what are some good handling mods for the MM

[Black03Marauder]

So I finally have money....It's been awhile since Ive last had money so Im kinda out of the loop on the state of the aftermarket for the MM.

I got into Autocrossing the Marauder and I really need something to cure the body-roll and something for more grip in the front.

Im sure someone will mention control arms and sway bars.

Which would be the best "value for money" mod....unless it turns out there is only one choice.

another thing, will any of the mods ruin the ride quality? I gotta daily drive my MM.

[Drock96Marquis]

IMO, swaybars are the best bang for buck, and of the bulk of suspension mods don't decrease ride quality that much.

ADDCOs are available for your car, IIRC Dennis sells them, they are on Summit as well.

[Bigdogjim]

Mac & Zack rear control arms and the swaybars are the way to go.

It will firm up the car and plant the rear!!

[BK_GrandMarquis]

Swaybars, rear control arms and QA1 adjustable shocks. There are several brands of each, take your pick. All depends on how much you have to spend. :)

[jimlam56]

Mac & Zack rear control arms and the swaybars are the way to go.

It will firm up the car and plant the rear!!

I agree! Big difference with sway bars.

[Bradley G]

If you have some mechanical inclination you can Make your own upper and lower control arms, and Watts links.
The uppers may not be worth making, because they are avalible from Ford, that are found on Limos, Billet aluminum.
I drive mine dailey and the only negitive is the Watts link bushing rubs ever so slightly on the mount bracket causing a squeek.
You can only hear it if you go over a speed bump with the windows open.
Or when I sit my butt down in the seat.
Or when the air suspension settles, for about five seconds.
It may sound sick, but I am starting to take a liking to the sound!
Shakes26 gave me his takeoffs from his Metco install.
I horse traded Da'Law my second round (the wifeys' car)take offs, for a stock Airbox.
I'm a tune away from an entire intake up grade, on the GMQ; Air box, 2005 zip tube, 80 mm Maf, and Throttle body and plenum spacers.

[RF Overlord]

Here's my list, in order of bang-for-the-buck:

1). Up-sized rear sway bar. (Addco from Dennis)
Tied for first with:
1). Zack & Mac rear control arms. (I think they have a set or two left...if not, then get the Metcos)

2). Up-sized front sway bar.

3). Eibach lowering springs.

4). Metco Watts link.

5). Naake QA1 struts.

[fastblackmerc]

Here's my list, in order of bang-for-the-buck:

1). Up-sized rear sway bar. (Addco from Dennis)
Tied for first with:
1). Zack & Mac rear control arms. (I think they have a set or two left...if not, then get the Metcos)

2). Up-sized front sway bar.

3). Eibach lowering springs.

4). Metco Watts link.

5). Naake QA1 struts.

^^ What he said ^^^

[jdando]

Lets not forget tires. In my opinion the stock tires blow for track day/autocross events. Way too hard and tall.

I have a set of 245/35/18 tires (100 treadwear) for track days. The difference from the stock tires is night and day.

Depending on your mods you may have a wide variety of wheel/tire options to get good rubber.


My list of items would be;

Metco upper and lower control arms
Dedicated track tires/wheels
Sway bars
Naake QA-1

This way there would be minimal negative impact on street driving and maximum track day improvement.

jeremy

[merc]

Lets not forget tires. In my opinion the stock tires blow for track day/autocross events. Way too hard and tall.

I have a set of 245/35/18 tires (100 treadwear) for track days. The difference from the stock tires is night and day.

Depending on your mods you may have a wide variety of wheel/tire options to get good rubber.


My list of items would be;

Metco upper and lower control arms
Dedicated track tires/wheels
Sway bars
Naake QA-1

This way there would be minimal negative impact on street driving and maximum track day improvement.

jeremy

I would add brakes if you going to autocross. Tires should be number 1 on the list.

[SergntMac]

I drive mine dailey and the only negitive is the Watts link bushing rubs ever so slightly on the mount bracket causing a squeek. I had that squeek too, Brad, and it turned out to be the body mount bolts on the passenger side needed to be re-torqued. One under the B pillar, one under the rear passenger seat and one under the trunk, which needed it the worst. You may have to push the Megs tip aside to get to it.

