Tranny mod impressions

[Svashtar]

I'm throwing this out there for comment. I mentioned something a few weeks ago on another thread.

Got my Level II mod installed, along with the PI 3000, and love it when going WOT or jumping on it at higher speeds, but from 0-40 I'm not really sure if I care for the change! (Heresy I know.)

I know for a fact that the tranny is stronger than ever, and running cooler, and maybe I've just forgotton the tranny weaknesses I encountered even with the SCT Tune from Dennis, but what bugs me is that the car always feels like it's driving in second gear with the OD off! It's all SOTP, but I swear the engine is working harder at lower speeds to get the car up to speed, even though the performance is improved. Makes no sense I know...

Anyone else have any impressions? If I put my foot into it more I doubt I would feel this way, but I tend to be very light on the throttle at lower speeds...

BTW, I distinctly remember being able to just push the gear selector from Drive into neutral before, but now it won't budge, which is nice. Everything stays firm and locked.

FINALLY, another duma$$ question I guess: when I go WOT and get that super kick in the rear on the shifts, is that doing any damage at all to the car? With the increased line pressures it _really_ hits the shifts hard (I even chirped the new tires on the shift into second the other day.) It's fun as hell, but I don't want to hose anything.

Thanks as always for humoring me... :rolleyes:

Norm

[Power Surge]

What you're feeling is from the converter. Your car basically "slips" until you reach about 3000 rpms, or the converter locks up, whichever happens first. When accellerating from a stop during normal driving, the car will feel more sluggish until you reach either of those two points.

It would also be a good idea to put in a nice big trans cooler, as you're also creating a lot more fluid heat from the stall converter.

[Glenn]

The PI 3000 is for street racing and the strip not to enhance normal street driving. Your expectations are too high for what your installed. The TC is specifically for reducing your 1/4 mile times by at least 0.5 sec or more. Enjoy what it is designed to do - GO Fast!!!

Glenn

[Svashtar]

The PI 3000 is for street racing and the strip not to enhance normal street driving. Your expectations are too high for what your installed. The TC is specifically for reducing your 1/4 mile times by at least 0.5 sec or more. Enjoy what it is designed to do - GO Fast!!!

Glenn

Glenn, will do! That makes sense. Nothing is for free and there is always a trade off. I just wanted to make sure that what I was feeling was "normal" I guess.

Now the best parts of my commute are getting on and off the freeway. It really is a rocket now, I just hate to get stuck in bumper to bumper traffic anymore...!

And Sal, thanks for the suggestion on the trans cooler. I'm not sure if I need it or not, but plan on checking with Dennis. I have the finned deep art carr pan and my tranny temp guage starts at 150 and has never exceeded 165 as far as I know. Things stay nice and cool, and I don't tow anything. Still, I appreciate the advice.

Norm

[magindat]

to the house of fun. I have the same setup as you. You will need to re-learn how to drive your car. Pretend you are driving a stick shift and the clutch is slipping. Only difference is now you control the slippage with your RIGHT foot and not your LEFT. More RIGHT foot, less slippage.

The hard shifts are better for the transmission. When the trans shifts slowly, the internal clutches are slipping. In the Level II, they dont slip. They apply and un-apply very quickly. The hard shift actually make the trans last LONGER.

Enjoy my friend. Soon you may learn to adjust your own shift points and lockups on Extreme Tune and then you'll REALLY have a ball!

And Sal's right, the only wear will now come from heat buildup in the converter. Mine is running fine and has for about 7k miles and the temps are normal (190ish). I did, however order a cooler that's on it's way.

[jim geary]

Norm, try a few rolling starts. 5 to 10 mph and stand on it. It should grab just fine. I'm s/c'd though so I have a tendency to go sideways. I love it.
Just have fun.

[ahess77]

The hard shifts are better for the transmission. When the trans shifts slowly, the internal clutches are slipping. In the Level II, they dont slip. They apply and un-apply very quickly. The hard shift actually make the trans last LONGER.

And Sal's right, the only wear will now come from heat buildup in the converter. Mine is running fine and has for about 7k miles and the temps are normal (190ish). I did, however order a cooler that's on it's way.

I agree that the hard shifts are better for the trans, but what I've found in 60k miles of the Jerry Barns improvements on a 99 crown vic is that it does add wear to the rear end. I know the '99 CV rear end isn't as "durable" as the Marauder, but's the '99 is now whining like a little girl (it's old too with over 200k miles now)

I have the same PI TC & Level II on my Marauder and I decided to use a rear axle girdle with the 4:10s. I expect a little more wear on the rear gear & bearings & everything else relative to the increased load, but it's the trade-off for the improvements I wanted (there's no free lunch). I don't think it's too much for the 8.8" rear end, but if you want your Marauder to last forever you should drive it like a little old lady.

[magindat]

but if you want your Marauder to last forever you should drive it like a little old lady.

Um... No. :nono: Thank you.

The rear does take a bit more of a beating, but such a beating should take a LONG TIME to show harm to an 8.8!

[Svashtar]

Thanks a lot guys. It all makes good sense. I'm glad I don't have to baby it.

I didn't have the soft axle problem, but did have a rear wheel bearing go bad a while back so they replaced the RR axle under warranty. I had to copy the TA performance stud & girdle install sheet for the dealership because the guy wasn't reinstalling it properly.

Anyway, in 36K miles I've had the diff oil changed twice over (with friction modifier added) and have the 4:10 gears and stud & girdle kit. I think I'm pretty strong back there.

The car hits so hard now it's a blast to drive hard, and I'm glad to hear those hard shifts are no problem.

I have a 9100 with DR tune so can't adjust anyshift points as far as I know (and wouldn't know how to regardless) but I'm happy with the way it's set up now. I'm surprised how cool the tranny runs now.

Thanks again.

Norm

[Drock96Marquis]

I know the '99 CV rear end isn't as "durable" as the Marauder
They are virtually the same, the Marauder's rear axle is not more durable.





FINALLY, another duma$$ question I guess: when I go WOT and get that super kick in the rear on the shifts, is that doing any damage at all to the car? With the increased line pressures it _really_ hits the shifts hard (I even chirped the new tires on the shift into second the other day.) It's fun as hell, but I don't want to hose anything.
Will wear out U-joints (and tires) a little quicker :biggrin: