View Full Version : MOD MOTOR 5.0L Forged Long Block Rebuild PaCammer/Loco1234
Loco1234
04-17-2007, 11:08 AM
Here's is a link to the Albumn I have started that contains over 150 pix.
This will show many shots of the motor as we are assembling it...
http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/Engine/
Hope everyone enjoys it..
I have a couple of questions I will post soon....
One of which is about the water-water oil cooler as shown in the pix.
Not sure where I'm gonna tap the supply and return water connections for it.
I sure hope you are not using that timing cover with this project. Hopefully the last few pics were of a 98 Cobra cover.
Also, Get rid of the EGR and weld shut the coolant lines that run from the crossover to the intake and the one in the back of the engine.
They are pointless, take up space and HEAT up the intake. Hardly makes sense to be there on a blower car.
And take that pulley off the alternator and replace it with a non-clutched model.
And DONT run a Reichard Anti-Slip pulley, it will shred your belts.
AND have fun finding an oil filter.
Makes no sense to increase the capacity of the pan and reduce the size of the oil filter by almost half.
Loco1234
04-17-2007, 02:06 PM
thnx I'll have Sr. (PaCammer) give u a call soon....
RCSignals
04-17-2007, 02:37 PM
that adapter looks different from what comes on the CVPIs. Is the CVPI style engine oil cooler what you are trying to use?
GreekGod
04-17-2007, 04:37 PM
Are the main caps steel? Couldn't tell from pics...
FordNut
04-17-2007, 07:36 PM
The oil cooler is for a Cobra or a van. It is different from the CV. The CV adapter has oil lines which connect to the remote cooler which is connected to the radiator hose. This type oil cooler has water connections and the oil is cooled at the filter adapter instead of in a remote cooler. This adapter will move the oil filter out closer to the frame so it may not fit and will need a remote oil filter.
Loco1234
04-17-2007, 08:32 PM
The oil cooler is for a Cobra or a van. It is different from the CV. The CV adapter has oil lines which connect to the remote cooler which is connected to the radiator hose. This type oil cooler has water connections and the oil is cooled at the filter adapter instead of in a remote cooler. This adapter will move the oil filter out closer to the frame so it may not fit and will need a remote oil filter.
Very observate "Fordnut". It does cool soley withing the adapter itself...
The lines are for supply and return of the water used for cooling... It is however not from a mustang though... It is believe it or not from a candian Escape. Those models came with these coolers... of course they had far more room to fit oil filter and not interfere with the frame...
I currently already have a remote oil cooler remoted mounted w/ radiator. I intend to use this oil cooler in conjuntion with the remote mounted one... I am not yet sure weather it will fit yet but will know shortly during fitment of the engine into the vehicle.
What I need to figure out (if it does fit) is where should I connect the supply and return water lines for the adapter oil cooler...?
Any suggestions?
FordNut
04-17-2007, 08:48 PM
Hmmm... good question.
One idea you might consider is to get a thermostat housing from a Mk VIII. It has a heater hose nipple on the bottom half. But where to connect the other line ?
Marauderjack
04-18-2007, 03:58 AM
Brian,
I know it is nice to have additional oil cooling for "BIG" engines but with today's synthetics is it really necessary for a "Street" car??:confused:
I have heard and saw it happen with my car....when you add additional coolers.....remotes....more lines.....you lose oil pressure!!:eek: In my case about 5 PSI with the remote only. :cool:
Would it be possible to "Over Cool" the oil?? Not good according to what I've read??:confused:
All of this seems to be not only an engineering headache but expensive as well!!:eek:
My $.02....FWIW?? :beer:
Marauderjack:burnout:
Loco1234
04-18-2007, 05:41 AM
Brian,
I know it is nice to have additional oil cooling for "BIG" engines but with today's synthetics is it really necessary for a "Street" car??:confused:
I have heard and saw it happen with my car....when you add additional coolers.....remotes....more lines.....you lose oil pressure!!:eek: In my case about 5 PSI with the remote only. :cool:
Would it be possible to "Over Cool" the oil?? Not good according to what I've read??:confused:
All of this seems to be not only an engineering headache but expensive as well!!:eek:
My $.02....FWIW?? :beer:
Marauderjack:burnout:
I see you point...
I already have the romote oil cooler and my oil psi is still fine..
This cooler in question simply adds just a slight increase in oil capacity and resistance. Im not convinced it would have a huge detrimental effect on my oil osi. although if I was unablr to mount the filter in the normal location and had to look into remote mounting the filter for fitment I would probably scrap idead altogether. That would obviously add alot moore line and resistance.
Thanx for keeping me thinking though...
Loco1234
04-18-2007, 05:49 AM
If anyone else has any thoughts or comments pleaz don't hesitate to make them...
I wanna build this motor once and build it right...so please feel free to speak up..
I will not take offense...
FordNut
04-18-2007, 06:09 AM
Brian,
I know it is nice to have additional oil cooling for "BIG" engines but with today's synthetics is it really necessary for a "Street" car??:confused:
I have heard and saw it happen with my car....when you add additional coolers.....remotes....more lines.....you lose oil pressure!!:eek: In my case about 5 PSI with the remote only. :cool:
Would it be possible to "Over Cool" the oil?? Not good according to what I've read??:confused:
All of this seems to be not only an engineering headache but expensive as well!!:eek:
My $.02....FWIW?? :beer:
Marauderjack:burnout:
I have been running the CVPI oil cooler and the SVO remote oil filter for years. No problems.
The oil-water oil coolers can't over-cool the oil, as the coldest it will possibly get is the coolant temperature.
IMO the remote oil filter is much better than the factory setup where you can't remove the filter without making a big mess.
Loco1234
04-18-2007, 09:45 AM
I was wondering where you got the fitting for the passenger side of the crossover tube, so that the temp sensor is out of the way... I moved my sensor completely to get it out of the way of the supercharger, but I don't like how it looks now, I like that simple fitting much better.
AJ
The man you should ask abot that is "ZACK".
He put on my first supercharger... the (S-trim)
when he installed that he did alot of little things that make the install both easier but also much cleaner looking...
I believe this is one of his mods...which was done during the first super install...
Loco1234
04-18-2007, 09:50 AM
Are the main caps steel? Couldn't tell from pics...
yes the main caps are steel...
they are standard 6bolt steel main caps..
w/ a forged 8-bolt crank
Oliver Racing Rods
Diamond Pistons & Rings
VT 4340 Steel Stroker Crankshaft
Billet Oil pump Gears
High Volume Oil Pump
ARP Main and Head Studs
60 lb/hr fuel injectors
(2) GT-40 Fuel pump with AN8 fuel lines from tank to the rails...
and finally a T-trim Vortec
The man you should ask abot that is "ZACK".
He put on my first supercharger... the (S-trim)
when he installed that he did alot of little things that make the install both easier but also much cleaner looking...
I believe this is one of his mods...which was done during the first super install...
All it is is a 90 degree NPT Brass fitting at any Hardware store in the plumbing aisle.
GreekGod
04-18-2007, 10:49 AM
...mucho good advice so far. You haven't stated your goals or purpose with this build, so an (additional?) oil cooler is probably not needed. Depends if you are travelling 1/4 mile WOT per trip, or 140 miles @ 140 mph WOT.
Perhaps an Accusump (?) to precharge the oil system before startup?
The large SVO remote oil filter mount uses the huge Ford truck Diesel filter, available from the World's greatest marketer, Walmark.
M-6880-S:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/1/9/0/SVOremote.jpg
As you know, I'm sure, the Oliver rods and Diamond pistons are top-shelf. Your short block should be excellent with the parts you chose.
Loco1234
04-18-2007, 04:31 PM
...mucho good advice so far. You haven't stated your goals or purpose with this build, so an (additional?) oil cooler is probably not needed. Depends if you are travelling 1/4 mile WOT per trip, or 140 miles @ 140 mph WOT.
Perhaps an Accusump (?) to precharge the oil system before startup?
The large SVO remote oil filter mount uses the huge Ford truck Diesel filter, available from the World's greatest marketer, Walmark.
M-6880-S:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/1/9/0/SVOremote.jpg
As you know, I'm sure, the Oliver rods and Diamond pistons are top-shelf. Your short block should be excellent with the parts you chose.
The vehicle has been a daily driver and is taken twice a year to run on Pocono International Speedway....
so it has dual purpose...
last year when it ran on Pocono it was running arond the track with ferrari's, covettes, lambo's etc... it really put them all to shame consider the money they spent on their vehicles...
It was really funny cuz they were busting balls hard till we hit the track and not only passed them on the straights but also handled awesome when we did the infield turns.... (they called it a fancy taxi cab) shut them up quick
I have done a few suspension mods including sway bars, controls arms, and now a watts link....
GreekGod
04-18-2007, 04:41 PM
The vehicle has been a daily driver and is taken twice a year to run on Pocono International Speedway....
so it has dual purpose...
last year when it ran on Pocono it was running arond the track with ferrari's, covettes, lambo's etc... it really put them all to shame consider the money they spent on their vehicles...
It was really funny cuz they were busting balls hard till we hit the track and not only passed them on the straights but also handled awesome when we did the infield turns.... (they called it a fancy taxi cab) shut them up quick
I have done a few suspension mods including sway bars, controls arms, and now a watts link....
Try to be nice to those 'Vette owners ;) . You might "drive" them cuhRaYZeee if your 2 ton 4 door sports car can out perform GM's finest! I would love to see you in action against them. Is it an all-out time trial type of thing?
Loco1234
04-19-2007, 07:21 AM
Try to be nice to those 'Vette owners ;) . You might "drive" them cuhRaYZeee if your 2 ton 4 door sports car can out perform GM's finest! I would love to see you in action against them. Is it an all-out time trial type of thing?
No... its likr 10-20 cars on track at once...
NO rubbing allowed... if you squirrely you have to back off... etc...
so it's really funny when you just past their buddy on the last straight and now you crawling up their ass on the infield turns...(where they figured you'd never handle at those speeds...) and then hit the front straight and its an all out brawl as to who's got the power to make it to turn 1 first...
I ussualy run my Detomaso pantera in the event but this last year it was down while i rebuild it so I entered the marauder.. (for fun)
It impressed the hell out of me... too
MENINBLK
04-19-2007, 10:31 PM
You really need to clean up that Alternator...
Loco1234
04-20-2007, 05:33 AM
You really need to clean up that Alternator...
ya I know... it's soooo center and top center to the engine...lol
Im wanted to hear the final result of PaCammer's (Sr.'s) convo with Zack via a phone call...
mainly cuz I stuck with this alternator with the clutch because I thaught he told me once earlier to do so...
hence atfter dryfitting I planned to take apart the alternator and then powder coat the casing and such juist like everything else I powder coated.
but if the non clutched alternatoor is the better way to go Im gonna look into getting a powermaster (chrome) model... that should look nice up there....
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