MAF cleaning...Best ''mod''!

[OneBADLsE]

:cool4: Just recently cleaned my MAF sensor. Holy hell whatta difference!!!! However to my untrained eye, the MAF didnt look like it needed to be cleaned. So, i decided it was worth a shot to take some compressed air to it and see what became of it.

Results - MORE Torque. More MPG (2-3+). No more sloppy 1-2 WOT Shifts. No more torque lockup at unreasonable times.

Cleaned also the air filter. Drives like the day i got it!!! :beer:

Just a short little test i did too, tonight it was slightly damp out. With these new tires i found it hard to break'em loose on wet or misty pavment. Right after the 'squeeze' WOT 1-2 shift (not just punching it), I noticed the tires broke loose at around 55 holding WOT. Needless to say i was very impressed.

[Raudermaster]

You should use real MAF cleaner and come talk after. When I cleaned mine I noticed some lost power that had been hidden by the dirty MAF.

[BUCKWHEAT]

Raudermaster, please also explain how to use the MAF spray product. This could help several of us tackle the job. Thanks.

[Blackened300a]

Raudermaster, please also explain how to use the MAF spray product. This could help several of us tackle the job. Thanks.

^^^What he said^^^

[Raudermaster]

It's quite easy. I bought a "intake tube/throttle body" cleaner and I asked if it would be ok to use, and people responded and said just to get the CRC MAF cleaner designed specifically for a MAF. None of my local auto stores even heard of it, so I had my speedshop order me a couple of cans. Not bad since I paid $5 per can. All you have to do is disconnect the MAF from the tube and filter so you can hold it in your hands. While you're at it, clean your air filter too. Spray the entire inside of the MAF. The can states to spray it 10-15 times to get everything clean. I did it about 18 times just to make sure. Once I sprayed the inside, I stood it up and let it dry before you re-install it. Also I forgot to mention disconnect the negative side battery terminal for about 10-15 minutes to reset the PCM. Re-install the MAF, and air filter, put the terminal back on, and go let her rip!

[KillJoy]

I wonder if the Cleaning was the catalist, or the Battery Reset???

Just a thought.....

KillJoy

[ctrlraven]

CRC MAF or CRC Electronic Cleaner will work. You will be able to find he CRC Electronic Cleaner wherever CRC products are sold. I cleaned mine and noticed 1-2 more mpgs even with it starting to get hot out and find myself using the a/c more. I clean mine every 6 months or 10K miles.

[larryo340]

:cool4: Just recently cleaned my MAF sensor. Holy hell whatta difference!!!! However to my untrained eye, the MAF didnt look like it needed to be cleaned. So, i decided it was worth a shot to take some compressed air to it and see what became of it.

Results - MORE Torque. More MPG (2-3+). No more sloppy 1-2 WOT Shifts. No more torque lockup at unreasonable times.

Cleaned also the air filter. Drives like the day i got it!!! :beer:

Just a short little test i did too, tonight it was slightly damp out. With these new tires i found it hard to break'em loose on wet or misty pavment. Right after the 'squeeze' WOT 1-2 shift (not just punching it), I noticed the tires broke loose at around 55 holding WOT. Needless to say i was very impressed.
do you run a K&N air filter?

[rvaldez1]

I wonder if the Cleaning was the catalist, or the Battery Reset???

Just a thought.....

KillJoy

A very good one, can be a mix of both.

[Pat]

Used the CRC MAF cleaning product as directed and outlined above.

Pat

[OneBADLsE]

do you run a K&N air filter?

Nope, regular motocrap air filter :P

i have to buy a drop in for it later this week (K&N)

[Raudermaster]

Don't even bother. There was a write up a while back on CVN that paper filters netted more HP than a panel K&N filter on a Panther.

[OneBADLsE]

Don't even bother. There was a write up a while back on CVN that paper filters netted more HP than a panel K&N filter on a Panther.


interesting? Link please?

[Raudermaster]

I'll see if I can find it.

[Paul]

Cleaned mine with the CRC MAF cleaner yesterday (has 72K miles). Think it's running better, but not sure yet. My local Advance Auto Parts store had six cans on the shelf, easy to find here.

