noises from my car..

[the fat bastid]

ok, the first noise is from the rear somewhere. i hear it after the car is sitting for awhile. it sounds kinda like when your breaks start to go. a high pitched but low volume screech that is only there when i'm NOT on the brake. whats up with that?

the 2nd is a woo-wooish noise from the engine that changes when i'm on the gas.
i'm sure its a normal one but just wondering what it is.

edit p.s: while i'm here a different question. how does the e-brake feel for you guys? i'm used to it catching hard and not allowing any movement when in park but when i engage it the car rocks foward like it is not on at all...is that normal or what?

also, whats the point of a e-brake that doesnt engage in drive? isnt that when the emergencys happen? when my master cylinder went in my honda i had just enough reaction time to pull the e-brake....not put the car in park first then hit it. all these little new gadets scare and confuse me :)

[nexstar7]

i told the dealer they forgot to put the e-brake release on . since i only had the car 1 week they put it in. also it engages in drive but not reverse, go figure. i always back out of my drive way

[CRUZTAKER]

Originally posted by the fat bastid
.....also, whats the point of a e-brake that doesnt engage in drive? isnt that when the emergencys happen?

I haven't tried that yet...hmmm. Tomorrow.
Isn't it just a bonafied "parking brake" anyway?


Originally posted by nexstar7
i told the dealer they forgot to put the e-brake release on . since i only had the car 1 week they put it in. also it engages in drive but not reverse, go figure. i always back out of my drive way

"......only had the car 1 week they put it in"

What exactly did THEY put IN. There's nothing missing :confused:

"....engages...."

Uhh, don't you mean DIS-engages? It dis-engages automatically when you shift to drive....

Perhaps it doesn't DIS-engage in R, because of the possibility of some individuals inadvertantly backing into something?

[engine23ccvfd]

yeah I would rather have it stay on when putting into drive but turn off in reverse...

The rear end noise does it come while sitting in gear or park?

[the fat bastid]

while i'm in drive and only while i'm moving. havent checked reverse yet. i'd like to know a little more before bringing it to a dealer and saying 'it makes noise!' then them saying 'its fine, didnt find jack'

[drkknight196]

Yikes! Emergency brakes are not intended to be a substitute for your primary brake system. If you were to engage the ebrake at speed, you're likely going to go into a spin as they only work on the rear wheels. Ebrakes are usually used to help secure the car on inclines and (some manufacturers suggest) to minimize undo pressure on the transmission line while parked.

Now I'm scared! :flamer:

[FordNut]

I would not want the e-brake to stay locked while in drive for the reason of locked rear brakes causing a spin. Since the e-brake does not lock in drive, it can be pressed and used to apply a controlled amount of braking to the rear wheels without locking them up.

[mungce]

This was one of the first things that the guys who purchased in advance, I had my MM in early Aug 92, and it's got the full spare tire w/ unpolishe aluminum rim ( MF to get out). My MM poops when I drive slowly over a speed bump, one rear wheel at a time....I can hear it popping BIG time......BUGS me nutz.....anyone ever figure this thing out ??

mungce
Ft.Worth,Tx

[martyo]

Originally posted by mungce
I had my MM in early Aug 92 ... My MM poops when I drive slowly....

mungce
Ft.Worth,Tx


Those '92's are a rare breed, so you have to put up with some finicky behavior, but "pooping"?????


:lol:

[drkknight196]

Mungce:

Several of us have had the same problem with the rear end noise and to date, no one has figured it out. Dealerships have replaced various rear suspension parts to no avail. One member suggested the problem might stem from a body-on-frame manufacturing defect and this makes sense to me; however, I'm still not sure how to address or fix it.

[mungce]

I took my MM to the shop foreman at MacChurchill Lincoln-Mercury, here in Ft. Worth, and he TOTALLY, DENIES, that the chip is sped limited, that the drive shafts are bad, and hat the gears are too low......... can you believe this guy, and he is the shop foreman with some 27 years with Ford.......B.S. !

mungce
Ft.Worth, Tx.

[Mark McQuaide]

I haven't seen anything in this forum to indicate the drive shafts are "bad". Perhaps if you remove the speed limiter there could be a problem at 120+ speeds, but the drive shaft wasn't designed for that. As for the gears, that's a matter of opinion.

Also, the service staff have people coming at them for warranty repairs all the time, and I think they get a bit defensive when you start talking about this and that being poorly designed or defective. Maybe you're coming at him the wrong way....get more flies with honey and all that...

[SergntMac]

Originally posted by Mark McQuaide
I haven't seen anything in this forum to indicate the drive shafts are "bad". Perhaps if you remove the speed limiter there could be a problem at 120+ speeds, but the drive shaft wasn't designed for that.

You are right on the money here, Mark, and I'd like to see this 411 understood, and not have it open an old argument. We have learned so much about it all since way-back-then. The OEM drive shafts are not "bad," and many here should not be concerned about that. One or two should, let me explain?

Hey y'all, listen up. The aluminum OEM drive shaft is safe and sure for all applications in any N/A "bone stock" MM. You won't have any problems with it whatsoever. Even adding Stage I mods will have no impact on the drive shaft itself, but some LM-ECM "limitations" have been removed, please keep that in mind. Just make sure you "index" your drive shaft before you take it out, for any reason. OEM drive shafts are "production line" balanced, but turn that balance 180 degrees upside down, and you upset everything. Jeeze Louise, you got a real bad hum and vibe going on now, eh? And, that's my point.

Now, if you're nutz enough to try testing the new limits of your MM with Stage I mods, you will be able to achieve 6000 DRIVE SHAFT RPMs. That's 120 MPH in 3rd gear, OD off. With the 4:10 gears, that's easy to see with the Stage I mods, follow me? At this point, you are testing the balance and strength of the OEM shaft, walking a fine line now, K?

If you later decide to build your car into Stage II mods by adding the Stallion Torque converter and underdrive pulleys, you will recover a lot more power that was previously absorbed by native "drive line loss" we all have to live with.

Native drive line power loss has been our "cushion" against causing warranty repair like damage to our MMs. This loss, typically expressed as "20 percent" of our power, is greatly reduced (restored) by the Stallion TC, and underdrive pulleys. Now that new driving limits are available to us, more power is moving through the drive train and the OEM drive shaft can break because of limitations in its own design. Don't push this limitation, replace your drive shaft with one that that can take the brutal punishment of your newly recovered power.

You have a choice between the older CV/PI MMX drive shaft (around 250 bucks), or, the DynaTech drive shaft (around 525 bucks). The MMX is available through FordParts.com peek at our FAQ for more 411. The DynaTech shaft is available through Reinhart, order from him and it will be custom made for your MM and drop shipped direct.

The DynaTech kit offers a new yoke, and new pinion flange, and bulky DANA U-Joints, all balanced through 6000 drive shaft RPMs as one component "kit." No worries over indexing, remembering what came from where. Just bolt it in. Do I sound like a commercial? Sorry, I'll stop. Pick what you want, but an upgrade should be on your mind now, if you find yourself ordering Stage II mods.

With the mods suggested here, there will come a time when you need to consider the power, and its load against the OEM drive shaft. The OEM shaft may prove to be a weak link when it breaks. That will cost you extra dinero when it does, but you're smarter now. Before you summon the power, tighten up the weak link, eh?

We've read too many break reports already.

[the fat bastid]

hey! you forgot the carbon fiber acpt one! i heard it was like 800..but i could be wrong. heh