Steel Buildings / Garages

[Breadfan]

Hey all, we're thinking of putting up a steel-based garage.

The plan is to have a concrete pad poured and then the building delivered. Most likely we would do the assembly of the building.

We're going to go larger than 24x24 most likely, maybe 30x30 or so.

Has anyone done this and can you recommend places to purchase buildings? We're looking for decent quality that can come painted to match the house so it doesn't look like an eyesore on the property. At the same time we're looking for good price.

Has anyone built one? We have access to a crane and a few helping hands.

This is going on my folks land, I live in an apartment and I already asked they won't let me build a garage behind my place. :shake: :D

Before we do anything though we need to find a reputable place to get the structure. Any tips?

BTW in the future, we may add a lift.

[RCSignals]

Do a search. There are some good steel truss buildings

Don't pour a pad until you've decided on the building, so you can place reinforcement and anchors properly.

Go as large as you can afford, and fit in the space you have.

Remember steel buildings can sweat, and drip moisture. you'll have to plan for taking care of that.

[Bluerauder]

Has anyone done this and can you recommend places to purchase buildings? We're looking for decent quality that can come painted to match the house so it doesn't look like an eyesore on the property. At the same time we're looking for good price.
Mike Poore had a very nice 3-4 car garage built. He could provide quality, manufacturer and price info.

My niece and her husband had a 3 car garage built. Can ask her for some info from her if you need a comparison. I know that she did have some issues with the construction, color, etc.

Make sure you know what you are getting into with putting up a large metal building. It can get rather complicated. Also check to see how a self-install will affect any of the warranty provisions if you don't use their "approved" team.

[Haggis]

Mike when I was looking into having my garage built, I also looked at a metal building. After comparing a metal building to a normal wood frame garage, the price was not that much difference and the quality of the wood frame is so much better.

I will get back to you later. Work day over time to go.

[ROB502]

I've had Hoover(30x36) and Blue Ridge(30x30) buildings built. Hoover a little nicer than the other. DON'T get the one on TV with the individual ribs American Steel it is a real POS... My dad got one and it took seven Friends one front loader and a scaffold. :alone:

Just contract some professional company it will be worth the money in the long run. Let them pore the concrete in after it's built thats much stronger.:)

[Mike Poore]

Mike, you and Mark saw my Morton Building when you were up here. It's a pole building, with poured floor, steel sides & roof + insulation on sides and ceiling. You can go fancy or cheap, but it's all the same quality materials on the framing, outside and roof. It was done in a week, and mine, with all the extras was ~30K. There are many colors and combinations to chose from, all guaranteed practly forever. :D

[Breadfan]

Thanks for the updates. Out of curiosity is it possible to do something around 30x30 for 10-15k?

Wood is an option too.

We've talked through the options before, each time we go from something small and simple and keep adding things until it's a huge facility, trying to find that cutoff point between simple and super-nice to serve as a good work area and storage area.

I once got some plans for an airplane hangar I thought that was super cool, nothing like a 100ft wide garage door. :) See, doesn't take me long to think into something too big!

Thanks again for the tips it's hard to filter through the optoins that are out there and this is very helpful.

[Mike Poore]

Adding a couple of feet(s) here or there, to include door height, doesn't make a large difference in price, actually. It's the steel inside walls, ceiling, insulation and number of doors and windows that add up ...fast.

I'd say, if you are thinking 34 X 30, which would give you three doors, and stick with a gravel floor, and no interior siding, and open roof, you could prolly do it for most of the $15K, depending upon how flat the place you're going to do the construction. Also, remember, excavation can become expensive if there's lots of dirt to move.

[GreekGod]

...yes, I'm an expert, because I've made many mistakes. I will list a few rules:

1) YOU ARE LIMITED BY ZONING! You can't just build what you want. You must have blueprints that get approved by your building inspection department. Any non-conforming build requires going through the Zoning Board of Appeals. 768 sq ft is maximum square footage in my city!

2) always have a concrete floor with visqueen (plastic) laid down before the pour. You would be amazed by how dry it helps keep the floor/interior. A "rat wall" 8" tall curb exterior of the slab should be included.

3) a wood frame building with a painted ribbed steel roof is probably best, then comes a pole barn/building, and last choice is a steel building. Exterior with vinyl siding can look as good as any house.

4) your side walls should be as tall as you are allowed. If installing a lift, 12 foot side walls would be a minimum, with 14 foot preferred. The overhead door should be 8 feet tall, or taller with the the higher sidewalls.

5) if you want to work on cars/trucks you need a wide and deep work space. Think of having both doors open, with benches/toolboxes on both sides, with room to wheel around a floor jack. Probably 24 feet wide and 24 feet deep, per stall.

6) I like an upper storage area. You need trusses rated for storage, and insulation/ventilation (energy trusses).

7) double pane windows are cheap. 4' wide X 3' tall are best for a garage.

8) always insulate with fiberglass and have a contracter install drywall (walls and ceiling). Drywall is a great fire resistant value.

I could go on, but those are the main concerns that come to mind.

[KillJoy]

A co-worker just had a 40x30 built.

They built the building first, then poured the concrete.

Not sure if this is the norm....but it is what the builder recommended.

KillJoy

[KillJoy]

Oh yeah.....LOFT!!!

KillJoy

[Mike Poore]

A co-worker just had a 40x30 built.

They built the building first, then poured the concrete.

Not sure if this is the norm....but it is what the builder recommended.

KillJoy

That's the way they do Morton Buildings.

BTW, listen to what GreekGod is saying, my building is not tall enough for my lift, and making the building taller would have cost very little more.

[merc]

Way to go Mike, you rocked on American idol tonight. PS: I love the new hair style.

[Mike Poore]

Way to go Mike, you rocked on American idol tonight. PS: I love the new hair style.

Wait.....HUH! What'd I miss? I won something ....finally? It was me, really? :woohoo:

What'd they do to my hair? :beatnik:

[Breadfan]

Wow this is some great info here. :) I'm learning a lot thusfar.

Thanks for all the tips thusfar!

[Haggis]

Also if you want to put in a lift, two post, not only does your ceiling be high enough...but, make sure your floor is the correct depth and psi strength. Most two post lifts require at least 4" thickness with 3000psi.

The contractor who did my floor made it 6" thick with a 3500psi.

[Breadfan]

Ah, thanks Gordon, those were the numbers I was looking for. Yes we'll want to make sure it can support even if we don't do the lift right away.

[Haggis]

Ah, thanks Gordon, those were the numbers I was looking for. Yes we'll want to make sure it can support even if we don't do the lift right away.

If you go to a lift web site they should list the requirements for the floor. Also I here that NA*A does sales and install of lifts, check your local store. The lifts also require 30amps and and 220 volts hardwired.

[GreekGod]

A minimum 60 amp buried electrical service will allow for an air compressor, a lift, air conditioning (with insulated walls/ceiling) welder, etc.

I recommended an 8' tall overhead door. Standard single stall doors are 7' tall x 9' wide. A 8' x 9' gives extra clearance for 4x4's and tall (handicap) vans. I prefer single doors to the 16' wide double. The 16' wide headers can sag if not done correctly. Door openers are easy to do yourself. Have the openings prepped by the framers, where you think you may want any.

Standard service/entry doors are 3' wide. Sometimes you will want to get a mower, motorcycle, or engine on a stand, into or out of the building without using the overhead door. Consider adding an 7' x 8' overhead door to a side wall. Easy access/egress, plus excellent (think wind tunnel) cross-flow ventilation with two doors open.

Vinyl double pane windows are the way to go.

An inexpensive wall storage system can be made with 4' x 8' white (prefinished) perforated hardboard (aka pegboard). Screw (not nail) 8' horizontal furring strips into the studs, starting at a 4' height, and then screw the pegboard, horizontally onto the furring strips.

[Mike Poore]

Also if you want to put in a lift, two post, not only does your ceiling be high enough...but, make sure your floor is the correct depth and psi strength. Most two post lifts require at least 4" thickness with 3000psi.

The contractor who did my floor made it 6" thick with a 3500psi.

I decided on a 4 post, Mike, for various reasons. Why don't you and Mark come up for a visit, again and take a look see. Now that you're collecting data, you can avoid the mistakes I made, but will correct on garage #2.

That's gonna give me 12 bays total. I may move the lift to the new garage, or get another one. Frankly, I think the 4 post lifts have definite advantages, mostly because you will be using it for detailing much more than for mechanical work. Also the tool trays allow for using narrow tracks for mower, motorcycle, and ATV maintenance. Never mind the convenience of stacking/storing your cars, two high.

PS, you'll like the cool dollies under the fastback's wheels, for pushing it about in the garage.