[94_302]

What about the cutting a coil off the stock springs? Isnt that what Kenny Brown did? How does that compare to the eibachs?

[DEFYANT]

Nice part is, you can rework the entire suspension and not go broke. I went with the Addco rear sway bar and Metco control arm and noticed and huge change in the way the car rides and handles.

In the future, I plan on cutting one coil off the fron springs, front Addco and the QA1s all around. Hopefully by this time next year.

+1 what merc said.

If your going to go autocrossing, look into big brakes and the proper tires.

[shakes_26]

Numer 1 for handling for auto-x or racing is tires. Not so cheap however.

Baring that expense, I'd spend my money on rear swaybar upgrade. Next step and more expensive the control arms, take your pick, I have Metco's and love them.

I would NOT spend the money on the watts link, unless you have a few hundred $ burning a hole in your pocket. Nor would I spend the money on the QA1's, they are nice, but I dont feel you need them, better spend the dollars on the dedicated track tires/spare wheels.

Brakes, auto-x you shouldnt be getting to the point where the stock stuff is 'beyond its limits', might consider more aggresive pads..eventually, but your rotors will suffer and then that means more $$$. Your stock brakes are fine, maybe use fresh (broken in) brake pads if yours are worn. And flush your brake fluid frequent before/after events.

So in review

1. Swaybar, rear only (for auto-x it will really make your turn in sharp)
1x. Tires, but due to cost you probably will skip for now
2. Rear control arms
3. Front swaybar/tires
4. QA1/tires
5. Watts link/tires
6. brake pads/tires

Just my experience, but for the bang 2 buck ratio, the rear swaybar will make huge difference to your auto-x times.

[KillJoy]

What can I say that has not already been said???

I have:

Front and Rear Sway Bars
PHP Rear Control Arms
Cut 1 Full Coill off of the Front Springs

My car sits right and corners like a car 1000lbs less.

You have plenty of opinions and options here. Now the decision is up to you!

KillJoy

[shakes_26]

I wouldn't advise cutting or stiffening the suspension, two basic reasons.

1. rides like crap
2. For ultimate handling, you need weight transfer, you want the car to rotate, too stiff and the car will just plow (understeer), long discourse on that but may I suggest you read Car Lopez' book 'Going Faster", I think its also referred to as the 'Skip barber' book.

I ran my rear QA1 stiff at Sebring earlier this year, car would understeer, I dropped the setting, softer, and wow, it let the rear move up and transfer weight to the front of the car so the tires would grab better.

Also left out a tip in previous post, tire pressures. start with door plate settings, 32psi I think, then you can bump up the rear to help rotate the car better.

But change only one thing at a time!!!!!!



What about the cutting a coil off the stock springs? Isnt that what Kenny Brown did? How does that compare to the eibachs?

[Black03Marauder]

I figure I'll have the control arms and sway bars put in first and see how it feels after that.

Brakes are probably going to be needed in the future. But for now, Im not good enough a driver yet to get the car to go so fast that the brakes seem inadequate.

I dont see the Z+M control arms on reinhart, does that mean they're gone for good?

another question, where do you get the front sway bar?

[jdando]

I ran my rear QA1 stiff at Sebring earlier this year, car would understeer, I dropped the setting, softer, and wow, it let the rear move up and transfer weight to the front of the car so the tires would grab better.

Also left out a tip in previous post, tire pressures. start with door plate settings, 32psi I think, then you can bump up the rear to help rotate the car better.

But change only one thing at a time!!!!!!

Excellent points, espcially the last one!

Regarding tire pressure. Not sure I have a good handle on this one. The Brain Trust from my last driving school suggested 40psi as a starting point. Based on their lack of knowledge on the car, my skills, etc. The concern was that I would be rolling the tire over if we went with low pressures. I guess this is something I can experiment with at the next session.

jeremy

[Loco1234]

To get the Zack & Mac control arms...

Contact the MM.net member "Zack"

I believe he has a few left....
Or search the site for them...(search is on first page of sit...)

I would search for the sway bars too.... not sure whom has them though....
(front sway bar works great...but I heard you should not use it if you're gonna drag race....but road course...its awesome....

I have both on my car though and the work great....