

Agreed - these tools are going to be hardened and stronger for use on an impact gun. They'll probably have more resistance to breakage than the other items.

I also second the vice grips or Channel lock pliers, use a nice rage between the pliers and the cap to lessen any damage to it.

good luck!

[Shora]

Here is a link to a Craftsman 1/4" Breaker Bar.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+G eneral+Purpose&pid=00944202000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Socket+Accessories&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes


Update: The link is for the 1/2" Breaker Bar and required an attachment to fit the 1/4" plug hole. Without fail, the attachment broke inside of the plug the same way that the socket wrenches did. I went back to Sears and looked for the 1/4" breaker bar. When I saw it I immediately knew that it wouldn't work since it was no bigger or more durable looking than the 1/4" wrenches that were breaking like it's the 80's. (Note: was break dancing an 80's or 90's thing?)

So, I attepmted to use plumping pliers with "soft jaws" in order not to butcher the piper and plug but the soft jaw teeth were gripping worse than an elderly person's dentures.

Thus, I attempted to use vise grips whose teeth kept slipping and damaging the paint on the plug and tube. (It looks nasty there right now.)

Finally I broke out the Craftsman's Heavy Duty 10" Pipe Wrench and BAM(!) the plug loosened. I almost broke out in tears of joy.


:thanks: guys for helping me deal with this. Now I am waiting for the plug that FordNut was nice enough to send me to arrive. I will attach it with Anti-Seize and only torque it to 18 pounds this time.

Also, I will be working on welding a grade 8 nut and detailing the the process here for all who would like to do it.

:beer: