how do you care for your tips?

[the fat bastid]

having never had a car where the exhaust looks good i dont really know how to care for the tips.

are they coated with anything like our rims?

should i use anything special to clean them?

whats with that little hole that is in both of them? (about an inch in from the bottom of each)

i've got scuffs on the outer edge how would they get there if the car goes the other way?

also there are little slices that go around the bottom of the edge.

both tips are like this, is this just how they are manufactured or what?

i could take some pics if you'd like

thanks

[RF Overlord]

fat:

1) I don't know.

2) I don't know. I use a Brillo pad...

3) It's a drain hole so water doesn't collect in them.

4) I don't know.

5) Yes, there are.

6) Yes, that's the way they're made.

[Blue Marauder]

The exhaust tips are stainless steel. They won't corrode. I just wipe them down with a damp cloth when I wash the car. You could use a little chrome polish. Definitely don't use anything abrasive on them like a Brillo pad.

[SergntMac]

Originally posted by RF Overlord
fat:

1) I don't know.

2) I don't know. I use a Brillo pad...

3) It's a drain hole so water doesn't collect in them.

4) I don't know.

5) Yes, there are.

6) Yes, that's the way they're made.

1) Whether you have the OEM resonator tips, or the aftermarket "open" tips, MEGS tips are made with an old school formula. 4130 cold rolled steel, knurled edges (think "hemmed" slacks) and triple chrome plating. Nothing exotic mind you, because the old way has a use life longer that you. These tips will not burn, blue, oxidize, or discolor in any way, when properly (and simply) cared for.

2) Brillo sounds a bit overkill for routine daily care, but perfect for the greasy road grime and caked/baked on mud and carbon deposits. Let's kill two birds with one stone, eh? This process applies to both the tips and the polished MM wheels. a)Make/keep a separate wash mitt for the wheels and tips. b)Wash them with your customary "wash the car" soap mix, but wash the rest of the car first, before wheels and tip. c)Don't use this mitt for anything else on the car because brake dust from the wheels and road dirt/grease/grime/carbon deposits from the wheels/tips will damage your paint.

After drying with a likewise dedicated towel or chamois, buff up the shine with common everyday vinegar straight up from a spray bottle, applied and buffed with a clean, soft cotton polishing mitt. Vinegar is the king of shine on plated and glass surfaces, it will sparkle beyond your dreams, and it's only .79c a gallon.

3) Ditto...Drain holes.

4) Scuffs? Are you talking real scratches? Or, real stubborn dirt/grime spray patterns? If its real scratches, ever drive in reverse? I do. If it's dirt/grime pattterns that can be scrubbed off with Brillo, that's a "tell." Something that gets left behind from air flow patterns around the car at high speed. It's also why the rear window of any SUV gets caked in dirt, while the rest of the SUV appears to stay cleaner much longer. I still can't imagine what you mean by "scuffs," maybe a pic of this to my e-mail (sergntmac@aol.com) would help?

5) Ditto.

6) Ditto.

[Bigdogjim]

The nice thing is you don't have to clean them all the way to mufflers. (unless you lay on your back)

[CRUZTAKER]

Fortunately, having installed new tips on friday, I was able to paste a major amount of wax on them BEFORE they ended up like my old set.....scratched and stained.

They were pushed out and down, therefore they are easy to reach. They are the last item the cotton towel hits before it goes into the laundry after each wash.

I will use a crawler and wax them regularly. The new ones look SO nice.

[martyo]

Use Nev-R-Dull. You won't be disappointed. Get your girlfriend to buy it for you like I did.

[jgc61sr2002]

Marty - Get your GF to clean them. HeHe :up:

[gonzo50]

Originally posted by CRUZTAKER
I was able to paste a major amount of wax on them BEFORE they ended up like my old set.....scratched and stained.
CRUZTAKER, what kind of wax do you use on StainlessSteel, I didn't know you could wax them,:confused: please share your secret, Thanks.

[RCSignals]

Originally posted by martyo
Use Nev-R-Dull. You won't be disappointed. Get your girlfriend to buy it for you like I did.

Too shy to ask the sales staff for Nev-R-Dull yourself Marty?? ;)

[drobin]

Fat,

The scuff marks are probably from the installation on the assembly line, I have the same ones on each side of mine. It would probably help if the assembly side would be more careful when installing these babies...

Donald

[Blue Marauder]

Aren't Brillo pads basically cleanser impregnated steel wool? Why would you use anything that harsh on the tips. The steel wool can scratch them (You never use steel wool on a stainless steel kitchen sink. Pieces of the steel wool will imbed themselves in the stainless and rust.), plus the cleanser is an abrasive. I would never touch any part of a car with Brillo except maybe to clean the tires (Used them years ago for that purpose, but not necessary today with modern tire cleaners.).

[Fourth Horseman]

I'm no expert, but isn't the chrome plating on these tips much harder than the soft steel in the brillo pad? If you just lightly wiped the surface with the pad in a constant direction I wouldn't think you'd scratch them. And even if it did cause light scratches, I would think that following up with a chrome shine product like Mother's makes should take care of anything the brillo pad did.

[Mike M]

Martyo, my girlfriend bought you Nev-r-Dull? I didn't even know that you knew her...that *****!

[Blue Marauder]

Originally posted by Fourth Horseman
I'm no expert, but isn't the chrome plating on these tips much harder than the soft steel in the brillo pad? If you just lightly wiped the surface with the pad in a constant direction I wouldn't think you'd scratch them. And even if it did cause light scratches, I would think that following up with a chrome shine product like Mother's makes should take care of anything the brillo pad did.

Are you willing to test it and find out? I'm not. I still advise against using Brillo pads. Save them for your dirty dishes.

[gja]

Nev-R-Dull is the thing to use on bright metals.
Learned it polishing uniform buttons and buckles.
Leaves no residue and gets oxidation off w/o being corrosive.
Take our advice (MartyO and me), use it and you WILL be pleased.

[yorks]

I also use Nev-R-Dull. I would highly recommend it. No abrasives and the shine seems to last longer than anything else I've tried. Maybe it leaves some kind of protective coating after you wipe it off?

[RCSignals]

The meg's tips are Chromed? I thought they were polished stainless steel.

from what I see, Innovative Interceptors sells two kinds (actually three). one is chromed, the other two are polished

[SergntMac]

I'm telling you guys, you need to see what a shot of vinegar can do with polished metals and glass. It will make you think twice about spending your hard earned bucks on brand name polishes that do the same thing, but only make YOU work harder.

[Blue Marauder]

Originally posted by RCSignals
The meg's tips are Chromed? I thought they were polished stainless steel.

From the Marauder sales brochure:

"True Dual Exhaust
Providing a hint of the Marauder's impressive power is an ominous exhaust note delivered through a 2¼-inch true dual exhaust. Accentuating the dual exhaust is a pair of 3½-inch polished stainless steel exhaust tips."

Hence my advisory against using Brillo pads or any sort of harsh abrasive cleaner. Even chrome plating can be damaged by the over-zealous use of any metal polish as it can polish right through the chrome.

[Blue Marauder]

Originally posted by SergntMac
I'm telling you guys, you need to see what a shot of vinegar can do with polished metals and glass. It will make you think twice about spending your hard earned bucks on brand name polishes that do the same thing, but only make YOU work harder.

Vinegar works because it is acetic ACID. It eats away anything on the surface of the metal. I suspect that prolonged use could also etch the surface of the metal. I would not use it for such a purpose. The best chrome replaters recommend nothing stronger than car wash soap/water followed by Windex. That is what I use on all the chrome and polished stainless on my antique.

I will agree that vinegar buffed with newsprint is excellent on glass. Glass is much harder than polished stainless or chrome.

[SergntMac]

Originally posted by Blue Marauder
Vinegar works because it is acetic ACID. It eats away anything on the surface of the metal. I suspect that prolonged use could also etch the surface of the metal.

Agreed. Long term use of vinegar on polished metals is not good advice after all. Maybe as soon as year 2050, your tips will look like *****. I withdraw my suggestion.

[CRUZTAKER]

Originally posted by gonzo50
CRUZTAKER, what kind of wax do you use on StainlessSteel, I didn't know you could wax them,:confused: please share your secret, Thanks.

OK, I'm busted. I was hoping no one would ask.
I used the stuff my wife uses on our fridge and stove. It's an Amana product specifically for polishing stainless steel. It works quite nicely. Available at appliance stores I presume. The bottle is not empty yet. The fridge is new.

I once used Zaino on the old tips with no unusual side effects. I felt it made it easier to clean the grime off later.

LET ME PUT THE BRILLO RESULT ?? TO REST

I admit, the last tips were so bad by the time I discovered them looking so bad, I used a brillo pad. It RUINS the finish with fine scratches much like if you brillo'd the bumpers on a '56 chevy. It is tremendously noticable.

[martyo]

Originally posted by SergntMac
Agreed. Long term use of vinegar on polished metals is not good advice after all. Maybe as soon as year 2050, your tips will look like *****. I withdraw my suggestion.

Mac: You just made my morning cup of tea come out of my nose!!You kill me!!!

[RF Overlord]

Ok, I admit it...using a Brillo (actually an SOS) may not have been my brightest idea, but I had chunks of road tar on them and I used it gently..

So...what do I use to restore them now?

[martyo]

Originally posted by RF Overlord
Ok, I admit it...using a Brillo (actually an SOS) may not have been my brightest idea, but I had chunks of road tar on them and I used it gently..

So...what do I use to restore them now?

A call to wes chain and a wire welder should do the trick

[yorks]

RF...Try vinegar
"Results may vary."
Sorry Sarge couldn't resist.
PS...Check's in the mail.

[CRUZTAKER]

Originally posted by martyo
A call to wes chain and a wire welder should do the trick

And the new ones sound sooooo much better as well.

[JohnnyB]

use a quality metal cleaner and polisher......

[Blue Marauder]

Hey, Sarge;

Far be it for me to tell you how to maintain your cars. If you want to use acetic acid or even Brillo pads on your cars, that's up to you. However, as the owner and restorer of antique cars, I would never use anything that harsh on any of my vehicles. That's my opinion and all I have to say on the subject.

[TAF]

Hey Blue...feel free to use PMs or email....OK?

[Cooper]

Originally posted by drobin
Fat,

The scuff marks are probably from the installation on the assembly line, I have the same ones on each side of mine. It would probably help if the assembly side would be more careful when installing these babies...

Donald

Donald- You obviously have not been to the STAP assembly line to watch the Marauder being made... (I have). The polished stainless steel exhaust tips are completely covered with a protective covering which looks like thick cardboard while they are being installed on the car. As a matter of fact, the protective covering is left on the tips as the car is driven off the assembly line and out into the "yard" at the STAP. There is NO WAY the scuff marks could happen on the assembly line.

[cyclone03]

ok this is close to being beat to death but heres what I do.
Just like mac same soap and water used on the car with a seperate mit.
Any stains are removed with WD40.
Then Mequires all metal polish.

[CRUZTAKER]

I gotta get some WD40....that's about 4th 'non-lubing' use I've learned on this forum.

Nice :up:

[cyclone03]

WD40 is a lube????

[RCSignals]

cyclone03, WD40 doesn't have much lubrication quality at all.
It was actually developed as a water dispersant.
That's where WD40 name comes from "Water Dispersant - 40th formula"

[TAF]

Originally posted by RCSignals
cyclone03, WD40 doesn't have much lubrication quality at all.
It was actually developed as a water dispersant.
That's where WD40 name comes from "Water Dispersant - 40th formula"

Man....How comeYOURavatar doesn't read "Massive Intellect" :lol: :lol:

[RCSignals]

What's the matter Sher......errr Todd, don't believe me? :)

[Bigdogjim]

Originally posted by RCSignals
cyclone03, WD40 doesn't have much lubrication quality at all.
It was actually developed as a water dispersant.
That's where WD40 name comes from "Water Dispersant - 40th formula"

If you think that something then log on to the web site. I think its a blast..You can sign up for e-mail. This year they are 50 years in the bussiness.

[RCSignals]

WD40 has turned out to almost a miracle product with limitless uses, but it still isn't a true lubricant.

[Bigdogjim]

Originally posted by RCSignals
WD40 has turned out to almost a miracle product with limitless uses, but it still isn't a true lubricant.

That as it maybe I have nothing better on the locks........

[RCSignals]

It works great on locks. It disperses water and corrosion, and doesn't have oil to gum up the mechanism

[Fourth Horseman]

Originally posted by Blue Marauder
From the Marauder sales brochure:

"True Dual Exhaust
Providing a hint of the Marauder's impressive power is an ominous exhaust note delivered through a 2¼-inch true dual exhaust. Accentuating the dual exhaust is a pair of 3½-inch polished stainless steel exhaust tips."

Ah, I stand corrected. I thought they were chromed.

[Paul T. Casey]

I use Mothers Chrome Polish, tips look good, Mother's is safe on all chrome/shiney silvery stuff on MM, including our faux carbon fiber plastic dash something or other. Been using Mother's on the chromed plastic on my wagons, and no ill affects.

[MAD-3R]

WD40 is also a great Bug killer. Just point, spray and light. dead bug.

[LincMercLover]

I use a polishing wad. Takes off tar with minimal rubbing and makes cleaning the tips the next time round quick and easy. I believe it's by Never-Dull, in a chromish looking can.

RF,

Have you tried polishing the rims with a good 300 grit sand paper? :lol: (Hey, I've been gone for awhile!)

[MAD-3R]

Thats just evil...

[LincMercLover]

Me? Evil? No... I gave that job to the GF... :D

[MENINBLK]

The product is Eagle One Never Dull Wadding Polish.
It comes in a polished Chrome can, and it is available at AutoZone.

It is a ball of cotton gauze much like the polyester fiber
you buy from pet stores for aquarium filters.
It is already impregnated with polish, so all you need to do is tear off a wad,
clean the pipe with it, clean off the polish to leave a nice shiny finish...

Wax will not last long on the tips because they do get VERY HOT while driving.
The wax will evaporate from the tips leaving the pipes bare.

[martyo]

^^^I agree with Pete^^^

I love that Nev-R-Dull stuff!

[CRUZTAKER]

The product is Eagle One Never Dull Wadding Polish.
It comes in a polished Chrome can, and it is available at AutoZone.


Good stuff on the tips. Works extremely well.

[Silver_04]

Anyone use the Never Dull stuff under the hood on the AL pieces? Car is getting its annual top to bottom bath/claybar/polish/blah blah blah treatment today and wanted to polish up the metal bits under the hood with this stuff. I'll report back.

[hbarrett]

I use Turtle Wax Chrome Cleaner, and it works OK for me.
Howard
having never had a car where the exhaust looks good i dont really know how to care for the tips.

are they coated with anything like our rims?

should i use anything special to clean them?

whats with that little hole that is in both of them? (about an inch in from the bottom of each)

i've got scuffs on the outer edge how would they get there if the car goes the other way?

also there are little slices that go around the bottom of the edge.

both tips are like this, is this just how they are manufactured or what?

i could take some pics if you'd like

thanks

[cyclone03]

Anyone use the Never Dull stuff under the hood on the AL pieces? Car is getting its annual top to bottom bath/claybar/polish/blah blah blah treatment today and wanted to polish up the metal bits under the hood with this stuff. I'll report back.


DON'T DO IT !!!


The bare aluminum under the hood is not polished,it's bare cast.Rub Never Dull on that stuff and all you'll have is BLACK aluminum!

Even if you have a 2004 the cam covers are not smooth enough to clean with Never-Dull.

[BillyGman]

The product is Eagle One Never Dull Wadding Polish.
It comes in a polished Chrome can, and it is available at AutoZone.

It is a ball of cotton gauze much like the polyester fiber
you buy from pet stores for aquarium filters.
It is already impregnated with polish, so all you need to do is tear off a wad,
clean the pipe with it, clean off the polish to leave a nice shiny finish...



That's what I've been using, and the pipes are coroding!!! I'm not saying that using that product caused the rust spots, but all is I know is that I need to get new ones now. I don't see how they can be stainless steel. And no, I've never used steel wool on them.

[Silver_04]

DON'T DO IT !!!


The bare aluminum under the hood is not polished,it's bare cast.Rub Never Dull on that stuff and all you'll have is BLACK aluminum!

Even if you have a 2004 the cam covers are not smooth enough to clean with Never-Dull.

Gotcha. I just wanted to do the coil covers and valve covers but either way I would have had a mess. Thanks for the heads up.

Now my next question, what can I use under the hood to keep the AL looking good? I have some white flaky areas on the valve covers and coil covers.

[423REED]

having never had a car where the exhaust looks good i dont really know how to care for the tips.

are they coated with anything like our rims?

should i use anything special to clean them?

whats with that little hole that is in both of them? (about an inch in from the bottom of each)

i've got scuffs on the outer edge how would they get there if the car goes the other way?

also there are little slices that go around the bottom of the edge.

both tips are like this, is this just how they are manufactured or what?

i could take some pics if you'd like

thanks
The exhaust tubes/tips are beautifully made, first class, and installed. I've had many compliments about them from co-workers and friends. Its great that Mercury thought enough to install these beautiful, and much more expensive tips on our Marauders. They don't require too much care, but a good cleaning and polishing occasionally will keep them looking brilliant for many years.

When cleaning/polishing stainless steel exhaust tips, the best products I've ever used are "Semi-Chrome" and "Flitz" cleaner polishes. "Semi-Chrome" is made in Germany and originated the formula they use, and held the patent for many years. These are extremely mild polishes that will not ever damage the finish. They're safe for fine jewelry! You can buy them at knive/cutlery stores and at hardware and some automotive parts stores. But you won't find them everywhere.

You just wash the exhaust tips like you wash the rest of your car. Then clean off any tar, etc. Stainless steel exhaust tips always seems attract tiny specks of tar, asphalt, or road debris that sticks to them. Some of these specks come off during the washing of your car with hot water, and others must be cleaned off with bug and tar remover. Then clean/polish the tips with the above mentioned polishes. They will leave an absolutely brilliant finish on the tips! You won't believe it until you see it for yourself. They will shine so brightly in the sun that they'll seem blinding to your eyes. An extra plus is that they also leave a protective film on the tips that does not allow the tar to adhere to the tips. The film doesn't last forever, but its still a nice thing.

These are the products that I used on my old 1987 Mustang GT convertible during detailing, in preparation for the two annual Northern Illinois Shelby Mustang club car shows I entered every year. I won 10 trophies in these shows. Detailing would take me two weeks before each show! Luckily, we do not have much chrome or stainless steel on our Marauders. You can also use these polishes on the front & rear Mercury emblems too.

But, be warned not to use any type of metal cleaner/polish on the 18" Marauder wheels. These wheels, after being forged by ALCOA Aluminum, receive a special polishing process, and then a clear coat paint treatment. So, you don't polish your wheels...you wax them just like the other paint on the body. Good luck.
________________________
2004 MARAUDER 300A - DTR
1994 TAURUS SHO - DK GREEN

[captJ696]

A call to wes chain and a wire welder should do the trick

Guys, call Wes Chain indeed. I spoke to him regarding our exhaust tips and he recommended jewlers polish. I forgot exactly what brand. Sorry I was`nt more help.

[BillyGman]

I'm beginning to wonder if the first Marauders produced in the early 03 production run (the 300 A's) were fitted w/chromed steel tips, and later on in that run they switched to polished stainless steel, because the tips on my car now have tiny rust spots all over them just like the chomed bumpers got on some of the old 60's cars that I had in the past.

[Donny Carlson]

I like to rub a little cocoa butter on them occasionally.

Oh, 'scuse me, your said >tips<

[BillyGman]

Now this is really going downhill..... With that comment,u made me go back and check my spelling.

[BruteForce]

I like to rub a little cocoa butter on them occasionally.

Oh, 'scuse me, your said >tips<

:Offtopic: :lol:

[MENINBLK]

That's what I've been using, and the pipes are coroding!!! I'm not saying that using that product caused the rust spots, but all is I know is that I need to get new ones now. I don't see how they can be stainless steel. And no, I've never used steel wool on them.

Billy,

Try a little Navel Jelly on the rust spots and see if it doesn't help take them off...

[BillyGman]

Billy,

Try a little Navel Jelly on the rust spots and see if it doesn't help take them off...Hmmmm, it can't hurt. I have nothing to lose since the only alternative would be to replace them anyway. Thanks.

.......but wait a minute....I know that naval jelly is for removing paint, but will it remove chrome plating in the event that the tips on the 300A's are chrome plated?

[martyo]

Billy,

Try a little Navel Jelly on the rust spots and see if it doesn't help take them off...

A number of the members here could give you some Navel Jelly. Or, you could just use Naval Jelly which also works well on metal and can be gotten from a hardware store.

[BillyGman]

A number of the members here could give you some Navel Jelly. .

EWE!!!!!!!!!!!

[423REED]

I'm beginning to wonder if the first Marauders produced in the early 03 production run (the 300 A's) were fitted w/chromed steel tips, and later on in that run they switched to polished stainless steel, because the tips on my car now have tiny rust spots all over them just like the chomed bumpers got on some of the old 60's cars that I had in the past.That is very possible. When you chrome plate a metal surface, either decorative chrome (like the tips) or hard chrome. The chrome plating actually sits on the metal surface, and you get microscopic cracking in the chrome surface. It isn't visible to the naked eye, but its there. If you then subject the chrome plating to a harsh chloride solution environment, like salt and water in the wintertime in the midwest and northeast, and then park your car every night in warm environment, like a garage or a heated garage, you could visually see the microscopic rust pitting in the chrome surface. If you Marauder is still under warranty, I'd take it back to the dealer and get the tips replaced with the stainless steels variety. All the Mercury Marauder literature that I've seen shows "stainless steel" tips!

Modern automotive factory exhaust systems use AISI 409 and AISI 409MD (for bending) ferritic stainless steels, which is great for the high temperatures and pretty good for general corrosion. But this grade of stainless steel will show discoloration as time passes. They use this grade to meet the EPA exhaust system longer life requirements. And did I mention that 409 is cheaper.

I believe that the Marauder exhaust tips are made of AISI 304 austenitic stainless steel, which has much more general corrosion resistance than AISI 409/409MD. But the 304 is more expensive. That's what Borla uses in their premium stainless steel exhaust systems.
__________________________
2004 MARAUDER 300A - DTR
1994 TAURUS SHO - DK GREEN

[GordonB]

Cleaning tips:
1. Use paint thinner (oil based) to remove most of the raod junk.
2. Use crome polish (anybody's).
3. Then put 2 coats of good car polish on them

BTW, the tips are SS, NOT crome-plated.

GordonB

[gdmjoe]

FWIW ...

1) As the last step of cleaning the car, wash the tips with your wash-solution. In extreme cases follow-up with mineral spirits ( or your favorite tar / bug remover ). *You did hose 'em off 1st to get the big stuff, right ?

2) After drying, apply Wenol (http://www.wenol.com/) - Auto and Motorcycle Metal Polish ( this one has an ultra-fine grit and surface protection - which I read as some wax / polish / sealant ).
*Since the tips are polished ( rather than satin-finish ) stainless steel do not use just any chrome polish; reason - most have too course of a grit that will leave noticeable ( albethey hair-line ) scratches.

3) Top-off with -insert your favorite wax/polish here-.

*Steps 2-3 aren't necessary every time.

[BillyGman]

BTW, the tips are SS, NOT crome-plated.

GordonBThen why do mine have rust spots all over them? What makes you so certain that some of the early 300 A's didn't originally come with chrome plated ones? After all, stranger things have happened.

BTW, 423REED, thanks for the advice. I might just do that.

[martyo]

Then why do mine have rust spots all over them?


My first set did too Billy. Dunno why though.

[hbarrett]

You might want to try a treatment with Bartender's scouring powder fine abrasive cleaner for SS, or Revere Ware copper and stainless steel cleaner (both are non-chloride). I woudln't normally use these cleaners on my polished tips, but if they were rusting I would. I used these cleaners with 3M scouring pad on my '95 Imp SS just to shine up the plain unpolished SS tailpipe ends. It worked well between washes. Both are fine abrasive powders, and both leave a layer of wax behind. As for the tips on my '04 MM, I use the liquid Turtle Wax Chrome Cleaner once a month, and just the wash soap I use for the car the other times (I wash the car weekly). I know that the '04 specifications of the tips are polished SS, and they may be clear coated as well, but I am not sure about the clearcoat. Bug and Tar Remover then just washing off with car wash soap may work OK with our polished tips as well, but will do nothing for rust. If anyone has the sales brochure for the early '03 MM, it might describe the tips. The '04 brochure and the Merc website clearly describes them as polished SS.
Howard
Then why do mine have rust spots all over them? What makes you so certain that some of the early 300 A's didn't originally come with chrome plated ones? After all, stranger things have happened.

BTW, 423REED, thanks for the advice. I might just do that.

[Captain Steve]

What is Stainless Steel? (http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oi=defmore&q=define:STAINLESS+STEEL)

Billy, I'm just guessing, but you might have gotten tips made from a bad batch of stainless steel. I'm imagining them mixing up a batch of steel w/ the chromium and nickel that make it "stainless" and not mixing it enough. That'd leave you with a mixture of steel and stainless steel instead of a pure alloy.

So.. that could be the source of the rust spots.

Another theory - do you work anywhere near a metal shop that grinds steel? I know my car is parked next door to a huge ironworks and I often get a coating of fine steel dust all over the car when the wind blows the wrong way. :banghead: If the sun heats up my cars wax enough for the rust to settle in, then it could become a huge mess :bigcry:

I imagine that if something similar happened to your car, you might notice it first on your tips, as the chrome color would show it more than the black.

[Donny Carlson]

My first set did too Billy. Dunno why though.
You didn't use cocoa butter.

[martyo]

You didn't use cocoa butter.

No, I didn't. But, the stuff I used gets warm when you blow on it.

[BillyGman]

Another theory - do you work anywhere near a metal shop that grinds steel? I know my car is parked next door to a huge ironworks and I often get a coating of fine steel dust all over the car when the wind blows the wrong way. :banghead: If the sun heats up my cars wax enough for the rust to settle in, then it could become a huge mess :bigcry:

I imagine that if something similar happened to your car, you might notice it first on your tips, as the chrome color would show it more than the black.
Nope, that wouldn't apply to me.

[MarauderMark]

Well i was allways using mothers polish on them but they still seem to change color (from chrome to gold) so they only way to take care of em is to buy new ones..

[423REED]

What is Stainless Steel? (http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oi=defmore&q=define:STAINLESS+STEEL)

Billy, I'm just guessing, but you might have gotten tips made from a bad batch of stainless steel. I'm imagining them mixing up a batch of steel w/ the chromium and nickel that make it "stainless" and not mixing it enough. That'd leave you with a mixture of steel and stainless steel instead of a pure alloy.

So.. that could be the source of the rust spots.

Another theory - do you work anywhere near a metal shop that grinds steel? I know my car is parked next door to a huge ironworks and I often get a coating of fine steel dust all over the car when the wind blows the wrong way. :banghead: If the sun heats up my cars wax enough for the rust to settle in, then it could become a huge mess :bigcry:

I imagine that if something similar happened to your car, you might notice it first on your tips, as the chrome color would show it more than the black.
It wouldn't be from a bad batch of stainless steel. All of the elements in stainless steel are in solution. That is, they're locked into place in the material. The only way you'd be getting pitting is if the tips were produced from an inferior grade of metal, such as ferritic stainless steel, or chrome plated carbon steel. AISI 304 stainless steel wouldn't pit like that in an automotive application like exhaust tips.

Anything is possible, especially at the beginning of production. Or, maybe Megs just slipped in some incorrect material. AISI 409 ferritic stainless steel is made of straight chrome. AISI 304 is made of chrome and nickel in an "18-8" blend. AISI 409 has better high temperature resistance, but 304 has much better general corrosion resistance. AISI 409 tube wouldn't have been just laying around at the beginning of Marauder production. It would have to be produced by a tube mill. As a result, i'd rule out that grade of steel. So maybe Ford or Megs used chrome plated carbon steel until they got in their initial supply of AISI 304 stainless steel tubing.

