Cooler install question

[2ndMDRebel]

I'm having the B&M aux trans cooler installed right now and am wondering if it really matters which way the cooler is mounted line-wise, can it be mounted where the lines come from underneath or do they have to be on top as shown in the instruction sheet diagram, it does not specifically say. Will it affect the flow any?

[fastblackmerc]

I don't think it would affect flow since the oil is being pumped thru it. I mounted mine in series with the stock cooler (it's very substantial). After the oil s cooled by the stock cooler it goes thru the Hayden cooler.

[sweetair]

I'm having the B&M aux trans cooler installed right now and am wondering if it really matters which way the cooler is mounted line-wise, can it be mounted where the lines come from underneath or do they have to be on top as shown in the instruction sheet diagram, it does not specifically say. Will it affect the flow any?I think I understand what you are asking. I have the FORD RACING cooler. It specifically stated that it did not matter if the holes were up or ontheir side. Mine are facing up. It is important where you "cut" into the system, after the OEM cooler, then to the new cooler, then back to the tranny. Good luck.

[2ndMDRebel]

Thanks for the replies! :beer:

We ended up moving the horns and installing the cooler up high where it will get plenty of airflow and have lots of room between it and the condensor/radiator. The lines attach from the bottom as we have it set up with the cooler mounted vertically. After the test drive we racked it again and checked for looseness and leaks but everything was ok. I know this is probably overkill (got the 14.4k btu unit) but the "peace of mind" factor on this mod is what makes it worthwhile to me.

Now I just need a trans temp gauge to see if its working right!

[Krytin]

That's where I installed my B&M cooler but I run to the B&M cooler first then to the OEM cooler. It works fine.

[2ndMDRebel]

Here is a picture of the cooler's location...

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/4/0/8/0/transcooler1.jpg

I have it set up for the fluid coming from the stock cooler on its way back to the trans.

Oh, the battery won't be there much longer, its going in the trunk this week (picked up the relocation kit last night) and I'm moving the air filter/maf up from the lower fender. Hate the lowness and long tube with lots of 90^ turns.

[ROADWARRIORSVT]

2ndMDRebel,
What GVW rating did you go with? I saw the 14 btu rating, just wondering about the GVW rating. Pricision Industries recommends a 24,000 or greater. I'm not familiar with the btu ratings.

[03SILVERSTREAK]

Here is a picture of the cooler's location...

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/4/0/8/0/transcooler1.jpg

I have it set up for the fluid coming from the stock cooler on its way back to the trans.


Thats a good location. I have mine there as well. :up:

[Marauder386]

So where are you going to put the MAF/AF assembly ? Where the battery is now/wont be this weekend ? RoadPig is curious about CrownRauder's plumbing change...

:)

[2ndMDRebel]

2ndMDRebel,
What GVW rating did you go with? I saw the 14 btu rating, just wondering about the GVW rating. Pricision Industries recommends a 24,000 or greater. I'm not familiar with the btu ratings.

Its the 70264 model for 24,000 GVW vehicles so it should do the job.


So where are you going to put the MAF/AF assembly ? Where the battery is now/wont be this weekend ? RoadPig is curious about CrownRauder's plumbing change...

The intake will be moved to where the battery is now. There are a few reasons for this, 1. I have been in several rainstorms that caused some road flooding that put me in "pucker mode" for fear of water ingestion 2. the tube appears to be wearing through at parts where it makes contact with other components and that would cause a lean running condition with unmetered air getting into the system and 3. I want a more direct, shorter intake path.

[ahess77]

What does anybody do about the trans cooler in the winter?
I put in the stacked plate supplimental cooler in series with the OEM cooler and it definately takes longer to get trans temp up in the winter. In fact some days I can't even get to 130F after 10+ minutes of driving. I consider that too cold for trans longevity. I understood that the stacked-plate design should cool the fluid more as the fluid gets hotter (path of least resistance through the parallel paths in the radiator). I expected that it should at least get the fluid up to 160-170.

I'm measuring with an Autometer gauge with the sensor mounted in mainfold in the exiting line from the trans so the fluid temperatures should be maximized. I see 210 to 240 when hammering it in the summer, which seems to be in line with others temps.

I thought about a bypass valve to prevent the fluid from going through at least one of the coolers. Other option would be to cover one of them up.

Has anyone tried either, my solution last winter was just to drive the truck instead.

[warren]

Yes, get a thermal bypass or cover up the new cooler.
The oem one has a bypass built on to it.
You could also run them in parallel ie. oil from the trans.
split into the two coolers but be sure to add the thermal
bypass onto the newer one. They open at 160-180deg.
You can put a oneway valve in the return line so as not to
blow out the new cooler in the winter when flooring it when
the trans is cold. See info. on this on Earl's Performance
Plumbing & Fittings site.
The oem opens at 175deg or so. Just had mine back washed
and it seemed to work better. Had a build up in it. Forsure
need an extra one in the summer.


Warren

[ahess77]

Yes, get a thermal bypass or cover up the new cooler.
The oem one has a bypass built on to it.
You could also run them in parallel ie. oil from the trans.
split into the two coolers but be sure to add the thermal
bypass onto the newer one. They open at 160-180deg.
You can put a oneway valve in the return line so as not to
blow out the new cooler in the winter when flooring it when
the trans is cold. See info. on this on Earl's Performance
Plumbing & Fittings site.
The oem opens at 175deg or so. Just had mine back washed
and it seemed to work better. Had a build up in it. Forsure
need an extra one in the summer.


Warren

So you're saying that the OEM has an actual thermostat built in?

If that's so, then since the coolers are in series, the thermostat should work for both since all the fluid has to flow through both coolers.

Can you tell me where/how the thermostat is built into the OEM unit? Apparently mine is stuck open or is opening way too soon if it's there.

[warren]

Hi,
Two things.
In my above writeup I was wrong the oneway
valve need only be used on an engine oil cooler- checked
Earl's catalog last nite.

Yes our oem cooler has a bypass on it but
if it is cold out and your second cooler is on the
return line from the oem cooler - the oem will bypass and
still sent trans fluid thru your new add on cooler and
make the fluid colder than it needs to be.

Warren