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magindat
05-16-2007, 06:57 AM
Ok, so I've hated MTX for many years, but in this case I am very impressed.

My weekend install for a fellow member included the MTX Thunderlink 10" powered subwoofer. This thing says 300 watts on the box. Yeah, right... maybe when lightning strikes! It's actually rated at 100W RMS. I'd put it at a good 85W in my opinion. It is relatively small. It has a 10" woofer and a 10" passive radiator.

I was skeptical. A passive radiator design is usually not so good in a car. There's really no room to disperse the passive radiator's energy before it mixes with the woofer's opposite energy. Well, in this install we found a way around that!

Fortunately, this unit comes with the hardware for many mounting possibilities. The radiator is on the exact opposite side of the enclosure as the woofer. One of the suggested mountings is a stand-off type mount restricting the output of the radiator. Very good, MTX.

For the MM, we flipped the script. I used those stand-off mounts and extended them about 2" and flipped 'em over. I then hung the unit from the rear deck, much like the factory sub, so that the woofer blew through the stock hole. This hanging mount put the radiator about 2.5" above the shelf. Perfect! This allows most of the woofer's energy to go into the cab while the radiator's energy is dispersed in the trunk!

The unit is rated at 20 amp draw. The factory amp circuit is 25 amps, so I used the factory power and ground. Another feather in the cap of this unit is the RCA sensing turn on. No remote turn on wire is needed. This is good since when using the factory power, I have experienced a back feed through the remote which never lets a standard amp turn off!

This unit also has a remote control for crossover frequency, phase, and gain. It's kinda gaudy, so I didn't mount it up front, but I DID mount it in the trunk since the install made access to the settings on the unit inaccessible.

As for listening, well it's no boomer! It did, however nicely fill out the bottom end. I was also VERY IMPRESSED with the low frequency response. One passage of a test song dropped down through 15hz and the box played it! Good and solid, but not by any means loud.

For the adult listener this is a great unit. The install allowed space to keep the spare. A bass-head would be p!ssed with the minimal output. This is definately a worth-while upgrade to the stock woofer. Furthermore, this unit CAN be used with the factory radio with a little wiring redo at the factory sub plug!

I'd say that it's worth it's money in sound quality. Do NOT expect high output, but the out put IS stronger than factory!

Pops
05-16-2007, 07:09 AM
Thanks for the review Rich. Your observations are very close to ours. We like the fact that it took up very little space and does not have a huge power draw. MTX is a company yhat has come along ways over the years and the products that they make improve every year. Its to bad that everyone puts peak power ratings on the products as they are misleading. The average adult would find this to be a good upgrade and it will work with the factory system.

Red Ryder
05-28-2007, 06:23 PM
Do you have any pics from the install ? I've been trying to decide the best setup for my car. How many modifications did you have to make to attach it to the back deck ?

Thanks for your help......too bad your on the other side of the state.

magindat
12-27-2007, 05:35 AM
I am hesitant to help because I feel there is no way to achieve satisfactory results while using the stock sub as well as an aftermarket sub.

Pops
12-27-2007, 12:00 PM
Rich is correct with his response. You never use two different subs as they cancel one another out. Use only the Mtx sub and get rid of the factory one.

magindat
12-28-2007, 06:19 AM
OK. Get out your multi-meter.

I am going on foggy recollection, here. This is the pigtail that connects to the factory amp. Cut off the MOLEX that actually plugs to the amp.

I believe:
The two reds are ground. Connect BOTH to Thunderlink -
The two yellows are hot. Connect both to Thunderlink +
White should show 5v+ (against ground) when the radio is on and nothing when the radio is off. This is not used. Cap it safely.
Green and black are BALANCED signal. Splice them into an RCA pigtail (cut the end off an RCA cable)
Use an RCA splitter (1xF 2xM) to attach to Thunderlink. Leave this connection unprotected for now.

TEST ALL THESE TO BE SURE!!!!! It's easiest to test while the MOLEX is still attached cuz the leads fit right in the holes on the plug.

Play the system. If there seems to be a 'gap' in frequency response where it seems the 6x8's leave off then later the sub pics up, it is likely that the RCA is out of phase. Simply reverse the green/black-RCA connection wiring and try again. The gap should go away. This may take some back and forth with different music.

If you find my wiring schematic to be wrong, please correct it on this thread so we have a reference. Again, I'm going by memory which isn't always perfect!

This factory circuit is 25 amps. Fuse #1 under-hood by the battery. You DO NOT NEED a +12V trigger to turn on Thunderlink. It senses voltage in the RCA for turn on. Therefore, the factory harness is sufficient and no other wires need be run through the car.