seized wheels?

[Black_Noise]

well got a flat.....

when i tryed to change it that SOB was seized on, hard

it took a board and a sledgehammer 4 GOOD whacks to get the back driver's tire off, that normal?

they are 2nd set of tires on the car, and i have drag raced and auto x'ed the car this year, is that heat what caused it?

[michael ward]

well got a flat.....

when i tryed to change it that SOB was seized on, hard

it took a board and a sledgehammer 4 GOOD whacks to get the back driver's tire off, that normal?

they are 2nd set of tires on the car, and i have drag raced and auto x'ed the car this year, is that heat what caused it?no its aluminum against steel and moisture rust the steel and bonds the aluminum to the steel so i was told.....

[cyclopsram]

I had to use heat and a portapower hydraulic ram to get the rt front off my Chev Pickup...Vermont Salt...put that never seize on there around the center hole and on the wheel to hub surfaces... Doesn't hurt to annually remove wheels and rotate (left to right on Marauders) and re coat surfaces and retorque to specified value... While you are in there you look at brakes and tie rods ends and so forth....

[Eric91Z]

I had the same problem when I was trying to take the rear wheels off (both sides) to put the winter wheels/tires on. Was very frustrating. And to top it off, the rear wheels (both sides) have been off the car at least a couple times in the last couple months for the rear end rebuild and parking brake adjustment by the dealer.

I did put a little anti-seize on the rotor hat before putting the winter wheels on and will look at doing that in the spring when the stock wheels go back on. Didn't have any problems with the fronts, though. Just the rears.

[Zack]

I antiseized the backs of all my wheels and never had a problem getting them off.

[crouse]

And a little anti-sieze on the threads of the studs and a little around the lug nut seat. This helps with getting consistant torque on each lug as you tighten them.

[fastblackmerc]

To get siezed rear wheels off your MM:

1. Loosen each lug nut no more than 1/2 turn

2. In the street or your driveway power brake the car doing a small burnout (no more than 2-3 seconds)

3. The wheels will now be loose.

To keep your MM wheels from seizing:

1. Remove wheels

2. Clean off the rotor and the corresponding spot on the wheel

3. Put a small amount of anti-sieze on the cleaned surfaces (this is the beveled area on each wheel).

4. Reinstall wheel and lugnuts, torqueing them to 100 ft lb. After about 75 - 100 miles retorque the lugnuts.

I never use anti-sieze on lugnuts. Just keep the threads cleaned with a wire brush.

[ezratty]

when i had a flat tire i discovered how stuck thoes wheels can get. I used a very sophistacated method to remove.

1. Sit your as$ down in front of the tire to be removed

2. Brace yourself with your arms behind your body

3. use one leg and kick the tire with the bottom of your foot, repeat if necessary on other locations aroung the tire.

stupid but it works every time

[RCSignals]

......................
I never use anti-sieze on lugnuts. Just keep the threads cleaned with a wire brush.

Yes, it's best to leave the threads dry.

[crouse]

Why no anti-sieze on the threads and lug nuts?


Yes, it's best to leave the threads dry.

[DeadVic]

one quick burst of WD-40 into each lug nut prior to installation. I do this when detailing the inside of my wheels and it seems to do the trick. Then torque them down. not one problem.

[ckadiddle]

when i had a flat tire i discovered how stuck thoes wheels can get. I used a very sophistacated method to remove.

1. Sit your as$ down in front of the tire to be removed

2. Brace yourself with your arms behind your body

3. use one leg and kick the tire with the bottom of your foot, repeat if necessary on other locations aroung the tire.

stupid but it works every time

That would be the As$-Kicking method, wouldn't it? :lol:

[fastblackmerc]

Why no anti-sieze on the threads and lug nuts?

Found this on some other forums:
"BTW Anti-seize or lube on a lug nut is a very bad idea !!!

Here's why: Bolts or studs provide clamping force by being purposely stretched. Most torque specs bring a bolt well within its elastic limit. Then when loosened they will return to their original length and can be safely reused (Some bolts, including many head bolts, are purposely stretched past their elastic limit, and can not be reused). The torque wrench is the most convenient-but not the most accurate-method of properly stretching automotive bolts. Engineers spend hours correlating the proper bolt stretch to the required turning effort. About 90% of a torque specification is used to overcome friction; only 10% of the specified twisting effort provides clamping force.

It is no surprise then that most lubricant tables recommend a 40-45% reduction of applied torque when using anti-seize on a bolt. So, a lug nut coated with anti-seize should be tightened to a maximum of 49 ft-lbs. Tightening this lug nut to 85 ft-lbs. means it is now over-torqued by 73%! Considering that most torque specs stretch a bolt to within 70% of its elastic limit, over-truing by 73% will easily send the bolt or stud well beyond its elastic limit-and could be dangerously close to its failure point."

[Dragcity]

I don't know.??? I have ALWAYS put anti-seize on all my cars wheel studs.

I have drag raced, street raced, put 150,000 miles on my old Lincoln Town Cars (a '77 and a '90) Never had a problem...

I do use the stuff on my Marauder as well. 85 Foot Pounds on the torque wrench... I do re-torque after 500 miles.....

I guess this is another one for 'Mythbusters'....

[RCSignals]

I guess this is another one for 'Mythbusters'....

It's not a myth. You've been lucky.

Ever wonder why you sometimes come across two torque settings for a bolt, dry and oiled?

[merc406]

RC's right, put whatever you want on the backside of the wheel and inside the wheel lug holes, not the studs themselves.

[fastblackmerc]

[QUOTE=Dragcity;441821]85 Foot Pounds on the torque wrench... I do re-torque after 500 miles.....[QUOTE]

I thought the wheel nut torque was 100 foot pounds?

You should re-torque alloy/aluminium wheels after about 100 miles after you've reinstalled the wheels.

[Dragcity]

I think you may have to consider the highway conditions in certain parts of the country. If I do not apply anti-sieze to the wheel studs, there is a great likelyhood I would not be able to remove the lugnuts without the use of heat or an impact wrench. Not the chance I am willing to take if a tire change is needed in an emergency.

Now, in the South, no big deal. You have to remember I drive in pretty crappy weather 9 months out of each year. Here in Western New York, the amount of salt they use on the roads is absolutely unbelievable. Gotta take that into consideration here.

I once had to change a flat on my '75 LTD, road-side. All the lugnuts were siezed. What a bite that was. Never gonna' happen agian. I have applied it since, and that was 24 years ago...

I will keep pushing my luck with application.

Guess what I'm trying to say is.... we can't apply one theory to everyone, countrywide.

[RUSTY]

The disimilar metal causes the aluminium rim to corrode.The last time i had the wheels of i cleaned up the contact surface and i painted it with some rust paint. The paint wasn't dry when i wanted to put the wheels on ,so i stuck some wax paper to the paint. I had no problem removing the wheels to put on the snows.

[RCSignals]

.......................

I will keep pushing my luck with application.

Guess what I'm trying to say is.... we can't apply one theory to everyone, countrywide.

That's fine, do what you want. Just know it is not a theory, or geographically specific.

[sweetair]

when i had a flat tire i discovered how stuck thoes wheels can get. I used a very sophistacated method to remove.

1. Sit your as$ down in front of the tire to be removed

2. Brace yourself with your arms behind your body

3. use one leg and kick the tire with the bottom of your foot, repeat if necessary on other locations aroung the tire.

stupid but it works every timeThis is the ticket here. It works for me.

[Dragcity]

Just for curiosity sake...

Why not take a poll to find out:

Who uses, and the problems encountered

VS.

Who does NOT use, and the problems encountered.

??????

[Bradley G]

When I had my rear brakes done several months ago, the rear required lots of effort to remove the wheels and hubs.
The rear wheels had been off within six months prior.
I was shocked at how stuck they were, in such a short time!
Flippin salt! :bs: