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baltimoremm
09-15-2006, 07:54 PM
I finally got the cadillac in its new paint color last weekend (arctic blue, pix to follow). It turned out well, but as I expected, since we didnt have the benefit of a downdraft booth, its going to need some serious wetsanding to take care of the orange peel.
I've wetsanded and buffed in the past, starting off w/ 1500 then finishing w/ 2000 and buffing out w/ an orbital and 3M compounds.
I'm wondering if anyone here has some proven techniques for maximum gloss and smoothness, and if there are better buffing products out there than the
3M. I'm also wondering if its better to use a standard buffing pad or one of those foam pads.

69marquis conv
09-16-2006, 03:30 AM
After the wet-sanding, I use the wool pads with a fine to ultra-fine compound. (Using the wool pads is a little like sex: you have to keep it moving or keep it wet, or both) to keep from burning the paint.
For the final treatment, try 3M's foam waffle pad and 3M Foam polishing pad glaze for dark or light colored paints- (there are two types). You can't beat the swirl-free shine that this combo will deliver!

jgc61sr2002
09-16-2006, 04:34 PM
Most shops use the foam pads.

LILALLEYKATT
09-17-2006, 09:25 AM
The foam pads are the best for me. They come job specific i.e. compound pads or finishing pads. I would also like advise you to start with 2K grit Meguires S-3025 paper instead of 1500 grit because you are less likely to get a deep groove in the paint that will be hard to buff out. I purchased my MM 1 week ago and I have started the wetsand process which usually takes 50-60 hrs per car. I used to run an assembley line rebuilding insurance totals and we would have to wetsand most all of our stuff before it was sent to auction so if you would like PM me and I will be glad to foreward my reccomendations to assist your buffing efforts...I can send pics to..

KillJoy
09-17-2006, 09:30 AM
Man...you guys got some Brass Ones! Without have a GOOD knowledge, there is NO WAY I could sand on the MM.

But...if you all wanna help... :D

KillJoy

LILALLEYKATT
09-17-2006, 09:34 AM
We are not sanding the paint off to the bare metal. We are lightly scuffing the surface and then polishing the surface to rival any Porsche or mercedes finish. Once you see how simple the process is and you see the results your fears will be a thing of the past... I will be glad to share my years of experiance with anyone whom wants to learn. I can even show you how to wetsand in person. I am in Birmingham and the class is free just bring your buffer - and the Beer.

KillJoy
09-17-2006, 01:25 PM
I know that WS is just in the clear coat, but still. I do not know if I could take the first swipe :D

KillJoy

LILALLEYKATT
09-17-2006, 02:24 PM
I use warm uncontaminated water i.e. zero grit and dish detergent to lubricate the paint surfect to allow the sandpaper to slide over it. You must be in a quiet area so you can listen to sanding. If you hear anything that remotely sounds like grit on the surface you get a new batch of water and start over. I sqeegee the suface often looking for shiney spots. Thats how far the surface has to be sanded down to in order to remove the orange peel.

KillJoy
09-17-2006, 02:39 PM
How often do you do this? Perhaps pics of all of the steps?

What will WS an entire car do for the quality of the paint? Will it remove small scratches, or paint touch up spots?

Very interesting topic for me.

KillJoy

baltimoremm
09-17-2006, 04:00 PM
can you wax immediatley after buffing?? or do you have to wait

SergntMac
09-17-2006, 05:24 PM
I had my #1x completely wet sanded a year ago by my dealship body shop. Jessie is pretty good with paint. Came out looking brand new, but I haven't a clue how he got it that way.

Sounds like another top-notch tech thread is taking hold here. Bravo, and please keep flowing, folks!

LILALLEYKATT
09-17-2006, 08:02 PM
Well as you all know I just purchased a super low mi MM after I got bitten seeing the MMs parked @ DC. I usually wetsand my personal vehicles as soon as I get them. You should have seen my 05 V-8 Touareg I spent about 50 hrs wetsanding it during the 1st week I owned it and you would not beleave the complements I continually recieved until I sold it. I have done more cars than I can remember beit musclecar resto or insurance salvage cars with a clear tittle that I would buy to resell. When you see a car that has been properly done it really does something for you. You just feel like you are looking at a special car. i.e a finish you can read a book out of from the reflection. I will start the documentary process next week as I pick back up on the next panel to be done on my new MM to include pics...Stay tuned ...AL

Donny Carlson
09-17-2006, 09:40 PM
I have done more cars than I can remember beit musclecar resto or insurance salvage cars with a clear tittle that I would buy to resell. When you see a car that has been properly done it really does something for you. You just feel like you are looking at a special car. i.e a finish you can read a book out of from the reflection.

Al, we need to start negotiations on you doing a certain '06 Harley Truck. Seriously.

magindat
09-18-2006, 06:04 AM
As posted above, 3m 2K, then finishing compound. Wool pad on the 2K and foam 'egg crate' pad on the finisher.

As far as waxing after, I would wait for the compund to dry out in the nooks and crannies (day or 2). Then brush out the compund remnants, wash and wax. I don't care how good you are, compound gets EVERYWHERE!

Agreed with starting at 2K on the wet sand. Sure, it'll take a little longer, but there's less chance of ruining the paint. You want to take off high spots, not create low spots.

Agreed on clean clean clean water with a touch of detergent. Rinse the paper often. Like the American flag, if the paper hits the ground, destroy it. The '5 second rule' doasn't count here! You'll pick up grit for sure.

If your fingers are not experienced, break off about a 4" length of paint stick/ Saok it in the water with the paper to soften it. Wrap the paper around the stick. This will help keep from leaving finger tracks. If you use this method, the stick must stay parallel with curved body lines. If you sand long way across a curve, you'll likely dig a hole.

I also keep a bottle of water with me and rinse the area I'm working often, so I can see past the little bit of suds and the white powder that's created as you sand.

Also, above is correct. You can 'hear it' when it's right.

Above all else. TAKE YOUR TIME. There's no hurry!!!!!

KillJoy
09-18-2006, 06:11 AM
Will it remove small scratches, or paint touch up spots?


Well?????

:confused: :confused: :confused:

KillJoy

:banana:

magindat
09-18-2006, 06:17 AM
Well?????

:confused: :confused: :confused:

KillJoy

:banana:

Yes and no.
If the scratch is in the clear, you are actually sanding a shallow 'bowl' into the clear coat as deep as the scratch. So, yes the scratch will disappear.

If it's a paint nick, all the sand ing in the world won't put paint on the car!

BTW scratch=nick if scratch is deeper than clear.

Edit: Wet sanding will LEVEL touch up spots to make them less light catching (noticable).

alarmguy
09-18-2006, 06:22 AM
subscribing to this thread

magindat
09-18-2006, 06:46 AM
How often do you do this? Perhaps pics of all of the steps?

What will WS an entire car do for the quality of the paint? Will it remove small scratches, or paint touch up spots?

Very interesting topic for me.

KillJoy

Be careful Steve. You really can only do this once on afactory paint job. The Factory clear is SOOOOOOO THIN! Basically, it's not a repair. Wet sanding is the first step in polishing the clear coat much like you'd polish a metal.

Here's some pics of prep, sand, paint, sand, polish of my old civic.

http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=331&folderid=33479&groupid=64748&folderview=thumbs&ck=

http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=331&folderid=74171&groupid=64748&folderview=thumbs&ck=

KillJoy
09-18-2006, 09:10 AM
Be careful Steve. You really can only do this once on afactory paint job.


Yeah....my post wasn't as clear as I had intended. I meant... how often he wetsands vehicles. Not how often do you wetsand the same car.

KillJoy

baltimoremm
09-18-2006, 12:58 PM
Yeah, I put 5 coats of clear on the cadillac for the sole reason that I KNEW i was going to have to wetsand the top two off, and still be safe enough to not burn through all of the clear
I'd like to do the Marauder eventually too, but I'm scared about actually how thin the clear may be and I'm afraid I may burn through it. Is there a way to tell if you're getting too close to the basecoat????


ANOTHER QUESTION:
My rambler is a single stage paint, can you wetsand/buff single stage?

DarthMarauder
09-18-2006, 06:57 PM
Yeah, I put 5 coats of clear on the cadillac for the sole reason that I KNEW i was going to have to wetsand the top two off, and still be safe enough to not burn through all of the clear
I'd like to do the Marauder eventually too, but I'm scared about actually how thin the clear may be and I'm afraid I may burn through it. Is there a way to tell if you're getting too close to the basecoat????


ANOTHER QUESTION:
My rambler is a single stage paint, can you wetsand/buff single stage?

To tell you are getting to close is when your getting color on your sandpaper. So check it often, dip it in water often and check it each time you dip is a good way to make sure you arent pulling up color.