But, I still say you should take your car back to your dealer and demand that they replace the pitted tips under their factory warranty. You have the right to expect quality materials, and Mercury has advertized the tips as being made from stainless steel since day one!
____________________________
2004 MARAUDER 300A - DTR
1994 TAURUS SHO - DK GREEN

[hbarrett]

Mark,
I have seen your problem and it makes me wonder if the car is running so rich that you are experiencing pyrolysis in the tips and getting them hotter than they are supposed to, discoloring the finish. Just guessing!
Howard
Well i was allways using mothers polish on them but they still seem to change color (from chrome to gold) so they only way to take care of em is to but new ones..

[John F. Russo]

I have a blue marauder and I felt from the beginning that the bright mufflers detracted from the appearance of the wheels. So I took a spray can of black stove high temperature paint and sprayed them black. The paint has been on for more than a year it it still looks acceptable.

This emphasizes the sharp look of the wheel.

[Forenzic]

THAT's a really good idea

[MENINBLK]

Well i was allways using mothers polish on them but they still seem to change color (from chrome to gold) so they only way to take care of em is to but new ones..

The Chrome to GOLD color change is due to the wax burning on the tips when they get hot.
The wax residue left from the polish, burns and turns brown, which looks Gold on Chrome.
Stop using the polish and just clean them with the Eagle One Never Dull.
The Cleaner leaves a polished finish that is water and dust repellent.

[MENINBLK]

I have a blue marauder and I felt from the beginning that the bright mufflers detracted from the appearance of the wheels. So I took a spray can of black stove high temperature paint and sprayed them black. The paint has been on for more than a year it it still looks acceptable.

This emphasizes the sharp look of the wheel.

:twocents: :loco:

I guess I don't see it that way with a Black Marauder.

[Kelsey]

Well I tried using that stuff called Nevr-Dull, and it works great I think. Here is a picture of the results (I used the substance on the right-hand side, didn't use any at all on the left).

http://web.augsburg.edu/~crocketk/rear.jpg

[MENINBLK]

Well I tried using that stuff called Nevr-Dull, and it works great I think. Here is a picture of the results (I used the substance on the right-hand side, didn't use any at all on the left).

http://web.augsburg.edu/~crocketk/rear.jpg

That's all you will ever need...
It will remove all kinds of road grime and tar with a little rubbing,
and will never leave any scratch marks. :up:

[MarauderMark]

The Chrome to GOLD color change is due to the wax burning on the tips when they get hot.
The wax residue left from the polish, burns and turns brown, which looks Gold on Chrome.
Stop using the polish and just clean them with the Eagle One Never Dull.
The Cleaner leaves a polished finish that is water and dust repellent.


Wow I had no idea thats this was the reason but it make perfect sense..Thank you much as it's greatly appreciated...I will go buy it ...:up:

[ckadiddle]

Heck, I didn't know you had to actually take CARE of them... I just use a some of those disposable Windex-type impregnated popup things to clean them a little better after each car wash. Makes 'em shine pretty nicely.

[Krytin]

I usually just tap it out when I'm done... oh, wrong tip!

[04funmerc]

The exhaust tubes/tips are beautifully made, first class, and installed. I've had many compliments about them from co-workers and friends. Its great that Mercury thought enough to install these beautiful, and much more expensive tips on our Marauders. They don't require too much care, but a good cleaning and polishing occasionally will keep them looking brilliant for many years.

When cleaning/polishing stainless steel exhaust tips, the best products I've ever used are "Semi-Chrome" and "Flitz" cleaner polishes. "Semi-Chrome" is made in Germany and originated the formula they use, and held the patent for many years. These are extremely mild polishes that will not ever damage the finish. They're safe for fine jewelry! You can buy them at knive/cutlery stores and at hardware and some automotive parts stores. But you won't find them everywhere.

You just wash the exhaust tips like you wash the rest of your car. Then clean off any tar, etc. Stainless steel exhaust tips always seems attract tiny specks of tar, asphalt, or road debris that sticks to them. Some of these specks come off during the washing of your car with hot water, and others must be cleaned off with bug and tar remover. Then clean/polish the tips with the above mentioned polishes. They will leave an absolutely brilliant finish on the tips! You won't believe it until you see it for yourself. They will shine so brightly in the sun that they'll seem blinding to your eyes. An extra plus is that they also leave a protective film on the tips that does not allow the tar to adhere to the tips. The film doesn't last forever, but its still a nice thing.

These are the products that I used on my old 1987 Mustang GT convertible during detailing, in preparation for the two annual Northern Illinois Shelby Mustang club car shows I entered every year. I won 10 trophies in these shows. Detailing would take me two weeks before each show! Luckily, we do not have much chrome or stainless steel on our Marauders. You can also use these polishes on the front & rear Mercury emblems too.

But, be warned not to use any type of metal cleaner/polish on the 18" Marauder wheels. These wheels, after being forged by ALCOA Aluminum, receive a special polishing process, and then a clear coat paint treatment. So, you don't polish your wheels...you wax them just like the other paint on the body. Good luck.
________________________
2004 MARAUDER 300A - DTR
1994 TAURUS SHO - DK GREEN
MY .02 and I completly agree, Semi- Chrome, I've used it for years on my bikes and chrome stuff. It's a little work, but it is NON-ABRASIVE and really shines after it is buffed, really sparkels in the sun. Almost like a rain-bow.:D

JIM

It also works well on SS and polished alum.

[SergntMac]

The Chrome to GOLD color change is due to the wax burning on the tips when they get hot. The wax residue left from the polish, burns and turns brown, which looks Gold on Chrome. Stop using the polish and just clean them with the Eagle One Never Dull. The Cleaner leaves a polished finish that is water and dust repellent.
Man-oh-man, some mileage on this thread, eh?

Without objecting to your advice, my experience with Never-Dull has been different. IMHO, yes, it's a great cleaner and removes a lot small scratches and stuff, but it leaves it's own residue in place. Though not affected by heat, this residue is a film that collects dirt as the rest of them do. Try a clean piece of Never-Dull on a piece of glass somewhere, and see what gets left behind? What's left is no better than what you're trying to remove, best to wipe the tips with window, or, brake cleaner, or, vinegar after the Never-Dull.

BTW, Never-Dull has been around for years, I bought my first can in 1981 for 2 bucks. Maybe Eagle 1 bought out George Basch, maybe just signed a deal to license the name, what ever, but it's not anything "new." In fact, you may save a buck by buying the original at Ace/True Value? Just bought more last week for 3.89 a can.

Never-Dull is good stuff, but don't use it on MM wheels, or, any painted or clear-coated surface. It IS an abrasive, and it will "polish" right down to bare metal, given enough time and labor. I'm using it to polish engine components, and it's very productive. So, treat it as a cleaner, and wash the tips with your favorite solvent for a truely clean and shinny tip. Stay away from the typical waxes and chrome polish, this will turn color, as it's been noted above. No matter what you use, it still requires elbow grease, no "new" way around that.

Just my .02C...

[423REED]

CRUZTAKER, what kind of wax do you use on StainlessSteel, I didn't know you could wax them,:confused: please share your secret, Thanks.On stainless steel, you can use Never-dull. But I believe that the best cleaner polish is either Semi-Chrome (made in Germany), or Flitz polish. They clean-up any left over tar, etc. They will never harm the high gloss polished finish. When you finish polishing, the tips will have an incredible shine, and it leaves a thin protective film that lasts up to six months to protect your tips. But, whatever you do, do not ever use any metal polish on your wheels. The wheels are not chrome plated, even though they have a beautiful finish. The wheels were specially polished by Alcoa Aluminum after being forged during production. They are forged aluminum wheels, not cast aluminum. Forged wheels are the best quality. They have a clear coating on them, and need to be waxed periodically, just like the body paint. Howevere, waxing the tips may not be a good idea, as hot metal can yellow wax over time. Good luck!
Jim
__________________________
2004 MARAUDER 300A - DTR
1994 TAURUS SHO - DK GREEN

[Skiordie53]

I just tried flitzing mine they didn't come out too good. alot of tar and what looks almost like rust any ideas?

[Jolly Roger]

No Brillo pads.
Bad experience.:(

[jaywish]

Holy Old Thread Batman !

Yes I know it is old but I had to throw this in.

Steel is can be detected with a magnet, Stainless is much less magnetic. The less magnetic it is the less it will rust. It depends on the composition.

I bring this up for those of you who think your pipes are carbon steel. Just try a magnet, you will find out easily.


Scratching a polished stainless surface will make it more likely to rust. I'm a boater and found these things out the hard way.

Jay

[423REED]

First...The exhaust tips on Marauders are made from stainless steel, most likely Type 304. Use your normal carwash soap and hot water to clean them. Then use a tar remover, if needed, to remove any road tar on them (highly likely). Dry them carefully and thoroughly.
*
Second... I recommend using either Semi-Chrome or Flitz polish. They're the best products I've ever used. They not only polish the tips to a brilliant finish. They also leave a thin protective film that protects the tips from getting more tar on them.
*
I've used these products for over 25 years and never had any problems. They are not abrasive, like most products on the market, and were originally marketed to classic car owners. For many years Semi-Chrome (from Germany) held the exclusive patent for this chemical product. I personally think these are the best!
Jim
______________________________ _______________
2004 MARAUDER 300A - DTR BORN 04/19/06
1994 FORD TAURUS SHO - GREEN

[wchain]

If I may chime in again on this topic, I have talked to Craig at Meg's at great length about care and feeding of our Tips. He recommends soap and water, and spot cleaning tar marks. He does not recommend waxes and polishes as its hard to completely remove the polish, then turns yellow.

[Dragcity]

I use Fast Evaporating Lacquer Thinner on Mine. Everything just wipes right off........

[rayjay]

WD40 seems to work best on the baked on tar. Then Flitz metal polish for shine.