Watch out for sand particles collected around MAF when you lift off - best to have a shop vac nearby to suck it out. I found the Torx security bits (a/k/a tamper proof bits) at local electronics surplus shop so I wouldn' t have to take the full intake tube apart.

[RF Overlord]

You don't need to "take anything apart"...just pull off the airbox cover with the clips, and undo the clamp holding the intake tract using a 5/16" socket or a flat-blade screwdriver.

You don't need to spray the CRC cleaner onto the MAF 10-15 times...unless it's really obviously and grossly dirty. Just hit it a few times and let it air-dry, re-install, and you're good to go.

To answer the question concerning whether the gain is from the cleaning or the battery disconnection, the answer is: either/both. If the MAF is dirty, then cleaning it will help, and disconnecting the battery will force the PCM to re-learn the idle trim etc...

[MENINBLK]

I don't know why you guys insist on buying this expensive stuff.
All you need to do is visit your neighborhood Radio Shack and ask for this...
Precision Electronics Cleaner (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102649&cp=&sr=1&origkw=64-4345&kw=64-4345&parentPage=search)

Take the brush off the can.
Spray liberally on the MAF components and let air dry.

[Zack]

Brake cleaner re-labeled.

Im gonna do this with brake cleaner tomorrow and Ill share the results.

[DEFYANT]

Brake cleaner re-labeled.

Im gonna do this with brake cleaner tomorrow and Ill share the results.


Let us know if there is any damage to the plastic parts. I just checked a CRC can of Brake - Parts cleaner (red label) and it says "Do not use on plastics".

[Zack]

Let us know if there is any damage to the plastic parts. I just checked a CRC can of Brake - Parts cleaner (red label) and it says "Do not use on plastics".

Ill be sure to spray it on the sensor, the part that needs cleaning. :stupid:

[Shora]

Ill be sure to spray it on the sensor, the part that needs cleaning. :stupid:

I am not sure if I believe that the brake cleaner will damage the plastic but there is NO WAY to spray the sensor without touching plastic.

[DEFYANT]

Ill be sure to spray it on the sensor, the part that needs cleaning. :stupid:

:shake:

Brake parts cleaner = use on brakes

MAF cleaner = use on MAF

Good luck getting the contents of a pressurized can of brake cleaner on "the parts that need cleaning". :rolleyes:

I suppose you can disassemble the MAF, then spray the brake cleaner into a cup and then dunk the delicate sensor wire into the cleaner - sure....

Or you can just use the right stuff first and be done in 5 minutes.


Let us know how it goes. :popcorn:

[Raudermaster]

I don't know why you guys insist on buying this expensive stuff.
All you need to do is visit your neighborhood Radio Shack and ask for this...
Precision Electronics Cleaner (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102649&cp=&sr=1&origkw=64-4345&kw=64-4345&parentPage=search)

Take the brush off the can.
Spray liberally on the MAF components and let air dry.

I don't know about you, but the Radio Shack's around here are nothing but rip off's. That can at my store in my town cost more than the CRC stuff did. Not to mention the CRC MAF cleaner IS cheaper than that.

[Shora]

...Deleted

[rayjay]

Brake cleaner re-labeled.

Im gonna do this with brake cleaner tomorrow and Ill share the results.

NOTE: huffing brake fluid will ROT your brain.

[SpruceGreen'03]

www.bobistheoilguy.com (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com) has some interesting stuff posted about the K&N oiled filters. I personally stay away from them, and just use a paper filter.

The MAF sensor on my T-Bird was so dirty one time, that it was the color of a Hersey bar.

My own personal experience has led me to conclude that you should only use one of two things to clean the MAF sensor;

1. Electronic contact spray cleaner
2. MAF Sensor spray cleaner (any guesses what it really is? see #1)

I do not recommended the Q-tip method, since you could damage the tiny sampling wires.

[Marauder.45]

Disconnecting the battery for letting the PCM relearn won't be affected with aftermarket tune?

[DEFYANT]

Disconnecting the battery for letting the PCM relearn won't be affected with aftermarket tune?



Nope.


.........

[Raudermaster]

Yea, the tune will always be there unless you reflash the PCM.

