Tinkering with F.I.T. #20

[DEFYANT]

Seneca came over today. I relocated the IAT to the rubber cupling near the dipstick after the blower. Do not start an argument into IATs please. I changed it because it (sorta) says so in the directions.

That wasn't enough though.

Next we were looking over some of the take-off parts and left overs. In this pile was Senecas old JLT. Holding the heat shield, a dremel and looking at his air cleaner, we came up with this:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Defyant/DCP_2089.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Defyant/DCP_2090.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Defyant/DCP_2091.jpg

Moving on...
The plumbing undernieth was still kinda low (see pic below) and we have a couple of "extra" pipes so up on ramps she went. With some time and zip ties we made the lower plumbing fit tighter to the bottom of the car.

WTFISIT is right! Thats a leaf! :P

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Defyant/DCP_2094.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Defyant/DCP_2092.jpg

With a little tinkering in the tune (not by me!) to get a couple of shifting issues sorted out, she'll be all set. Otherwise this Marauder is a good strong running car.

[Dennis Reinhart]

It's in the right spot as long as it is on the oulet of the SC prior to the TB. I am sure that is the way Gregg has it.

here is where I put mine http://web.iwebcenters.com/reinhartautomotive/images/KLVAA.jpg

[Haggis]

That lower air scoop(heat exchanger), are the Prochargers air-to-air?

[DEFYANT]

That lower air scoop(heat exchanger), are the Prochargers air-to-air?


Yup. You'll see it in person tomorrow. The lower plumbing on the left is much cleaner now.. The right side still hangs abit, but I managed to tighten that up too.

[Peter]

Perhaps I should change my licence to WTF IS IT :)
Looks great, how much was the kit?

[HwyCruiser]

Charlie, putting the IAT in that location will work fine. I think most people put it in the rubber connector between the two up tubes in front of the engine to keep it away from engine soak - just so it's after the intercooler airflow-wise.

Seneca, give Greg's Diablo dealer a call to work out any issues with the shifting. You can do a few things through the handheld like wide-open throttle shift rpms and pressures and part throttle shift pressures, but changing part throttle shift points requires changes in the tune via dealer software. Unless this is a case of spanking off the rev limiter during a 1-2 shift under WOT, then the cure is going to be Nitto drag radials... or a whole lot of temperament.

[DEFYANT]

Charlie, putting the IAT in that location will work fine. I think most people put it in the rubber connector between the two up tubes in front of the engine to keep it away from engine soak - just so it's after the intercooler airflow-wise.

Seneca, give Greg's Diablo dealer a call to work out any issues with the shifting. You can do a few things through the handheld like wide-open throttle shift rpms and pressures and part throttle shift pressures, but changing part throttle shift points requires changes in the tune via dealer software. Unless this is a case of spanking off the rev limiter during a 1-2 shift under WOT, then the cure is going to be Nitto drag radials... or a whole lot of temperament.

I (we - Seneca was here with me) sent Greg a PM with the details. It was nothing major.

Greg is going to check with Procharger for a recommended dyno tuner in this area. I'd really like to see the car tuned on a dyno - no guess work that way. We'd get the shifts right and more out of the blower safely.

[Seneca]

Perhaps I should change my licence to WTF IS IT :)
Looks great, how much was the kit?
P.M. Or call Greg.

Hey Something funny,
I drove over to visit my sister lastnight and i was getting on it just a little bit rpm's right around 4700 and BOOM!! 3 seconds later i loose power steering and, Thats right it wasnt running.. I manage to get from the left lane onto the right shoulder and pop the hood.

As i looked under the front bumper the Intercooled hose had blown off the intercooler Slipped it back on went over all the hose clamps and back on the road! :D.. Then as if thats not enough excitement for one day. On the way home My heater wont work! Hopefully just a fuse. Going out to look at that now. Peace Seneca

[DEFYANT]

Friggin hose clamps! Sorry bud, I must have missed one!

Anyone know how this would affect the heater / AC blower? Or it that a coincidence?

[Joe Walsh]

Friggin hose clamps! Sorry bud, I must have missed one!

Anyone know how this would affect the heater / AC blower? Or it that a coincidence?


I am going to use T-Bolt clamps for all of my piping connections when I do my F.I.T. Procharger install.
They are wider, have a much stronger clamping grip, and no screw slots to cut into the rubber hoses.

My company sells them, and I can buy them at cost.

I just have to figure out all the correct sizes....as the T-Bolt clamps have a smaller useable range than a worm gear/radiator hose clamp.

Besides: Doesn't T-Bolt remind you of a NASTY old school FORD??

[DEFYANT]

I am going to use T-Bolt clamps for all of my piping connections when I do my F.I.T. Procharger install.
They are wider, have a much stronger clamping grip, and no screw slots to cut into the rubber hoses.

My company sells them, and I can buy them at cost.

I just have to figure out all the correct sizes....as the T-Bolt clamps have a smaller useable range than a worm gear/radiator hose clamp.

Besides: Doesn't T-Bolt remind you of a NASTY old school FORD??


Can you bring one to the meet today?

[MarauderTJA]

I am going to use T-Bolt clamps for all of my piping connections when I do my F.I.T. Procharger install.
They are wider, have a much stronger clamping grip, and no screw slots to cut into the rubber hoses.

My company sells them, and I can buy them at cost.

I just have to figure out all the correct sizes....as the T-Bolt clamps have a smaller useable range than a worm gear/radiator hose clamp.

Besides: Doesn't T-Bolt remind you of a NASTY old school FORD??

Joe, when you get the sizes all figured out, if possible I would like to get a complete set from you. I have not had any problems with my clamps as I always check the tightness of them on a regular basis. But I would like to swap over to the T-bolt style. Less chance of lossening as well as they look better. Let me know the cost and I'll get a check out to you.

TOM

[HwyCruiser]

You definitely have to go through the hose clamps a couple of times after the install as everything settles in. I run through mine after every oil change.

The t-bolt clamps are a good idea though. I used them on the silicon elbows I used for my intercooler relocation. Using worm gear hose clamps on silicon is a no-no. Going with silicon elbows and connectors throughout the kit with t-clamps might be a good "mod" and provide a little more bling, although my other stock reinforced rubber connectors and worm-gear clamps are holding up pretty good after over a year.

As far as the heat, is the fan not coming on or just no heat? Maybe the cooling system needs some more burping.

BTW, and I don't know if it's the angle of the pic or not, but the connection at the down tube off the blower looks like it could probably be pushed up a little higher so the back end of the horizontal pipe doesn't hang down so much.

[HwyCruiser]

Attached is a pic of a t-bolt clamp as an example, holding one of my silicon elbows on the intercooler. I bought the extra stuff I needed at www.siliconintakes.com.

The majority of the connections are 3" OD, except for the throttle body transition and the intake pipe. The intake is 3-1/4" OD. The throttle body transition is 3-1/4" OD round to whatever size oval the TB is. Can you use t-bolts on an oval connection?

[snowbird]

Gents,

I also used JDs Silicone seller when i redid the pressurized pipes in aluminum in September. I posted back then the results ("Aluminum era: Fighting hard for reliability"). Excellent products line for the silicone jointing and clamps.

Although it doesn't show on the pics sent, i did my jointing by cutting straight silicone tubing a bit longer and doubled every Tclamp (4 total to make a given joint). All the silicone joining had been done with straight tubing (I think they are stronger than bented joint). The only single Tclamp joint are from the blower and to the throttle body where i encountered room problems.

The joints were also helped by clear coating the aluminum piping to protect their finish, the paint acting to control slip and a bit like low resilience glue. No retighting needed so far.

[teamrope]

I wen to the t-bolt clamps on all but 2 clamps. :)