[Zack]

I changed the oil in my DD today with 10w-30 and Slick 50 in the hopes of getting rid up a cold start rattle. (E-bay motor)
I also pulled the MAF element and sprayed it with brake cleaner, exercising no caution in avoiding the plastic. The plastic is 100% Impervious to the brake cleaner, dont worry about ruining anything.
Car runs absolutely awesome. Smoothest its been ever!
I even gained between 10-20psi oil pressure by switching to 10w-30.
Engine temps went up 7 degrees.

[DEFYANT]

I changed the oil in my DD today with 10w-30 and Slick 50 in the hopes of getting rid up a cold start rattle. (E-bay motor)
I also pulled the MAF element and sprayed it with brake cleaner, exercising no caution in avoiding the plastic. The plastic is 100% Impervious to the brake cleaner, dont worry about ruining anything.
Car runs absolutely awesome. Smoothest its been ever!
I even gained between 10-20psi oil pressure by switching to 10w-30.
Engine temps went up 7 degrees.


Temps went up because there is residue on the MAF element from the brake cleaner. :D

[sabtaj1]

:popcorn: This is fun I like this thread. I have 60,000 on the clock, maybe I should clean mine.

[Ryans PI]

My Vic has 157K miles and the MAF has bever been cleaned. I'm going to look into this next weekend. I've never done this before, so can someone post a step-by-step on this? I am not as mechanical as I'd like to be, but learning. Thanks.

[TKde0]

Buy T20 Security Torx bit.
Unscrew MAF sensor from MAF housing after disconnecting the wiring harness and remove MAF Sensor.
Spray with electronic contact cleaner.
After sensor is dry, put it back in.

Be careful not to touch the wires or drop the sensor. It is delicate.

[ctrlraven]

Yep just like TKde0 said. I spray mine for about 10 secs on each side then leave it out for 1-2 hours to fully dry before reinstalling it. Just make sure to connect the wiring harness back up. I forgot to that when I first cleaned my marauder's at 2am one morning and thought I really messed something up until someone said something about the connection be connected and I felt like a total noob lol.

[Drock96Marquis]

CRC MAF cleaner = CRC QD Contact Cleaner
Same product, different label. So if you can't find the "MAF" cleaner don't hesitate to use their contact cleaner to clean your MAF ;)




Ryan - John has a how-to in the BOK forum on CVN


The easiest way to clean it is to just unclip the airbox upper lid and tilt the whole thing up (disconnect MAF is needed if the harness holds it up), you can leave the 'zip-tube' connected. Just spray the MAF sensor elements through the hole in the sampling tube, let dry then clip the airbox lid back on. You only need to remove the MAF if it is VERY dirty, and you can't get it all off by spraying through the tube.
The tamper-proof torx screws are prone to snapping and even stripping out of the plastic MAF housing, so I advise to avoid removing them unless needed.

[Raudermaster]

Just like Derek stated, don't bother unscrewing the Torx bit, just grasp the whole MAF and spray it.

[TKde0]

There's a third sampling wire on the back side of the MAF sensor that you can't reach to clean without removing the sensor.

[Shora]

can someone post a step-by-step on this? I am not as mechanical as I'd like to be, but learning. Thanks.


You don't need to "take anything apart"...just pull off the airbox cover with the clips, and undo the clamp holding the intake tract using a 5/16" socket or a flat-blade screwdriver.

You don't need to spray the CRC cleaner onto the MAF 10-15 times...unless it's really obviously and grossly dirty. Just hit it a few times and let it air-dry, re-install, and you're good to go.

RF Overlord's way of cleaning the MAF is what I do.

It is very easy to do, gets you good access to both sides of the MAF Sensor, and it doesn't require you to use a torx bit (which is good for me since the screws on my MAF Sensor seem to have somekind of orange temper proof paint on them which might spook out my dealer into trying to deny me something under warranty).

[ledzilla]

I see the following items at Advance Auto:

CRC Chemicals Electric Parts Cleaner $4.88
CRC Chemicals QD Electronic Cleaner $4.94
CRC Chemicals Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner $6.44

Is there any difference in how well any of these will clean the MAFS?

[Local Boy]

I pay for the confidence of having the cleaner specific to the task...

CRC MAF Cleaner (no residue)...I've been using this one...Works great...

ALOHA

[Dragcity]

The Electrical Contact Cleaner will work, But I am with my Brudda'. Stick with the MAF cleaner. A can will last you at least a year.

[ledzilla]

Sounds good to me. Now I know where I'm going first thing after work today.

[Cobra25]

Good advice, I just did mine about a hour ago.I also used the CRC MAF Cleaner. I reset the computer and the car runs great.
I pay for the confidence of having the cleaner specific to the task...

CRC MAF Cleaner (no residue)...I've been using this one...Works great...

ALOHA

[Bradley G]

I have not done either car, the Marauder is turning 60K and the GMQ has 83K, but I do change the filter often 12-15K.
I have looked at the tiny little wires on the pick up, they look brand new.
Let me see if I have any heavy duty degreaser or acid I can trow at it!:D

[arejayesss]

Good reminder!! I still have my MAF cleaner and used it this week when I cleaned my CAI filter cone. Once again, smooth idle and runs like a champ!!

[1stMerc]

One other hint, if you clean and re oil your air filter, clean the maf again in about a day or two. Oil residue will get on it especially if you nail the throtle.

[Peace2Peep]

Man this is good stuff... Now see, This is why I visit this site! I love you guys, man!

[Blk Mamba]

I bought, and used the CRC MAF cleaner today, worked great, I just took the top of the air box off used the little tube included, and cleaned the **** out of it, and then let it set. Two points, 1) I also cleaned my K&N filter cartridge, and when it ran out into the snow it was red, is that the cleaner, or the dye from the filter? 2) My mech said it didn't matter that the negative battery terminal was disconnected it wouldn't change the parameters of the comp. Could you please explain this to me, I want every fuel saving, power producing advantage I can get.

[1stMerc]

I bought, and used the CRC MAF cleaner today, worked great, I just took the top of the air box off used the little tube included, and cleaned the **** out of it, and then let it set. Two points, 1) I also cleaned my K&N filter cartridge, and when it ran out into the snow it was red, is that the cleaner, or the dye from the filter? 2) My mech said it didn't matter that the negative battery terminal was disconnected it wouldn't change the parameters of the comp. Could you please explain this to me, I want every fuel saving, power producing advantage I can get.

What you were seeing is the oil that acts as a filtering agent.
For K&N filters you have to buy what's called a Recharge kit #99-5000 at any auto parts store that sells K&N. Comes with bottle of cleaner and can of reoiler. Tentatively on a stock tuned car disconnecting the neg. battery cable for 15-30 is supposed to allow the computer to re-learn the fuel trim with the clean maf. There is still a debate whether this is needed or not.

[Blk Mamba]

Thanks for the info, do I need this reoiler soon?

[1stMerc]

Thanks for the info, do I need this reoiler soon?

Depends on how much of it you removed from the filter, miles on it, and how dusty it is under the hood.
Just for your peace of mind and knowing when it was done last i would get the kit and do it proper.

http://images.autoanything.com/images//products/large/air_intake_systems/kn_cleaning_kit.jpg
Features

Stop your clogged air filter from putting the brakes on your engine's true power potential with the K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit
Your K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit uses a 2-step process to wash away filth and re-oil your hi-flow filter
Your choice of either the aerosol spray can or the squeeze bottle oil applicator
Aerosol K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit: Comes with a 12 oz. bottle of Air Filter Cleaner and a 6.5 oz. aerosol spray can of Filter Oil—fast and easy to apply
Squeezable K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit: Includes a 12 oz. bottle of Air Filter Cleaner and an 8 oz. squeezable tube of Filter Oil—pin-point application accuracy
Both K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit styles are good for around 7 thorough cleanings
1 K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit will last for approximately 350,000 miles of reliable service-that's enough for 43 trips around the Earth's equatorDescription

The K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit was created to ensure your K&N filter is performing at its best. While protecting and enhancing your engine's performance, the K&N air filter traps loads of dust, dirt and debris in its cotton-gauze filter medium.

Somewhere between 30,000 and 50,000 miles under normal driving conditions, it's time for a scrub with the K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit. After the filter has been swabbed, simply add the oil and you're ready to roll. And, you can choose either an aerosol spray can or a squeezable bottle to apply the oil.

The K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit will yield roughly 7 thorough cleanings or about 350,000 miles of top-performance filtration. Keep the clean air flowing and your engine going with the K&N Filter Cleaning Kit.


Note: you do not scrub filter. The cleaner does the work.

[Blk Mamba]

Thanks, again.

[ledzilla]

Ran the MAFS cleaner yesterday and replaced my fuel filter. My MM is running smoother now. Happy Day! I haven't gone WOT yet, to see if there's a noticeable power difference, considering the roads around here have been too slick and I lose traction under medium acceleration (on asphalt at any rate).

[Smokie]

Funny, I been around this place a long time and knew that cleaning the MAF is a good idea; however I never did. After nearly 6 years of ownership and almost 49,000 miles this thread caught my eye and I decided to clean my MAF.

Went down to the local auto parts store and purchased a can of CRC MAF cleaner, set my back $7.00. I removed the air cleaner and the flexible rubber intake tube, this gives you and open view front and back. Sprayed the MAF and also the both ends of electrical connector.

I had no idle problems and was unaware of any loss of power prior to cleaning. I was aware that my cranking time was longer than it once was and somewhere along the way I had lost 1-2 mpg mostly in city driving. After the cleaning I went for a test drive and waited for engine to get to operating temp. and tires warmed up. Roads today are bone dry and air temp is 78* hum. 88%.

First impressions are that throttle response is better; I also understand how worthless that statement can be. The placebo effect can be very tempting and I try my best to find objective ways to measure what is very difficult to measure. Something with my car that I feel is as objective as possible in this case is: at what speed the rear end breaks loose when I punch it. My criteria is always the same A/C off, O/D off, dry pavement, same road, same lane, same segment of road.

At 35 mph punch: tires broke loose. rear end fishtailed and within 2 seconds I regained traction and took off.
At 30 mph punch: tires broke loose. no fishtailing just very little forward progress after about 3-4 seconds tires catch and accelaration begans. The relevance of the prior statements is: my car could not break the rears free recently from 30-35 mph.

My tires don't squeal, you just hear a swishing sound and from there you go to smoke if you don't let up, all very quiet actually. Anyway all this writing is because I have nothing better to do.:D Conclusion: It was worth the $7.00

PS: If the gas mileage and long crank time improves I will report back.

[Blk Mamba]

^^^^^^^^^^^^What He Said^^^^^^^^^^^ Temp mid 30's, and 62,xxx miles. Also the long crank time has improved. I'll see if fuel mileage increases, but power certainly has.

[Zim Hosein]

Sorry to "derail" the conversation thus far :o , but does anyone know what the recommended cleaning schedule is for the MAF sensor? My MM is still under the "extended warranty" period and I don't want to void it. :confused:

Thanks in advance everyone! :beer:

[fastblackmerc]

Sorry to "derail" the conversation thus far :o , but does anyone know what the recommended cleaning schedule is for the MAF sensor? My MM is still under the "extended warranty" period and I don't want to void it. :confused:

Thanks in advance everyone! :beer:

No schedule and cleaning it won't affect the warranty.

[mercury_1988]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gd640ImE9Ec

Is this the right way ? except for using the carb cleaner spray :) .

[offroadkarter]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gd640ImE9Ec

Is this the right way ? except for using the carb cleaner spray :) .


you do not use carb cleaner on a MAF, theirs a MAF cleaner you use... otherwise yeah thats pretty much it

[Marauderjack]

When I read this thread I cleaned mine again for the 3rd or 4th time in 208K miles.....also cleaned the throttle body!!!:beer:

I saw no difference for the 3rd or 4th time and I've run a K & N filter from the beginning...maybe I don't use too much oil or I'm just lucky!!:cool:

[Zim Hosein]

No schedule and cleaning it won't affect the warranty.

:coolman:

Cheers Fast Black Merc! :beer:

[mercury_1988]

you do not use carb cleaner on a MAF, theirs a MAF cleaner you use... otherwise yeah thats pretty much it

Thank you :) and happy thanksgiving to you all :) .